CONTINUOUSWAVE

Spent my Sunday enjoying the Barnegat Bay on my 2005 170 Montauk. After returning, and thorough washing, I later noticed the bilge was filled with water. I had the bilge switch in the center position (automatic) at the time. I moved the switch to the top position (manual), still the pump wasn't operating. At that point I pumped out the water in the bilge, and adjacent compartment with a external pump. Presently the boat is on its trailer, and I assume I need a pump or float.

I would appreciate input on testing for faulty pump vs faulty float, as well as sourcing replacement options. Both existing components seem to be original Rule Industries items.

Boston Whaler parts numbers are:
Pump: 1480094, (cross references to Rule Industries 1100 GPH 27DMQ). There are a lot off brand, identical looking pumps out there with 1100 GPH.

Float: 0989335, haven't found much information on this part number. This may be the old mercury filled model, likely now obsolete

Assistance and input is appreciated. Thanks.

[Moved to SMALL BOAT ELECTRICAL FOR DISCUSSION OF HOW TO DIAGNOSE ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT INTERRUPTIONS.]

[The remedy to this electrical problem] is not a whaler parts thing,

I would check the wiring connections at the pump and the float switch.

Then again, given the age, I would just replace the pump and install a seperate float. All in ones require both components to be replaced when one fails. Stupid.

Go for a large pump. 1100-2000 gallons/min. (Note, larger pump, larger diameter hose-)

E.G. https://www.wholesalemarine.com/rule-non-automatic-1100-gph-bilge-pump/

If you don't believe me, get a 5 gallon pail and fill the boat with 50 gallons of water. Turn on the bilge and check your watch. It takes more than 5 minutes. if you are in breaking waves, the pump will not stay caught up (been there).

Select a float switch that has a surround.

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/rule-a-matic-plus-automatic-bilge-pump-float-switch/

While you are at it replace the bilge hose with smooth interior walled hose. The cheap black ribbed hose restricts volume.

Use heat shrink butt connectors and liquid electrical tape.

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/ancor-marine-adhesive-lined-heat-shrink-butt-connectors-38080.html

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/starbrite-liquid-electrical-tape.html

Thanks for the information Phil. You're always a lot of help.

Generally a branch circuit that powers a pump will have current-protection in the form of a FUSE or a CIRCUIT BREAKER.

If an electrical device that is on its own branch circuit stops working, the first place to look is at the over-current protection device.

If the fuse is good, measure the voltage at the switch that controls the pump.

If the voltage is good there, measure at the float switch output. This will verify the float switch works properly.

If the voltage is good there, measure at the pump.

A general procedure to diagnosis interruption in the flow of electrical current is to start at the source, then work towards the load, checking at each element of the circuit in the path, such as fuses, circuit breakers, connectors, connections, switches, splices, cables, etc.

Check the negative branch of the circuit as well as the positive. A circuit interruption in either branch will cause the pump to not run.

If all circuits check out, then the pump may be defective.

Thanks again and will do.

The RULE-brand centrifugal pumps are still made.

The older separate electrical float switches used to contain mercury, but similar models without such a hazardous material inside are still being produced.

For advice on the orientation of a float switch to control an electrical pump to lift waster out of a sump, read my article on that topic at:


https://continuouswave.com/whaler/refer ... ePump.html

The article also illustrates the typical electrical circuit wiring to control a pump motor; these diagrams should be useful in diagnosis of any circuit faults.