CONTINUOUSWAVE

Hello all,
I have lurked here for quite awhile and gathered huge amounts of research and learning from this site. Especially useful for me is the information on this site about E-TEC first generation engines and NMEA-2000 with ICON EST controls and gauges, and using NMEA-2000 engine data on the Humminbird, which I am planning to incorporate into the new boat build. I am a 27-year IT-Engineer by trade, and wanted to get another set of eyes on my wiring diagram I plan for my new boat, when I order it.

I am trying to eliminate noise sources to the electronics where possible, incorporating the information gathered from this site.

Can you all take a look at this attached PDF diagram and give me your comments and suggestions, or show me where I might be going wrong?

I would like to feel confident in my plan when I go to the dealer and have them wire it up from this diagram.

Thanks in advance,
Boat_Fun_123

The only circuit in your block diagram that alarms me is the provision for a switch to disconnect the HOUSE battery from the AUXILIARY CHARGING OUTPUT of the engine. I have my doubts that the E-TEC engine will be happy to go along with a sudden disconnect of the house battery from its charging circuit while the engine is operating.

In the E-TEC the alternator rectifiers and voltage regulators are encapsulated in the un-repairable assembly of the Engine Management Module (EMM), so if these relatively low-cost rectifiers or SCR components are damaged and fail, the remedy is a very expensive replacement of the the EMM assembly, which could easily cost more than $1,500.

On that basis I would not want to be the guy who throws the switch in the proposed circuit to disconnect the house battery from the engine charing output, as it could be a very expensive learning experience.

My understanding of all alternators which provide charging current to attached batteries is that a sudden disconnection of the battery while the alternator is pushing large electrical current into that battery usually results in damage to the alternator.

Instead of the method shown in the block diagram to suppress electrical noise to the 12-Volt House battery, if there is concern for such noise a suitable noise filter should be installed between the charging current source (the engine) and the battery. And more electrical power line noise filters could be installed in the power distribution wiring if needed.

I will also offer the observation that I have been running all my boat electronics from an isolated battery receiving charging current from my E-TEC, and I have not noticed any particular noise or interference to the electronics from the alternator noise coming from the E-TEC. Also, a fully-charged large-capacity house battery makes a very effective noise filter all by itself.

A suitable filter for the alternator circuit may be the NEWMAR Model 150-A. This filter is housed in a metal case and can handle 150-Amperes, which is far more than the 25-Amperes likely to occur in the charging circuit. The Model 150-A only filters the positive circuit. Newmar also has smaller current rating filters like the Model PC-25; it filters both the positive and negative circuit. One or both of these filters may be a good solution to removing alternator noise from the house 12-Volt power. See page 42 of the PDF from

http://www.newmarpower.com/Catalogs_PDF ... g_2014.pdf

One vendor lists the the NEWMAR Model 150-A POWER CONDITIONER for $137. (Link to vendor)
The PC-25 is also available from that same vendor for $79. (Link to vendor)

If you are ordering new gear, the HUMMINBIRD ONYX line of chart plotters and echosounders should be NMEA-2000 compliant, and a gateway to connect them to NMEA-2000 won't be necessary. Some of the less-expensive or legacy Humminbird chart plotters and sounders will require the gateway. You might want to factor the gateway cost of about $200 into the decision for which model chart plotter and sounder you will buy.

Thank You, Jim. I was hoping you'd chime in. I will remove the switch, as suggested, and just wait and see if there is any concern at all.

Scott

I have updated the original PDF circuit drawing and posted it in the original first post. Thanks Jim, for having a look and giving me all the feedback.
Scott

On further study, I will also offer a second recommendation:

The proposed design involves five 12-Volt storage batteries and proposes to charge them all, possibly simultaneously, from a single outboard engine. The charging of five batteries simultaneously by any single charging source is quite a tall task and a burden for any charger.

I am not familiar with the TROLLBRIDGE 36, but I suspect it will try to wait for the primary battery to reach full charge before it brings any of the other three connected batteries in parallel. That may help prevent a huge load from being placed on the alternator.

I recommend you consult with YANDINA (the maker of the TROLLBRIDGE 36) to get advice on how it will work, and also consult with EVINRUDE about how the E-TEC charger is going to like seeing such a load.

My feeling about the E-TEC is, like any electronic device trying to push power into a load, it will be taxed by a load of four batteries on one branch of its charger output and a fifth on the other branch. This will be especially true if those three batteries connected by the TROLLBRIDGE are for an electric trolling motor, and the batteries are depleted of their charge by running the trolling motor until the batteries are deeply discharged.

The E-TEC has good charging capacity, but if five batteries that are all, say, 40-Ampere-hour batteries are connected at once, that is a load of a 200-Ampere-hour battery. I suspect the E-TEC was never designed for that much battery load.

Thanks, Jim. I will contact Yandina and confirm with them the concerns you have raised.

For those interested, attached is a PDF of the TrollBridge36.

Thanks,
Scott

The response from Ann-Marie Foster at yandina.com, after she reviewed the threads here:
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Scott,

Looks fine to me. I'm not sure of the internal structure of the "isolated" outputs of the Evinrude. If they are independent you could consider a Combiner between the two 12 volt outputs. That way unused capacity on one output will be available to the other.

Regards,

Ann-Marie Foster,
tech@yandina.com
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Thanks, Ann-Marie and Jim.