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  13' whaler hull ID and other quesions

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Author Topic:   13' whaler hull ID and other quesions
dangc78 posted 05-16-2001 10:28 PM ET (US)   Profile for dangc78   Send Email to dangc78  
I recently bought a 13' whaler from the second owner who told me that it was told was a '72 sport.
1. The boat has been painted, covering the hull numbers and the metal ID plate that usually come with boats is gone. Could someone tell me where i could locate the hull number if i were to remove a small portion of paint.
2. Also what year does it sound like. The original colors are white/tan inside. It has the separate engine compartment, which looks like a dual transom.
3. The s.s. rail and rub rail are becoming loose. I was thinking of drilling a hole, inserting a plastic plug and screwing into that, will this work? Has anyone been sucessfull with other methods.
Thanks for all your help.
Daniel G Cote
rwest posted 05-17-2001 12:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for rwest  Send Email to rwest     
The tan color was used from 1973-1993 according to the reference area of Classic Whaler. The numbers were usually painted on just inside the transom usually in the center below where you'd mount the engine bolts. A second place was the inside of the forward locker, usually on the aft bulkhead of the locker.


Chesapeake posted 05-17-2001 01:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Dangc78: There are better, more permanent ways to go at the rail problem. The one most often described on this sight (if you go back and read postings) is to drill out the hole, then insert a bent nail so as to drill out the foam leaving an inverted "T" shape in the foam. Next, inject epoxy into the upside down T shape of the hole. This will create a puck like structure that will not readily pull out when stressed. Then screw into the epoxy to secure the rail fitting.

As stated, there are more elegant and detailed descriptions of this process in previous threads. I am about to do the exact same thing on my Nauset.


Wagon1 posted 05-18-2001 09:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for Wagon1  Send Email to Wagon1     
Hi Dan! Doesn't sound like a 72. I have a 72 that has a blue interior. I think it was the last year for blue. Also, I understand it was the last year with the 15" transom. Does your boat have a "dip" in the middle of the transom? If it goes straight across, it is probably a 73 or later.
Tom W Clark posted 05-18-2001 10:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     

If you have the 15" transom and the straight across splash well instead of the wrap around splash well then your boat started out blue on the inside.

To date your hull check out the detailed list of hull changes in the reference section of this site:

dangc78 posted 06-06-2001 01:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for dangc78  Send Email to dangc78     
lhg posted 06-06-2001 01:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
The epoxy/bent nail process described by Chesapeake is not quite correct, and can result in a delaminated skin if done in an area of the hull where there is no wood backing pad.

BW advises against using "molly" type fasteners, which in reality this is, to connect into a Whaler skin with only foam behind it. Mounting something to Whaler skins only (just foam behind), is for light duty items only. Rails are not considered light duty.

The rails on most Whalers are either screwed directly into 1/2" plywood or "Whalerboard" molded in under the skin at appropriate places, or through-hull bolted using an older compression plate that they had specially designed.

So, using the "bent nail" system Chesapeake is describing above, a larger hole must first be drilled through the stripped hole in the wood backing plate, then the bent nail could chew out some foam behind the PLYWOOD, for additional grip. Then a new hole can be tapped in the epoxy. This way, the withdrawl load is transfered to the entire molded-in wood backer plate, and the skin will not "pop".

A note about the West System fiberglass repair manual, which seems to be a "Bible". I have read it quite carefully, and compared it to BW's own hull repair instructions. Not much similarity in method as far as I can see. So be careful repairing your Whaler using those guidelines. It seems to have not been written about Whaler's unique and proprietary type of hull construction.

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