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automatic fuel/oil mix
|Author||Topic: automatic fuel/oil mix|
posted 01-26-2002 12:48 AM ET (US)
Today while looking at a 13 with a 40 Johnson on it, I saw something I was not familiar with. The fuel tank has straight fuel, ten there is an oil tank. The engine draws from both to automatically make the proper mix. The only engine I have had before was a 1978 Johnson 85 and you did the mixing by hand.
Can someone please fill me in if there are good/bad points of these automatic fuels mixers?
posted 01-26-2002 09:37 AM ET (US)
Oil injection has been around for quite a while now. Most that have it, wouldn't be without it. The motor gets the proper ammount of oil at a given RPM and you don't have to fool with the mixing. You will also find that you use less oil. So long as you have a properly working warning system to let you know if the pump fails, Then they are great.
In 92 or 93 I was operating a 22 outrage with a 140 Johnson that didn't have the warning system. The oil pump quit and shortly thereafter so did the engine - permanently!.
Another con is that the "tank" takes up room in a small boat.
I think you can still buy the smaller engines without injection. I looked at a 90 merc recently and was told it wasn't available without injection.
posted 01-26-2002 10:59 AM ET (US)
Ok, so this is a dumb question but....
How do you know if the engine has the warning system and if it is working properly?
Meaning, is there a test switch or a way to test it?
posted 01-27-2002 07:28 PM ET (US)
when ever i turn the key it chirps.
posted 01-27-2002 07:32 PM ET (US)
I've noticed that when you turn the key on Mercury EFI engines they chirp a letter in Morse Code. The 200-EFI chirps "Dah-dit-dit" or "D". I recall hearing another Merc start up and it chirped a different letter.
Once you learn Morse Code (at age 12) you copy it automatically whenever you hear it.
posted 01-27-2002 08:57 PM ET (US)
I put a 50 2 stroke on my 35 y.o rehabbed ex- army COE Nauset last spring. It has oil injection which is the first I had been around. Major difference between that and my other Mercs from other boats. I ran it all spring and summer, up to the end of November and used very little oil, less than 2 gals. Most of my running was at lower RPMs but was out for over 25 trips with most up to 8 Hrs. Ran like a top and go great fuel milage, about 30% better than either engine I have had before.
posted 01-28-2002 02:34 PM ET (US)
I think JimH is pulling our leg, but at least with all V-6 oil injected Mercurys, the start up warning sounds are to indicate that they simply are functioning and that you can rely on them. The long sound is for the overheat signal, which activates a continuous horn sound. The second beep-beep indicates The oil injection warning system is working. The warning sound for an inoperable injection system is continuous intermintant beeps.
posted 01-30-2002 01:49 PM ET (US)
I have a '84 60hp johnson with an oil tank. the manual says it is supposed to make a beeping noise as a warning (don't know if it is morse code or not), but when I took the boat for a test run prior to buying it, the previous owner didn't perge the oil line of air and no oil went to the motor. the motor didn't sound right then shut off. I heard no beeping noise but my motor didn't sieze up. Fixed the problem, (after my father sucked the oil out of the tank into the line) and bought the boat the next day.
posted 01-30-2002 05:39 PM ET (US)
My '85 70Hp Johnson with VRO does in-fact chirp EVERY time you start the engine. Despite the fact that I've never used the VRO system that it is equipped with! The chirping alarm is in the throttle control box. If it doesn't chirp, and it was supposed to, then it's like the idiot lights on the dash of your car when they burn out. How do you know there's a problem if the self-test doesn't work?
posted 01-30-2002 06:18 PM ET (US)
The 1987 Evinrude VRO owners manual provides the following insight:
One "beep" every 20 seconds indicates oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank.
Rapid continuous beeping indicates no oil - do not operate motor at more than 1500 rpm.
Continuous beep means motor is overheating.
The suggested way to test the horn is to turn the ignition on and insert another key into the slot under the fast idle lever. The horn should sound. Alternatively, (or additionally) the horn can be checked by grounding the horn lead and the temperature switch wire to the engine block while the ingintion key is turned on.
I have been using a 1:100 oil/gas mix in my VRO motor just in case the oil injection fails. No problems, no plug fouling - just a bit smokier. In the coming season I'm going to get braver and run straight gas and remember to test the warning horn at each launching.
Also considering disabling the VRO. The service manual describes the procedure and calls for a special OMC part or two. I wonder if they are still available?
posted 01-30-2002 08:12 PM ET (US)
[Re MORSE CODE: No, I wasn't kidding. Those Merc warning tones send a perfect letter "D" in Morse Code. I can copy Morse in my head at about 35 WPM, so whenever I hear it is is like somebody just talking to me. It is especially hard for me to concentrate around the racks of police scanners at work when they all go off with their transmitter IDs in Morse Code--it's like ten people shouting into the room. Everybody else just thinks it is noise, while I am copying every letter they send!]
posted 01-31-2002 12:14 PM ET (US)
As far as disabling the VRO, one of the parts should be under your engine cover. The little rubber plug that covers up the oil inlet pipe (where the oil line and fuel hose connect to the engine)was supposed to go on a clip on plastic peg attached to one of the fuel lines under the engine cover so that you had it along in case you needed to disable the VRO some day. Worth a look... If it's there, that's one less part to buy.
posted 01-31-2002 12:34 PM ET (US)
if you disconnect the vro and plug it don`t forget to unplug the harness to the vro. otherwise the buzzer will be on continuously. the trouble with some of these warning systems is that by the time you have heard them the damage is allready done. i am a supporter of disconnecting the vro (omc) and running mixed gas via the fuel tank. that way you know for sure and do not have to rely on a bunch more moving parts, steve out. ps there is a kit for johnson/evinrude that you can purchase through omc that converts vro back to standard fuel pump. this is nice to know when you find out the price they want for a new vro unit, steve out.
posted 01-31-2002 12:39 PM ET (US)
Cool! I wondered what that funny looking clip was!
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