Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
|Author||Topic: Kicker clamping|
posted 06-20-2002 09:20 PM ET (US)
I have a 17' montauk and clamp a 9.9 honda to the transom using one of the rubber pads to protect the gel coat.
I don't like this setup, as the transom curves and I see a couple small cracks where the gelcoat is cracking (who? me worry).
I do like the ability to r&r the unit.
What are my options? Are the cracks going to lead to trouble down the road. Should I bite the bullet and permanently mount it?
posted 06-20-2002 09:37 PM ET (US)
Possibly it is being tightened down a bit to tight... If this is not the case then how about placing a piece of plywood between the screws and the hull...
posted 06-20-2002 10:15 PM ET (US)
I was thinking I may have been tightening it too much. the plywood is a good idea, however the transom, plus rubber won't allow it, the motor mt. is not that wide.
Just how tight should I be putting to it? I only hand tighten it, then use the toggles to really snug it down.
Maybe 1/8 turn less I suppose.
posted 06-20-2002 10:16 PM ET (US)
The manual for my Montauk says don't use the pads, but rather let the clamps bite into the gelcoat, as it won't hurt anything and is the only way to get a good grip. Lot's of other posts on this topic elsewhere in the forum.
posted 06-21-2002 12:31 AM ET (US)
Tighten it just tight enough so it won't fall off.
posted 06-21-2002 04:45 PM ET (US)
If it falls of you didn't tighten it enough!
;-)Sorry, couldn't resist.
posted 06-22-2002 01:21 AM ET (US)
I keep a safety chain from the kicker clipped to the stern eye. Saw a guy out duck-hunting last year on San Pablo Bay whose main engine had quit, and then lost his kicker overboard when it popped off the transom. Unbelievably, he managed to haul it in by the fuel line, and then restart it.
Ashamed to report he was actually in a Whaler. Still, like him, I'd rather be lucky than good.
posted 06-23-2002 11:21 PM ET (US)
I've been watching the stern for cracks and just hate that I caused the first to appear. I have two heavy ropes securing the ballast to the stern eye. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
BTW, is there no search function? It took me some time to find how to display more than 2 weeks of posts. I'm sure many questions have anwsers somewhere, but hopefully I won't bother too many with needless posts.
posted 06-24-2002 12:39 PM ET (US)
Install kicker with ss bolts thru the transom. Now you wont have to tighten the clamps so much and wont need a safety chain!
Id keep the rubber pads! Whaler also said foam cant absorb water.
posted 06-24-2002 07:45 PM ET (US)
never scared, I figure thet is what I will end up doing. However the holes will be drilled in an area with wood cleats, the ss bolts will have to be sealed.
What type of sealant is recommended?
posted 06-24-2002 08:09 PM ET (US)
Id first use a dowel and sandpaper to enlarge the transom holes a bit. Next coat the inside holes with epoxy. Use a pencil to redistribut the epoxy till it stops running. Redrill the holes, but make sure theres still a thin layer of epoxy. Now apply 5200 sealant all around the holes. This takes 2 days, but keeps moisture out of the transom!
posted 06-24-2002 10:05 PM ET (US)
thank you neverscared,I like your thinking.
|Tom W Clark||
posted 06-25-2002 12:06 AM ET (US)
I think NEVER SCARED has some good advice about using the auxiliary bolt holes but I have reservations about the “oversized hole with epoxy” approach. Don McIntyre used this same technique on his 21 Outrage as well but the problem is epoxy is not flexible to any great extent. Not like a polyurethane, polysulfide or silicone caulk is.
If you create a waterproof "sleeve" of epoxy that surrounds your mounting bolts, that's fine. But when you bolt your motor onto the transom, the transom will compress. This is both normal and desirable.
A Whaler's transom is made of plywood covered with a thin layer of fiberglass. It WILL compress. When the transom compresses the epoxy sleeve will fracture and there goes your water proofing.
It seems better to just use some 3M 4200 or 101 which will make the hole perfectly waterproof and remain flexible too. Actually, the more compression, the more waterproof the caulk will be.
Rubber pads work, but why use them? There is a natural reaction to doing anything to mar the finish on your beautiful Whaler, but like drilling holes in the transom for transducers and auxiliary mounting bolts for the kicker, they serve a purpose. The kicker covers any damage to the gelcoat just as a transducer covers its screw holes in the transom so who cares? Why take a chance?
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