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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Replacing the Bronze drain tube in the transom
|Author||Topic: Replacing the Bronze drain tube in the transom|
posted 05-14-2000 12:04 AM ET (US)
Is it a hard job to replace the bronze tube in the transom of a 13ft whaler? are there special tools needed..
posted 05-18-2000 10:52 PM ET (US)
Yes, there is a special tool. I don't know where to get it, but you may want to give the following dealer a call.
Twin Cities Marine
posted 05-19-2000 11:44 PM ET (US)
John, I replaced the bronze tube on my 16ft classic and it was a fairly straight forward procedure. I ordered a replacement from my local whaler dealer that has one end flaired and the other end straight. After removing the old corroded piece, I inserted the tube from inside and marked the tube 3/8" where it exited the transom. The important trick is to cut the un-flaired end at the angle of the transom. I then put 3M 5200 around the flaired end and re-inserted it back in from inside the boat leaving the 3/8" sticking out the transom. I cut a 2x4 block and wedged it against the flaired end on the inside to hold it in place. I then squeezed some 5200 into the transom around the tube in the rear. Then very, very carefully, using a ballpeen hammer, I lightly rounded over the edge on the other end. Just before it was completly rounded over, I added some more 3M 5200. The tube looks like a factory job. Take your time and it is a fairly easy process. Kurt
posted 05-22-2000 09:35 AM ET (US)
Is it necessary to remove the old tube material from inside of the hole? Why do you not use the good flared end on the outside of the transom?
posted 05-23-2000 12:56 AM ET (US)
I was pondering which end to put where, too.
If you put the pre-flared end on the outside, you might get a better seal, which is beneficial because this drain outlet is always below the waterline. The drawback to this approach is that the interior end has to be "finished" and the access will not be as good to work in the drain sump area as it would be on the transom rear.
Cosmetically, you bury the home-brew finished end under water if you do it as KCarlsen described; otherwise, you'd be looking at the unfinished end in the sump for the rest of your life.
posted 05-25-2000 01:27 PM ET (US)
The reason I put the preflared end inside is bacause that was the only side I could wedgw a piece of wood while flaring the other side. Remember, this tube is one continous piece. If you put the pre-flared end on the out side, how will you hold it when flaring the inside? Also, when my installation was complete, it is imposable to tell which end was flared first. I will take some digital pictures and send them to Jim for posting.
posted 07-18-2000 05:57 AM ET (US)
Just to add to Kurt's installation instructions (which are correct by the way all manufactures that use the thin wall BRASS not bronze tubes insert from the inside and flare from the outside)
A trailer ball is an easy way to get the flare started then finish with a ballpeen.
posted 07-18-2000 06:03 AM ET (US)
I also might suggest NOT using 3M's 5200 if you think the tube will need to be replaced again --- if it does you stand a very good chance of taking fiberglass and gelcoat right off your transom removing the old tube --- better to use BoatLife or 4200F
posted 07-18-2000 08:42 AM ET (US)
Hey guys I made the perfect tool for flaring the end of the drain tubes for about $2.00 I had a 1-1/4" s.s round ball w/ a 1/2" hole in it (im not sure where it came from it was just one of those things I kept in the garage thinking id need it one day) then I simply bought a 3/8" nut & bolt W/ a large washer placed washer on bolt then inserted into drain tube w/ unflared end on the inside slid on s.s. ball then I slowly tightened down and the result was as good as factory finish.
posted 07-18-2000 06:33 PM ET (US)
BW makes a tool for this. I replaced all of my tubes and it was very easy. You can get the tool for about 25 dollars from your local whaler dealer. I used 5200 on mine. If you have something that is sealed with 5200 it is difficult to remove. I use it to seal the top of the teak trim for the doors on my center console. Every three years when I need to re-do the teak I take a hot knife and slide it behind the teak. It comes right off with ease. Back to the tubes, If you were going to pay your dealerto do the job , it will be about 85$, I just prefer to do the job myself and make sure it is done right.
posted 01-31-2002 03:05 PM ET (US)
How & when do you know to replace this?
posted 01-31-2002 05:08 PM ET (US)
Hope this helps.
posted 01-31-2002 06:42 PM ET (US)
I saw a reference to Boat Life in a previous post. What are the advantages/disadvantages to using this over 4200 or 5200? And does it make a solid and waterproof repair? I'll be replacing the sump drain on my Katama this spring. thanks
posted 01-31-2002 07:11 PM ET (US)
I just got off the phone today with killinger marine the tube is $11.00 and the tool is $35.00 they said it takes about 10 minutes to do. The plastic version isn't made for the old sakonnet. I would have to get one from another boat parts store but it wouldn't be a perfect fit.
posted 02-01-2002 10:24 AM ET (US)
Thanks. My hull is a '65 16'7", that I've been repairing. The tube I need to replace is the one from the sump through the lower transom. It seems like the rear part is shot (I guess the hull has absorbed water through here). Does this tube go all the way through, how do you remove it? Wouldn't PVC be better than copper? Can I get everything I need @ West Marine? If so, I'll do this this weekend.
Do you guys usually leave the plug open, or run a bilge pump?
Excuse my ignorance, but this is my 1st boat, and all info is appreciated.
posted 02-04-2002 02:04 PM ET (US)
Well, I did it this weekend. I removed the corroded copper tube (from the sump) and replaced it w/ PVC. Getting the original tube out was a BIATCH, but I ended up using a 1" wooden dowel to knock it through. Then inserted the PVC (12 3/4" long? ) and sealed w/ 5200.
posted 02-04-2002 08:33 PM ET (US)
Can you tell me what the West Marine Number for the thru hull plastic tube was? Did you have to order it or did they stock it? Why did you think the PVC was better than bronze(copper)? I want to learn as much as possible before I tackle this project on my 84 Montauk
posted 02-05-2002 01:55 PM ET (US)
West Marine...nada. They did have the 3" brass inserts, if you're interested though. I guess you could attach them to the ends of the PVC for looks.
Home Depot. 1" pvc: Cost .92 cents! (for a full length) I just cut it to fit. I also bought o-rings (23cents each), but didn't use them. Oh yeah, 2 bucks for a wooden dowel ( to knock out the old)
posted 02-06-2002 07:33 PM ET (US)
Thanks for your help. It sounds like you didn't bother to "bell" or "flare" the end of the plastic tube -- just cut it off a little long, maybe 1/4 inch or so on each end, enough to run a bead of sealant around the junction of the gelcoat and tube? Is that right?
This may be a dumb question -- but do you do choose to use the 3" brass inserts, do you fasten them to each end of the plastic tube?
posted 02-06-2002 07:36 PM ET (US)
that's--"if you do choose to use the 3" brass inserts....?"
posted 02-07-2002 10:57 AM ET (US)
No, I didn't. I cut it like you said (maybe only an 1/8" longer) the tube fit snug, then ran a good bead of 5200 to secure and seal it. I made sure there a decent amount around each end. I'm sure if I wanted to add the brass insert for looks, I could. I just did it last weekend, and haven't had time to work/think about it since. (it's dark, by the time I'm home from work, so it's weekend work only (if the weather cooperates)
posted 01-26-2004 08:22 AM ET (US)
In my 1974 19' Outrage there is a 1-inch diameter drain tube that runs six inches from the live bait well out through the back of the boat. From outside of the boat, the bronze drain tube is in good condition, but it only runs 3 inches into the boat. I cannot put a plug in the other end (in the bait well) because there is no bronze tube (when I stick my finger in that opening, I feel foam).
I assume that I should take the existing 3" section out and replace it with a section that will go the full 6 inches. Sue at Twin Cities Marine can send me Whaler's 15" length for $11.00.
But how do I remove the 3-inch section?
Also, regarding the 3M 5200 (or 4200), do I coat the outside of the new drain tube with it and then slide it into place? Is it going to bond to that foam I am feeling?
posted 01-26-2004 10:53 AM ET (US)
Grab the rolled over lip at the transom with a pair of pliers and pull it out. If necessary, whack it with a screwdriver in a couple of spots around the perimiter to collapse it.
posted 01-27-2004 11:18 PM ET (US)
When I replaced all of the drain tubes on my 1985 Outrage Cuddy 25', I used the BW pvc tubes everywhere except for the tube through the transom. The one through the transom shows so I used a flange ended threaded bronze through-hull. Buy one over lenght and cut it about
1/4" long. Install it with the nut to the inside of the transom after liberally coating the transom hole and the threads with your sealant of choice. You may have to enlarge the transom hole first. A coat of epoxy on the inside before installation is a good idea. A threaded bronze through-hull will never have to be replaced. You sacrifice a small amount of drain size but I havn't found it to be a problem. I think alot of Whalers take on water when the thin brass tubes corrode without the owners noticing it. Since I was redoing the entire bottom I made the decision to replace with pvc rather than worry whether I made the proper water tite seal against the o-ring. The threaded through-hull looks substantial and proper. My 2 cents.
posted 09-19-2005 11:19 AM ET (US)
Is there a consensus on the brass tubes? I will be using brass with the O rings. Should I use some 4200 on the ends when I seal it up? Could someone describe the ballpeen hammer procedure in a bit of detail. McCaster Carr is great and they are shipping the tube in one day!
Thanks for any help.
posted 09-19-2005 05:13 PM ET (US)
I had the sump tube as well as the anchor locker tube replaced a few years ago on my Outrage 18. I think it was about $90.00. Both ends were flaired with the O ring and it looks factory done. Considering the construction of a Boston Whaler and that the tubes keep water out I think it was money well spent.
posted 09-19-2005 06:03 PM ET (US)
Agreed but from extensive searching on this website, I have noticed that some had to redo their tubes after the shop did it. Might be best to do the job oneself to ensure it is done properly. The problem is there seems to be several ways to do it correctly, and I am in the process of elimination for making the flange in the pipe.
I will be getting enough tubing for one screw up and that's it!
posted 09-22-2005 01:46 AM ET (US)
Well... got me a new drain... a little messy with the 4200 but I think she's good for another 35 years! half the fun is doing this kind of work yourself. My flange was the ball pein hand job..but no slices or cracks. Even the low skilled homeboy like me can handle that job. Go get 'em guys. woohoo
Can't wait to get her wet again! Dang I like whalers!
posted 09-22-2005 06:41 PM ET (US)
When replacing defective drain tubes, it would seem to me that the abiding, and paramont, concern should be to keep water from intruding into the wood in the transom. Although the copper tubing used in the drains may be "original", replacing the tubes with copper is somewhat difficult and it seems to me to make little sense not to use PVC tubing and 3M 4200 to fashion an effective and long lastilng replacment for the old copper drain tubes after they have failed. There is little cosmetic effect, and the structural integrity of the transom will be protected with the PVC/4200 replacement .
posted 09-22-2005 07:24 PM ET (US)
You may well be correct, but the tubing I have is nice and thick and I use very generous amounts of 4200 on the exterior up into the holes on each side about 1 inch. It's solid and should accept the drain plug better than the old tube. I'll post my results from her maiden voyage with the new tube.
posted 09-22-2005 08:14 PM ET (US)
My comments were not directed at you. Apparently, your repairs were successful and were done with a knowledge of metal working beyond that of most of us civilians. I commend you. My experiences with my old Eastport and my 1989 Outrage, combined with my known lack of skills, lead me to simple but workable solutions.
posted 09-23-2005 11:39 AM ET (US)
You might change your mind about that if you saw my boat:-)
You know about that hindsight being 20/20 and all... From all my searching on the topic this is another one of those areas where there are many different ways to skin a cat, and one may not be any more correct than the other.. Although I have learned huge amounts from owning a boat for 1.5 years I am still a total novice...but learning
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