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Author Topic:   Refinishing Teak Center Console
Tony posted 12-28-2000 09:43 PM ET (US)   Profile for Tony   Send Email to Tony  
Just bought 1970 Outrage (21'). It has a teak center console, teak bench & some teak flooring and ancho hatch cover. Is there any problem with just using a good teak oil to refinish or is varnish better. It appears that oil is the only thing that has ever been used on the wood.
dfmcintyre posted 12-29-2000 08:30 AM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
Tony -

From what I recall, the teak center console was varnished, the bench _may_have_been_ but the flooring and locker hatch were just oiled. The assumption back then (and now) was/is to oil where there could be heavy foot traffic. The teak flooring you mentioned, is that up forward, and kind of a 3 x 4.5 "V" shaped slatted platform?

Is this the console that has the white caulking in the seams of the console, along with a fabric windscreen, and ribbed sides? If so, thats a _very_ real classic. We'd probably like to see photos of her.

Best - Don ('73 21' Outrage owner)

Outraged posted 12-29-2000 09:54 AM ET (US)     Profile for Outraged  Send Email to Outraged     
Tony, I would stick with the teak oil vs varnish. I`ve been told teak is a wood that has oil in it and the oil is always working its way to the outside of the wood. If the wood is varnished it seals the oil in and eventually it gets under the varnish causing it to bubble in spots and flake off, leaving bare spots on the wood, which eventually will darken from the weather. I used a product called "Sikkens" on my teak.You may want to look into this product also.
Tony posted 12-29-2000 02:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tony  Send Email to Tony     
Thanks for the response. The center console does have the while caulk in the seams. It also has the fabric windscreen and the ribbed sides. The "V" shaped forward platform is also still there. I recently spoke with the old gentleman, who bought the boat new in 1970, and he informed me that the center console has always been oiled. He still had some of the orignal papers and brochure.

I'd like to get a price on the canvas Flying Top w/boot and windshield origally supplied by the Wm. J. Mills & Company out of New York. Do you have any information whether the company still exists?

Let me know where to sent picture.

Thanks Again

whalernut posted 12-29-2000 02:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalernut  Send Email to whalernut     
Tony, they have a web site, just punch it up in a search engine. I bought a full mooring cover(73` `16 Currituck) from them this past summer, their still around and still making items for our classic Whalers. Regards-Jack Graner.
jimh posted 12-29-2000 03:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Tony's inquiry about Mills Canvas is quite surprising. Mills Canvas is one of the most mentioned topics on this website. There must be hundreds of references to it among the previous 6,000 posts in the FORUM alone.

There is also a 20-minute long audio interview with Jamie Mills, the fifth generation of Mills running the canvas business in this country. This is available under the RADIO section of the website.

Here are some clickable links:

This is the kind of information you get from posting inquiries in the FORUM. We strive for High-quality content.


dfmcintyre posted 12-30-2000 12:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfmcintyre  Send Email to dfmcintyre     
Tony -

If the console has only been oiled, keep it oiled, as you would have to strip off some of the oiled teak. Time consuming, but it's worth the effort. The one owner of that model that I saw must have varnished it in the past. Looked like a varnished deck off of one of the Chris Craft runabounts of days long gone. Since the 1969 Nauset came out prior to that hull, and the console was varnished, along with the seat, having them varnished would not be too far out.

The rumor about the teak oil rising up and bubbling the varnish is just that... rumor. I've personally varnished five different Whalers teak trim and have _never_ experienced that problem. The guy I picked up varnishing from has been doing it for _decades_, prior to me. He usually applied it to either relatively new wood, or well sanded wood. It is important to apply two or three diluted varnished coats before "build up", as he calls it.

The downside of varnish.... it _must_ be maintained. It will, like Outraged mentioned, wear or crack and allow water to penetrate. It will turn the area black, and is a minor pain to sand down the area, and build up the coats again. I make it a winter project, of sanding down my doors, seatback and rear hatches.

Also keep in mind, that if you use Sikkens, it will also allow water to penetrate, if not kept up. The nice aspect of the Sikkens product, is you don't have to be as carefull about prep and it's more tolerant to a quick application.

Best - Don

Paint Legend posted 01-02-2001 07:57 PM ET (US)     Profile for Paint Legend  Send Email to Paint Legend     
Regarding varnish, some varnishes are made to work on oily woods like teak. Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss is one that I have used with good success. Also Sikkens makes a variety of products, Cetol is the most recognized and works well. I believe this is the product that the other forum members are speaking of. There are different versions of Cetol to make things even more confusing. As with any clear finish (oil or varnish) continual maintenance is the key, a little work each year will result in less trouble and expense of time in the future. I was just at Boat U.S. looking at all the teak cleaners, oils, and coatings. I was very amazed at all the products and when I asked for advice for a cleaner and a oil, the sales person was no help at all!

Good luck!

whalernut posted 01-02-2001 08:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for whalernut  Send Email to whalernut     
Tom, I was at a West Marine several times this past summer and they hire sales people like McDonalds hire employees, as long as they have a body that shows up for work, the company is happy-it gets a little frustrating at times. Regards-Jack Graner.
JC Scott posted 01-04-2001 05:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for JC Scott  Send Email to JC Scott     
Does anyone know the correct (factory original) color stain to use on mohagony parts (e.g. rod holders) on Whalers that have both mohagony and teak? Are the colors supposed to match?
lhg posted 01-08-2001 01:52 AM ET (US)     Profile for lhg    
Tony, you lucky dog! I love that boat! You got one of the true Classic Whalers, the first Outrage and the original Outrage 21 with the ribbed sides and teak console. Those boats in good condition are very hard to find. I'll bet anything that the boat is a 1971 model, it's first year, probably built late 1970 as a 1971 model. Your owner was correct, as he should be. That particular console was oiled teak. As a matter of fact this was the very first boat Whaler ever built incorporating teak. The Mills Flying top system for the boat was in light tan, not the blue which whaler changed to in 1978. I'd order the tan if it were mine. The optional teak deck you have was for overnighting under the canvas. There was a simple rule at Whaler in those days: mahogany was ALWAYS varnished (no stain being added), and teak was ALWAYS oiled.

Good luck with your project an let us see some pictures.

Paintlegend: For teak cleaning and oiling products, consider Amazon's Products, which I think are the best. Their one step cleaner is great, and their Blend 55 premium teak oil
looks great. Best prices are in Shoreway Marine's catalog. There is much previous discussion buried in this Forum on teak maintenance procedures.

james cosby posted 01-11-2001 06:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for james cosby  Send Email to james cosby     
Toni, I too own a '71 21' Outrage with the ribbed sides similar to yours. Mine has been in my family since it was new. When I recently inherited the boat, the teak was in bad shape but serviceable. All the teak trim on my boat is unfinished from the factory with the calk between the teak. When I began to restore the teak, I found the best method is to use commercial teak claner, brightner and teak oil to bring back the original coloring. However, I noticed that when the teak oil is applied and not wiped off soon after application, it makes the caulking loosen in places. This only happened in one place and lu8ckily the caulk returned to its place after drying, but I would reccomend wiping it off soon after application. It took about 3 seperate treatments to restore the teak on my Whaler, but the results were well worth the effort. Also, the original top on my Whaler is tan in color with the hemp rope tie-downs as the other responder described.
Hope this will help you. Jim Cosby

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