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Author Topic:   Help Please - Rewiring and installing new fuse block
Chesapeake posted 05-30-2001 05:02 PM ET (US)   Profile for Chesapeake   Send Email to Chesapeake  
Am in the process of installing a new fuseblock (Blue Sea 5015) en route to rewiring the entire boat.

Problem is... I just don't know where to start. Is there a good source to learn how to re-wire and connect safely and appropriately??

The folks at Blue Sea suggested that I need a primary fuse or circuit protector between the battery and the fuse block. Why and what should be used.

The wiring of the fuse block is straightforward. The connection to the switches is another story. The contour swtiches have three prongs on the back: one for + in; one for + out to radio or whatever; and one for ground. I understand the first two, but not the third...

They said to run the negative as a ground to yet another terminal, separate from the fuseblock and separate from this other main fuse. What????

Sure would appreciate any help. I am an electrical idiot...


triblet posted 05-30-2001 07:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
The primary fuse is in case of a short
BEFORE the fuse block. It should be close
to the battery.

The negative is for the pilot light in the switch. Run it to a terminal block (since
you have a bunch of them) and run that to
the negative lead of the battery. No reason
you couldn't run it to the negative bar on
the 5015. If the switch works, but the
pilot light is always on, you got the two
+ connections backwards.

Your running light switch should have more
than two prongs. It should be a DPDT
(double pole double throw) center off, with
an additional connection for the pilot light ground. Note: West Marine doesn't carry
them but they are in the switch maker
(Cole-Hershee (sp?)) catalog and West can get

Mount the fuse block where you can get at it
to change fuses and do wiring. I have mine
just inside the console door on the front
of the console (same block).

Use Ancor marine grade wire, no smaller than
16 ga, and the Ancor crimp on connectors
with built-in heat shrink. Don't put any
electrical component on a boat that came from
the HW store or the auto parts store. They
won't hold up in the wet. Ancor has some
slick boat cable, that's kinda like real
flexible Romex. That's the way to go when
running a power and ground.

BTW, you can order most any label you want
for the 5015 for 50 cents (plus 50 cents
per order S/H) from Blue Seas website:

BTW2, the 5015 has slick spare fuse holders
in the lid.

BTW3. Those yellow levers pop the fuses out.


Chesapeake posted 05-31-2001 06:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     
Thank you Chuck!

BTW Why do you say a DP for the running lights? Flip up for bow light only and flip down for bow and stern light?

If so, do I just run a splice wire off of the bow light to the other circuit / pole?

Very much appreciated,


triblet posted 05-31-2001 09:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
Yep, flip up for running and down for anchor.
I gotta run and go do a slide show of my
photos for dive club, but I'll post the
circuit here when I get a chance.


triblet posted 06-01-2001 01:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
I don't have a way to post graphics here,
so I'll try to do it in words. The DPDT
has eight terminals:

A1, A2, A3. One half the DP part can connect
A2 to either A1 or A3.

B1, B2, B3. The other half can connect B2
to either B1 or B3.

P. Pilot Light +12 side.

G. Ground for the pilot light.

They will be laid out like:

A1 B1

A2 B2

A3 B3

P & G could be anywhere. On mine I think
the would be just below A3 and B3.

Wire fused +12 to A2 and B2.

Wire A1 to A3 to P to one side of the masthead light.

Run the other side of the masthead light to
battery minus side.

Wire B1 to one side of the bow light.

Run the other side of the bow light to the
battery minus side.

Run G to the battery minus side.

If you push the top of the switch both
lights and the pilot light should come on.
In the middle position, everything is off.
If you push the bottom of the switch, the
anchor light and the pilot light should
come on.

If the switch works backwards, move the B1
wire to B3.


Chesapeake posted 06-04-2001 01:22 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chesapeake  Send Email to Chesapeake     

Can't thank you enough.



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