Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
|Author||Topic: bottom paint|
posted 12-09-2001 03:41 PM ET (US)
as mentioned in earlier posts i am completly redoing an 84 montauk. i have striped the boat to bare hull and have it up side down epoxing/glassing bottom damage. i plan to paint the hull with high quality 2 part linear polyurethane paint. i also plan on appling good bottom paint and would like to do it before righting the hull. any sugestions on establishing the level of the waterline with the hull turned over? any help would be appreciated. mitchell
posted 12-10-2001 11:18 PM ET (US)
although I just sold my 1977 whaler, I applied black "act" paint made by interlux to the bottom. ref the desired paint line, I painted up to the sides of the boat, whereas most travel approx. 4-5 inches up the sides. I believe my idea gives the whaler a much nicer look while in the water. I'm located in maryland and the water's are pretty dirty, but the sides of the boat wipe clean very easy. In addition the boat stays in the water months at a time. just one opinion !! good luck
|Tom W Clark||
posted 12-13-2001 12:24 AM ET (US)
There are three ways to easily and accurately establish your water line, (only two of which will apply to your situation since the first of the three ways is to mark it while the boat is floating in the water). But first you have to determine a few things.
You need to know where the water line is at the bow and at the stern and you need to decide how far above the water you want the bottom paint or boot stripe to be (usually 1 to 3 inches).
Because your boat is already out of the water and turned over you are going to have to be clever in how you establish the bow and stern water marks. If you already have this information then just "connect the dots" as explained below. If you do not then perhaps a photograph of this boat when it was in the water will suffice. Or perhaps you could find a Montauk rigged similarly to how you are planning to rig yours and measure the point where the water meets the bow and stern. Someone here on the FORUM may be able to help you with this.
Once you have this figured out, then you need to level the hull on its supports so the bow mark and the stern mark are level and the hull is level side to side. Basically, the two fool proof ways of leveling are to use either a water level or a laser level.
A water level can be made or bought for not much money. It consists of a reservoir that holds water (sometimes colored for visibility) and a clear plastic tube or hose with a pluggable/unpluggable end. By allowing the tube to fill with water from the reservoir and unplugging the free end so the water can vent to atmospheric pressure, the water will seek its own level and you can drag the hose all the way around the hull and mark it with a pencil to establish a level line. It becomes a bit more difficult with an overturned hull marking in between the sponsons up on the relatively flat part of the bow.
A laser level is an even easier way to go. just set it up at the right height and mark directly off the laser line projected on the hull. If the laser is the pointing type, then you just keep moving it along the hull. The disadvantage of the laser is that you have to set up once for each side of the hull whereas the water level will work all the way around. Laser levels can be rented at most tool rental shops. Call around.
posted 12-13-2001 10:01 AM ET (US)
I used the water level method on my montauk that Tom recommeded-worked great. My boat was upright - good for marking the line not so good for painting. My boot stripe is about an inch above the water line in salt water. I don't know how helpful it would be but I can email pictures of my boat showing where my line is. (I looked at several montauks as well as pictures of them on this website and found that the boot stripe seems to vary from the top of the engine well drain tubes to about an inch below them.)
My montauk is an '89 with a 100HP evinrude, battery and oil in the stern and two 6.5gal tanks under the seat (soon to be two 12 gal tanks or a 24 pate-I hope).
posted 12-13-2001 11:19 AM ET (US)
The owner's manual from BW has some guidelines on where to paint the water line, which were posted on the forum several months ago. I have heard the BW will mail or fax you an owner's manual if you call them. I could measure mine this weekend, but it may not look right on your boat since mine is set up rather stern-heavy. I painted mine upright, which meant a lot of time on my back. I used a laser level to conect the dots on the hull that I marked in the water. The unit I used was a cheap ($20)laser level that had a diffuser that created a very thin line (instead of point). I set the level up on my tripod and simply adjusted the beam until the ends of the line were crossing the points marked on my hull. I worked around the boat unitl the lines met all the way around. I measured at 1' stations to ensure accuracy and symetry, and then taped the line with 1/2-inch fine-line autobody tape. Don't use paper masking tape since it will let the paint bleed underneath. Also, don't leave the plastic fine-line tape on for a long time because the glue will be hard to remove. I used the unpainted edge of the fine-line tape as a guide for a red tape stripe above it. It worked great and looks sharp. By the way, it took about 3 hours just to mark and tape the waterline, but the results were worth it. Also, the laser level works best in low light, so I did the work at dusk when there was enough light to see what I was doing, but dark enough to get a sharp line from the laser.
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