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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Steering Cable Replacement
|Author||Topic: Steering Cable Replacement|
posted 03-07-2002 10:26 AM ET (US)
We will be replacing the steering cable in our Super Sport 15. Any tips and suggestions will be appreciated. The boat has an OMC Johnson motor and controls.
posted 03-07-2002 11:12 AM ET (US)
Will probably have to remove engine to get cable out.
posted 03-07-2002 11:18 AM ET (US)
Why remove the engine? Previously, over the past 16 years, I've removed the piston connector to the engine (this probably isn't the correct term) to clean and grease it.
posted 03-07-2002 11:57 AM ET (US)
No clue what you said there but on both my 15's and 17's I had to loosen the engine bolts and slide it back to get steering cable out. If you can get cable out on yours....great.
Remove cable and install new one, I always do the helm too because it is only like $30 more.
posted 03-07-2002 01:22 PM ET (US)
Look into the Teleflex NFB steering system (rotary). I have one in my Montauk. It has a no feed back system (prop rotation does not cause the boat to turn). You can let go of the wheel and the boat will go straight...forever. It seems to reduce fatigue on those long fishing trips. It does take just a little off the "feel" of the wheel (ie no constant pressure) but it is worth it!
posted 03-07-2002 02:37 PM ET (US)
AMEN to that. I have it on my Montauk. Makes for a nicer ride, and no noticable delay in turning.
posted 03-07-2002 03:59 PM ET (US)
Thanks, that makes it clearer. Had visions of having to take the engine entirely off.
posted 03-07-2002 08:09 PM ET (US)
By the way, the "fit" on my NFB steering arm is much better than the original. The original was a bear to remove because the steering arm was longer and hence I had to either remove the engine or wrestle it out of the tilt tube. Now, it goes in and comes out easy, no engine adjustment necessary.
posted 03-08-2002 09:19 PM ET (US)
Bigshot was correct on removing/loosening the engine. Old cable is out with a battle, however, it's clear the engine will need to be loosened for the new system (any tips on doing this...). Went to West Marine and they didn't have the 14' in the NFB, so opted for the SafeT in the 14' (crunch time, leaving for florida after next week and only this weekend available to get it replaced). Really wanted to get the NFB, may need to check the local marinas to see if they have the NFB system.
posted 03-08-2002 11:58 PM ET (US)
Just what I needed...at just about the right time. I'm hoping I'm not going to have to loosen my engine to get the cable out but atleast I'll know what to do if it's too tight. Hopefully I'll have my new console by the end of the month and I can really get my hands dirty with the renovation!
posted 03-10-2002 02:08 PM ET (US)
Just removed mine yesterday,nd yes I had to loosen the four engine bolts,not a huge deal.
Question:The one I removed was a Telaflex and ran down the side of my 69' Katama.Are the new ones more flexable??? I would like to run the cable to run up thru the tunnel. Is this possible? The old one seems pretty rigid.Thanks,Andy
posted 03-10-2002 06:10 PM ET (US)
I just installed a Teleflex cable on my 1966 Eastport. I also had to loosen the motor bolts to get the cable into the tube. The cable is certainly flexible enough to run through the tunnel.
posted 03-11-2002 11:19 AM ET (US)
I know this is going to sound like a really dumb question, but I have to ask. I'll be doing the same thing in about a month, depending on when my new console comes in. Once I loosen the bolts, will I have to reseal them?
Fogive my ignorance!!!
posted 03-14-2002 02:32 PM ET (US)
Mission completed. Motor did need to be lifted to get the new cable into the housing. This was done by removing three of the bolts and loosening the fourth. Slowly the motor was tilted to gain access to the housing. Used a floor jack with some 2 * 4s to lift and steady the engine. Actually, not to bad of a task. Getting the old cable out proved to be more difficult. A good amount of time was spent cleaning the inside of the cable housing on the motor (it was pretty pitted, etc.) Thanks to all for the input!
posted 03-14-2002 02:41 PM ET (US)
I deserve an attaboy for that. I knew I had to remove the 50 on my 15 to install. Did the same thing with a floor jack and a helping hand. My 17 I just loosened the bolts and whacked the snot out of it.
DaveS....Is your cable bad? If not, just remove the cable from the helm and leave connected to the engine.
posted 03-14-2002 10:54 PM ET (US)
I have to be honest, I really don't know, the steering is kind of stiff, but it's water under the bridge, I pulled the console off tonight and I didn't have to move the engine...it was a little bugger trying to pull it thought but for never having done anything like that before, it wasn't as hard as I thought.
I did have to remove the cable anyway, it was too short. When I contacted Boston Whaler they told me the Montauks were shipped with 17' cable while the Newport had a 14'. I'm going to replace the whole steering system anyway, the price difference between the cable and the complete package was next to nothing.
Now I need to find a buyer for my console...any takers?
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