Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
|Author||Topic: Cleat lnstallation|
posted 06-10-2002 09:17 AM ET (US)
I have a 17' and was about to install four cleats on the gunnels. A standard four screw type. The wood location diagram indicates wood at about the points where I would locate the cleats but it shows the imbedded plywood turned up in a way that you're likely to only catch the edge of the wood from the gunnel. Looks like you could maybe get two of the four screws in to wood. Anyone have any suggestions as to getting these mounted good and tight on the gunnel?
posted 06-10-2002 10:35 AM ET (US)
Whenever i install any thing on a Whaler i install wood plugs some times broom handle size about, 1.5 inches long ,epoxied in flush with the surface...then use stainless steel screws,,,,
posted 06-10-2002 04:03 PM ET (US)
Before you put the cleats on the top of the gunwale, please consider mounting them lower and on the inwales or bulwark of the cockpit side.
I much prefer this location and have mounted a pair of stern cleats on my 15-foot hull this way.
By mounting them below the top of the gunwale you keep it clear of the cleat. You could snag fishing lines or mooring lines on the cleat.
In the wood locating diagram (hyperlink below) this would correspond to location A.
I believe from a functional and aestheic viewpoint, your are much better off with the cleats mounted as I have suggested. You will be much better fixed from a mechanical point of view, as well.
posted 06-10-2002 06:13 PM ET (US)
Good points about mounting below the gunnel. However, mine is a SS Ltd., and I believe, (I'm not with the boat right now), that on mine the terminal block is located at point "A" starboard and I think there is a rail stanchion located at point "H", port and starboard, all I'm sure because the wood is there to fasten to. I will check it later but I think that is the case. If so, that puts me back up on the gunnell? Of the four screws on each cleat, I could maybe get the two inside screws to bite the edge of the embedded wood at both "A" and "H". The other two outside screws would just be attaching to the thin fiberglass which is not very good.
posted 06-11-2002 08:20 AM ET (US)
I have two cleats mounted midships as you describe. I put them in with self tapping screws using west system epoxy to bed them in. Most, if not all, of the time the pull on these is lateral and I have not had a problem with mine. I tend to use them for tying to a dock etc so the strain is not huge. I understand what Jim is saying about mounting inside the boat; I opted against that as I like to have a clear lead to the cleat rather then wrapping over the gunnel, and I do not fish on the boat. Perhaps it is more a matter of intended usage.
posted 06-11-2002 09:32 AM ET (US)
When you say you bed the screws with epoxy, do you just spread epoxy on the threads of the screws before you tighten them down?
|Tom W Clark||
posted 06-11-2002 11:40 AM ET (US)
My advice is: donít!
Cleats are not necessary if you have side rails. The front stanchion works perfectly as an attachment point for fenders or a spring line. The stern lifting eyes work for the stern lines.
On my 17 footers I used 3/8Ē braided dock lines with the eye splice in one end. These simply loop around the stanchions anywhere you want them.
Fenders tie off anywhere as well. Cleats will forever by snagging lines and toes.
If you just HAVE to install cleats consider well nuts. These are expanding rubber and brass inserts that provide a threaded insert in thin skins like the fibergalss skin of a Whaler. They are quite strong but have the added benefit of probably failing before the skin on your Whaler is torn loose.
posted 06-12-2002 10:19 AM ET (US)
Thanks guys for the comments and suggestions.
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