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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
posted 07-02-2002 09:15 PM ET (US)
I just bought a 1978 Newport. My goal is to give it a face lift (inside and outside) without getting to carried away. The inside, which is tan has some spider cracks to both the smooth and non-slip areas. Can I just clean the inside, fill in the cracks, and paint. My concern about painting is filling in the non-slip textured areas. Could someone give me the basics such as the technique and the proper fillers and paint? Also, after I fill in the nicks and scratches in the outside of the hull, how do I shine up the hull. Should I paint or rub it out. Once again, I don't have any experience. If I paint, what is a good technique and type of paint?
posted 07-02-2002 11:11 PM ET (US)
posted 07-03-2002 08:24 AM ET (US)
Welcome aboard, Jeff. To add to Dick's recommendation, in the upper right hand corner of the main Repairs/Modifications page, there is a box that says something like "Show last 10 days." Using the pull-down menu, expand the list to show two years (or whatever timeframe you want to look at). You can then use your browser's "find" capability (Control-F, or Edit, Find-in-Page, in Netscape) and search for terms like gelcoat or gel coat. We just finished doing a similar repair on our 11' tender and it's fairly simple and you'll find some good information on this site. Getting a good color match is the tricky part. Good luck!
posted 07-03-2002 08:29 AM ET (US)
There are spider cracks and then there are SPIDER CRACKS,
that is, they can vary in size and depth quite a bit.
If there are just a few cracks, I would approach it this way:
What is appropriate resin? If the cracks are not too deep, it could be just gelcoat of the matching tint. If the cracks are large and deep, you may want to fill them with resin and filler material, then topcoat with gelcoat. Really big cracks may need epoxy and some fiberglass material, then some fairing, then gelcoat. Resin can be either epoxy or polyester resin, or some other variations. Epoxy is the best adhesive and makes excellent secondary bonds, but care must be taken to apply gelcoat over it.
If the gelcoat is severely cracked and needs extensive repair, you may want to change to a different approach, more like this:
--make all cracks ready for repair as above
What is very durable paint? That is paint that is expensive and hard to apply. Reports vary, but some have had success with rolling on various modern paints. You'll have to do some research on this. There are very tough paints (like AWL-GRIP and IMRON) that can be sprayed on, but these need professional application and are expensive.
If you want a great finish on the paint, it will cost money and need to be professionally done. If you just want the boat to look decent and all the cracks to be filled, you can do it yourself with careful preparation and application of a modern marine paint.
It you want to get this repair done quickly and don't worry about yachtfinish or long term durability, you can:
--prep cracks as above
You have to decide on your own what condition your boat is currently in and how much time and money you want to invest.
If you are trying to get the boat back to original condition and it is a wreck, in many cases it will be less work, less money, and better return on investment to trade in the boat and buy one in better condition.
posted 07-03-2002 11:50 AM ET (US)
As an aside to jimh's comments above, Awlgrip can be very succesfully applied with a brush or roller. Contact them or a reputable supplier for the details on how to apply and it can save you a ton from the cost of what a pro would charge to spray. Again, as jimh said, it all depends on the trade off between cost and results.
posted 07-04-2002 02:43 AM ET (US)
Jeff, as to the part about rubbing out/buffing your hull after repairs: it really is as simple as you'll read in some of the other threads. I just finished some repairs on my transom with Spectrum gel-coat paste, 220 grit to knock down the high points, then I wet sanded with 320, 400, 600, and 1000 just to be picky about it. Used 3M finesse it II and waxed with Collinite #925, again, as recomended here. The only thing not mentioned is how soft gelcoat paste is, it sands VERY easy. I also masked off the repair with electrical tape until I was into the 400 to keep from making a mess of the surrounding area, probably not required but it made me feel better about it. good luck, Joe
posted 07-04-2002 07:51 AM ET (US)
Good point about gelcoat being easily sanded. You can remove gelcoat quite rapidly with casual sanding.
Epoxy resin is much harder. I made a hasty repair to a crack I had on the transom of my boat last summer, just before we were leaving for a long cruise. I figured I'd just keep the water out for now and make it pretty later. I left the epoxy in a little ridge on the crack, thinking I could sand it down flush when I got around to finishing the job. Yikes--pure epoxy resin is much harder than gelcoat. I started to level that crack off and found I had to use a FILE on the epoxy to cut it, and I had to be very careful not to remove gelcoat in the process. Next time I'll leave less epoxy and be sure to mix it with filler.
posted 07-04-2002 07:55 PM ET (US)
I tried the spectrum gelcoat/paste for the cracks on the outside of the hull; it works pretty good. I am going to order this same paste in a tan color for my interior. I also found that I have some water retention in my hull. I drilled 6 to 8 small weep holes at the lowest points to drain by gravity. I hope this works. It should because the boat has been parked in my drive way and the heat has been intense here in Michigan the last two weeks.
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