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Author Topic:   Shaft too long for stern?
Delta4 posted 10-30-2001 04:05 PM ET (US)   Profile for Delta4   Send Email to Delta4  
I'm a new owner of an old 13 ft whaler (1968) that wants to restore it and have fun! The hull isn't too bad (using the tap test), but the console is rotted out and I'll be replacing all the wood (I do have the old stuff to use as a pattern). I also picked up a 40hp Johnson (1961 in good shape), but the shaft is 20". Is it ok to use a "Jack Plate" to get the motor up and if so what make or model, etc? Would this be too unstable and dangerous (although I know the newer ones have a 20" stern). Since I'm new at this, any and all help would be appreciated. I don't have alot of $ to get a different shaft length, if there is one. Any ideas? Thanks, I know I'll love the boat when I get it done. I'll probably have more questions when I get into the refurnishing.
Delta4 posted 10-30-2001 05:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for Delta4  Send Email to Delta4     
Sorry guys, I took more time to reviw the history on the forum and got my answers. Thanks for looking.
jimh posted 10-30-2001 07:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Perhaps you have not seen these smaller Whalers with engine brackets:

Peter posted 10-30-2001 07:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for Peter  Send Email to Peter     
The 40 might have a shaft that can be shortened. Back then they used to add a 5 inch extension to the shafts. Then you could restore your '68 closer to original that it would be with a jack plate.
Bigshot posted 10-31-2001 10:39 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
Was gonna say that. Pull the lower unit and see if there is a 5" extension on the rods. If so remove it and the spacer block and viola.
Delta4 posted 10-31-2001 01:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for Delta4  Send Email to Delta4     
Thanks for the info. I appreciate your help. Are there any particular recommendations on the location of the console, other than its original location? Should it be moved forward to compensate for the weight or anything? Also, I'll have to rewire the bow light. Any problems to look out for here? I'll probably need help from time to time when I get into it. Thanks for your time and help.
Bigshot posted 10-31-2001 03:49 PM ET (US)     Profile for Bigshot  Send Email to Bigshot     
If bowlight wiring is good, use it. If not run a new wire under rubrail. Or get suckion cup lights with "D" batteries. Mount everything where it is. If screw holes are stripped, get back to us and we'll walk you through that. Do not run the engine deep though, it puts way too much stress on a transom.
Delta4 posted 11-02-2001 11:28 AM ET (US)     Profile for Delta4  Send Email to Delta4     
Thanks for the info. I'm glad to know about the stress having too long a shaft on the transom. I look forward to help as i progress.
andygere posted 11-02-2001 02:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
I used to see a lot of 13's around Cape Cod that had rebuilt consoles with the steering wheel in the center. They were still side consoles like the original, but were built a foot or so wider so a solo operator would be able to sit in the middle. I never made this mod on my '72 13 because I'm short enough to steer while standing in the center by just bending over a bit. You may consider raising the side console a bit to make this an option. I really liked driving the boat that way, especially when casting the beaches for stripers and blues.

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