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Author Topic:   Pictures of fabled Turbo Lift
4whaler posted 08-01-2003 11:38 PM ET (US)   Profile for 4whaler   Send Email to 4whaler  
I finally got my Turbo Lift. Seems no one had a picture during my research on which was best. It was highly recommeded and is bolt on, not bolt thru.

Let me tell you this is one well built unit. Its massive, all stainless steel and weighs about 10 pounds. There are two pictures that you can look at. The one with black square looking hole in the back is actually a strip of no slip tape that allows you to use as a step, so its naturally the top view. The shiny side is the bottom with the winglets that are turned down. I'll let you know how it works out.

top view
[Removed Dead Links--jimh]

Jarhead posted 08-02-2003 09:49 AM ET (US)     Profile for Jarhead  Send Email to Jarhead     
Do you have any concerns about mounting something that rigid to your lower unit?
JohnJ80 posted 08-02-2003 10:12 AM ET (US)     Profile for JohnJ80  Send Email to JohnJ80     
If it isn't rigid, you start to defeat the purpose of the device. The thing will flex instead of providing the lift.

I have one of these and it works very well - better than the sting ray that I had before. It is the best fin I have ever used and I would recommend it over the Doel fin and Stingray (both great products too).

I understand the concern of hitting something and worrying about damaging the lower unit. I think this is offset by the fact that you don't have to drill holes in the lower unit (which weakens the AV plate as some have commented). The Turbo lift actually strengthens the plate by its attachment method because it becomes a lamination.

I would think that anytime you hit anything with your lower unit, or appendages attached to it, you are looking at a problem.


Bill D posted 08-02-2003 10:19 AM ET (US)     Profile for Bill D  Send Email to Bill D     
I had one on my 87 montauk almost from the first year (87). The current owner still runs it, never had a problem with lower unit. It even had non-skid tape on the top side and I have stood on it to get bak into the boat while scuba diving. You can see it in the picture...
prm1177 posted 08-02-2003 01:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for prm1177  Send Email to prm1177     
Where should you set up you motor height for one of these? Does it mount just above the existing anti-ventilation plate?
JohnJ80 posted 08-02-2003 11:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for JohnJ80  Send Email to JohnJ80     
I mounts up to the AV plate but the actual fin is about 1.5" above the plate. I have my motor mounted in the top hole (all the way up) so the fin is actually riding at the surface of the water that wells up from the bottom of the boat.

Pretty impressive piece of gear both from a construction and from a performance perspective.


4whaler posted 08-03-2003 11:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for 4whaler  Send Email to 4whaler     
Mine is on and it gave me back a lot of down trim. Im now able to get it trimmed out with about 2 inches left. Cost me about 200 rpm and some speed I think as it has more drag but no more porposing. Instructions say to mount engine in bottom hole or as high as possible. Im WOT @ 5500 rpm on a 60 Hp 4 stroke Yamaha turning a 11 1/2 x 13 prop. I did some radical turns and hard overs going full tilt to see if she'd break out. It only did twice on the same direction turn and it wasn't all that violent. Did try to over rev' but the limiter kicked in and held the rpm to 6100, nice feature that. I think Im going to keep it on for a while, as its nice to have some trim adjustment back. Hole shot is better too, bow doesn't point sky ward any more and it comes down much quicker.
rb posted 08-04-2003 02:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for rb  Send Email to rb     
Had mine on for two weekends now and a big help with my application. Agree with 4whaler, no more porposing and seems to come down a lot smoother off the top of a wave. I have a merc 50 on a 2" setback bracket and when running the plate is nearly all the way out of the water, more like touching the spray off the back of the transom. If it is creating any drag it would have to be minimal. rb
JohnJ80 posted 08-04-2003 03:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for JohnJ80  Send Email to JohnJ80     
I moved my engine all the way up and have not been able to make it break loose.

4whaler, did you move your engine all the way up. I think there shouldn't be much, if any drag once on a plane if it is all the way up.


4whaler posted 08-04-2003 07:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for 4whaler  Send Email to 4whaler     
My Turbo Lift is still well down in the water though its about 1 inch above bottom of hull. I now have two fat low rooster tails coming up on either side starting at the end of the splash plate,with a pretty deep "V" cut in the water directly behind the engine. Im as high as I can go with the top bolts in the lowest holes and the lower bolts down towards the bottom of the slots. I didn't get to run it like I really wanted to check it out as there was a thunder storm coming and it ran us off the lake. Just made it before the wind and rain started and several lightning strikes on the surrounding hill tops movivated us to clear the AO.
kshoaps posted 08-05-2003 10:53 AM ET (US)     Profile for kshoaps  Send Email to kshoaps     
I'm also very interested in the TurboLift. I have a new 150 Sport with 60 4 stroke Bigfoot. I find the boat doesn't come on plane until 3200 rpm at 16-17 mph on GPS with a 200 lb driver.

Has the planing speed and rpm dropped with the fin?

Buddy has a 14' Crestliner side console with 30 hp 2 stroke that planes reliably at 11 mph--but that's probably too much to expect!

mvsand posted 08-05-2003 01:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for mvsand  Send Email to mvsand     
How does that mount & where can you find one?
4whaler posted 08-05-2003 02:19 PM ET (US)     Profile for 4whaler  Send Email to 4whaler     
You get them from Grand Island Marine in Florida, Tel: 321-452-8126. The are hand made for each motor series and type from what I can tell. The are not cheap but they are all stainless 1/8 inch? steel plate. Cost $165 including shipping if you sent check instead of COD. If you look at the picture below you can see the two strips that clamp onto the top of your anti-cavitation plate above your prop. They pull the turbo lift up flush with the bottom of your engine anti-cav plate. The hole cuts are for your steering offset skeg and its bolt to protrude thru. The boat does plane much faster and at a slower speed with it on. Im still working on optimum engine hight. Im up as high as I can go with bolts, may have to get offset plate to get higher. I'll take some closeup shots of it mounted and post here.

JohnJ80 posted 08-06-2003 05:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for JohnJ80  Send Email to JohnJ80     

If you are still trimmed in all the way, you will still get the low rooster tails that you describe, even at all the way up. I get the same thing.

However, they disappear quickly as you trim the motor out (up) since the lower unit drag diminishes as it comes up. You probably would be able to tell just by listening to the engine and feeling the boats performance. When I trim mine up just a little (maybe 10% or so) you can just feel the boat come out of the water and start going better.

I think you just need to experiment some more.


JohnJ80 posted 08-06-2003 09:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for JohnJ80  Send Email to JohnJ80     

"low rooster tails that you describe, even at all the way up", I meant at all the up in vertical position on the transom, not trimmed all the way up. In rereading this, I guess I wasn't clear.


lakeman posted 08-11-2003 07:14 AM ET (US)     Profile for lakeman  Send Email to lakeman     
4Whaler or anyone can you compare it's performance to any other fin or planer such as Bob's machine shop or Sting ray or the SE300.

I have the SE300 on my 18 Dauntless and it improved the performance but still have a poor hole shot with a 135 opti, playing with motor height, and would not mind spending the money if it worked better.

JohnJ80 posted 08-11-2003 12:35 PM ET (US)     Profile for JohnJ80  Send Email to JohnJ80     
I used to have a Johnson 2 stroke 70HP on my boat with a stingray. I repalced that with a 2003 Evinrude FICT 75HP motor this year with a Turbo Lift. Granted there is alot of differnce in those two motors in both weight and torque.

It did seem that my hole shot on the Turbo Lift is much more than without than it was with the Stingray on the old motor with and without.

So, I think the Turbo Lift is better than the stingray, but if you have a good fin it may be like arguing which #2 pencil is better.

That all being said, I have heard good things about Sting Rays and Doel Fins but I have heard some negatives on the SE300.

Unfortunately, as with all of these motor trim/adjust issues, it seems to be a bit of a science project.

Have you done all the vertical adjustments and prop selection things too?


4whaler posted 08-11-2003 12:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for 4whaler  Send Email to 4whaler     
All in all the performance is better. I selected the Turbo Lift because I did not have to drill my anti cavitation plate.
You can see some more pictures on my web site at the link below:
SpeedBump posted 08-12-2003 02:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for SpeedBump  Send Email to SpeedBump     
4whaler-- thanks for the pictures - excellent, very helpful in fully understanding how the unit fits on the lower unit and how it rides while underway.

It is interesting that the "gull wing" shape of the lift doesn't appear to widen the cavitation plate in the same plane as a Dol-fin or Stingray will, but lengthens it in the plane of the cavitation plate then raises the width by an inch or so before getting wider. The tips seem to make sense in helping the stern track better or cut the rooster-tail effect.

Is there an explanation as to the benefits of the distinctive turbo lift shape over the shape of typical plastic units?

Does it avoid drag when on plane due to riding higher?

Does the shape effect the initial lift as the unit rises through the water and avoid drag because it is above the caviotation plate when on plane?

I have used the Dol-Fin on my 13' classic w/ a 25 Evenrude then later moved it to my 40 Yamaha and it worked really well.

With my '70 Nausett with 70 HP Nissan I think the turbo lift will perform better. From the photos I'm sold on trying it because there is no drilling of the lower unit involved and it appears to be a very rigid and well built unit, better than the plastic units currently available. My only reservations are design characteristics and price.

Can anyone confirm my assumptions before I buy one?

triblet posted 08-12-2003 10:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
It can flex and still provide lift. What the wing tips on
the next jet you are on. They will rise a couple of feet or
more as lift builds.


4whaler posted 08-12-2003 11:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for 4whaler  Send Email to 4whaler     
It is a very well made unit as you can see. Im still have a little porposing tendency which this tubro lift dampens out very nicely but at almost full down trim. Depends on my speed/rpms how much it will let me up trim it, as I do the rpm climbs a little and the drag seems to fall off. You can kinda feel it in the seat of your pants. I try to run it right on that edge just before she starts to porpoise which is more likly to happen the closer to WOT Im at. Lower rpms/speed less tendency. My prop guy is going to cup my spare SS prop which is the same as in the pictures. He says that will give me a little more bite and may be just what the boat needs to push it off the balance point at the engine and transom which is why she wants to porpoise he says. I might also try a static transom jack plate and put it back 2.5-4 inches and up a little more. That should shift the CG back and change the balance point enough to get off the wedge.
SpeedBump posted 08-13-2003 03:17 PM ET (US)     Profile for SpeedBump  Send Email to SpeedBump     
4whaler- good information here on your turbo lift.. you have suggested putting a static jack plate to elevate the motor more an cause a set back of up to 4 inches. this modification will help eliminate porposing and increase top end and hole shot. Is there then a need for the turbo lift plate? I would think that while the jack plate fixes what you are attempting to do with the fin the fin then becomes overkill..

what is the better approach - adding the fin or installing the jack plate?? Doing both can run $400-$500 depending on the jack plate choice.

prm1177 posted 08-13-2003 04:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for prm1177  Send Email to prm1177     
It looks from the pictures that the anti-ventilation plate is riding below the keel. Is this how the Turbo Lift is supposed to be used? The literature I've seen says the lift should ride above the water.
JohnJ80 posted 08-13-2003 10:40 PM ET (US)     Profile for JohnJ80  Send Email to JohnJ80     
The turbo lift mounts under the AV plate, fitting around the trim skeg, with two clamps on each side on top of the plate that screw down to hold it in place. The plate exends out on each side to where it turns a right angle up for about 1.5" and then continues out on each side. It is only below the AV plate by the thickness of the stainless steel plate.

When you are on a plane, ideally the fin part (lowest part) should be at the very top of the water. The aerated water that comes off the back of the transom works against the 'wings'.

Once I installed mine, I picked the motor to the top hole without any problems. I ride there all day in chop or smooth water without breakout no matter what I do.

There is a tiny v shaped wake down below that disappears the minute i put any trim on the motor at all (out trim). My motor has the ability to negatively trim in a few degress, and i suspect this is the cause of that wake.


4whaler posted 08-14-2003 12:32 AM ET (US)     Profile for 4whaler  Send Email to 4whaler     
I have my motor all the way up and that puts the Anti Cav Plate about 1.5 inches above the bottom of the transom. My turbo lift rides under water from what I can tell. I cannot see it, but that maybe caused my my going to the stern to look and putting 200 lbs there causing it to submerge. I feel like I could stand to have another inch or so motor elevation and still be ok, especially if the fin is supposed to ride on the surface of the hard water coming out from under the boat. I have found an very nice static jack plate for less than $100 I think Im going to try to get a little more rear CG and height. Im may take the fin off after running the boat on the jack plate to see what performace changes I might have. I think that its a plus for the most part reguardless.
kshoaps posted 08-14-2003 08:56 AM ET (US)     Profile for kshoaps  Send Email to kshoaps     
Where can you get a jack plate for $100?
4whaler posted 08-17-2003 10:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for 4whaler  Send Email to 4whaler     
Cooks Mfg has a 2 1/2 incher for $83.00

4whaler posted 09-26-2003 03:43 PM ET (US)     Profile for 4whaler  Send Email to 4whaler     
Moved the Pictures of Turbo Lift to new location so link above is broken. Sorry about that. Here is were the new and better set is.

jimh posted 09-26-2003 11:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
[Removed dead links]

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