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E-Tec 90 final performance report
|Author||Topic: E-Tec 90 final performance report|
posted 03-25-2004 12:53 PM ET (US)
The following is a final performance report for my new 90 hp E-Tec, saltwater edition (Model E90DSLSR):
The boat is a 1987 17-Montauk, full gear including anchor, anchor line, bow seat, cooler, 6 lifejackets, small tool kit, first aid kit, console cover, RPS cover, VHF with low profile antenna, Pate C-27 gas tank with 12 gallons of gas, stern mounted Raycor fuel filter, stern mounted West Marine Group 27 battery.
The engine is a 2004 Evinrude E-Tec E90DSLSR. (In-line 3-cyl E-TEC). Bore 3.600 x Stroke 2.58879, with a 1295 cu displacement. 90 HP (67 kw) @ 5000 RPM, with a full throttle range of 4500 to 5500 RPM. Fuel induction is E-TEC Direct Fuel Injection w/stratified low RPM combustion mode.
The engine is mounted via a Cooks Manufacturing two-piece adjustable manual set back plate, with the full height of the 5" of slot adjustment at the motor mounting bracket, and the lowest 1.5" of adjustment at the transom bracket. 4-inch setback. The anti-cavitation plate is approximately 3.5" from the lowest transom point.
The propeller is a Stiletto 13.25" x 17” three bladed polished stainless steel.
PERFORMANCE (via GPS on flat water, 460 lbs of passenger weight)
3000 rpm 21.5 mph
The addition of the heavier SS propeller added a lot of top end, with no noticeable effect on hole shot. The engine actually maxed out at 5200 rpm at medium trim, and by trimming up, the max rpm/mph was achieved without any noticeable cavitations. The engine probably could have been trimmed farther up, (we went to 5600 rpm for a very short time with 43mph) and gone up to 5700 without slipping, but this was not tested.
Many thanks to those on the forum who have contributed to this project, especially Sal who answered all my pesty e-mail questions and comments regarding propeller selection.
posted 03-25-2004 01:34 PM ET (US)
Excellent follow-up data. I have two questions:
1) How many hours into your break-in schedule are you?
2) What was the appoximate temperature of the air and seawater?
Engines perform differently depending on the these temperatures so I thought I'd ask the questions for future reference.
posted 03-25-2004 01:43 PM ET (US)
Rob, those are some interesting facts. Most interesting to note are the differences in RPM at idle, both in and out of gear, and the reduction in vibration at 1000-1200 rpm. In theroy, non of these speeds are significant enough to produce such noticeable changes, especially regarding the out of gear idle speed, and the 1000-1200 prm range vibration. I am wondering, since the engine has through the hub exhaust, have you noticed any difference in the props that might affect this? Does the older or newer one have more or less of an opening? I would imageing that the Stainless prop may require less metal to produce adequeate strenght, thus allowing for larger openings around the hub.
posted 03-25-2004 01:57 PM ET (US)
I can answer the first question for you...
There is no Break-In-Period on these new E-Tech Engines...
I am looking forward to the larger engines coming out hopefully early next year..
posted 03-25-2004 02:06 PM ET (US)
Dave, according to the litature, there is no break-in period at all for this engine, but I have about 10 hrs at 2500-4000 with periodic higher RPM ranges. It was probably about 60+ degrees air temp and 58 degrees H20 (I'm guessing there).
Salmon Tub: The Stiletto has a smaller cup than the Aluminim prop. It was curious that idle RPM was down a tad, that just doesn't make sense. I would imagine that it should always be the same...even with no propeller at all. Perhaps it because it was colder at the second test? (83 vs. 60 degrees at the two trials.) The two props weights are drastically different. The SS prop is much, much heavier, and perhaps this adds a centerfuge type of dampening effect at low (1000 to 1200) RPM. I assumed the engine would run at higher in-gear idle RPM, requiring less power once the SS prop's momentum got up to speed. That didn't seem to be the case.
posted 03-25-2004 04:30 PM ET (US)
This is an excellent performance report on a new product.
From previous reports of Montauk owners with the popular Yamaha 2-stroke 90's, the E-tec performance is almost identical at 42 mph top end.
posted 03-25-2004 05:34 PM ET (US)
The performance predicting equation says 43 MPH should be the top speed with 90 HP and the weight load stated here. So it would appear from this data that the E-TEC is producing exactly 90 HP.
If it holds up as well as it is expected to based on the warranty promotion, then they have what I would call a "killer application" for the classic Montauk.
posted 03-26-2004 08:28 PM ET (US)
Rob, interesting, but does the hub of the new prop look like it will let the engine 'breathe' easier (less exhaust restriction)?
posted 03-26-2004 09:52 PM ET (US)
Rob, more than glad to help you.
Did you notice a completely different ride with the change of props, from aluminum to s/s ?
Did your boat seem to ride higher on the water than before ?
The area you run in, is noted for very strong currents, [ Raccoon straights ] & if you were bucking the current, your gps would give you a truely lower speed then what you were really traveling, as speed over the bottom would not take into concideration of the tidal flow.
The opposte is true if you were running with the current,...it would read about 3 - 4 mph either way.
That Stiletto will hang on without blowing out long after the aluminum blew out.
For some reason I have a hunch that engine can swing a 19p to about 5400 rpms, which should put you at or above 45 mph trimmed out.
That engine is totally computerized, & it should idle in gear at 650 rpms no matter which prop it's twisting.
Thanks for the excellent test report.
posted 03-28-2004 06:15 PM ET (US)
Great test report! I'm thinking that Evinrude/Bombardier has a winner with their E-TEC technology.
I don't know for sure, but these engines probably do have a break in period. Nothing that you have to do, but it is controlled by the computer in the EFI, would be my guess. That is how its done in my 2003 FICHT, its a great concept (since the user doesn't need to worry about it).
In the FICHT, it uses more oil for the first 10 hours above 2K RPM and it does something to the engine timing too. I did notice a sudden performance boost (maybe 10-15%) at about that time.
posted 03-29-2004 12:01 PM ET (US)
Been in Vegas for the last few days, so sorry about the delay...just getting back up to speed.
Salmon Tub, I'm not sure about the hubs, but I'll look again. My recollection was that the hubs were similar or identical, but Ill look again.
Sal, it was a very different ride, especially at the top end! The boat felt smoother and more stable. I did notice that the bow seemed to stay down and the boat felt flatter. With the aluminum prop, it felt slightly inclined at speed, like it was working hard to stay there. I also raised the engine a bit, and thought the change in height caused this...is this effect the result of the propeller switch? I was testing out at Cal City, the only place I could find that was flat enough to open up. It was essentially slack tide, but I took a run in either direction, and avearged the two readings (about a 1-2 mph difference.)
John, I read somewhere in the litature that the engine burns extra oil for the first two hours above 1200 rpm, and then that is it for break in. I made sure to vary the rpms, then waited for quite a while before putting the hammer down.
posted 03-29-2004 02:05 PM ET (US)
Tell us how the mpg is.
I would expect over 5 mpg on this motor.
I am waiting for the V6 - 200 to come out (maybe next year)?
posted 04-01-2004 01:34 PM ET (US)
Salmon Tub: Just a follow-up, the SS prop has a smaller cup, and the hubs are an identical design. I'm worried about my tachometer, though, because my idle RPMs are around 900, and not the 650 that Sal states. On ignition, the rpm gauge reads 300, then jumps to 900 when the engine is started. I'm going to kill myself if I've been running that engine at above max RPM.
posted 04-01-2004 04:05 PM ET (US)
Wow, 900 rpms at idle & in gear is way to high.
Is the tach new ?
Look on the back of it & the dial should be set on #6 for that engine, if it's not, it's giving you the wrong reading.
I would think it's reading to high, thus your not turning near as many rpms as you think.
Example, if it's reading 900 rpms & is actually turning 650, than your like 250 rpms below what it says.
What does the manual say it should idle at?
|John from IL||
posted 04-01-2004 08:30 PM ET (US)
Regarding the idle speed thing - I've got the 75/90 E-TEC Service Manual in front of me. Idle speed in Nuetral is 600 +/-50 rpm and idle speed in gear is 700 +/-50 rpm. Frankly I suspect the tach, if set correctly on "6" as Sal said, is probably just reading happy. Two ways to know for sure are to hook up a lap top or PDA with diagnostic software and read the info direct from the EMM, or hook up an acurate shop tachometer and compare the reading to the boats tachometer.
If the idle speed is too high for your personal preferences, there is a feature in the diagnostic software that will allow the in gear idle speed to be adjusted. It can be changed in 10 rpm increments up 100 rpm, or down 250 rpm. I adjusted idle speed for a customer just yesterday and demo'd the feature several times in the last 2 or 3 days. Everybody thinks it's pretty slick.
Hope this helps,
posted 04-01-2004 08:58 PM ET (US)
Don't lose any sleep. When you plug your data into the prop calculator the calculator says you haven't been overreving the engine.
Before you play around with the idle adjustment, I wonder if its worth checking the length adjustment of the throttle cable at the engine. The cable's throw could be too long causing the throttle linkage not to rest on the idle stop like it should. I had that problem when I installed a Yamaha 70 on my 15 SuperSport. The idle was too high and was caused by an incorrectly adjusted cable length. When the control was put in neutral, the thottle linkage at the engine was not pulled back to the idle stop like it should be. This is fixed simply by adjusting the cable length at the engine and, if necessary, the control end. I had to do it on both ends.
posted 04-01-2004 09:15 PM ET (US)
I have never seen any cable length adjustment on the Control Box end of any of the OMC or Bombardier Binnacle Control Mounts...
What type of engine did you adjust this on?
You may be right about the cable adjustment, but only on the Engine end for OMC/Bombardier that I am aware of... I have both the newer and older style Binnacle Controls from OMC/Bombardier in both the Single and Double configurations.
posted 04-01-2004 09:23 PM ET (US)
Joe - In my case, it was Yamaha 70 with a Yamaha 703 control. I had to adjust both ends to take up the slack so the throttle linkage would hit the idle stop.
posted 04-01-2004 09:54 PM ET (US)
What concerns me about the Tach is that you say when you turn the ignition on it automatically reads 300 RPM....
Is this tach a Brand New Bombardier "System Check" Tach? Or something else?
posted 04-02-2004 12:00 PM ET (US)
Rob, don't forget that your engine is not a run of the mill, old generation carbed engine that is strictly controled by mechanical connections. As I understand, most of the the engine functions are now computer controled so things like idle speed screws, throttle sets and stoppers, even most linkages are a thing of the past. As for the showing 300 rpm during ignition, this may very well be normal since a computer monitors the system. Just the fact alone, that the out of gear idle is lower than the in gear idle, shows that there is some manipulation by the computer, since otherwise, this is completely opposite of what happens in non computerized engines. That in itself is a nice feature, since it allows you to shift into gear at a lower speed, preventing possible damage, then compensates and increases idle speed to an operative speed. Before I would be too worried, I would call tech support and confirm with them if some of the 'symptoms' you have described are not normal.
Joe, Sal, remember, the engine is computer controlled. I would not be surprised if the tach does not even get it's signal from the magneto/rectifier as in engines of the past, but rather from the CPU, eliminateing the need for switching of pole settings in the tach itself. There may be a reason why the tach shows 300 rpm at start up, it could even be some sort of diagnostic indicator.
posted 04-02-2004 02:37 PM ET (US)
Guys, the tach is a new Faria 6000rpm Chesapeake Black. I called Bombardier before I bought it and they said that either a 6-pole or 12-pole setting on the tachometer would work. The Faria gauge only has a 12-pole setting, and that is where it is set. The tach does not have an integrated systems check, so I bought and installed a Systems Check gauge.
I never even thought about the idle reading until Sal mentioned that it idles at 650 RPM. The owner’s manual confirms this, and it does not sound like it is idling high, in fact it sounds perfect.
I'm going to replace it with a true, 7000rpm, outboard, multi-pole tachometer, set it at 6-pole, and see what happens. I don't think I'm going to mess with the linkage because the engine reacts exactly as John said...RPMs increase from idle to in gear, by about 150rpm.
If the tach defective (or just not compatible) it would explain a lot...like the high idle reading, and the increase/sporadic idle rpm readings.
I'll keep you guys posted when I figure this out, as always, thanks for the information advise and help. (go ahead, Sal, say it!)
posted 04-02-2004 03:33 PM ET (US)
Wow, my bad, I assumed that you had OEM gauges for that engine. Out of curiosity, what does the engine come with? Not that it is exactly apples to apples, but my nissan came with control box, all wiring harnesses, prop, drag link, gauges and fuel line. Thus, I assumed that all engines come with that stuff.
posted 04-02-2004 04:57 PM ET (US)
Rob, hopefully it is the tach.
From my experience, I'v found that most any tach on an omc Bombardier engine just wont read correctly.
I've always stayed with the engine manufacturers tach & had much better results.
I put 3 different telefex tachs on my boat & set them all at #6 & still never got a correct reading.
From what your explaining, it sounds like your engine is running just fine, just not giving you the right rpms.
If this is true, that engine isn't twisting that 17p Stiletto to it's maximum rpms & I see no reason why it shouldn't.
Let us know, as your engine is the first we have had a chance to see any type of results because it's the first e-tech.
posted 04-02-2004 06:05 PM ET (US)
Actually he should be just about right because he mentions on his first post that he could possibly go beyond 5700 RPM's.. If you subtract 300 RPS's because of the tach, that would put him right at 5400 RPM's at WOT....
I do agree with Sal on the Instruments... I am a firm believer of OEM gauges on any engine... Mercury = Mercury gauges, Bombardier = Bombardier gauges, etc....
You might have saved a little money and a little time installing your extra System Check gauge if you would have purchased an OEM Bombardier Tachometer with the Built-In System Check features....
I hope the new Tach does the trick for you.... I think many of us are envious of your new engine... I know I would like to try one....
posted 04-05-2004 12:31 PM ET (US)
Well, I'm happy to report that the discrepancy I experienced seems to be only at the low RPM range. I borrowed an OMC "systems matched" tachometer, and took additional readings this weekend. Idle was just under 700, and idle in gear was 750/800. All other readings remained the same. (5500 RPM at WOT, trimmed up, hitting a steady 42.5 mph) With a light load, the engine hits 5100-5200 at any trim, and then max RPM when tilted up. I do need to tilt down when returning to lower RPM to prevent cavitation during hole shot and hard turning.
Next time, I won't skimp on the instruments, and go with all Bombardier stuff. An interesting note...after reinstalling my old tachometer, it zeroed out and correctly reads the idle/in gear RPM (for now!)
Anyone interested in this engine is welcome to come take a first hand look, and a short cruise, even more so now that we have an extra hour of daylight after work!
Finally, to answer Salmon Tub's question, the engine only came with a propeller mounting kit, 12" gas line lead with 3/8" nipple fitting, 8' battery cables, a steering arm link kit, rubber control grommet, 4 stainless steel engine bolts with nylock nuts, a pull-start handle and cord, and that’s about it.
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