Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
water in the hull
|Author||Topic: water in the hull|
posted 10-15-2003 10:13 PM ET (US)
I drilled holes in the hull for the clips provided by MILLS for the mooring cover on my 03 Dauntless 16. 2 sets of holes (just under the rub rail) midships, weeped a significant amount of water. In fact I had to use a wet vac to get it to stop before installing the screws.
Although the boat was outside in rain most of the fall, I'm flabergasted that I would find this in a new hull.
posted 10-16-2003 10:14 AM ET (US)
Was it in the rubrail channel/seam or in the fiberglass?
posted 10-16-2003 12:22 PM ET (US)
Suggest you remove the rubrail along the section of the hull where the water was amount was the worst.Then check the hull/cockpit inner liner joint,that the rub rail covers.Could be the joint has opened allowing a gap where the water can enter into the hull by going under the rub rail.I have seen this on two of my hulls.
posted 10-16-2003 05:19 PM ET (US)
Tuna, how can water possibly enter into the hull? I thought the foam bonded chemically to both the inner and outer hull as one solid piece.
posted 10-16-2003 05:32 PM ET (US)
Instead of coming here, I would suggest you simply have your Dealer take care of this under the warranty, since boat is an '03.
posted 10-16-2003 05:33 PM ET (US)
posted 10-16-2003 05:34 PM ET (US)
Oops - you snuck in on me Larry - wasn't referring to you...
posted 10-16-2003 05:46 PM ET (US)
We think the same, John. I wasn't aware that water weeped & seeped *UP* to the gunwales! Boston Whaler boats seem to be under some "pressure" these days.
posted 10-16-2003 08:00 PM ET (US)
In newer type top hull/liner joint(Post Classics)where the hull liner joint is hidden by the rub rail.I have on two of my whaler discovered when the rub rail was remove to clean it up,and the dirt underneath areas:where when the boat was clamped together,the joint interfaces between the hull and liner were open allowing foam to excape(squeeze out between the two surfaces when it was foamed). When whaler runs a edgeing machine over the joint to make a smooth flat edge joint it now contains a open foam area not covered with glass/resin.Then the joint opens there with age and flexing,because it's a weak spot/stress riser,and not a solid proper fiberglass joint like the on the Classics and it's opens about 1/16 of an inch allowing water to enter by coming underneath the rub rail.
To kingfish and ihg it is best to keep your small minds open,you might learn something new-RATHER THAN CALL SOMEONE NAMES.
posted 10-17-2003 10:39 AM ET (US)
I would like to know the real no BS story about water in the hull. Is it possible for water to enter the hull if the hull is drilled into? The reason I ask this question is that if the factory drills a swim platform into the transom can this allow water in. Are these added accessories a potental problem? Is water a problem with the new foam Whaler uses?
posted 10-17-2003 11:31 AM ET (US)
I was referring to the post between you and lhg, my friend, but if you're that anxious to make the shoe fit, far be it from me to dissuade you from wearing it...
posted 10-17-2003 11:52 AM ET (US)
13Dauntless: Yes, water has been and will continue to be an issue with Whalers. The short of it is this...Whalers DON'T sink. The foam keeps them afloat. So if unsinkability is the all important thing to you, yes a Whaler is da bomb. But let's look at a Whaler from a pure boat building standpoint. The skin IS thin - live with it. The layup for the most part is choppered - live with it. The foam doesn't bond 100% throughout the hull - live with it. There is a lack of storage on the smaller models due to the foam - live with it. Read throughout this website as to water in the foam; countless cases - live with it. Blah, blah, blah......
So why do we like Whalers in the first place? 'Cause they're sweet boats, unsinkable, funky, have reached a cult status, respected, long-lived, etc...... I've owned them, still do own one and probably will buy another. Do they leak? Hell yes. Remove a swim platform screw and water will run out. Remove a thru-hull fitting and water will run out. Remove a rub rail and water will run out. So What? I feel confident letting my kids run my whaler. Can't say that about many boats.
Flame suit on - Go ahead and bag on me for my beliefs.
posted 10-17-2003 01:34 PM ET (US)
I've owned a few smaller Whalers growing up, and three in the last 18 months as an adult (88,97,91). The water in the hull question has always been one that used to nag at me. I think that part of the problem is the premise that Whalers and other boats for that matter don't have water in their hulls in some regard. Now I realize that theoretically in a perfect world there should be none if all things were perfect. But its like cars, have you seen many that are truly used (not garaged 99% of the time) that don't start to show some wear; door seals aren't as good, a little rust maybe around the fender or bumper. I think you would be hard pressed to find an auto with ten years plus, or probably even five years that is identical structurally and mechanically to when it was new.
These classic Whalers are ten plus years old and live in the harshest of environments (usually): Blistering UV and salt water. To think that one will have a product that is impervious to these elements after a decade or more to me is naive. The great thing about the unibond construction, in my unscientific opinion, is that I think a Whaler can have a relatively large trauma to a portion of the hull and the remaining ingrity of the hull stays intact. This can get you home in an emergency, but practically speaking keeps the boat quite useable for future years. Now it would be best to fix it, but my hypothesis is that non-unibond construction boat might have more trouble remaining intact and staying recreationally useable with a portion of the seam splitting or a break in the surface of the hull. That is what makes Whalers truly unique and positively different.
Hence, the question posed by ourselves should not be does my Whaler have water in it, but perhaps how much does it have? Short of having ALOT, I think the boat is perfectly enjoyable, safe, and still performs quite well. May you lose a few mph on the top end? maybe. But I don't know too many cars with the same age on them that aren't a few ticks slower in the 1/4 mile either.
I sum, I think the water question we (and I) pose needs an adjustment in terms of the perspective. I've decided to no longer worry about water dripping from a screw hole. I worry if the transom delaminates or the waterline is five inches higher than new or I've lost 10 mph off top end (could be motor though). If you do not suffer from these things, take my advice and don't worry about it. Maintain it, repair it when necessary. Warm wishes :)
posted 10-17-2003 09:13 PM ET (US)
And for those who truly want to see what a small mind looks like, se tuna1's profile. (quickly, before he changes it)
posted 10-17-2003 09:24 PM ET (US)
I swore I wouldn't get into this maddness, but what the hell is a "theif". Is it some kind of boat building specialist.
posted 10-17-2003 09:48 PM ET (US)
Thank you for your replies and comments. It makes sence to me that water/rain can work it's way in by gravity from the top of the rubrail or under it for that matter.
I will have the dealer "deal" with it.
I'm conserned about that water freezing this winter, further expanding the failed joint and making it worse.
However, I sincerely appreciate Mustang's comments. I have enough things to worry about. And, I'm too busy having a blast with it.
posted 10-17-2003 10:57 PM ET (US)
OCUYLER-WOW, how nice it is to see a fertile mind take a thought,concider it and make some conclusions.
Yes,get it to the dealer,but don't expect much this time of year.He is most likely booked solid with good paying fall/winter work.Therefore not much time for a warrenty problem/repair.
Yes ,you should be concerned about water freezeing and the damage it causes to the foam.the cell walls of the foam are opened and the damage proceedes to a larger area each cycle.
If you want i can post or email you photos of the hull/deck joint problem area.It might open the dealer mind alittle so he will look into it deeper than a brush off/no time to do situation.
I have also seen a hard bump to the rub rail area open a good hull/deck joint. One where one might see very fine surface cracks at the impact area and if the rub rail was never removed,the open/cracked hull/deck joint would never be found.
Also,you would be very surprized how much water a loose(not tight and porperly caucked) bow eye can allow to enter into a whaler hull !!!
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