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Author Topic:   Replacing Transom Door
NYGuy posted 05-09-2005 09:26 PM ET (US)   Profile for NYGuy  
I'm replacing the transom door (original cracked and delaminated) on my '99' 23 OR. The replacement door supplied by my BW dealer is solid 'Starboard'. Any suggestions / cautions regarding mounting of the hinges and latch?. I never worked with this material; I'm assuming an appropriate sized pilot hole and stainless steel screws. I understand that the coaming bolster is attached to the original door with plastic 'Christmas Tree' type connectors, will these connectors work in a solid starboard replacement. Thanks for any help.


fno posted 05-09-2005 10:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for fno  Send Email to fno     
Starboard is a high density polyethylene material. You can drill it, use self tapping screws (Steel type are better than wood. Or you can drill and tap the material for real machine screws. Be careful as it will strip the threads. Put a little 3M 5200 on the threads to lock them in place. I don't know anything about the Xmas tree connectors.
Chuck Tribolet posted 05-09-2005 11:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
Rather than screwing into the Starboard, I'd use SS machine
screw and barrel nuts. The barrel nuts will provide a nice
almost flush surface on the back and will be stronger than
screwing into the Starboard.


bsmotril posted 05-10-2005 11:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
I agree the nuts would be stronger. But, I don't think the barrel nuts are an option as they would interfer with the door jam when closed. That door is pretty similar to what was on my Conquest 23. It used screws, and held up fine through a lot of rough water. My Hinge was a piano hinge with many screws holding it on. BillS
NYGuy posted 05-10-2005 08:24 PM ET (US)     Profile for NYGuy    
I'm leaning toward SS screwing to the starboard, the door is supported by two, three screw hinges (not piano). As per Bsmotril, clearance is a factor on the jamb side. I'd like to thru-bolt the whole thing; door no problem, not sure that I can get behind the jamb side. My only concern is that the new door seems somewhat heavier than the laminated original. Regarding the coaming bolster, I'm not going to mount it as the newer OR models seem not to offer a bolster on the transom door.

I shot BW an E-mail, it will be interesting to see if I get a response. Thank you all for you input.


Plotman posted 05-10-2005 11:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for Plotman  Send Email to Plotman     
I would counter sink the barrel nuts. Much stonger than screing into the starboard, but should avoid the clearance issue.


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