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Author Topic:   More 150 Sport Modifications
Fish Stick posted 02-20-2006 02:09 PM ET (US)   Profile for Fish Stick   Send Email to Fish Stick  
I have had the chance to make some more updates and modifications to the 150 Sport.

The recent changes include: adding a Standard Phantom 1000 VHF and command mic, changing the 3 switch circuit breaker panel to a 6 switch panel, moving the Smart Craft from the top of the wheel to the port side, moving the DC outlet from port side to starboard on console, add a horn, mounting an antenna, new stainless wheel, built in battery charger and installing a recessed flag pole socket. ppuser/104452

This is the long description of each change.

With all the talk of DSC and position polling, I had to have VHF. The Black box was the only unit that fit the console well, using only the mic.

I paired this radio with the 4' Digital antenna and a Shakespeare HD ratchet mount. The antenna lays down perfect beside the rail and does not get in the way of anything

The 6 switch breaker panel is actually a Blue Seas vertical panel, but I rotated it to fit side ways. The 3 switch panel didn't have enough room for everything. The boat now has switches for bait pump, stereo, VHF, GPS, deck lights, and horn.

The Smart Craft was moved to the port side of the console, replacing the DC outlet. It was moved to make room for an Aquatics stereo to be installed shortly above the wheel.

Use a 1 3/8" hole saw for the gauge. It is an odd size but the right tool for the job.

The stereo will go above the wheel on a stainless plate painted white. An IPOD may go under it next to the wheel on the Starboard side too.

The DC outlet was moved to the starboard side, out of the way as shown in the pictures, to connect an IPOD or spotlight as necessary.

The horn is a stainless model from Boaters World for about $ 35. It is the compact single horn variety and fits nicely.

With all the changes to the console, it was essential to change to a stainless wheel. The stock plastic one blocked the view of everything. Again from Boaters World, and about $ 65.

I added a Promite (?) charger. The smallest water proof, 5 amp, single battery model I could find. About $ 60 and it fits between the cup holders (underneath) on the port side of the console. I used cup washers on the outside for a clean installation.

The last item was purely for looks. Every Whaler needs some teak some where, and every yacht should fly the flag. I installed a flush mount, recessed flag pole holder for 1" teak flag staffs. A little teak and Old Glory make it feel like a small "yacht". It doesn’t get in the way when the flag is removed, and is a nice piece of hardware.

Make sure you plug the drain hole at the bottom of the socket, or it will drain into the foam. I glued a large fender washer to the bottom with 5200. It completely covered the opening.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. Hopefully this will help with your projects.


fishgutz posted 02-20-2006 02:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for fishgutz  Send Email to fishgutz     
Nice Job. I really like the steering wheel. Classic beauty.
MBW posted 02-20-2006 03:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for MBW  Send Email to MBW     
What all does the Smart Craft gauge do?
TRAFFICLAWYER posted 02-20-2006 04:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for TRAFFICLAWYER    
Looking at the wood locating diagram, I don't think you hit any WhalerBoard or wood where you mounted those cleats. I suspect there afixed only to 3/8ths of fiberglass and foam.
Fish Stick posted 02-20-2006 05:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Fish Stick  Send Email to Fish Stick     
MBW, the Smart Craft guage monitors the engine and provides a ton of information. This includes RPM, Hours, Oil and water temperatures, GPH, gallons used, volts and trim. It is nice to have access to all the information the engine can provide.

Traffic, you are correct, that there is no wood in those locations shown on the wood locating diagram. Behind the rear passenger seat, there is definately no wood, just 1/4"+ fiberglass. I used 5200 to bed the cleats and don't plan on using them for working loads. Only mooring.

The front cleats mysteriously picked up some wood on the front screws, even though it is not shown on the drawing. The wood under the rails might be a little longer than shown.

The screws locked up a 1/2 drill, without stripping, when they bottomed out. So I am confident they will hold for my purposes, but I will not use them to tow the boat or pull another boat.

I did the same thing on the 130 Sport I had and the cleats were never a problem for me.


good_enough posted 02-20-2006 05:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for good_enough  Send Email to good_enough     
FS, very nice job.
Looking forward of doing similar upgrades to my SP150 as well.
Were you able to relocate CG "Capacities" label or just removed?


Fish Stick posted 02-20-2006 05:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for Fish Stick  Send Email to Fish Stick     

I carefully moved the maximum HP/engine weight plate to the inside of the transom. The Coast Guard capacity plate was moved to the port side, between the RPS and the removable bench.

It is clearly visible from the helm and in the same position Whaler installed it on the last boat I had.

Getting the plates off without bending them is the hard part. I used a putty knife and razor blade.

I want to remove the warning, in front of the throttle, but do not know if that sticker is required.

I also have to install some new, California required stickers, regarding CO on the transom and console.

Thank you all for the compliments.


Moe posted 02-21-2006 07:47 AM ET (US)     Profile for Moe  Send Email to Moe     
Good lookin' 150 Sport and some VERY nice mods. You really have a boat to be proud of.


tombro posted 02-21-2006 09:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for tombro  Send Email to tombro     
As a former 150 Sport owner, Kudos on a great job! They truly feel like mini-yachts.
DaveH posted 02-21-2006 12:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for DaveH  Send Email to DaveH     
Joe (Fishstick):

Just a suggestion, the dockside security cable and lock you attached the the cleat would pose much more resistance if you attached them to either the engine or the stern lifting ring. The cleat will be very easy to rip off.

Fish Stick posted 02-21-2006 12:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for Fish Stick  Send Email to Fish Stick     
I use the cleat because there is a cut out in the cover there. You can not tell what it is secured to, without looking in through the opening.

I did think of using the stearn lifting eye, but the lock gets dunked when I board at the stern.

The cover also prevents access to the inner transom or bow rail. I don't want to lift cover up over the rub rail for the cable. It won't stay securly on the boat.

I am hoping the cable is deterant enough. I think it will be difficult to pull out the cleat, but certainly easier than the transom hardware or engine. There are houses directly above the slips, and several other Whalers nearby without locks.

If someone really wants it bad enough, to try and rip out the cleat, a bolt cutter would save all the hassle. (I have had kayaks stolen with cut cables from the slip before)


disneycaber posted 02-28-2006 04:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for disneycaber  Send Email to disneycaber     
I'm anxious to see your stereo installation, especially with an ipod connection. What are your plans for speakers ? I've been considering high quality box speakers locate under the helm seat port and starboard. My 150 sport has a bit to go to match yours. Great job !

Fish Stick posted 03-01-2006 12:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for Fish Stick  Send Email to Fish Stick     

Hopefully, I will be installing the stereo this weekend. I have finished the new face plate and will post some pictures when done.

Bose 151se speakers will be under the seats. I chose these because they were the only ones with the speaker cones angled in different directions. That might help the sound quality, since they are facing straight down.

Ipods are still new to me. I don't even have one yet, but it makes sense not to carry 20 CDs on a skiff.

It will eventually velcro to the console, starboard side of the wheel, and use the AUX in RCA plugs on the stereo to connect it.

It will look just like Glenn E's posts on highlight=ipod&highlightmode=1

I am now thinking I don't even really need the stereo. An Ipod direct to an amp would have probably been cleaner and easier, but I didn't think of that before starting.


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