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Author Topic:   Recommended bottom paint
Dauntless18 posted 04-19-2006 09:39 AM ET (US)   Profile for Dauntless18  
As we have switched marina's and I am now moving from rack storage to a water slip, I am reluctantly going to have to paint the pristine bottom of my Dauntless. My marina is going to do the work, but I know nothing about these paints (or the maintenance of a boat stored in the water).

Any recommendations?


JOHN W MAYO posted 04-19-2006 01:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for JOHN W MAYO  Send Email to JOHN W MAYO     
Go to a store like Boaters World and pick up a brochure by Interlux Paints.
Some pretty good information.
They also recommend to talk to locals where you are going to leave your boat, as some paints work better than other in different conditions.
Check the reference section as I did recently here for info from Whaler, about bottom paint.
prm1177 posted 04-19-2006 05:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for prm1177  Send Email to prm1177     
A good barrier coat is needed first. I used Interlux Interprotect 3000. 3 coats to achieve desired thickness (10 mils). Then whichever bottom paint is suitable for your area. In the Bay area, I use Micron CSC (2 coats).

Place the boat in the water for a couple of days to get a scum line to form, then mask 1-2 in above the line.

Dauntless18 posted 04-20-2006 09:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for Dauntless18    
Thanks for your replies. I have heard that you don't want to do this the "cheap and quick" way. Though, I am getting widely differing quotes. My marina (kind of a high-end place) is quoting about $1,000 for just the barrier coat and plus 2 coats of ablative paint on top - and they can't do it until end of May. RexMarine, which is attached to Surfside 3 (the Whaler dealer) is quoting about $600 all in, including barrier coat and can do it next week. Will probably go with RexMarine as they are a big, and presumably highly qualified organization, but I hope I am not going the "cheap and quick" route which I might regret each year when I repaint.

Will keep you posted.

prm1177 posted 04-20-2006 11:19 AM ET (US)     Profile for prm1177  Send Email to prm1177     
If you are concerned about Rex Marine, I'd visit them during the process. The steps are 1) Sanding, 2) Barrier coat, and 3)Bottom paint. If you work with them to inspect the work after each step, you should be fine. The barrier coats generally require some time between applications (the coat should be dry to the touch, but not tacky (you can leave a finger print, but the paint won't lift off).

Make sure you get 3 coats of the barrier.

BW23 posted 04-21-2006 11:38 AM ET (US)     Profile for BW23  Send Email to BW23     
Interlux's web-site has all of the info you need.

I've been very happy with their MICRON CSC and MICRON Extra paints.

andygere posted 04-21-2006 11:42 AM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
I would make sure that whichever yard you go with, that you insist on a good quality ablative paint. Ablative paints expose the biocide by wearing away slowly as you use the boat. When the paint wears away, simply powerwash the bottom and put more on more paint. I put 3 coats on my Outrage, and it's going strong after 3 seasons. I roll a coat on at the waterlines (where it tends to wear faster) once a year, and have virtually no growth whatsoever. I have had very good luck with Interlux Micron CSC and Micron Extra with Biolux.

Traditional epoxy based antifouling paints slowly leach the biocide through an epoxy base. With the epoxy based paints, they lose effectiveness if the boat is out of the water for more than a week or so, meaning a recoat is needed every year. This also means that a layer of hard epoxy is put on the hull every year, and at some point must be removed (lots of labor and expense). Epoxy paints are cheaper, but it's false economy in my book.

On the West Coast, $600 would be a very good deal, and $1000 would be pretty reasonable. Final advice: I think black bottom paint looks better after time in the water than other colors. On my Montauk I used the traditional blue to match my canvas set, and within a few months it had turned a sickly green at the waterlines, and generally didn't look very sharp. The black still looks black, albeit not quite as dark as when first applied. priming.jpg

Dauntless18 posted 04-21-2006 12:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for Dauntless18    
Thanks for all of your inputs. They are very helpful to someone who has religiously waxed / cared for his unpainted hull and wants to make sure this is done right.

Agreed on the good ablative paint, Andy. If the barrier is put on properly, then hoping the bottom should be un-pockmarked and easier to maintain with this kind of paint in the seasons forward.


macfam posted 04-21-2006 09:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for macfam  Send Email to macfam     
I have had excellent results using Pettit Hydrocoat water-based ablative anti-fouling paint (blue)for at least the last 5-6 years.
May-November with just a quick powerwash off in Nov to rid some slight slime
Being water-based it's easy yo work with and super easy clean-up.
No build up, no cracking, no pealing.

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