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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
220 DAUNTLESS: Holes in Non-Skid
|Author||Topic: 220 DAUNTLESS: Holes in Non-Skid|
posted 05-10-2006 06:17 PM ET (US)
Have three very small holes in the non-skid in various locations on my 2004 220 Dauntless. From a distance they look like it has been touched with the tip of a black felt tip pen. It appears there is a void under the skin of the non-skid. Not sure how big the void is. Thinking of just putting a little 5200 in the hole so it doesn't show as black.
Any other suggestions?
Also, I had a circular piece of non-skid about the half the size of a dime drop into a void on the front storage lid. Over about 3 months, Boston Whaler sent two replacement lids, but they both looked worse than the one I have. Finally put some 5200 on it to hold the piece of non-skid in-place.
posted 05-10-2006 08:40 PM ET (US)
Probe with a piece of wire. Does it feel solid, or like foam?
I'd fill them with Spectrum paste if it's solid underneath.
posted 05-10-2006 09:26 PM ET (US)
From your description of these holes it sounds like there were voids in the laminate structure of these components, and these are defects in the original fabrication. The hull of your Boston Whaler boat has a ten-year warranty against defects, so I would take the boat to an authorized Boston Whaler dealer and ask them to make proper repairs. The Boston Whaler boat is considered to be a premium quality boat. There is no reason to be complacent about voids in the laminate structure showing up after a couple of years.
posted 05-10-2006 10:23 PM ET (US)
What is Spectrum paste?
Good point about the warranty. Will call tomorrow.
posted 05-11-2006 09:17 AM ET (US)
Talked to my BW dealer today. Was familiar with the problem. Said it "well documented" with BW. Said it is a void under non-skid. Problem is you don't know how big it is. Said it could be as big as a quarter. My front storage cover void was a little smaller than a dime.
How do you repair non-skid to make it look right? He is talking to his fiberglass man about what to "inject" into void to hopefully avoid making the "hole" any bigger and close existing "black mark" look.
Will post the answer I get.
posted 05-12-2006 12:35 AM ET (US)
It is possible to make a repair to a non-skid patterned area and have the repair blend in. The usual method is to make a mold of the non-skid. The mold is taken from an area without damage. The damaged area is repaired. The final layer of gelcoat is applied and the mold is pushed into the wet resin. The resin flows into the mold shape and cures. The mold is removed. If all went well, there is a very seamless repair.
The mold is cast with a rubber-like material. A small dam is made and the mold material is pour in place. When it cures the rubber-like mold is peeled off the non-skid.
That is the theory. In practice it may require some technique to get good results. A good fiberglass shop should be able to pull it off (pun intended).
posted 05-13-2006 02:01 AM ET (US)
Voids under gelcoat are not a new problem. During some restoration work on my 1989 Outrage 22 Cuddy, I was chasing some spider web cracks in the splashwell gelcoat. Several of them were caused by a void between the gelcoat and the fiberglass substrate. When I sanded down the cracks, bits of gelcoat chipped off exposing gaps or holes in the laminate. All were easily repaired with a few layers of gelcoat patch paste.
posted 05-13-2006 08:49 AM ET (US)
Spectrum is a company that makes "matching" gelcoat repair
paste for many boats. For my '97ish Montauk, it's a really
good match. There has recently been some traffic here where
folks weren't getting a good match to some older whalers,
more off than could be accounted for by fading.
posted 05-18-2006 03:18 PM ET (US)
There is a company in Ft. Worth Texas that supplies the material for Boston Whaler non-skid. They are called Gibco- Flex Mold.(817) 236-5021.If you have any knowledge of gel-coat repair it can be matched.
posted 05-18-2006 10:11 PM ET (US)
posted 05-21-2006 09:13 PM ET (US)
For small hole repairs in the "diamond style" Whaler non-skid, I used a triangular file to recreate the small diamonds. This type of non-skid is much like the checkering on a gun stock. That is, it's a series of intersecting "V" shaped grooves (three of them to be exact)in the surface of the deck. These grooves can be recreated in color matched Marinetex. I mix the Marinetex to match without any hardener in it. When I think I have it right, I spread a little on some Saran wrap and lay ot on the deck. It will be readily apprent when you have it right. Once satisfied the color is good, mix in the hardener and fill the hole. Overfill the hole slightly to allow for shrinkage, and to make sure you don't end up with a hollow.
When set, I very carefully trim the excess down to deck level, first with a sharp straight wood chisel, and finally with a good sharp scaper. The scrapers I like are made from old bandsaw blades with the teeth ground off and the resulting edge made square and sharp with a bench grinder. Use extreme care not to take off the adjacent diamond "points" with the chisel or the scraper!!
I then use a small, sharp, triangle file to cut the "V" shaped "lines" into the Marinetex, using the existing "lines" as a guide. Be careful not to go too fast and deepen the existing "lines" in the gelcoat. Cut each line completely before moving on to the next one. When all three "lines" are cut, the little diamonds should appear exacly as their neighbors.
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