210 DAUNTLESS Sacrificial Anode

[Drick]

I have 2019 210 DAUNTLESS that I bought new in Delaware in 2019. I am assuming there are zinc sacrificial anodes on a 210 DAUNLTESS.

In 2019 the 210 DAUNTLESS was stored in a dry stack.

In 2020 the 210 DAUNTLESS was kept a wet slip.

If there are zinc sacrificial anodes on a 210 DAUNLTESS, how are they replaced?

Rick

[biggiefl]

Check [the sacrificial anodes] when you pull [the 210 Dauntless] for the season.

There should be least one [sacrificial anode] from the factory on the engine.

You may want to add more if kept in a wet slip as an engine zinc does no good if engine is tilted out of the water.

Look for any corrosion on metal surfaces.

Many zincs can go multiple seasons as well. If If they are still relatively smooth with no chunks or holes in them, most likely still good.

There are sacrificial zincs and there are sacrificial aluminum anodes. Make sure you use the correct one for the water you keep the boat in, that is, fresh water or saltwater.

[Phil T]

I recommend you review the owner’s manual for your Verado engines.

[jimh]

A 210 DAUNTLESS hull is non-conductive and most often the through-hull fittings are also non-conductive, so the boat really does not have any galvanic corrosion protection for the hull.

Outboard engines are aluminum or steel and are usually protected against galvanic corrosion by less-noble metals called sacrificial anodes. The precise location of these anodes on an engine is specific to the particular engine brand, model, and horsepower.

Boats kept at marina docks with AC electrical power wiring for shore power and adjacent boats that connect to that shore power are at risk for highly accelerated galvanic corrosion due to leakage of electrical current by the AC power wiring into the water.

A good defense is to always keep the outboard engine tilted up and completely clear of the water, and don’t make any connection to shore power. This will leave just the lower part of the engine mount in the water. This area should have a sacrificial anode to protect it.

The sacrificial anodes were traditionally made of zinc, but recently mixes of other metals and alloys are used. If you replace an engine-mounted sacrificial anode use the OEM part. Don’t risk a $20,000 engine to save $5 on an aftermarket anode replacement.

[Jefecinco]

I can offer some information on the current four cylinder model. The engine has a single sacrificial anode located n the underside of the anti-ventilation plate near the trailing edge. Our Verado was on a trailered boat and consequently the anode never needed replacement.

I believe there is a removable cap above the anode. Removing the cap allows access to a machine screw that screws into the top of the anode thus securing it in place. When removing the anode it will help if the screw holding it can be left in place in the anti-ventilation plate. It can be difficult to reinsert the screw if it has been removed from the hole.

I recommend you replace the anode now if it has not been done before. I believe if the engine is tilted to the full up position it will be possible to replace the anode before removing the boat for winter storage assuming this is your practice. I would not attempt to change the anode while working while standing in the water in a marina. Several deaths have occurred when people are in the water at marinas due to the dangers of improperly installed marina wiring. If it is easier to replace the anode in the water a friendly sand bar or shallow stretch of water will make it easy. Before attempting to replace the anode review your Verado owner's manual.

[Drick]

Thank you very much for all the helpful responses. Rick