CONTINUOUSWAVE

I've been detailing, fixing and replacing items on my recently acquired 2005 170 Montauk. Now that I've got the boat in better shape, some of the more weathered items stand out as needing replacement, one being the instrument panel. It's dull, white lettering faded and a chip in the lower corner.

I've sent a photo and part number to Ultra Panel, and they'll be able to reproduce the OEM panel.


As I've begun to assess the replacement, I just noticed something odd regarding the number of CONTURA switches. The owner's manual, and parts illustration for this boat show four switches, and my boat has five switches. My existing panel doesn't seem altered and has a switch labeled "Stereo."

Oddly the boat didn't' come factory equipped with a stereo, and owner's manual and parts illustrations don't show a panel with a fifth switch and breaker for the stereo option.

Although I haven't ordered the replacement panel yet, I assume I haven't provided the right part number 1772710 for for switches and breakers.

I also find it odd that the owner's manual makes no reference to a radio option.

Is there another source to reference the correct number for this panel?

Thanks.

I did a little research on Whaler's Resources page of their website.

For 2005, Montauk 170 there are two instrument panels shown:



There are parts # 09 and #63, described as:



Note:
There have been many Montauk owners who have ordered new blank panels and customized them with new switches or even re-arranged the layout. I think your panel could be from one of those owners.

Having fabricated a few panels in my day, I would not be so concerned about buying OEM panels, given their very high cost.

Thanks Phil, this is the same illustration that I found. I assume my panel was a "one off" some how. It's OEM for certain, with that fifth gang for a stereo switch. I will photo later.

While not exactly what you are thinking, consider this.

You can use the existing panel and cover it with 3M Vinyl. Replace the switch "covers" with labels.

Several owners have "refreshed" their panel without spending the $$.

New Wire Marine sells switches and covers at reasonable prices.

https://newwiremarine.com/marine-grade-switches/

In looking around, I see Jay Heiii's 2007 Montauk 170 has the same exact panel.

See: http://continuouswave.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3981&p=22558

Hmmm, sure leads one to believe there's a product number associated with this version. The previous owner installed a stereo, possibly he went with a later model panel to accomodate it. Gonna keep checking.

The panel in question in also shown in CETACEA Page 58:


That panel also appears in an old thread at:
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum8/HTML/003464.html


Help getting a part number will be appreciated.

The part # have changed over the years.

From the thread -

"The Whaler part# for the blank panel with switches is 1848341".

The real problem with home-brewing (fabricating) a new panel on your own is the difficulty in making the precision rectangular holes for the several power switches. The switches fit into the panel with snap-in-place retainer latches, and the cut out in the panel must be very precisely made. If the fit of the switch into the rectangular opening is sloppy, the snap-in-place retainer latches won't hold well, and the switch will have some wobble.

Making your own instrument panel is much simpler if all the openings to be cut into the panel are circular. There is no simple way to make five sets of precisely cut rectangular openings of exact size and alignment by hand--unless perhaps you are very skilled.

If the existing panel is not cracked or broken, it could be refurbished. Removed everything from the panel. Lightly sand the panel, re-paint it, add stripes with appropriate narrow pinstripe tape (as used to decorate automobiles). For the legends for the switches, have a custom decal shop make up the necessary labels. Spray a clear coat onto the outward face of the panel. Reinstall all the gauges, switches, lamps, and fuses.

I believe that the wiring to the panel may be via a multi-conductor cable with a connector, so there should not be a problem to remove it from the boat for work. If the panel is wired with dedicated individual connections, you will need to label all of them and make a very accurate drawing of where they connect.

Phil T wrote:...Replace the switch "covers" with labels...New Wire Marine sells switches and covers at reasonable prices.
https://newwiremarine.com/marine-grade-switches/

I like Phil's idea. If the pre-printed switch covers are only $5, that is a bargain. It would make the refurbishment look better than new.

Also, I really like the concept of mounting the CONTURA II switches in a plastic escutcheon sub-panel. See

https://newwiremarine.com/product/middle-mounting-panel/

That would reduce the precision of any mounting hole necessary to cut into a home-brew aluminum panel.

On getting a blank plastic panel and drilling large circular holes for gauges: drilling large diameter circular holes in a thin plastic panel can be difficult and prone to damaging the plastic. If you buy an expensive blank panel, be very careful when using hole saws to make large diameter circular openings.

As a side note to your [i.e., BMAT5's] comment about a factory stereo audio amplifier option not being available: indeed there was an option for a factory installed stereo audio amplifier.

A specialized KING StarBoard mounting bracket (Callout 65) was installed behind the console door to hold the stereo audio amplifier (Callout 72). See the diagram below.



On my 170 Montauk boat there is a stereo audio amplifier installed as shown above on the console.