1982 Outrage 18 Waterline at Static Trim

[escknx]

Q1: where is the normal waterline on a c.1982 OUTRAGE 18 at the stern [in static trim to be measured from the waterline upward to the top of the gunwales]?

Q2: where is the normal waterline on a c.1982 OUTRAGE 18 at the center console [or amidship position in static trim to be measured from the waterline upward to the top of the gunwales]?


ASIDE: I have a [1982—ALWAYS USE FOUR DIGIT FOR YEAR] OUTRAGE 18. [When I remove a circular, clear, pry-out access plate that covers the fuel tank level dial gauge, I can see] wet foam.

There are no scales nearby.

I plan to estimate the moisture-added weight.

[Moderator's note: several posts related to getting clarification about certain measuring points and certain portions of the hull have been deleted and this post revised to reflect all the clarified information that was obtained.]

[jimh]

Q1: where is the normal waterline on a c.1982 OUTRAGE 18 at the stern?

The waterline at the stern in static trim should be located below the engine splash well drains. Excessive engine weight will affect the trim at the stern.

I plan to estimate the moisture-added weight.

Your plan to deduce the weight of water in the wet foam from two measurements of the water line position is going to be quite an accomplishment. Can you explain the method in detail?

[escknx]

Your plan to deduce the weight of water in the wet foam from two measurements of the water line position is going to be quite an accomplishment. Can you explain the method in detail?

I don't have a hydrostatic table for this boat, but I can approximately measure kilogram per centimeter change in midship draft. Then, if I know default values. I can see whether [the moisture-added weight] is negligible or [if the foam] is swamped and I have 500-lbs of water trapped.

[This method is] not precisely a deadweight survey but better than nothing.

[jimh]

Compute the volume of foam that is wet. Assume a partial amount of that volume is water. Compute the weight of the water in the wet foam by volume estimate times density.

The density of water is 62-lbs per cubic foot.

Let me guess some values to demonstrate what I am suggesting: From analysis of the extent of the wet foam in the fuel tank cavity, let us say there is a one-foot by one-foot by five-foot volume of wet foam, or five-cubic-feet of wet foam.

Next we make a guess about how much water is being held in the foam. Let us say that of that volume, 70-percent is trapped water. So the volume of trapped water is 3.5-cubic-feet.

The density of water is 62.4-lbs-per-cubic-foot.

The weight of the water in the foam is then 62.4-lbs-per-cubic-foot × 3.5-cubic-feet = 218.4-lbs of trapped water in the wet foam.

On your particular hull, you just need to adjust the initial volume of foam that is wet to a more appropriate estimate.

[escknx]

How can I know the volume of wet foam without cutting into fiberglass? The wet foam scattered all over the hull and I can only see the small amount on tank gauge well.

I can load the boat with several friends with known weight and see how draft changes. Even though hull shape changes I think can estimate if I need to go into the fiberglass.

I found the numerical answer: it should measure approximately 18 inches at the console and 17 3/4 inches at the front of the splash well, maybe a bit more in my case since I have 150 Yamaha.

[jimh]

How can I know the volume of wet foam without cutting into fiberglass? It scattered all over the hull and I can only see the small amount on tank gauge well.

Assume all the wet foam is in the fuel tank cavity. Compute the volume of the cavity. Compute the volume of the tank. Subtract tank volume from cavity volume to get foam volume in the fuel tank cavity.

[escknx]

I have no idea how the boat was stored over all these years. There may be wet foam inside bow cavities as well and that's a very significant amount and, looking at hull shape, [that weight] can make big impact in mid draft, if that's the case. If I'm close to 18-inches on mid I don't think I have to worry about anything

[jimh]

These numbers you have are curious. And where did those number come from?

Unless they are from a completely dry hull with an engine that matches the weight of your engine, and both boats have the exact same amount of fuel in the fuel tank and the same amount of gear aboard, I don't see how a precision to one-half-inch is justified.

[Phil T]

Let's turn this around 180 degrees.

Where is the waterline on your boat? Add some photos.

Why is this a concern?

[escknx]

And where did those number come from?

Found this topic on whalecentral. I assume half tank of gasoline fuel and a 150-HP, engine but not quite sure. I cannot find the original source.

Why is this a concern?

No clue.

I will get the boat on the water in a week. Then I will have an idea.

I saw the foam on the fuel tank near the tank level indicator as wet like it was submerged.

Also, on the dial of the fuel tank level gauge there is condensation, and the dial is hard to read.

[jimh]

Have you actually removed the deck section that covers the fuel tank cavity to assess the water content in the foam surround?

[jimh]

There may be wet foam inside bow cavities...

In the Unibond hull method of construction, there are not separate elements of the space between the outer hull part and the inner hull liner. There is just one big space. All of this space is filled with foam.

The essential element of this discussion is actually a frequently asked question:

Frequently Asked Questions
Q3: Is there water in a Unibond hull?

You may find the answers provided to be useful for your project.

[fno]

Given the number of 1980's Outrage 18's out there in the world, shouldn't the question be "is there anybody nearby to the OP who could co-operate with this quest?" The two boats could be weighed and even compared side by side in the water. Even minor differences like engine weights, number of batteries could be accounted for.

[escknx]

Have you actually removed the deck section that covers the fuel tank cavity to assess the water content in the foam surround?

No.

For now I can only observe soaked foam around that gauge through the circular deck access plate. After three days of being opened under sun, the foam has not dried one bit.

For now I'm planning to take the 1982 OUTRAGE 18 to water to observe freeboard.

Afterward I may try to find a [certified drive-on ] scale in my area.

[jimh]

After three days of being opened under sun, the foam has not dried one bit.

There should be at least two more pry-out circular deck access plates (or maybe three more) on the cockpit deck section that is over the fuel tank. You should remove all of them, and let the boat sit in open air in some place where it won't accumulate rain water or have a heavy dew fall every morning.

My Boston Whaler 22-foot hull has similar construction, fuel tank, and access plates. Whenever the boat will be sitting unused for a long time and stored indoors, l remove the pry-out access plates to let the top of the fuel tank have plenty of air.

The foam on my boat might on rare occasions show a slight dampness if it has been sitting outdoors. I think the dampness comes about from having warm moist air get into the fuel tank compartment, then the temperature drops significantly overnight and the water vapor condenses out. If I see that, I just remove the pry-out plates and let the boat air out for an hour or two. Your boat may have more water in the foam and may need much longer exposure to air to get the water to evaporate. Also, if your boat has saltwater in the foam, it will not evaporate nearly as fast as freshwater.

I am in a northern location where we might have 75-degree daytime temperature and then 50-degree overnight low and a very heavy dew in the morning.

[Phil T]

Your deduction of a water problem is based on faulty assumptions.

Many Outrage 18's have a sheet of foam sitting on the top of the tank from the factory. Moisture in the cavity sits on top of the sheet and clouds the inspection cover/fuel gauge clear cover.

Many owners, during their inspection of the hoses and removal of the fuel tank cover, remove and discard this foam sheet as it has no value or benefit.

The fuel tank sits in a fully gelcoated cavity so any water seen via the inspection port is not in the hull and will evaporate if the inspection covers are left open.

Inspect the drain tube from the bilge interior wall into the fuel tank cavity to ensure it is not clogged.

As of yet there is no cause for concern.

Identify the water level on the outside of the transom with no one in the boat. Measure the distance to the splashwell drains, noting if the water is above or below, and report back.

[escknx]

I had the 1982 OUTRAGE 18 boat with 40-gallons of fuel and a Yamaha 150-HP two-stroke-power-cycle engine on the water for the first time, and, to my eye, everything seemed fine.

Transom freeboard = 20-inches
Transom splash well = bottom of drain was just above the static trim waterline

Fig. 1. Splashwell drains relative to static waterline.

splahswellDrain_.jpg (36.06 KiB) Viewed 3130 times

FIg. 2. Waterline at static trim.

staticTrim_.jpg (46.08 KiB) Viewed 3130 times

[jimh]

Figure 1 shows the engine splash well drains right where they should be. They are acting as drains, and NOT letting seawater INTO the splash well but letting water from the boat drain OUT to the sea.

[Phil T]

Go use your fabulous boat and stop wasting our time.

[escknx]

Go use your fabulous boat and stop wasting our time.

Sure.

My concerns are based on the price I got [the OUTRAGE 18]--it was less than an old used jet skim--and the fact that I found water under the deck access plates.

hanks for help.

[jimh]

Those upholstered red seat cushions are a bit unusual. On the next refit you might think about toning them down a bit.

Also, this OUTRAGE 18 seems to have no railings on the gunwales. Maybe that was an option in 1982, but most OUTRAGE 18 boats I have seen had side railings or a bow railing or both. This one looks a bit naked without any railings. Also, where are the teak gunwales?

[escknx]

Also, this OUTRAGE 18 seems to have no railings on the gunwales.

Unfortunately, both [the bow railings and the] gunwales railings--and even bow [sampson post]— were removed by one of the previous owners.

I tried to find original railings, but I had no luck.

I tried to contact CMI Marine Products, but they've never replied.

The old fastener holes [from the railing stanchion bases] are filled with some grey Bondo-like stuff.

[The teak] gunwales were painted white--and a white color of significantly lighter hue than the rest of original tan or grey gelcoat

[This 1982 OUTRAGE 18 boat] has lots of marks, scuffs and deep scratches all along a hull. I will have boat shop to do a complete refinish with fresh off-white gel coat on all surfaces.

Since yhr gunwales are already painted I'm thinking about covering them with some structural fiberglass compound to raise them a bit and make them level--or I may leave them as is.

I got found an original bow mooring post and center console windshield. I probably will install some aftermarket simple stainless steel grab railings after the paint job is done.


This 1982 OUTRAGE 18 boat and engine run excellently. I plan to keep this boat for a while. I want to make the OUTRAGE 18 look great again, but this time in all white.

[jimh]

I also notice in Figure 2 that the teak doors on the center console have been painted. Removing the paint from the fine teak underneath would be a chore.

[escknx]

I also notice in Figure 2 that the teak doors on the center console have been painted.

I do not mind [the teak cabinet doors] being [painted] white. I quite like [the apperance of the teak console doors] this way. But the [painted teak doors] need to be re-painted professionally.