1972 SPORT 13 Water In Hull, Cost of Navigation Lamp

[ALI-OOP]

I just acquired a 1972 SPORT 13 (with a Yamaha 40-HP two-stroke-power-cycle engine in fair condition) that needs some extensive work

How prone are these hulls to retaining moisture in the foam?

Obviously over the course of 50 years there has been a hole drilled then filled and abandoned—I'm sure leaking.

I plan to repair and refinish the ntire hull. I do not know if there is a process to dry out [ Boston Whaler Unibond hull] before such an undertaking takes place.

This will not be a historically correct restoration, just a really well done refit and refinish using the best materials available.

Some parts for a Boston Whaler can get pricey. I've been going back and forth in my head on some choices.

This SPORT 13 needs an all-round lamp, and there are not a lot of exact replacements on the retail market. Specialty Marine offers a "better than original one" for close to $200

Is a $200 Specialty Marine All-round lamp worth $200?

The Specialty Marine all-round lamp is made with 316 stainless steel and has LED bulb. I probably will buy it because it will match the base., which I'd rather not replace.

Give me other good resources out there.

I've been looking.

I'll wait to ask more questions

Thanks for looking

Tony G

[jimh]

Concern about water in a Unibond hull is a frequently asked question.

Please see the answer in the FAQ.

Is There Water in my Hull?
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q3

I suggest you read all the FAQ answers, as these well-researched articles may be cogent to your project.

[jimh]

The usual concern with navigation lighting on a Boston Whaler is for the sidelights, both the unique combined sidelight lamp with a chock base and the individual sidelight lamps with Marinium covers.

The pole lamp for the all-round light was not particularly unique, other than the mounting method. If you have the original mounting parts, including the knurled nut with the split washer, you can fit a new pole and lamp easily, as long as the diameter of the tube that forms the pole is the correct size.

As for use of Light Emitting Diodes or LED bulbs, that is a ho-hum topic for me. On my 1990 Boston Whaler the original incandescent lightbulbs are still working.

How many hours per year are you planning on operating a 13-foot skiff underway in darkness?

[ALI-OOP]

Hi Jim, Thanks for the reply.

I've seen the bow light/chock thing. On this hull it's been swapped out for a plastic fixture. I'll probably opt for one of those as well.

Re night operation: I'd say half the hours will be after dusk. I plan on using the boat as a bay runabout and have a Island with a ton of private beaches so days on the spit won't end early.

Someone swapped out the stainless pole with an aluminum one. It is missing the lens, broken at the top of the knurled nut, and frozen in the base.

Thank you

P.S I'm a multi boat owner; we have a mid size sterndrive and a twin diesel sportfish

I have done a ton of Awlgrip, teak, specialize restorations

[biggiefl]

72 is basically a one year model(some late 71's & possibly a few early 73's) As it is pretty much the only blue hulled 13 with a smirk and new style transom but still a 15"shaft. Read up on the link Jim gave you but easiest way to find out if you need to scrap it or restore is to lift the boat while on the trailer and see if waterlogged. Having a few pounds of water logged foam in a 47yr old boat is expected and won't be a problem. I have found nice bow chocks(repros) on E-bay for around $150 and you can find used ones too as many like the fresh look of the SS and upgrade so to speak. I have done this on quite a few as the plating was worn etc. If you are not doing a bristol resto, maybe a used one is a good option.