I know this has been covered in The Old Forum, however I am unable to locate the pertinent discussions, so please bear with me. When I installed new transducers in the transom last September, the drilling debris included damp wood. I needed to use the boat. I removed and recaulked below the waterline fittings.
Now, I have bought the boat to Tucson for the winter hoping the dry hot Arizona desert air would help to dry out the transom. I have removed the below water fittings on the transom and drilled out the holes. I removed the two back wash drains; they were both wet, and brown thick stuff drooled out of the penetrations (see photo).
I will be removing the bilge drain and the forward compartment drain. I read that I may drill 1/4-inch holes in the hull and transom below the water line to help dry out the transom. There is no bulging or warping of the fiberglass or gelcoat skin on the boat, the motor is solid, and when I knock on the hull there is no pronounced dullness.
Would appreciate thoughts on the approach, where to drill, spacing, any additives to assist the dry out process, and words of wisdom and experience. Thanks so Much, Melinda
Splash Well Drain from 1994 Montauk
Re: Splash Well Drain from 1994 Montauk
I suspect that the "brown thick stuff" that you say "drooled out of the penetrations" in the transom drain holes is probably some uncured resin mixed with some rotting wood.
I think the best test of the strength of the transom and hull is done as follows:
--tilt up the outboard so the outboard forms a 45-degree angle to the transom
--grab the outboard at the skeg, and try to rock the outboard on the transom
--if the tilt-trim system is in good repair, the outboard should be very solild, and the rocking will impart stress onto the transom
--look for any sign of movement in the transom
Now I don't mean to get some 250-lbs middle-linebacker type to heave on the skeg as hard as he can. Just use the skeg of the outboard as a lever to put some force on the transom. If the transom stays solid, does not yield easily--best if it does not yield at all--then the test has shown the transom has retained good strength.
If your boat passes the test, then you can relax a bit about the integrity of the transom. There is probably a little wet wood in all 21-year-old Boston Whaler boat transoms.
Your plan to let the boat air-out in hot Arizona sun all winter is a good one.
I think the best test of the strength of the transom and hull is done as follows:
--tilt up the outboard so the outboard forms a 45-degree angle to the transom
--grab the outboard at the skeg, and try to rock the outboard on the transom
--if the tilt-trim system is in good repair, the outboard should be very solild, and the rocking will impart stress onto the transom
--look for any sign of movement in the transom
Now I don't mean to get some 250-lbs middle-linebacker type to heave on the skeg as hard as he can. Just use the skeg of the outboard as a lever to put some force on the transom. If the transom stays solid, does not yield easily--best if it does not yield at all--then the test has shown the transom has retained good strength.
If your boat passes the test, then you can relax a bit about the integrity of the transom. There is probably a little wet wood in all 21-year-old Boston Whaler boat transoms.
Your plan to let the boat air-out in hot Arizona sun all winter is a good one.
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Re: Splash Well Drain from 1994 Montauk
I have a 1978 Boston Whaler SPORT with the same drain problems, however the drain tubes are brass and have corroded. How do I remove them and replace them? Or, should I take it to someone to fix?
New owner of an old boat!!!
Re: Splash Well Drain from 1994 Montauk
Questions about the repair or replacement of drain tubes and the procedures used are frequently asked questions. Please read the answers in the FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS or FAQ section of the website. The FAQ is part of the REFERENCE section, which contains many well-written and well-researched articles. See the FAQ at
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/
For the drain question specifically, see
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q12
For a listing of the contents of the REFERENCE section see
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/
You will find that there is a great deal of information on the website that is outside of the discussion forum. A good place to start looking for information is at the top of the Boston Whaler section. See
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/
For the drain question specifically, see
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q12
For a listing of the contents of the REFERENCE section see
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/
You will find that there is a great deal of information on the website that is outside of the discussion forum. A good place to start looking for information is at the top of the Boston Whaler section. See
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/
Re: Splash Well Drain from 1994 Montauk
Thank you Jim. Will have my 187-lbs husband do the testing. Will ferret out the pertinent discussions per your suggestion. Was distressed when website was down. Great to have it up and running. M
Re: Splash Well Drain from 1994 Montauk
If you are interested in speeding up the drying process, add some heat. One method of doing this is placing an electric halogen work lamp near the removed transom drains. Carefully monitor to ensure the lamp is not too close to the transom. Bob
Re: Splash Well Drain from 1994 Montauk
Thanks for the insight. Removed the bilge drain, water dripping out...bilge area was dry. Drilled holes in hull below drain, water dripped out. Will let it dry out. Husband tried to move the motor per Jim's suggestion. Rock solid. Thanks again. Boat is in a storage yard, unfortunately no electricity.