Mechanical Steering Cable Repair

[Bob G]

[To remedy hard steering,] the boatyard wants me to replace the steering cable from helm to engine for $500. The boat is [identified only by the year] 1989. Any advice?

[Acseatsri]

You can buy a Teleflex NFB (no feed back) cable and helm for about $200. It should be an easy DIY repair, hardest part of the job possibly getting the old cable out of the tilt tube. It seems steep to me for a couple hours labor. I have to assume they checked the cable and its not the actual pivot on the motor that's binding.

[floater]

I had the same concern on my Revenge 20 WT. For $850 I got a hydraulic set up and never looked back. Very easy to install and bleed yourself. You can turn my 200-HP two stroke with one finger now.

[Dutchman]

For your Super Sport 15 with 70 HP engine, I would not use a hydraulic system as it would be [excessive]. As mentioned, a complete NFB system is less than $200, and just a new cable of 12-feet or less can be had for $40. Please look into doing it yourself as $500 is too much.

[Phil T]

For future readers:

--GREASE the cable;

--buy a Steersman nut (that has a grease fitting) and replace the existing nut that does not; and

--add marine grease every fall.

[Binkster]

Maybe the marina found your whole steering system is shot, hence there high estimate. Its not much more work top replace the whole thing, do it yourself for around $200.

rich

[flymo]

Bob, from reading your other posts, it sounds like you have a 15 Super Sport Limited. As others have said, $500 is insanely high. A full replacement system is no more than $200 and it should take maybe 2 hours labor tops. I'd run away from that marina - seems like they're really looking to rip you off.

Tim

[Acseatsri]

I wouldn't bother to try just replacing the cable. You got your money's worth out of it for being 25 years old. And if there is a problem with the helm, it may ruin the new cable if it's in bad shape.

[Jefecinco]

Monday I took my wife's 1981 13 Sport to a shop for an annual engine service. I also asked them to look into the possible need to replace the steering helm and cable. The following day I had a call from the shop recommending against the steering system replacement. The shop owner said they had power brush cleaned the tilt tube and lubricated the steering system as well as all the lube points on the engine. He said the steering system was now able to be turned from the left to right limits with a finger.

[macfam]

Listen to Phil T!
Great advice, never have problems again.

[jimh]

Regarding the advice to employ an aftermarket fitting to replace the OEM fitting on the outboard engine to create a seal at the exit of the steering ram from the tilt tube, and the specific recommendation to use the Steersman Steering Guard or what is often called a "Steersman nut", I have a few comments to add.

I took this advice many years ago and bought a Steersman Steering Guard. I have a Steersman Steering Guard installed on my present boat. I am not impressed with the Steersman Steering Guard because it does not do an effective job at wiping off the grease from the steering actuator ram that protrudes from the Steering Guard. It leaves grease on the steering actuator rod, and when seawater splashes on the rod, it washes off the grease, which then drips off onto the transom. I am always wiping grease off the actuator rod and cleaning up the drippings from the transom.

Thinking the cause of the poor seal was obviously a worn out O-ring, I replaced the O-ring. I got the replacement from a hardware store. It was not effective at containing the grease. Thinking the O-ring I used was perhaps unsuitable, I wrote to Steersman about the problem. They sent me a replacement O-ring. I installed the OEM replacement O-ring. The replacement O-ring was not any better in wiping the grease from the actuator rod, and the staining of the transom continued. I have learned to live with this, and I try to be diligent in keeping the transom clean and wiping off excessive grease from the actuator rod that has escaped through the Steersman Steering Guard.

The failure of the Steersman Steering Guard may be related to the grease that is used. I have been using the Evinrude brand Triple-Guard grease. This is a very sticky grease compound. It really adheres to whatever it touches--including you, of course. I don't think the Steersman Steering Guard O-ring can effectively wipe off this grease as the steering actuator rod passes in and out of the seal. The Steersman website mentions a type of grease they prefer in their FAQ. The are somewhat ambivalent about the grease selection, suggested it is a matter of personal preference.

[Dutchman]

Jim--I have the same problem without the Steersman nut.

I have a standard NFB Teleflex system on my little Montauk and use the Mercury Brand steering grease (Quicksilver 2-4-C). Always dealing with grease on the ram or in the bottom of my little bilge and on the insides of my transom, I thought this was normal for an outboard as I hadn't looked at a steering wheel controlled outboard in 20 years because all my recent boats were inboards with rudders with exception of the tiller-steered outboards engines on several dinghies.