[A Boston Whaler c.1990 OUTRAGE boat of unspecified length] has some really old bottom paint. I have not done anything with [the bottom paint] since the boat has been on a trailer for the last 10 years.
[The boat is now] in my driveway and is parked nose-down for the first time. Yesterday [July 16, 2018] I noticed salt in a couple of spots where the bottom paint is cracked, and I see the gel coat is cracked underneath. This morning [July 17, 2018] after a cool night, I see what looks like very slow seeping is going on.
I have read about getting used to water in Boston Whaler boats and about foam problems.
[Give me] advice on going forward.
Is [the appearance of water seeping from the hull] simply a a channel out of the gel coat cracks?
[Is the proper repair to use a product called] Marinetex and gelcoat the spots?
Or, do I need to take in [the hull] to a professional?
Do I need to start thinking about drilling holes?
The [hull] bottom feels solid with no flex.
[The boat is identified as a] 1990's era OUTRAGE.
Thanks for any advice.
Water in Hull
Water in Hull
- Attachments
-
- IMG_20180717_071807.jpg (220.94 KiB) Viewed 5110 times
-
- IMG_20180717_071840.jpg (199.25 KiB) Viewed 5110 times
-
- IMG_20180716_192746.jpg (203.14 KiB) Viewed 5110 times
Re: Outrage water in hull
You need to start by grinding that section to see how extensive the the cracking is. Make sure you use protective gear while grinding.
Re: Outrage water in hull
[T]hanks.[G]rinding it down will be the first step. [O]nce [I] have done that, [I] can post more pictures as I likely won't know what [I]'m looking at
Re: Outrage water in hull
Go easy with the grinder.
The fiberglass is thin, maybe 1/8 - 1/4" thick then foam.
The fiberglass is thin, maybe 1/8 - 1/4" thick then foam.
1992 Outrage 17
2019 E-TEC 90
2018 LoadRite 18280096VT
Member since 2003
2019 E-TEC 90
2018 LoadRite 18280096VT
Member since 2003
Re: Outrage water in hull
[Two months later]
This type of thing happens. Sand off all of the bottom paint in those areas and look for hidden damage.
A previous owner could have just painted over a repair. Your cracks are long and need to be ground out and chamfered all the way around the edges to expose a lot of surface area for adhesion. Repair should be made with West System epoxy and [fiberglass] cloth. Cut out pieces first so you have a bunch to start laying up the pieces into the ground out section. Do a couple of layers and let it cure. Clean up with MEK or Acetone and do it again until you have enough build up to sand flat.
I imagine there has been a lot of water that has made it through those cracks over time.
This type of thing happens. Sand off all of the bottom paint in those areas and look for hidden damage.
A previous owner could have just painted over a repair. Your cracks are long and need to be ground out and chamfered all the way around the edges to expose a lot of surface area for adhesion. Repair should be made with West System epoxy and [fiberglass] cloth. Cut out pieces first so you have a bunch to start laying up the pieces into the ground out section. Do a couple of layers and let it cure. Clean up with MEK or Acetone and do it again until you have enough build up to sand flat.
I imagine there has been a lot of water that has made it through those cracks over time.
Re: Water in Hull
The OP has not been active on the forum for two months.
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2018 10:02 am
Re: Water in Hull
I had water in the hull from several crashes from the previous owners. They were severe enough that glassing the outside would not be structurally sound. I went through the deck, removed the foam above the crashes and did the glass work. When complete the 8" hole in the deck was capped with a flush deck plate. The hull is now stronger than when it was new. I used biaxial fiberglass and a premium vinyl ester resin that is more flexible, stronger, and adheres better than the original boat resin.
- Attachments
-
- exterior whaler.jpg (68.94 KiB) Viewed 4783 times