I finally decided to purchase the Raymarine EV-100 Autopilot which I will be installing next week on my 190 Montauk.
I did have the old Raymarine S-1000 Autopilot installed in my boat and it worked well for 8 years. I will do the install
myself as I did with the S-1000, my only hesitation is when I change over the hydraulic hoses from the old 1000 to the
new EV-100. What would be the best way to accomplish this with minimal hydraulic oil loss and mess.
I was told that I can use the same fittings from the S-1000 to the EV-100. Any help is appreciated!
Thanks,
Fred
Hydraulic Steering: Conserving Fluid During Changes
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- Posts: 97
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 3:51 pm
Re: Hydraulic Steering: Conserving Fluid During Changes
To minimize lost hydraulic fluid, drain all hydraulic fluid from the system before beginning the installation of the new hydraulic component. Save all the old hydraulic fluid. Re-use the old hydraulic fluid but filter it before re-installing the fluid in the system.
Or, abandon all the old hydraulic fluid and re-fill the new system with new hydraulic fluid.
Or, abandon all the old hydraulic fluid and re-fill the new system with new hydraulic fluid.
Re: Hydraulic Steering: Conserving Fluid During Changes
Fred - before beginning the install turn the engine from side to side while observing the steering cylinder. That should give you a good idea of the position with the most fluid in the cylinder. Or, observe the fluid reservoir while turning the engine from side to side and see if the level is lower at one position. Again, when the reservoir has the least fluid the cylinder should have the most fluid.
Another possible solution would be to slip some plastic tubing over the bleeder valves and pump out as much fluid as possible into a container by turning the wheel from side to side. That should remove much of the fluid.
Another possible solution would be to slip some plastic tubing over the bleeder valves and pump out as much fluid as possible into a container by turning the wheel from side to side. That should remove much of the fluid.
Butch
Re: Hydraulic Steering: Conserving Fluid During Changes
I recently rebuilt a SEASTAR helm. I wanted to save the hydraulic fluid, but it was in very poor condition and was probably 25-years-old.
Instead of SEASTAR brand fluid I bought 09-27000 MIL-H-5606A HYDRAULIC FLUID from http://aircraftspruce.com. It has themilitary-specification that SEASTAR says can be used as a substitute. A quart cost $9. I have not given it a long term test, but so far so good.
Instead of SEASTAR brand fluid I bought 09-27000 MIL-H-5606A HYDRAULIC FLUID from http://aircraftspruce.com. It has themilitary-specification that SEASTAR says can be used as a substitute. A quart cost $9. I have not given it a long term test, but so far so good.
Re: Hydraulic Steering: Conserving Fluid During Changes
jcush87 wrote:I recently rebuilt a SEASTAR helm.
ASIDE: what repairs did you make and what replacement parts did you use in the rebuilding of the SEASTAR helm? Usually the only repair parts are the front shaft seal.
Re: Hydraulic Steering: Conserving Fluid During Changes
I've rebuilt several SeaStar helms and while they should stay clean on the inside, I've found some to have dirty fluid and contamination in the helm unit. Complete disassembly and cleaning helps and it's not a bad idea to replace the check valves if they are hanging up. There are places that will rebuild your help for around $180.
https://www.seatechmarineproducts.com/seastar-hydraulic-boat-helm-pump-rebuild.html
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https://www.seatechmarineproducts.com/seastar-hydraulic-boat-helm-pump-rebuild.html
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Re: Hydraulic Steering: Conserving Fluid During Changes
This is what I installed
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RRTKM2/re ... UTF8&psc=1
Jimh, Basically disassembly, cleaning, and installing new orings. Some disassembly was tough and a few parts needed some heat to remove due to my unit being pretty darn old. I also used a scrub pad to get rid of any of the light corrosion on the internal cylinders.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RRTKM2/re ... UTF8&psc=1
Jimh, Basically disassembly, cleaning, and installing new orings. Some disassembly was tough and a few parts needed some heat to remove due to my unit being pretty darn old. I also used a scrub pad to get rid of any of the light corrosion on the internal cylinders.
.