Sport 13 Now Back on the Water
Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 9:35 pm
I acquired my 1982 Sport 13 back in 1987. It had a Johnson 35-HP with manual tilt and a 13-pitch propeller. I was using it on lakes in the Dallas area (at 600-feet elevation), and--on a good day--it might get all the way up to 26-MPH. It also took a while to get on plane.
I moved to Colorado in 1996, refinished the wood with fairing compound and brightwork paint in about 2000, and got so busy at work that I really wasn't using it. I finally ended up storing it, literally, in a barn yard in about 2005, and covered it over with a tarp.
Then I retired.
On about Labor Day, I went out to take a look at the boat and to figure out how to remove it from the barnyard which was about to be occupied by a horse. The hull was dirty, but sound (much to my wife's surprise--she thought it was going to be fully trashed). The wood, which was in rough shape before it was painted, was in even rougher shape. The trailer was sound, with grease in the hubs/ (Bearing Buddies do work.) The tires were flat and sunk into the clay up to the bottom of the rims.
About the tires: In about 2003, I had purchased some pre-mounted Carlisle tires (4.80 x 12) on painted rims. They didn't have many miles on them and actually looked to be in reasonable shape with no cracking of the sidewalls. Since I figured I had nothing to lose, I got my handy dandy little hand-held cordless Ryobi air pump and pumped up the tires to 50-PSI. To my great surprise, they stayed up for the 12 miles back to my garage. They are still up and holding air! This is significant since I pulled the trailer from the North Denver Metro area to the South Denver Metro area to get re-engined, and then up about 100 miles into the mountains to Granby where the boat has a nice garage all of its own.
Since all of the pieces were basically sound, I decided to do some things, new interior and new engine, that I have been thinking about for a couple of decades.
Before getting it re-powered, I had to do a bit of work. I replaced all of the wood except the backrest (it has a standard Sport interior with a Sourpuss style backrest rail). I made two replacement side rails out of teak back in the time frame when I painted the boat. I didn't use them then, and had put them up into some flat dry storage. I finished the siderails out with Watco Teak Oil, cut the slot for the steering cable, and put them into service. I purchased the thwart seats (seconds), side console, and front hatch from Specialty Marine. The varnish is a bit thin on the front of the console, and the front hatch is a little warped. I evened out the warp with hatch cover tape, and also used the tape on the side rails (above) and hull (below) to hold the seats in place. It is a huge improvement over what it had. The other original items I used are the blue seat and backrest covers, the front hatch hardware (the bungee cord dates from about 2000, but it works), the side rails, battery box,the steering wheel, and the piece of teak (or mahogany) for the hub of the steering wheel.
The mechanical parts are all new: steering gear (and bezel), control box, gel-pad battery (much lighter), battery cover, engine, fishfinder (Hummingbird 788 CI), fuel line, and a 14-gallon Moeller fuel tank mounted under the front seat.
So, it is almost a brand new boat (except for the hull and other pieces) with a brand new engine.
After agonizing for a couple months, and going to the Denver Boat show and talking with dealers, I finally decide to re-power with the Mercury [40-HP] three-cylinder FOURSTROKE with a four-blade 11-pitch propeller with electric tilt and trim. The engine is heavier than the old Johnson, but with the lighter battery and fuel tank forward, the boat sits about the same at the dock.
The propeller choice probably sounds pretty odd to most of you. But, I set up the boat to use on Lake Granby which is 8,000-feet above sea level. I also wanted the boat to get up on plane quickly. It is basically my fishing platform (for lake trout) and will likely see some use for sight seeing, joy rides, tube pulling, bird watching (for osprey and bald eagles), and other idle pursuits. Lake Granby not large (6000-acres and is the third largest lake in Colorado) but it is over 200-feet deep. it has several bays and the Colorado River inlet. I don't need a lot of speed to get places.
The choice was driven by my performance baseline with the 1982 Johnson 35-HP. At 600-feet above sea level with a 13-pitch propeller, the boat could get up to about 26-MPH and would take five or six boat lengths to get on plane--not spectacular. At 5,000-feet above sea level (Denver), I had to drop down to an 11-pitch propeller, and it would top out at an impressive 21-MPH. After being re-jetted for the altitude. at Steamboat Springs (about 8,500-feet above sea level), I had to drop down to a 9-pitch propeller, and when the boat finally decided to get on a plane, would make it up to 19-MPH or so. In short, it was pretty much a dog.
There is no comparison in the performance. I did not put a tachometer on the boat, so I have report performance in GPS speed-over-ground readings. With the Mercury 40-HP and four-blade 11-pitch propeller, the boat will get up on plane in about one boat length. It now tops out at 26-MPH and will hold plane down to 12-MPH or so. The boat cruises very comfortably in the 21 to 24-MPH range. The electric tilt and trim has made a world of difference. If you have always had power trim, you likely won't appreciate how much difference it makes. The boat is now much more comfortable--being able to trim out the porpoising is a huge plus--and the trim tuning makes about 2-MPH difference in the top end. Now, for those of you with larger boats, 26-MPH doesn't seem like much. But when the chop is nearly as high as the gunwale, it seems a whole lot faster. I am curious about how the boat would perform down closer to sea level with a 15-pitch propeller, but I really don't want to pull it that far just to find out.
I am still sorting out the SONAR. To get the transducer out of the propeller turbulence, I mounted it well to starboard under the serial number plate. It may be a bit low (at the upward point of adjustment), but moving it will have to wait until winter or next spring.
More immediately, I need to sort out the trim tab. Right now the trim tab is set in a neutral position, and the boat is pulling a bit to the right. I need to figure out how to set it so that it will track straight when I am hands off the wheel. The pull to the right may be due in part to the drag from the transducer. Sorting the trim out will be basically trial and error, but if anyone has any advice on how to get started, I would appreciate it.
Thanks to all of you, especially Jimh and Tom Clark, for all of your help through the years. I greatly appreciate it.
Now, if I can just figure out how to catch a lake trout in 70 or 100-feet of water.
I moved to Colorado in 1996, refinished the wood with fairing compound and brightwork paint in about 2000, and got so busy at work that I really wasn't using it. I finally ended up storing it, literally, in a barn yard in about 2005, and covered it over with a tarp.
Then I retired.
On about Labor Day, I went out to take a look at the boat and to figure out how to remove it from the barnyard which was about to be occupied by a horse. The hull was dirty, but sound (much to my wife's surprise--she thought it was going to be fully trashed). The wood, which was in rough shape before it was painted, was in even rougher shape. The trailer was sound, with grease in the hubs/ (Bearing Buddies do work.) The tires were flat and sunk into the clay up to the bottom of the rims.
About the tires: In about 2003, I had purchased some pre-mounted Carlisle tires (4.80 x 12) on painted rims. They didn't have many miles on them and actually looked to be in reasonable shape with no cracking of the sidewalls. Since I figured I had nothing to lose, I got my handy dandy little hand-held cordless Ryobi air pump and pumped up the tires to 50-PSI. To my great surprise, they stayed up for the 12 miles back to my garage. They are still up and holding air! This is significant since I pulled the trailer from the North Denver Metro area to the South Denver Metro area to get re-engined, and then up about 100 miles into the mountains to Granby where the boat has a nice garage all of its own.
Since all of the pieces were basically sound, I decided to do some things, new interior and new engine, that I have been thinking about for a couple of decades.
Before getting it re-powered, I had to do a bit of work. I replaced all of the wood except the backrest (it has a standard Sport interior with a Sourpuss style backrest rail). I made two replacement side rails out of teak back in the time frame when I painted the boat. I didn't use them then, and had put them up into some flat dry storage. I finished the siderails out with Watco Teak Oil, cut the slot for the steering cable, and put them into service. I purchased the thwart seats (seconds), side console, and front hatch from Specialty Marine. The varnish is a bit thin on the front of the console, and the front hatch is a little warped. I evened out the warp with hatch cover tape, and also used the tape on the side rails (above) and hull (below) to hold the seats in place. It is a huge improvement over what it had. The other original items I used are the blue seat and backrest covers, the front hatch hardware (the bungee cord dates from about 2000, but it works), the side rails, battery box,the steering wheel, and the piece of teak (or mahogany) for the hub of the steering wheel.
The mechanical parts are all new: steering gear (and bezel), control box, gel-pad battery (much lighter), battery cover, engine, fishfinder (Hummingbird 788 CI), fuel line, and a 14-gallon Moeller fuel tank mounted under the front seat.
So, it is almost a brand new boat (except for the hull and other pieces) with a brand new engine.
After agonizing for a couple months, and going to the Denver Boat show and talking with dealers, I finally decide to re-power with the Mercury [40-HP] three-cylinder FOURSTROKE with a four-blade 11-pitch propeller with electric tilt and trim. The engine is heavier than the old Johnson, but with the lighter battery and fuel tank forward, the boat sits about the same at the dock.
The propeller choice probably sounds pretty odd to most of you. But, I set up the boat to use on Lake Granby which is 8,000-feet above sea level. I also wanted the boat to get up on plane quickly. It is basically my fishing platform (for lake trout) and will likely see some use for sight seeing, joy rides, tube pulling, bird watching (for osprey and bald eagles), and other idle pursuits. Lake Granby not large (6000-acres and is the third largest lake in Colorado) but it is over 200-feet deep. it has several bays and the Colorado River inlet. I don't need a lot of speed to get places.
The choice was driven by my performance baseline with the 1982 Johnson 35-HP. At 600-feet above sea level with a 13-pitch propeller, the boat could get up to about 26-MPH and would take five or six boat lengths to get on plane--not spectacular. At 5,000-feet above sea level (Denver), I had to drop down to an 11-pitch propeller, and it would top out at an impressive 21-MPH. After being re-jetted for the altitude. at Steamboat Springs (about 8,500-feet above sea level), I had to drop down to a 9-pitch propeller, and when the boat finally decided to get on a plane, would make it up to 19-MPH or so. In short, it was pretty much a dog.
There is no comparison in the performance. I did not put a tachometer on the boat, so I have report performance in GPS speed-over-ground readings. With the Mercury 40-HP and four-blade 11-pitch propeller, the boat will get up on plane in about one boat length. It now tops out at 26-MPH and will hold plane down to 12-MPH or so. The boat cruises very comfortably in the 21 to 24-MPH range. The electric tilt and trim has made a world of difference. If you have always had power trim, you likely won't appreciate how much difference it makes. The boat is now much more comfortable--being able to trim out the porpoising is a huge plus--and the trim tuning makes about 2-MPH difference in the top end. Now, for those of you with larger boats, 26-MPH doesn't seem like much. But when the chop is nearly as high as the gunwale, it seems a whole lot faster. I am curious about how the boat would perform down closer to sea level with a 15-pitch propeller, but I really don't want to pull it that far just to find out.
I am still sorting out the SONAR. To get the transducer out of the propeller turbulence, I mounted it well to starboard under the serial number plate. It may be a bit low (at the upward point of adjustment), but moving it will have to wait until winter or next spring.
More immediately, I need to sort out the trim tab. Right now the trim tab is set in a neutral position, and the boat is pulling a bit to the right. I need to figure out how to set it so that it will track straight when I am hands off the wheel. The pull to the right may be due in part to the drag from the transducer. Sorting the trim out will be basically trial and error, but if anyone has any advice on how to get started, I would appreciate it.
Thanks to all of you, especially Jimh and Tom Clark, for all of your help through the years. I greatly appreciate it.
Now, if I can just figure out how to catch a lake trout in 70 or 100-feet of water.