1978 Outrage V-20 Bow Bench and Storage Box

[omnizzle]

Hi everyone. I bought a 1978 V-20 Outrage a little over a year ago and am now working on making some upgrades and improvements after a season of fishing. Specifically I am looking at improving my seating and storage options.

Looking at the photos on the boat's reference page on Continuous Wave, it looks like there were some optional bow steps and storage locker that my boat does not have. I've done some comprehensive searching and I can't find too much information online about the steps.



Ideally I would just buy these, but since that doesn't seem possible I want to try to make them. My plan is to build the frame out of plywood, fiberglass over it, paint, then screw it down into the bow fiberglass. I'd mirror the bench on the other side as well. Here's a sketch:



Is there a better way to attach the bench to the boat? Would it be better to do fiberglass tabbing and actually bond in the bench into the bow?

[Dutchman]

Have you contacted Boston Whaler customer support regarding that option as they might be willing to get you a drawing of how it was installed (if it was a factory option)

[omnizzle]

Good idea. I'll try that now and see if they reply.

Does customer support usually give out technical data and info about older boats?

[jimh]

The boat shown in the image, as I recall, was an early model V-20. The added-on storage boxes were used from the introduction of the OUTRAGE V-20. I believe that in later models, then called just OUTRAGE 20 boats, sometime after c.1986, the mold for the deck cap was changed in the foredeck area. Instead of added-on storage boxes, I believe that some smaller steps were added to the mold and became an integral part of the cockpit deck.

OMNI'--your sketch is a very nice drawing.

Re Boston Whaler customer support: they are a great help with older boat information, and generally share anything they have on hand still. I would be surprised if they had any construction drawings from c.1975 still around. But some of the the guys working in customer support are very long-time employees with very good memories.

[omnizzle]

Boston Whaler customer support got back to me very quickly and gave be an exploded view drawing of how they attached the bow locker. It looks like they have wooden cleats that screw into the fiberglass which the bow lockers are then attached to.

[jimh]

Wow--that is really a great response. Boston Whaler comes through, again.

[JaySul]

Sorry to respond so late but just saw your post regarding the bow seats on a 1978 V-20. I have that very boat with the seats and would be happy to forward photos, measurements or information on how they are attached.
Good Luck.
Jay

[Phil T]

Jay -

Can you forward to me as well. Would like to add them to the repository for future use.

[omnizzle]

Sorry to respond so late but just saw your post regarding the bow seats on a 1978 V-20. I have that very boat with the seats and would be happy to forward photos, measurements or information on how they are attached.
Good Luck.
Jay

Thanks JaySul! I'm actually almost done making them already, but I very much appreciate the offer.

What material are the cleats that the boxes attach to?

I am assuming teak or mahogany, but if you knew that would be helpful.

Here is my progress so far:

[Don McIntyre - MI]

Looks pretty good so far. When you hinge the doors, I'd consider placing the hinges on the bottom; easier to open and store or retrieve items. Little chain or stainless cable to prevent them from opening too far. Downside might be you'll have to mount a heavier duty locking mechanism than if you hinged at the top.

Regards - Don

[Jefecinco]

For cleats I would consider a highly rot resistant wood with good screw holding characteristics. Paint the cleats to match the boxes so pretty wood is unnecessary. It may be useful to seal the interior surfaces with an epoxy sealant to prevent rot. If you're going to mount the cleats to the deck you'll want to ensure they are well sealed and that the screws are easily accessible for periodic inspection and resealing. You will probably find that a lot of water will enter the boxes so freeing ports will help them dry completely.

[NLA01]

Don , is that pine? Is that for a pattern?
Archie

[omnizzle]

For cleats I would consider a highly rot resistant wood with good screw holding characteristics. Paint the cleats to match the boxes so pretty wood is unnecessary. It may be useful to seal the interior surfaces with an epoxy sealant to prevent rot. If you're going to mount the cleats to the deck you'll want to ensure they are well sealed and that the screws are easily accessible for periodic inspection and resealing. You will probably find that a lot of water will enter the boxes so freeing ports will help them dry completely.

I just bought some teak that I plan on using as cleats. I have coated every bare surface of the boxes with epoxy & fiberglass, and will be coating the teak with epoxy as well.

Based on the assembly drawing from BW, I will screw the cleats to the boat, then bolt the boxes to the cleats. I will then fill any gaps as necessary w/ marine sealant. However it sounds like I should also include draining holes to make sure water isn't pooling up inside.

[Don McIntyre - MI]

If going with wood, teak will be fine. when drilling and coating, also coat the inside of the drilled hole to prevent water intrusion.

If your mounting them to the deck, inside of the box(es), you could also use one long and one short strip of Starboard, or some other Starboard like material.

Regards Don

[Don McIntyre - MI]

And yes, drain holes would probably be a good idea. Be sure to coat the insides of those too.

Regards - Don

[Don McIntyre - MI]

While looking at the picture, I was wondering why you didn't run the box up flush to the protrusion, or bump just above the stainless steel eyebolt?

[omnizzle]

Quick update... I'm almost done!

Just need to touch up the caulk and put on another finishing coat of paint. Overall a very time and labor intensive process!