1960 Whaler 13 project: "The Holey Whaler"

[Kenb]

I've started another whaler project, a 1960 13-footer my buddy anointed "The Holey Whaler".

Fig. 1. The original hull serial number.

serialNumber.jpeg (20.92 KiB) Viewed 25148 times

Fig. 2. The c.1960 boat on its much newer trailer, showing the topsides in decent condition.

ok.jpg (135.64 KiB) Viewed 25273 times

Fig. 3. The boat flipped over, with a now "holey" bottom.

holey whaler.jpg (168.47 KiB) Viewed 25273 times

THE GOOD
I found this boat in Marblehead. It came with a decent trailer, a period correct Evinrude 35-HP engine, and the original interior. The seller was in poor health, and he asked me to promise to do a good job on restoring the boat. Then he added a couple of tool boxes filled with good old tools, and that means I can't get too grumpy about what's under the hood

The topsides are in reasonably good shape. The original serial number (2415) is visible. There is crazing everywhere, but no stress cracks in the obvious places like the transom corners). I sold the engine to a guy who was happy to find one.

THE BAD
I flipped over the hull and found bad gelcoat cracks, which aremore serious than crazing. I knew some repair work had been done, but that work was pretty extensive. My [foiled] plan was to make sure the repairs were solid, then barrier coat everything, paint it, and flip it back over.

THE UGLY
Hitting the repaired areas with a rubber mallet shattered almost all of the repairs. They were too thin. Even worse, the foam under the repairs was wet. At this point, I realized that the sections of the bottom with the bad spidering might be wet too. I think the wet foam froze and flexed the gelcoat, cracking it. Lots of folks cut out the deck from the top and refoam that way, so no worries--except this bottom had huge sections that need to be replaced, so that won't work!

THE NEW PLAN

-I started with the holesaw (which was in one of the tool boxes that came with the boat), and I found that not all the foam was wet, I'll get out the wet foam and pour in new foam in. Then replace the hole saw divots (I kept then).
- Next I will apply two layers of 1708 --17-ounce cloth backed with mat, pretty standard boat building glass--over all the repaired sections.
- Followed by [new allover topcoat paint using 545 primer/barrier coat THEN topcoat[/i] with AWLGRIP.
- Some vinegar and salt to get the green off the old Norman pins.
- I'm looking at a new Tohatsu-Mercury 25-HP engine with a 15-inch shaft and tilt-trim, and hydraulic steering. The new merc-hatsu is the first time you can get tilt/trim on a 15 inch shaft, and the hydraulic steering fits the curved transom. With hydraulic steering, there is no need to modify the 15-inch transom, or add extra parts.

In the meantime, it looks like I might lose a little bit of that famous Boston Whaler hook--if you know, you know.

No sane person would continue, but I did make a promise, and I do love old Boston Whaler boats.

[Jefecinco]

The project should keep you busy for awhile. It's a heroic task you're taking on. Good luck.

[jimh]

You must like to spend a lot of time working in cold temperatures. I hope your sander has a really good dust management system with a HEPA filter at the vacuum.

[Kenb]

Thanks for the comments. To answer the specific comments, questions:

The project should keep you busy for awhile. It's a heroic task you're taking on. Good luck.

If by heroic you mean idiotic, then I agree.

You must like to spend a lot of time working in cold temperatures

I made a Stimson bow shed. [The ambient temperature] gets to [55-degrees-F] with electric heat, and to [75- or 80-degrees-F] with Mr Heater. I double-walled the sides so it stays warm.

I hope your sander has a really good dust management system with a HEPA filter at the vacuum.

I tried the BOSCH sander with filtered vacuum, but returned it because on the curves of a boat hull, I wasn't getting enough suction to keep the dust down.

For a few days, I was very confused as to why my 25-year-old shop-vac set up was working way better than the new $1,500 kit; the cause was the HEPA filter. My setup is a shop-vac with a cyclone filter, a hose on the outgoing air which vents outside, and a WEN 3410 air cleaner. I also wear a regular 3M mask.

I've used FESTOOL-brand [tools]. They are great, but not worth the price.

Not everyone has a bow shed.

I recently discovered that the cheap electric leaf blower I use for dust clean up also works as a leaf blower.

Fig. 4. Foam-filled holes,

IMG_0339.jpg (119.64 KiB) Viewed 25110 times

Fig. 5. Vinylester and 1708 biaxial closthfor a handsome transom.

IMG_0338.jpg (115.28 KiB) Viewed 25110 times

Fig. 6. The weekend's progress.

IMG_0337.jpg (142.47 KiB) Viewed 25110 times

First round of foam [infusions appeared to have] worked.

I an going to try taping-in-place the my [large circular hole] divots, and let the foam expand up to them. There seems to be a 10-minute period where the foam is hardening, but the foam remainsl pliable enough to move stuff around. If you don't get to the foam at the exact right moment, there's no going back.

Also, more glass work was done.

[Kapharms]

Great project that should yield great satisfaction when complete. Thank you for keeping us updated and using pictures. There are many of us that are vicariously doing the work alongside you.

-Ken

[jimh]

Having some data on the change in hull weight from beginning of the project to end of project would be interesting.

Before you go too much further in the refurbishment of the bare hull, perhaps you could weight it. Then re-weigh when finished with repairs, primers, and top coats.

[Kenb]

Back at it.

Against better judgment—and excellent advice—the build continues. If you ever come across a classic Boston Whaler hull where repairs to sections of the original fiberglass hull bottom have attempted but the repairs failed, maybe walk away. The only reason I persevered is that I stupidly promised the guy I bought this “1960 with original interior” from—who was very sick, possibly terminal—that I would finish it. What a dope (me). Integrity has its costs. Character is what you do when no one is looking.


jimh: I wasn’t able to weigh the wet hull, but it’s much lighter now, perhaps 50 to 80-lbs lighter, which is just based on how hard it was to move before. To reposition the sawhorses I used to have to crawl underneath and use my legs. Now I can grab a gunwale and lift. By the time I’m done, I’ll probably add back 20 to 30-lbs of new fiberglass and polyester resin.

THE GOOD

• I have an offer to sell the trailer for $500. If I’d cut up the boat, I’d actually be ahead on the project.
• My shed gets up to 65°F—warm enough to [allow polyester resin to cure].
• I found an engine and a way to mount it: a Mercury-Tohatsu 40-HP EFI.
• The foaming is done, and new foam is shown in Figure 7.
• The original mahogany interior pieces look great after having been repaired with epoxy resin; they are ready for Awlwood.

Fig. 7. End stage of infusion of new foam into the interior of the hull bottom.

IMG_0537 (1).jpeg (69.9 KiB) Viewed 908 times

THE BAD

• I have discovered that this 1960-hull has rusted-out corrugated [flexible electrical BX conduit] in the gunwales on all three sides--not just on the wiring side. I think the [the flexible electrical conduit] was simply a spacing filler between gelcoat and foam. See https://continuouswave.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8141
• Previous "repairerers"--jimh please don’t fix the misspelling as it is intentional to protect identities--glassed over gelcoat. As we all know, you can’t [use polyester laminating resin] over gelcoat. Their new fiberglass popped off with fingernail pressure—like opening pistachios.
• The transom lip and large sections of the bottom have completely lost their shape.
• The original fiberglass is shot: it is too thin, and has widespread gelcoat crazing and cracking, even where the foam was still good. Most of the bottom had wet foam, which only made things worse.

THE UGLY

• All the original gelcoat has been ground off using a 40-grit flapper wheel on a grinder. A Tyvek suit and full 3M mask were required. Using talc powder on any exposed skin is highly recommended.
• I lofted transom and bottom lines off another 13-foot hull for reference. The hull bottom is now built up with filler, ready for sanding and new fiberglass (See Figure 8).
• The rusty gunwale--which might be the new name for this project--has been removed and will be replaced with 1/2" marine ply. Original wiring that run inside the gunwale as been pulled See Figure 9.

Fig. 8. The hull bottom after sanding. It is ready for new fiberglass.

IMG_0746 (1).jpeg (38.35 KiB) Viewed 908 times

Fig. 9. Rebuilt gunwale.

IMG_0749 (1).jpeg (31.02 KiB) Viewed 908 times

THE PLAN

• Rebuild and re-shape the bottom with polyester resin and fairing compound, especially including the classic Boston Whaler hull running surface hook.
• Re-skin all bottom surfaces with 1708 mat and polyester laminating resin, then fair.
• Paint the hull with Awlgrip 454 and Awlgrip Snow White.
• Get the dang engine ready (300-hr kit, oil change, and so on.)
• I am still on the fence about hydraulic steering with a VEVOR 90-HP kit from Home Depot. The original plan was a Mercury-Tohatsu 25 or 30-HP with a 15-inch shaft height, which basically requires hydraulic steering since an NFB steering cable won’t fit the classic transom curve. The current engine needs a 20-inch transom, so NFB steering will work.
• Build and install a Koski mahogany transom insert as seen at http://www.koskiboatworks.com/transom-extension.html
• Flip over the hull and do very simple topside repairs. Should take about a week. Ha!

[jimh]

Thank you for the update. You are certainly perseverant. This hull may be one of the most intensively repaired old 13-footers ever undertaken.

Regarding the BX conduit, it wasn't used as an electrical conduit. It was used as a way to allow air to vent out of the hull as the foam was expanding.

[GoldenDaze]

The rusty gunwale--which might be the new name for this project

If all else fails, you've at least discovered a great name for a bar.

[TMO8419]

Kenb

Q1: have you made progress on this build?

Q2: what have you decided for steering?

ASIDE
I have a notched transom as well but am leery about installing a standoff bracket.

Q3: do you know if the Vevor90 hydraulic steering system will clear the notched transom without interference?

[Kenb]

Q1: have you made progress on this build?

Two steps back, three to the left, fall over, take a nap, then one step forward. I had to work on my seacraft to get it ready for the season, so have been a little lax on the holey whaler. But I did have a buddy look at it. His big insight was that to glass the new gunwhales, I should tilt the hull up on its side... that way I can glass the top of the sides and the sides. eg if the hull is upside down the way I have it in the photos, no way to glass the top of the sides. So no grinding or anything but big progress. I clear coated the seat mahogany, as I did some glass repairs; awlwood. Good stuff! My 17 year old shop vac died... I got a new one with the 25' hose, what a world of difference.

I also bounced some emails with Peter from koskiboatworks.com, asking if it was ok to copy his mahogany insert. It's the nicest one I've seen and I think it's strong enough for a hefty 4 stroke. Peter was very helpful, so now to the wood store for some more mahogany plank. The one change I might make is to keep the face the bolts the motor flat... instead of following the whaler transom curve. One bit of advice I got was to install angled shims, which I might do as well...

Q3: do you know if the Vevor90 hydraulic steering system will clear the notched transom without interference?

I am fairly sure the Vevor [steering] will fit on the notched transom. Before I bought a boat with a 20-inch transom, I had priced out a 15-inch-shaft-length Mercury engine (made by Tohatsu), and was headed that way [i.e., toward using the Vevor steering].

If you haven't done hydraulic before, my two bits of advice are

• download either the BayStar or Uflex manuals for general advice on installing the Vevor. The Vevor instructions aren't great; and,
• get a wheel with a suicide or Brodie knob, as a lot of steering wheel turns are needed to turn the engine--they're buttery smooth, one finger turning, but a lot of rotations.

If you have ever had that 12-feet NFB cable rust up, you will be impressed.