Mercury Oil Mixing Failure
Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2016 7:53 pm
On posts regarding [failures of the oil mixing system used in Mercury two-cycle classic outboard engines], it has been stated that Mercury customer service will help non-dealer and non-mechanic call-in customers find part numbers, will sell the parts, and even send instructions on how to [perform the installation of these parts]. Well, no more. I called and was told they no longer help out for liability reasons due to customers botching repairs and blaming Mercury.
There is a Quicksilver kit, available from on-line auction websites and elsewhere, that has a shaft, two screws, and an O-ring. That's four parts. Mercury customer service told me the job took six to eight parts, but would not tell my anything else, and they said I should contact a local dealer to help me out and order parts.
I called a local dealer-mechanic, and they had no idea what to do and could not find any parts for this job. I asked about service bulletins and even pointed out numbers 94-6, 96-10, and even 97-18 “Oil Injection Gear Failures - 135 thru 200 - 2.0L, 2.4L, & 2.5L V6” which should deal directly with this problem, but Mercury dealer had no clue.
Does anyone have a copy of [Mercury service bulletin] 97-18 you can post?
I have a 1997 Mercury 175XR2 Sport Jet, which is just an outboard powerhead on top of a jet pump unit, with a non-working oiling system and loud warning beeps. I performed all the tests in the manual. It seems I have the plastic gear failure; no oil comes out of the line from the oil injection pump to the fuel pump when the engine is running.
Thus I figure the plastic "gear-driven" is stripped. I have not removed the oil assembly yet, but do I have to?
What is wrong with leaving it in and premixing?
Other posts have said the plastic bits will do nothing to the metal engine and no one has described a non-invasive method to get them out.
Also, the Oil Block-off Kit has a long shaft that appears to take the place of the gear, implying that I can take the gear out. But I was under the impression that the gear had to be left in. If the original plastic gear can be left in, why is there a replacement shaft in the kit?
Does the original gear easily lift out of the hole?
If it does, why can't I just replace the original plastic gear with a new metal one?
Like this: http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/pa ... ER43-14563
Another thing, one of the tests I did was for a defective motion sensor in the oil injection pump. The service manual said that output voltage should peak at 5-Volts ± 1-Volt, and then drop to less than 1.0-Volt during every two revolutions of the engine. When I did this, it only went from 5-Volts to 4-Volts.
The manual said "should" not "must," so am I OK there?
Or does it really matter since my plastic gear appears to be stripped and I might take out the motion sensor anyway?
Thank you very much. Any help is appreciated.
There is a Quicksilver kit, available from on-line auction websites and elsewhere, that has a shaft, two screws, and an O-ring. That's four parts. Mercury customer service told me the job took six to eight parts, but would not tell my anything else, and they said I should contact a local dealer to help me out and order parts.
I called a local dealer-mechanic, and they had no idea what to do and could not find any parts for this job. I asked about service bulletins and even pointed out numbers 94-6, 96-10, and even 97-18 “Oil Injection Gear Failures - 135 thru 200 - 2.0L, 2.4L, & 2.5L V6” which should deal directly with this problem, but Mercury dealer had no clue.
Does anyone have a copy of [Mercury service bulletin] 97-18 you can post?
I have a 1997 Mercury 175XR2 Sport Jet, which is just an outboard powerhead on top of a jet pump unit, with a non-working oiling system and loud warning beeps. I performed all the tests in the manual. It seems I have the plastic gear failure; no oil comes out of the line from the oil injection pump to the fuel pump when the engine is running.
Thus I figure the plastic "gear-driven" is stripped. I have not removed the oil assembly yet, but do I have to?
What is wrong with leaving it in and premixing?
Other posts have said the plastic bits will do nothing to the metal engine and no one has described a non-invasive method to get them out.
Also, the Oil Block-off Kit has a long shaft that appears to take the place of the gear, implying that I can take the gear out. But I was under the impression that the gear had to be left in. If the original plastic gear can be left in, why is there a replacement shaft in the kit?
Does the original gear easily lift out of the hole?
If it does, why can't I just replace the original plastic gear with a new metal one?
Like this: http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/pa ... ER43-14563
Another thing, one of the tests I did was for a defective motion sensor in the oil injection pump. The service manual said that output voltage should peak at 5-Volts ± 1-Volt, and then drop to less than 1.0-Volt during every two revolutions of the engine. When I did this, it only went from 5-Volts to 4-Volts.
The manual said "should" not "must," so am I OK there?
Or does it really matter since my plastic gear appears to be stripped and I might take out the motion sensor anyway?
Thank you very much. Any help is appreciated.