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ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Mercury Oil Injection System
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| Author | Topic: Mercury Oil Injection System |
| jimh |
posted 03-19-2006 10:22 AM ET (US)  
Use this thread for any questions or comments on the Mercury Oil Injection System as described in the REFERENCE section article, Mercury Oil Injection System |
| migalito |
posted 04-04-2006 09:24 AM ET (US)
I recently purchase a center console with a 200 efi merc. I noticed that there was not a horn on the boat and the wire to the horn had been cut. I installed a horn and took the boat for a spin. After 5 minutes of run time the horn began to beep constantly, beep, beep, beep- not continously. It never stopped. Any ideas what this means? |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 04-04-2006 10:32 AM ET (US)
That is the No Oil warning. It should not be ignored. It is entirely possible that the alarm module itself has become defective and is sounding the alarm even though the motor is getting oil, but you need to deduce if this is the case before using the motor again. The faulty alarm module is a common problem among the Mercury motors. I have suffered through his problem myself as have many others here. Then there are those who will simply cut the wire to the horn to solve his particular problem. My outboard mechanic says he has rebuilt many outboards where the wire to the horn has been cut. On the other hand if the alarm does not sound until the boat has been run for five minutes, you may have a genuine oil starvation problem. |
| migalito |
posted 04-04-2006 02:16 PM ET (US)
Thanks Tom for the info. I checked the remote and the oil reseroir on the motor and both have plenty of oil. Is there a way to verify that it is the module? Are they expensive? |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 04-04-2006 02:22 PM ET (US)
There are test procedures described in the article above. You must run the motor on a tank of premixed gas while doing this testing. You should assume the motor is not getting oil until you can confirm that it is. The alarm module costs about $200 if I remember correctly. Also read: |
| rsess1 |
posted 04-04-2006 02:27 PM ET (US)
I had to replace the oil alarm on my 1994 Mercury 175 EFI this past June, when the exact same thing happened with constant alarm. I did add oil to the fuel tank just in case and monitored water temp that weekend. Replaced module for about $200. Good to go. |
| migalito |
posted 04-04-2006 02:34 PM ET (US)
Thanks once again Tom! I will do some testing this evening and see what I can come up with.... |
| migalito |
posted 04-05-2006 09:07 AM ET (US)
Hi Tom, I did some testing last night, not a lot it got dark before I was able to do much. I filled a very large livestock water trough, about 100 gallons, with water and lowered the drive into the water. Started the engine and let it idle. Within 1 minute the alarm started beeping. The engine was producing a lot of blue smoke so I assume it is oiling. I checked the float in the engine reservoir and it was moving freely. Hopefully tonight I will be able to do more testing. However, being a retired auto technician I noticed the engine seemed to be rattling internally alot, not really knocking like an auto engie when it has worn bearings. More like what we called gear rollover. A codition that is noticable on manual transmisions which is really just the gears rattling together at idle. Not an uncommon noise. Is this something I should be concerned about? Guess with the engine cove off it was more noticable. |
| jimh |
posted 04-05-2006 09:25 AM ET (US)
Tom--I did not realize your Mercury oil injection system alarm electronic module had failed. That makes it three for three of the owners I know with that problem. Unfortunately the module just sounds the same alarm no matter what part of the oil system is signalling. If the alarm is a steady BEEP, it is an over heat alarm. If the alarm is a BEEP BEEP BEEP, it is an oil alarm, and is caused by either: --oil level float switch in reservoir --magnetic sensor in oil mixing pump input drive shaft has stopped rotation --a defect in the alarm module itself (apparently a common failure) Because there are no indicators and the cadence of the alarm tone is the same, you have to deduce which sensor is causing the problem. You can deduce if the problem is the oil level in the under-cowling reservoir by checking the level. If the level is at its normal condition, almost full, the float switch could be signaling a false alarm. You can check this with a meter to see if the switch is actually signaling an alarm. If is much more difficult to assess the motion sensor. Monitor the output of the motion sensor alarm and verify that it produces an output pulse of 5-volts for every two rotations of the engine crankcase. If the motion sensor checks out, the next step is to change the engine's fuel supply to a pre-mix 1:50 oil:gas ratio source, and run the engine. You then disassemble the oil pump output hose and check to see if it is actually pumping oil. If, after all of these checks, the alarm condition persists, you conclude the alarm module itself is defective and replace the alarm module. |
| jimh |
posted 04-05-2006 09:32 AM ET (US)
Oops--forgot to mention this additional check: --Check the voltages being supplied to the alarm modules, including the pulses from the ignition module. It could be the problem is not in the alarm module at all, but is caused by a failure of the the ignition module to provide the proper voltage pulse. I will try to expand the REFERENCE article to include more detail on troubleshooting the alarm module for the Mercury system. I would guess that a lot of experienced Mercury mechanics may try a new alarm module in lieu of making all the checks suggested above. The labor for all that testing is probably as much as a new module, so a customer is going to pay as much to test the module as it costs to replace it. If the module has a history of failure, they may try to save the customer the time and money of testing it first. |
| migalito |
posted 04-05-2006 02:02 PM ET (US)
Thanks for all the great info Jim! I will be performing these test myself in hopes of saving money. |
| jimh |
posted 04-06-2006 11:49 PM ET (US)
Because of the high cost of repair of a failure of the plastic drive gear in the Mercury oil injection system, an alternative after-market solution has been developed. It replaces the OEM oil mixing pump with an electrically operated pump. The cost of a gear replacement is estimated at $1,200. The cost of retrofitting an electrically operated pump is estimated at $575. For more information on this solution, see: Marine Solutions (Wisconsin) They have retrofit kits available for Mercury V6 outboards: --135 to 200-HP, 1989 through 1999 --200 to 225-HP, 1995 through 2001 3-liter The manufacturer of this retrofit comes with some credentials. Robert Kachelek, president of Marine Solutions, was formerly the director of Outboard Service for Mercury Marine. |
| rexford |
posted 05-08-2006 01:18 PM ET (US)
Dear ContinuousWave I was directed to you in hopes that you could Would leaving these very small plastic shavings Thank you very much for your time and thank Mike |
| jeffs22outrage |
posted 06-26-2006 02:27 PM ET (US)
Jim, I wanted to say thanks for this article. My father spent a day and a half trying to diagnosis why the warning horn was bleeping on one of his Merc 150's. After swapping all of the sensors from one motor to the other, redoing all the grounds, and many other things he had enough. This was one of the FEW times I have seen him admit his just could not figure it out. After closing up shop because of rain, I went to the trusty reference section here and with in 5 minutes we were able to tell what was wrong. My father contacted the gentleman from http://www.marinesolutionswi.com/ on Monday and ordered the kit. It arrived (Detroit area) either Tuesday or Wednesday. The price was under $500.oo which was much cheaper than the $1400.oo quoted to replace the OEM pump. He installed the kit and unfortunatly still had the warning horn. After a couple phone calls to marinesolutionswi.com they were able to finally figure out it was a faulty wire on the oil float. Probably the problem from the beginning but, oh well. At least we know the oil pump is now good to go. SO A++, on the customer service from marinesolutionswi.com. I will ask him to post about the installation.. Cheers, |
| flycast47 |
posted 06-29-2006 10:44 AM ET (US)
I have been working with a 1986 Merc 175 with an oil warning system problem condition and wanted to add some information regarding the failure diagnosis process. The oil tank float sensor can be checked using a volt-ohm meter. The float creates a closed circuit when the tank level drops. Connecting the VOM to the float sensor leads should show no resistance [continuity] when the float lowered on its shaft, and inifinite resistance (open circuit) at the top of the shaft. As mentioned elsewhere, the oil pump motion sensor should produce a 5-volt pulse every two revolutions. In order to do this [the oil pump motion sensor] must be getting 12-volt input from the white wire connecting it to the warning module when the ignition is on. You must verify that the 12-volt source is present before checking for the 5-volt pulse. If it is not, then the warning module is probably defective. If some voltage is available when checking the white wire (the negative lead of the vom is connected to a ground on the motor) you may still verify the presence of a pump sensor pulse though it will not be a 5-volt pulse. To produce the pulse the engine must be rotated with the emergency starter rope and the flywheel. with the sparkplugs removed. I hope that this is information is useful. |
| gbrannon |
posted 07-23-2006 01:29 PM ET (US)
I have a mercury 200 HP 2.5 L outboard 1995 off shore The alarm went of the temp was high I think grass at idle speed caused it. I was not on the boat at the time. I got on the boat and ran it. It cooled down but alarm stayed on I took it home and let it cool down. The alarm comes on when cranked it is a steady alarm don't know if it is the oil alarm or false temp. justed replaced sensor oil cap a while back I checked all conections they looked fine have put many hours on motor since I replaced the oil cap. any help Thanks |
| Dos Guidos |
posted 07-28-2006 06:46 PM ET (US)
I experienced an oil injection system alarm last weekend and avoided engine damage but would like some input as to what caused the alarm. The problem was a cracked cap on the 1 liter (engine mounted) oil reservoir. The crack allowed the remote reservoir to pump 2.5 gallons of oil out through the broken cap into the lower areas of the engine compartment (what a mess). The 1 liter oil reservoir was full when checked. To get back underway, I transfered a gallon of oil from the other remote reservoir (twin OB)into the empty one and started the motor, and the alarm did not sound. I assumed the remote tank had an alarm and sounded when emptied. After reading articles on this site, there is no alarm in the remote tank. Only thing I can conclude is that the low oil float sensor in the 1 liter reservoir barely engaged during all the oil pumping throught the crack. I replaced BOTH caps at $42 each. These are 1990 135 Black Max with 700 hours on a (sorry to all BW fans) 24 SeaRay Laguna FDC. Prior owner had wires all twisted around and insulation was missing on the cracked one. Thought I would share this as all warning systems worked as designed. Comments anyone (besides my choise in boat brands? |
| barefoot200 |
posted 08-01-2006 10:20 AM ET (US)
Same as some of the other people, the BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP at two-minute intervals started on my 2002 Mercury EFI 200-HP, 153 cubic inches. We were on vaction, so our regular technician was not an option. [Someone] checked out the engine with an ohm meter, and according to the manual he showed me, he decided that the the sensor in the engine-mounted reservoir was faulty. As a temporary fix, he bypassed the the sensor by attaching a piece of wire in the circuit where the reservoir would normally be. He said that this would stop the beeping. The beeping DID stop for a while, but then started again. Did the circuit bypass damage something else? I ordered a new engine mounted reservoir. Any tips on installation? |
| bsmotril |
posted 08-01-2006 11:52 AM ET (US)
The cracked cap for the under cowl resevoir is probably the most common failure point for the Merc Oil System across the mid to highpower 2 stroke and DFI product line. Join the club, a lot of us have also already been there too. BillS |
| jimh |
posted 08-01-2006 08:11 PM ET (US)
barefoot200--I have deleted the duplicate article you posted with this same inquiry. Please don't post duplicate articles. -- Perhaps the temporary jumper in the oil reservoir float switch circuit came loose. It is hard to predict what happened. I don't see how the temporary jumper could have caused a problem. As far as the alarm module can tell, a closed circuit is a closed circuit, and it doesn't know if it is a float switch or a jumper. The alarm modules on these engines seem to have a history of problems. Perhaps the alarm module is acting up now, too. Installing the new reservoir float switch should not be too difficult. Let us know how it goes. Also, what is that part number? It might be handy to have if it is a common problem and often replaced. |
| barefoot200 |
posted 08-07-2006 12:35 PM ET (US)
Thank you for your response. Since I wrote last, the new (engine-mounted) reservior arrived. I installed it, and ran it for 10 minutes in a test tank. No beeping. From what I have read here at continuous wave, it sounds like the alarm modules are the more common problem. If the beeping starts again, I'll order one and replace it. I'll have a chance to use the boat in two days. Sorry about the duplicate message. The first time I posted my question, I clicked new message instead of post reply. |
| crbenny |
posted 08-17-2006 02:39 PM ET (US)
I had the alarm module fail on my '87 135 Black Max last year. I also had a switch box failing intermittently and this can cause the alarm as well I'm told because the module's power source is whichever switchbox it's wired to. As far as the plastic gear goes, I spoke with Peter Nopper of Nopper Marine in Fairhaven, Ma. and he told me those plastic gears have a tendency to fail if the engine's been overheated so, you guys that run them hard or anyone thats lost an impeller, you may want to check it. One other word of advice he gave me was ign. timing. You guys may remember my post 2 weeks ago when I thought my initial timing was retarded. I advanced it one turn and sure enough it ran great, however my top speed was still down. I surmised that the total timing was most likely retarded as well. I shared this with Peter and he suggested that I should live with the 300 rpm loss and not get too agressive with the timing. Evidently, since the 10% ethinol in marine fuel in Ma. he's had a few customers melt their powerheads. |
| Benn |
posted 08-21-2006 04:14 PM ET (US)
Great information on this thread. Thanks to all. Hoping for a some help trouble shooting my own oil alarm [problem]. I have a 1995 75 HP Merc that is giving me the oil alarm right when I turn the ignition key from "stop" to "run," even before I start the engine. I can start the engine up (on premix to be safe) and the alarm continues. I am thinking that since the alarm goes off regardless of the fact the engine is running, this would definitely point to either the failure of the float in the oil reservoir (this has entire oil reservoir under the cowling) or the electrical sensor unit. If it was an actual oil pump failure, the engine would have to be running for the sensor to sense "no motion" and trigger the alarm, right? Any good how too's on line with good write ups on how to trouble shoot this? I have a good multimeter. Thanks, Benn |
| jimh |
posted 10-26-2006 09:39 AM ET (US)
Check your oil level sensor switch. There was a good discussion of a three-part failure of this circuit recently. The failure mode was quite astonishing: --the floating magnet actuator became dislodged from the float; --the reed switch which was to be actuated by the magnet was failed; --the alarm module which was to be actuated by the switch was failed. So all three portions of the alarm system (mechanical, electrical, aural) were failed! See: Mercury Oil Tank Level Sensor That article has pictures of the failed float switch mechanism. |
| bill705 |
posted 10-26-2006 02:07 PM ET (US)
Benn: An easy way to check it is to just take the screw holding the reed switch sensor underneath the tank out and slide the sensor out. No oil is going to come out with the sensor, it just fits up into a tube. Then turn the key on and see if it beeps. If if doesn't beep with the sensor out, slide it back in with the key still on and if it starts to beep when the sensor is inserted, the float is stuck or the magnet has come off. If it beeps with the sensor out, disconnect one of the leads from the sensor to the module and see if the beep stops. That will tell you if it's the sensor or the module. Check the oil lines for cracks and leaks after you've fooled with it cause they do break and fall apart really easy. Good Luck: Bill |
| bill705 |
posted 10-26-2006 02:17 PM ET (US)
Benn: Forgot to mention that if it is the magnet and I don't really think that the float can get stuck, it takes a new tank to fix it. The tube and float assembly look like they're put in after the tank is built and are permanent. It's a pretty easy job to replace the tank and bleed the oil line. Bill |
| ttmac182 |
posted 11-07-2006 01:37 PM ET (US)
Just bought a 1995 2.5 Mercury 200 horse outboard. I took it to the local dealer to have the carbs cleaned and he suggested unhooking the oil injector and mixing the fuel. The alarms appears to work properly. Is this a good idea? Thanks! |
| Buckda |
posted 11-07-2006 02:20 PM ET (US)
It's a good idea for him if he's selling oil. Mixing straight (50:1) oil means that he's going to sell about 35-50 percent more oil to you. If you are worried about the injection system, I'd just inspect the on-powerhead oil resevoir level before and after each use. If it stays full, you're in good shape. |
| alfa |
posted 11-07-2006 02:27 PM ET (US)
I agree with Dave. I suggest to search for a professional Merc Dealer. |
| andygere |
posted 11-07-2006 07:45 PM ET (US)
ttmac182, I had the 1989 2.4 liter version of that motor, and an oil system failure is what killed it. The good news is that it could have been prevented. I would suggest that a qualified mechanic look at all the oil delivery components, and replace all the soft components (all of the clear and black tubing in the system) and carefully bleed the system. I recall the shop manual reccomended running on 50:1 from a portable tank after making these repairs to be sure all the air is bled out and the system is working. Oil injection is quite reliable in general, but it does rely on some very cheap parts that can easily fail and cause your engine to have a catastrophic problem (eg bearing failure, cylinder score, etc.). Replace these parts, and your chances of failure are pretty low. That said, the pre-mix 1979 Johnson 85 on my old Montauk is still being run by the guy I sold it to several years ago. If premixing makes you feel more comfortable, there's nothing wrong with it. It was done for a long time before oil injection was invented. |
| PeteB88 |
posted 11-07-2006 07:59 PM ET (US)
I keep hearing certain year Merc and Yamaha were the same or same power heads - any chance my 92 Yamaha 40 3 cylinder is same as Merc? Nice to know as I continue to trouble shoot. thanks |
| The A Dog |
posted 06-10-2007 11:41 PM ET (US)
Awesome info! New boat owner here with the opposite problem of most; my alarm won't sound on startup (when switching from off to run the alarm doesn't do it's diagnostic beep). The under-cowl oil tank is filling up and I have lots of bluish smoky exhaust, so it seems to be getting oil. I am a bit confused as to the testing procedure that's been mentioned...does the alarm generate beeps from its own speaker or is it tied into the boat's electric horn? Sounds dumb, but I don't know what it's supposed to sound like so I don't know where to test to see if it's just the connection to the sound-making part of the alarm. I'm hoping I'm not in for an expensive alarm module swap. Also, has anyone fixed their cracked oil caps rather than replacing them? While trying to figure out the alarm problem, opening and closing the engine oil tank a couple of times to make sure it was filling and the float switch was working caused the cap cracked in half! Ugg, things are breaking faster than they're getting fixed! The instructions posted here said to make sure the oil caps were on tight...guess I overdid it. So I glued the halves back together with CA glue (cyanoacrylate, AKA super glue) because I was impatient and there's no way to get parts on a Sunday evening! This seems to work fine while idling...I didn't test it under load. Do you think this will work or am I setting myself for an oily explosion come high RPMs? It's just lame to have to have to order the whole 48 dollar cap assembly when all I need is the cheaply made plastic cap. I'm tempted to measure it, count the threads, and see if I can find something the same size to replace it. Thanks for any help! |
| merc125 |
posted 06-11-2007 05:30 AM ET (US)
A new cap is $15 to 20 on ebay, mine has a float.The engine has its own alarm horn. Mine is wire tied to the engine wiring harness where it meets the guage clusterunder the dashboard. Tan/blue wire running back to the engine and purple from ignition switch. Some horns are mounted in the binicle or remote control. What engine do you have? MartyD |
| The A Dog |
posted 06-11-2007 10:06 AM ET (US)
Ok that helps a lot, I think I saw the alarm horn you spoke of last night when I was looking behind the dash. The engine is a 1985 150hp Black Max. Should I test the alarm horn with a multimeter? If so, what kind of voltages should I expect? Thanks so much! ~Alex |
| tbg111 |
posted 06-20-2007 11:00 AM ET (US)
I think someone out there might be able to help me with this. I have an 1989 Mercury Mariner 100-HP that the oil warning alarm won't stop. I've disconnected the sensor leads and it still beeps. I replaced the warning module and it now sounds continuously (doesn't beep anymore). This has all been done with out starting the engine. If the sensor were bad I assume that disconnecting it would have worked. I'm trying to diagnose this without going to the dealer because I would like to get the boat out this summer. What are the components of the oil injection system that might cause the [this behavior]? I would assume by what I've tested that it isn't the sensor in the oil tank or the tank or the warning module. What other components are there in this system? Thanks for any response. |
| Ouroboros |
posted 07-17-2007 02:29 AM ET (US)
I have had the same beep - beep - beep [behavior] with my 1989 Mariner 75, and [to perform a] good quick test to see if it is as simple as the magnet coming dislodged from the float inside the oil tank, remove the few bolts holding your oil reservoir in place and turn it upside down with your key in the ON position. In my case, the beeping stops immediately, and returns as soon as I right the tank. As is stated in a few replies in this thread, there is no way to repair this magnetic sensor in the oil reservoir with any ease, so in my case a replacement of the oil tank itself will probably be done. I am confident that the motor is burning oil due to the smoke it emits, and that the oil level does drop after a day on the lake, so in the meantime I have chosen to disconnect the sensor until the tank is replaced. I am debating whether or not to remove the tank, flush it to remove oil, and drill a small (maybe 3/4") access hole close to where the sensor is to see if I can epoxy the magnet back to the float and the place a 3/4 plastic threaded plug in the access hole. I think if I pinch off the oil line exiting the tank before I remove it, I can save myself having to flush the air out of the system at the same time. Any thoughs on whether I should try this before shelling out the money to fix someone elses bad engineering? |
| robgoodwin |
posted 08-18-2007 04:46 PM ET (US)
I have a 1989 Mercury 150 that just recently started the Beep, Beep, Beeping while the engine is running. I checked the voltages according to the book and they all look ok. I've found when I start the motor and grab the motion sensor and wiggle it around I can get the beeping to stop. Does this really mean that the motion sensor is bad? Also, I removed the oil inlet line to see how much oil was pumping out. Very little oil comes out, but more tends to come out with more rpms. How much oil should I see come out of this hose? Thanks for any help. |
| scmaalna5 |
posted 08-22-2007 10:47 AM ET (US)
This is my first post I just found this great resource. I have a 1992 150 Merc on my 19ft Proline and I was out the other day and the beep, beep, beep went off. I looked at the level and it looked ok but. So I restarted it and it beeped again. It seemed to loose power. I only ran it for less than a minute with the alarm going off. I decided to not take a chance and called the tow company, ouch, I should have gotten the insurance. One piece of information that may be important, when we started the trip the oil tank cap was hissing because it was loose not really understanding the system was pressurized (this was prior to reading all the great info on this board)so I opened the cap while it was running. It made a little mess, not sure this could have caused the problem but it seems like kind of a coincidence. I should note that we ran out at 5000rpm for 12 miles after this then we trolled for about an hour with no alarm. Also the alarm came on after shutting down during a pass to change lures so it never was running at more than idle when the alarm came on. I have a few questions: 1. Assuming worst case scenario and the oil pump went would running the motor twice for less than a minut been enough to cook the engine? 2. Is there a run safe mode if the oil pump sensor causes the alarm, could this have caused the loss of power? 3. How difficult is it to bypass the system and go to premix? My logic is if it is going to cost me up to $2,000 to fix it it is just not worth putting that kind of money in it if I could just premix. |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 08-23-2007 10:03 AM ET (US)
scmaalna5, 1. No, running a motor for only a few minutes will not "cook" an engine. 2. No, there is no "run safe mode" on your 1992 Mercury 150. That is a feature found on OMC/BRP motors. 3. I believe the conversion to running premix is simple and straightforward but having never done it, I do not know the details. |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 08-23-2007 10:05 AM ET (US)
Rob, I would certainly think the motion sensor on the oil pump or the oil pump itself is suspect. Yes, the oil output of the oil pump will vary with the RPM. That is why the oil pump is linked to the throttle linkage. You would have to quantify how much oil is "Very little" before concluding if that rate is normal or not. |
| scmaalna5 |
posted 08-23-2007 09:16 PM ET (US)
Tom, Thanks for the feedback. Did some checking today. I bought an external tank and gas line so I can run it on premixed fuel while trouble shooting. It seems to be running OK going to do a compression test when I get home from vacation just for peice of mind. I took the oil pump off today and turned the motor over by hand and pushed against the drive slot to see if the nylon gear is OK. It seems to be working fine so that's good news. I believe that is the most expensive fix so I'm going to test the components next. I also bled the system by losening the cap on the engine mounted tank it worked as expected but didn't stop the alarm. One question on the oil pump, I disconnected the oil hose leading from the pump to the fuel pump and then started the engine. I didn't know what to expect but the oil barely came out. Does that sound right? |
| robgoodwin |
posted 08-24-2007 10:00 AM ET (US)
Tom, To quantify, I ran the motor at idle on premix fuel and removed the outlet line from the oil pump. I measured 1 tsp in 2 minutes at about 800-1000 rpm. I don't know what the fuel rate is, but this seems like enough oil. Also, after wiggling the wires on the motion sensor and getting the beeping to stop in the back yard, I took it out on the lake with no beeping for a few minutes. Then it would start beeping for a few seconds and stop if I increased the rpms a little. |
| gss036 |
posted 08-24-2007 01:56 PM ET (US)
One word of caution, if you remove the probe for the oil pump and take the magnet out, remember there is a north and south pole for the magnet. Make sure you put it back in the way it came out. If you can wiggle the connections and get results, you probably have a loose or bad connection. |
| frank_king |
posted 08-24-2007 11:55 PM ET (US)
Hey scmaalna5, Its very easy to remove oil injection. Its been a while since I removed oil injection so bare with me. Remove oil tank and two lines that come from boat and hook to engine. (This is where my memory gets foggy) The oil system works on the idea that at idle the mixing ratio is 100 to 1. When the throttle advances and oil gear arm is advanced the system now is at 50 to 1. Frank |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 08-25-2007 12:15 AM ET (US)
Rob, One teaspoon over two minutes is not enough oil for you 1989 Mercury 150. The rate of oil consumption would be a 100:1 only if your motor burned about 3/4 of a gallon of fuel per hour. I know my 1989 Mercury 150s burn about 2 gallons per hour and even that may be a bit optimistic. |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 08-25-2007 12:19 AM ET (US)
I know my 1989 Mercury 150s burn about 2 gallons per hour (at idle) and even that may be a bit optimistic. I suspect your oil pump is failing. If a tooth or two on the plastic gear breaks, the oil pump may operate sporadically. Dale, my Mercury mechanic, has told me he has seen this on several motors and it can lead to an intermittent alarm. |
| tmann45 |
posted 08-25-2007 08:49 AM ET (US)
quote: Tom Clark, please check my math: My converter program says there are 768 teaspoons in a gallon. I agree with your 2 gph for fuel flow rate at idle as my FloScan reads +/- 2.5 gph for a 200 hp carb Mercury. So, 768 teaspoons/gal X 2 gph = 1536 teaspoons/hour fuel usage. At 100:1 fuel oil ratio, 1536 / 100 = 15.36 teaspoons/hour oil usage. 15.36 teaspoons/hour / 60 minutes/hour = 0.256 teaspoons oil/minute or 0.512 teaspoons for 2-minutes at idle. Therefore it appears that the fuel oil ratio is actually 50:1. So, 2 gal/hour X 768 teaspoons/gal = 1536 teaspoons/hour fuel usage. At 100:1 fuel oil ratio, 1536 / 100 = 15.36 teaspoons oil per hour. 15.36 / 60 minutes/hour X 2 minutes = 0.512 teaspoons oil for 2-minute run at idle. Looks like the fuel oil ratio is more like 50:1 for Rob's test. Best Regards, |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 08-25-2007 12:09 PM ET (US)
Tom, Your math is correct. Mine was wrong. I had failed to make the conversion from two minutes to one hour and was using the number for a fluid ounce instead of a teaspoon. Yes, it looks like one teaspoon in two minutes is actually a mixture slightly richer than 50:1 which is odd given that the oil is supposed to metered at 100:1 at idle. |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 08-25-2007 06:06 PM ET (US)
Regarding gss036's comments about the magnet, yes, the magnet has to go in one way and not the other. The end of the magnet that attracts the North arrow of a simple compass is the end that is inserted FIRST. |
| scmaalna5 |
posted 08-26-2007 10:03 PM ET (US)
Thanks for all the help. I spent today doing some checking on my 150. I actually have two 150s, one is a 1992 on my Proline 192 Dual Console (this it the one I am having the problems with) and the other is a 1988 150 XR4 on my Bass Tracker 1800 FS bass boat. The bass boat has already had the oil injection removed by a previous owner. Based on what I can tell all he did was disable the alarm and left everything in place and just started to premix. This winter I'm going to do it right based on info from this board. Anyway, back to the Proline, I spent today swapping parts from the Bass Boat to the Proline and trying it. I couldn't get the alarm to stop. I realize that one or more of the parts on the Proline are most likely bad (probably the reason that went to premix) but I just wanted to give it a try. While doing this I was running her on a premix tank. I want to get back on the water and considering that I spent $350 the other day for a tow I'm thinking I'm just going to switch to premix and get back on the water for little or no money. From what I read I can't see many reasons not to go to premix. The two bad things: 1. More smoke at idle - not a big deal to me 2. Higher oil consumption which means more cost. Unfortunately I don't get to use the boat that often (plus I split time between the two boats depending on the type of fishing I'm doing) so It would prebably take me at least five years to recoup the cost I will spend to fix my problem in oil savings. So with that said, am I missing anything else? Are there any other reasons what I should just do it? Thanks again for all the information. |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 08-26-2007 10:28 PM ET (US)
For me the biggest reason of all to maintain the oil injection is the freedom to just fill the oil tank and not worry about mixing the oil with the gas when I fill my gas tank. I have a 140 gallon gas tank and it takes enough time to full it as is. Having to slowly add oil while I'm filling would be a hell of a chore especially when trying to keep track of the ratio. In the old days, you could buy "pre-mix" but I haven't seen that in 20 years around here. I would not buy if it was still available because the quality of the oil is so important. If you have a smaller tank it might not be a bad idea to just run a gas/oil mix. |
| scmaalna5 |
posted 08-27-2007 05:38 PM ET (US)
Tom, You bring up a good point and raise another question. My plan was to figure out how much gas I was going to put in and dump in the oil first then put in the gas. I don't run great distances at a time so typically I put in 20 gals at a time (I have a 70 gallon tank). If I take this approach will the oil get mixed with the gas adequately? Just another thing I need to consider. |
| Tom W Clark |
posted 08-27-2007 09:30 PM ET (US)
To ensure that the gas and oil are mixed, the accepted technique is to use a funnel with a fine mesh screen in it. Simultaneously add the oil and the gas and it will enter the tank as a mix. This is basically a three or four handed operation unless you go *really* slowly. |
| scmaalna5 |
posted 08-28-2007 10:50 AM ET (US)
Wow, maybe I better pursue the fix that could be a real pain even with just 20 gallons or so. |
| scmaalna5 |
posted 09-05-2007 02:59 PM ET (US)
Flycast47 stated: As mentioned elsewhere, the oil pump motion sensor should produce a 5-volt pulse every two revolutions. In order to do this [the oil pump motion sensor] must be getting 12-volt input from the white wire connecting it to the warning module when the ignition is on. You must verify that the 12-volt source is present before checking for the 5-volt pulse. If it is not, then the warning module is probably defective. If some voltage is available when checking the white wire (the negative lead of the vom is connected to a ground on the motor) you may still verify the presence of a pump sensor pulse though it will not be a 5-volt pulse. To produce the pulse the engine must be rotated with the emergency starter rope and the flywheel. with the sparkplugs removed. I had some time last night and tested the white wire coming out of the alarm modual connected to the oil pump sensor. The purple wire going into the modual was hot when I turned on the key the white wire that connected to the oil pump sensor remained dead. Based on this test can I assume that the alarm modual is bad? |
| scmaalna5 |
posted 09-14-2007 06:59 AM ET (US)
Well I'm at wits end. I decided that since my engine is 15 years old and in excellent shape (it's been well cared for and had little use and looks new) it might not be a bad thing to replace all of the electrical components so I changed out the cap, the pump sensor and the alarm module and guess what BEEP, BEEP, BEEP, etc. I also confirmed that the drive gear is driving the pump. HELP I'm at a loss if I replaced everything what else could it possibly be? |
| Randy22 |
posted 09-14-2007 12:26 PM ET (US)
I was running into the same issues. I also replaced the oil cap and alarm module and the beeps would not go away. I finally took it to a dealer and he confirmed by worse nightmare, the gear was gone and there was no oil going to the engine. I had pulled the oil hose with the motor running on premix and go some oil coming out, but evidentally not enough to satisfy the alarm module. And not that I did not trust the guy and his $2000 estimate for both engines, but I wanted to look for myself, so I removed the oil injector and pulled the gear bearing and drive shaft and the shaft was covered with plastic shavings. Hopefully when I reinstall a new electrical injection system this weekend, the beeps will stop. I have a post just below yours and I'll let you know what happens this weekend. |
| scmaalna5 |
posted 09-14-2007 10:55 PM ET (US)
Randy22, After I confirmed that the pump shaft was turning I pulled it out to check the gear. The gear looked perfect and there were no plastic shavings on the gear. I'm thinking that the gear is ok. |
| Geoffers |
posted 12-17-2007 05:09 AM ET (US)
Just wanted to add my findings to this very useful site. I started to experience the 'Beep Beep Beep' earlier this year on a 1995 135 Black Max. At cold there would be no problem but after 10 mins or so it would start. Occasionally it would stop but not too often. Same again next day and so on... After reading the info on this site I confirmed correct operation of the oil pump and found the problem to be the 'module' Another score for the module!!! New module cost me $180 from a mercury dealer. Thanks all for the good info... Geoff |
| jimh |
posted 12-17-2007 10:12 PM ET (US)
Geoff--Thanks for adding your experience to the collection in this discussion. I am sure others will find it informative. |
| warlo_527 |
posted 03-04-2008 02:48 AM ET (US)
I hate to bring this post back up to the top, but don't want to create another topic! I have a 99 Mercury Sportjet 175. (Serial # is OE3535xxx) I have disabled the oil injection and am currently mixing with synthetic at 50-1. I don't mind mixing and it gives me a little peace of mind. The only problem is I haven't figured out how to disable the alarm. I have spoke to many mechanics..all the local ones have no idea, and I have rec'd answers online of it's not possible with the tks. I see that Frank had a reply that I haven't tried yet and don't quite understand. "(This is where my memory gets foggy)And if anyone can correct me please do.There is a brown with blue strip (if I remember correctly) that must be relocated on the starboard side electronic panel. what happens is the wire that ran through the oil warning system thats been removed) is put on the terminal that leads back to the buzzer. What then happens, is that the buzz that was heard when you first turned the key to the on position, doesn't sound any more. But the over heat alarm still sounds when an overheat condition exist." Not sure if this applies to engines with TKS. If it does not sure where I connect the brown with blue stripe wires plugs into? Any techs who can help me in disabling the oil injection alarm only while keeping the overheat would be GREATLY appreciated...the buzzing is getting old! |
| towboater |
posted 03-04-2008 11:13 AM ET (US)
I am curious if any of you that have disabled the oil injection and now premixing are having any problems with fouled plugs? mk |
| tmann45 |
posted 03-04-2008 08:00 PM ET (US)
Been using premix for 72 hours, no fouled plugs yet. Surface gap plugs on 1998 Mercury 200XL carb. |
| dp463 |
posted 03-08-2008 07:36 PM ET (US)
I have a 1990 Mercury 200 EFI. Started the beep,beep,beep and i did several checks and replaced the alarm module. I ran it a day on the lake and ran fine for about 2 hours. As I started to load up the alarm went off again. I noticed after this trip that my oil tank (under the cowl) was extremely low. Im wanting to know I guess why my larger tank would not be pumping any aoil to the small cowl tank. Any thing I can check? Thanks for any help. |
| dp463 |
posted 03-08-2008 08:18 PM ET (US)
I have a Mercury 200 EFI. Started the beep,beep,beep. I did a series of checks and replaced the alarm module. I ran the boat for about an hour and a half with no alarm. As I started to load the boat up at idle the alarm went off again. I came home and did a series of checks and noticed that the oil reservoir (under the cowl) was almost empty. The remote oil tank is full. I have checked hoses for kinks. Is there any way to check the small check valve? or are there any other things that could be the problem. Engine is getting oil just not pumping from remote tank to reservoir tank. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
| Tohsgib |
posted 03-08-2008 08:50 PM ET (US)
The disconnect wires you should see towards the front of the engine, not the tan ones on the head for overheat alarm...just yank the harness. This is all I did on my OMC and beep still goes on at initial key turn. You can then test your overheat alarm by disconnecting the sensors and "possibly" having to ground them to engine for a test. |
| deepwater |
posted 03-08-2008 09:15 PM ET (US)
you said you disabled the oil injection ,, does that mean you drained the oil tank too,,, if so is that the alarm your hearing (low oil),, if so could you fill the tank with oil (enough) to silence the alarm ,,I am not real technical about things sorry |
| Welder08 |
posted 03-09-2008 04:10 PM ET (US)
Hi, I have a 1988 135 HP Mercury with oil injection. Runs great but seems to smoke quite a bit at startup. I checked the oil pump linkage and is set to correct indent at idle. I'm running Mercury Premium Plus oil and was wondering if this smoking is normal or is the something else I could check. Thanks, Dave |
| L H G |
posted 03-10-2008 02:43 PM ET (US)
Check for a worn out oil pump. As they wear, they let more oil through as a fail safe measure, causing the excessive smoking. I have an 1988 150 2.0 liter, basically the same engine as yours, and that was my problem. |
| Welder08 |
posted 03-10-2008 05:17 PM ET (US)
Thanks. That's what I was thinking it might be as it doesn't smoke when boat is up to speed and runs great. Will check out new oil pump. Is it a big deal to install? I'm no Boat mechanic but looks like just 2 bolts hold it in. |
| tmann45 |
posted 03-10-2008 06:38 PM ET (US)
Welder, if your engine has a thermal air valve (carb models), you might want to check it. It will make the engine run rich if it is not opening once the engine is warmed up. |
| Welder08 |
posted 03-11-2008 07:02 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the info tmann. Seems to only smoke when I first start the engine, whether it's a cold or warm engine which leads me to believe it's running 50:1 at startup instead of 100:1. I'll check for thermal air valve. I know these oil pumps are a bit pricey. Cheapest I found was around $170.00. Is there a chance the oil pump could just be dirty and all it needs is a good cleaning? The engine is 20 years and even I've needed a good cleaning in that span! Great forum and THANKS for all the info. |
| kmc |
posted 03-21-2008 05:11 PM ET (US)
First time on here. I read through this thread but couldn't find my answer I have twin 1999 Mercury V150 motors. Starboard oil alarm came on. It is a non-stop beep-beep-beep that does not stop until I turn the key off. Much different than the steady beep for the overtemp alarm. One at a time, I swapped the oil cap, motion sensor, warning module, and oil pump. Same problem on the starboard and no problem with the port engine after I moved all the parts over. I manually turned the pump and oil did flow through. The gears are in good shape. With the engine running I disconnected the hose and 3 drops of oil came out in less than 10 seconds. I disconnected the motion sensor and started the motor and did not get the warning. While the engine was running I reconnected the sensor and it triggered the alarm. I pulled the motion sensor out of the hole, reconnected it and started the motor. No warning alarm until I put the motion sensor back in the hole. I swapped motion sensors again with the other engine and same problem. The alarm does go through its cycle when I turn the key on. thanks |
| bigshrimpin |
posted 03-23-2008 12:34 AM ET (US)
There is a $16 fix for all [Mercury Oil Injection] problems. You can buy plate and gasket to cap off hole in the crankcase and just premix. You just have to remove the shaft, oil pump, oil tank, the module, and cap off. Premix 50:1 and [your are] done forever with these Mercury oil injection headaches. Stay on top of the carbon buildup with a couple cans of power tune every 100 hours. While [you are] at it, junk the spark advance module and the idle stabilizer, set the timing manually,and now your Mercury will last forever--as long as you keep an eye on the wiring. |
| jimh |
posted 03-23-2008 03:27 PM ET (US)
Keith--Since you have swapped all of the electrical components in the system, and the alarm condition persists, I suspect that the cause of the alarm condition is a mechanical problem. Perhaps the drive shaft from the crankshaft gearing is not turning at sufficient speed--just a guess. |
| gss036 |
posted 03-23-2008 04:44 PM ET (US)
{One word of caution, if you remove the probe for the oil pump and take the magnet out, remember there is a north and south pole for the magnet. Make sure you put it back in the way it came out. If you can wiggle the connections and get results, you probably have a loose or bad connection.} "Tom Clark" "Regarding gss036's comments about the magnet, yes, the magnet has to go in one way and not the other. The end of the magnet that attracts the North arrow of a simple compass is the end that is inserted FIRST" This an earlier response w/comment by Tom Clark. If you have not messed w/the magnet and then you put everything back together right and still get the alarm. I would only assume that the pick up sensor is bad for some reason. These things work on the same principle as old spedo controls,:counting evolutions. |
| DaveLewis |
posted 04-04-2008 06:11 PM ET (US)
New to this forum. I have a pair of Mercury Optimax 150 new in April 2005. At this site: http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury_parts/11822/110.cfm Appears that the switch assy 856156A2 is replaceable in that one screw with a washer on it holds it in the hole. Remove the screw and the switch slides right out. My question is, can just the switch be replaced to make the fix (stop the beeping) or does the whole oil reservoir have to be replaced every time? Thank you. |
| kh4 |
posted 06-08-2008 09:52 AM ET (US)
Dear Continuous Wave, I have a 1996 mercury 150XR6.I resently went to the lake and when I was turning the engine over the oil alarm sounded immediately and would not start. I was at the lake less than two weeks ago and everything was fine. I have oil in the oil tank and in the reserve tank. Any help would be gratefully appreciative in trouble shooting. Before I take it to the shop. Thanks, KH4 |
| sosmerc |
posted 06-08-2008 12:02 PM ET (US)
Make sure your "kill switch" toggle is in the "run" position. |
| jmwilson |
posted 08-07-2008 11:36 AM ET (US)
I have a 1998 518 Ranger with the same year 200 HP EFI Mercury that I bought new in October 1997. The engine has about 6 gallons of oil ran through it. I was at the river a few weeks ago and the beep beep beep oil warning alarm started going off, so I loaded it up and took it to an authorized Ranger Mercury dealer. He called me yesterday and said my crank shaft oil pump gear was damaged. I have decided not to spend the 1200 to 1500 dollars to put another plastic gear on it. I am going to pre mix my oil and gas. If it is any help to you guys, here is what I am going to do. At a 50 to 1 ratio, I will multiply 2.56 times the gallons of gas I put into the tank. This will give me the ounces of oil I need to put into the gas tank to get the 50 to 1 ratio I need. The dealer I bought this rig from told me I would eventually have to make the decision to pay for an expensive oil pump repair bill or pre mix the oil and gas. I cannot believe Mercury used a plastic gear like this.
|
| jimh |
posted 08-07-2008 01:35 PM ET (US)
Mike--Thanks for your report of the failure of the plastic gear used to provide the mechanical drive for the oil pump in your Mercury motor's oil mixing system. Unfortunately your experience is fairly common, and, as you have learned, the remedy is very expensive. Replacing the existing plastic gear with a new plastic gear really does not eliminate the chance that it will fail again--it's just a plastic gear after all. You ought to consider changing to the electronic oil injection system that I mention above in this discussion. It is a much better solution than the OEM plastic gear, and much better than pre-mixing if you have a large volume tank. |
| njwhaler |
posted 08-08-2008 07:32 AM ET (US)
I am having problems with my 2002 Opti 135. The alarm went off (4 beeps every two min)and my reservoir (large reservoir in the transom, not the reserve on the motor) was full. Actually, I filled the oil reservoir, ran the boat for 10 min, then the alarm began to sound. Now, here is what concerns me. I called Mercury and the rep on the phone said 4 beeps can only be the sensor at the cap. He told me to tighten the cap. If that didnt work, then all I needed was a new cap/sensor. I asked him if it could be anything else because I am worried about oil not getting to the motor. He said no, if you have oil in the tank, then you are good to go. After reading the posts, I am concerned whether this guy has given me accurate information. |
| jmwilson |
posted 08-12-2008 01:47 AM ET (US)
I am going to pre mix my fuel for now jimh. I do a lot of fishing in stumpy lakes, so I do most of my running at an idle speed. If the motor bogs down as I get up on plane or the plugs foul easily, I am going to put the electronic oil ejection system you talked about on my engine. Thanks |
| DeeDee |
posted 09-14-2008 12:33 AM ET (US)
Hello Gentlemen...I hope you'll be able to share your wisdom on an issue I am having with my 95 Mercury 200hp. She started the..Beep...Beep...Beep, so I check the oil and it was a little low, so I filled up the remote tank. The reservoir under the cowl was full. Started her up and the beep..beep still continued. Shut her off and checked to make sure the sensor wasn’t stuck and then she wouldn’t start again. After 20 plus cranks, she started with the typical smoking that old Mercs do, but the beep...beep was still happening. So, I have her towed (to be safe), try to start her when we get back and again it takes 20 cranks. With her being so hard to start, it seems unlikely that this is a simple sensor issue. But what else would cause her to not want to crank? I’m a lady who needs some education on the matter so I can speak intelligently with the marine mechanic. Thank you guys for your help! |
| seabob4 |
posted 09-14-2008 03:52 PM ET (US)
There is a $16 fix for all [Mercury Oil Injection] problems. You can buy plate and gasket to cap off hole in the crankcase and just premix. You just have to remove the shaft, oil pump, oil tank, the module, and cap off. Premix 50:1 and [your are] done forever with these Mercury oil injection headaches. Stay on top of the carbon buildup with a couple cans of power tune every 100 hours. While [you are] at it, junk the spark advance module and the idle stabilizer, set the timing manually,and now your Mercury will last forever--as long as you keep an eye on the wiring.
|
| fleedermouse |
posted 09-19-2008 03:43 AM ET (US)
The referencd article refers to a "troubleshooting chart following" but I don't see one anywhere. Where am I missing it? I have had [a problem] with the warning horn emitting "BEEP-BEEP-BEEP" after repeated tries at starting or restarting engine. I get the initial beep when turning key to on position. I'm guessing that there are some tiny air bubbles forming or something because the problem goes away if I turn off the battery and give it a few minutes. Also, my oil consumption appears to be steady. |
| jimh |
posted 09-19-2008 09:05 AM ET (US)
From the precis of the article: "This brief excerpt is presented in order to provide a point of reference for comparison of the Mercury system of oil injection with other techniques used to accomplish mixing of oil and gasoline in two-cycle outboard motors." The article does not include the troubleshooting chart material from the Mercury literature. It is just an excerpt from the manual, not the whole manual. The article is not intended as a source of diagnostic advice, but rather as an illustration of how the system is designed. As mentioned previously regarding interpretation of the sounding of the aural alarm of the Mercury Oil Injection system: If the alarm is a BEEP BEEP BEEP, it is an oil alarm, and is caused by either: --oil level float switch in reservoir --magnetic sensor in oil mixing pump input drive shaft has stopped rotation --a defect in the alarm module itself (apparently a common failure) Because there are no indicators and the cadence of the alarm tone is the same, you have to deduce which sensor is causing the problem. |
| jimh |
posted 09-19-2008 09:10 AM ET (US)
I do not see a mechanism in which bubbles in the oil line can cause an alarm. As far as I can tell there is no sensor in the Mercury Oil Injection alarm system which actually monitors for flow of oil. The sensors only monitor for two conditions: --the oil level in the reservoir is low --the input shaft to the pump is not turning Neither of these sensors monitor the actual flow of oil. The only sensor which could be affected by air bubbles is the float sensor. If the oil in the reservoir were to become foamed, perhaps the float sensor might not operate properly. But I doubt that this is occurring since you describe the problem as happening at engine start, when the boat is not moving. |