2004 255 Conquest Hatch Repair

[ammarineli]

Figure 1 and 2 show one of several hatches from my [2004--PLEASE ALWAYS USE FOUR DIGITS TO INDICATE A YEAR] 255 CONQUEST that have delaminated.

Fig. 1. A hatch from a 2004 255 CONQUEST which has developed delamination between the top and bottom molded pieces.

hatch1a.jpg (31.72 KiB) Viewed 1917 times

Fig. 2. A extreme close-up view of a hatch with delamination.

hatch2a.jpg (58.09 KiB) Viewed 1917 times

Q1: what is the best method to repair hatches on a 2004 255 CONQUEST which have become delaminated?

I was thinking about separating the two [molded] pieces [of each hatch]; then sanding the interior side of each piece; then use epoxy resin as an adhesive, and; then clamp the two sections together [while the epoxy cures].

Q2: is my proposed method a good method?

ASIDE: the finish on the gel coat of this 2004 255 CONQUEST boat is terrible. Everywhere on the deck there are cracks in the non-skid pattern.

The condition of the gel coat [may lead to use of a product called] ALEXSEAL as a [new top coat on the hull and deck]. [Moderator's note: ALEXSEAL is a brand name applied to several products designed to be used as yacht coatings.]

[Phil T]

Q2: is my proposed method a good method?

The repair technique you describe is appropriate for the hatches.

If the hatches that are not failing have a green line indicating exposed fiberglass, give them a thin coat of sealant to prevent them absorbing moisture.

[jimh]

The delamination of the hatches on your 2004 255 CONQUEST is unfortunate.

In 2004 I happened to visit the Boston Whaler factory in Edgewater, Florida, and was given a guided tour. In the lamination area I saw the fabrication of hatch covers using what was described as a "closed-mold technique." Apparently this method created both finished sides of the hatch simultaneously. I believe some sort of resin injection method was used. This was described as a new process just put into use.

Perhaps these 19-year-old hatches on your boat that are delaminating were fabricated a year or so before the resin-infusion closed-mold method was initiated.

Regarding using epoxy resin to re-attach the two pieces of the hatch, I would expect you would need to use a thickened epoxy resin and then have some way for the excess resin to be able to exit when the two halves are clamped together. Perhaps a router bit could be used to create a channel around the perimeter of the bottom half, and excess resin could be squeezed out through the channel, and wiped flush.

Q3: what climate has the 2004 255 CONQUEST been used and stored in?

If you are a northern boater, and the boat was stored in ambient winter temperatures, there is always a possibility that some water that worked its way into the inside of the hatch was then frozen and expanded, causing the separation.

Also, the presence of rust stains seen in Figure 1 also tend to indicate some water intrusion.