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Author Topic:   Disc Brake Retrofit

Backlash posted 05-19-2000 07:46 PM ET (US)
My first post. Great site Jim! While I no longer own a "classic" whaler, I did own an '89 15' Super Sport (highly modified)which was replaced by a '91 21' Walkaround. I love my 21, but feel Boston Whaler made a major marketing blunder in dropping the older hull series, especially the outrages.
Just received my new 9" stainless disc brake kits to replace very rusted drum brakes. This looks like a fairly simple exchange of parts except for bleeding the brakes. How do you work the actuator? My drum brakes are 10" Dico free backing with an Attwood coupler. I believe I also need a reverse solenoid since I do not think my actuator has a reverse lock out lever or switch. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve
Alioop posted 05-19-2000 07:53 PM ET (US)
Backlash,go to championtrailers web site
www.championtrailers.com and click on the brake retrofit and then click on technical assitance link it has a lot of info. Alioop
lhg posted 05-19-2000 08:50 PM ET (US)
Steve: Glad to see you've arrived! Jim G visits, but won't post anything. What a coincidence. Two weeks ago I just had TieDown Engineering's SS disc brakes put on mine, along with 2 new axles. I assume that's the brand you've purchased. Only took the guy about 3 hours to do, with the boat off the trailer, and they seem like a nice installation and work very well. Had new brake lines done also. You will DEFINITELY need the backup soleniod, connected to the backup light circuit. There are two types, but get the one that is shown on this Championtrailer site. When activated, it blocks the fluid from pressurizing the brakes, and re-routes the fluid back into the master cylinder thru the fill cap. (You'll have to drill a hole and install a barb fitting). This type of design relieves pressure on the cylinder. I have this on mine and it's worked for years. There should be a lever on the top of your actuator to bleed the brakes, at least there is on my Dico Model 10. Slide a pipe or big wrench on it to work it. Begin with the bleed closest to the actuator and work to the farthest. The aluminium calipers furnished with those brakes have 2 bleed fittings instead of one. Call me one of these days and lets get some boating planned! Will be in FL over Mem Day.
Alioop, thanks for the tip on that website. They have some good stuff. The SS U-bolts and SS keel roller shafts for the Stoltz rollers (as recommended by Stoltz) are very hard to find.
Backlash posted 05-19-2000 09:07 PM ET (US)
Alioop, thanks for the tip on the Champion site...great step-by-step descriptions.
Hi Larry. Yes, I got the Tie Down brake kits and am amazed at the quality, even complete with new bearings and seals for $109 per wheel thru Boat U/S. Ordered them last Saturday and they even had free shipping. Yes, I think I'll replace my brake lines too. They are rusty in places, but nothing like the drum brakes are. Been trying to find pictures of the 15 to send Jim.

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Author	Topic: Disc Brake Retrofit
Backlash	posted 05-19-2000 07:46 PM ET (US) My first post. Great site Jim! While I no longer own a "classic" whaler, I did own an '89 15' Super Sport (highly modified)which was replaced by a '91 21' Walkaround. I love my 21, but feel Boston Whaler made a major marketing blunder in dropping the older hull series, especially the outrages. Just received my new 9" stainless disc brake kits to replace very rusted drum brakes. This looks like a fairly simple exchange of parts except for bleeding the brakes. How do you work the actuator? My drum brakes are 10" Dico free backing with an Attwood coupler. I believe I also need a reverse solenoid since I do not think my actuator has a reverse lock out lever or switch. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve
Alioop	posted 05-19-2000 07:53 PM ET (US) Backlash,go to championtrailers web site www.championtrailers.com and click on the brake retrofit and then click on technical assitance link it has a lot of info. Alioop
lhg	posted 05-19-2000 08:50 PM ET (US) Steve: Glad to see you've arrived! Jim G visits, but won't post anything. What a coincidence. Two weeks ago I just had TieDown Engineering's SS disc brakes put on mine, along with 2 new axles. I assume that's the brand you've purchased. Only took the guy about 3 hours to do, with the boat off the trailer, and they seem like a nice installation and work very well. Had new brake lines done also. You will DEFINITELY need the backup soleniod, connected to the backup light circuit. There are two types, but get the one that is shown on this Championtrailer site. When activated, it blocks the fluid from pressurizing the brakes, and re-routes the fluid back into the master cylinder thru the fill cap. (You'll have to drill a hole and install a barb fitting). This type of design relieves pressure on the cylinder. I have this on mine and it's worked for years. There should be a lever on the top of your actuator to bleed the brakes, at least there is on my Dico Model 10. Slide a pipe or big wrench on it to work it. Begin with the bleed closest to the actuator and work to the farthest. The aluminium calipers furnished with those brakes have 2 bleed fittings instead of one. Call me one of these days and lets get some boating planned! Will be in FL over Mem Day. Alioop, thanks for the tip on that website. They have some good stuff. The SS U-bolts and SS keel roller shafts for the Stoltz rollers (as recommended by Stoltz) are very hard to find.
Backlash	posted 05-19-2000 09:07 PM ET (US) Alioop, thanks for the tip on the Champion site...great step-by-step descriptions. Hi Larry. Yes, I got the Tie Down brake kits and am amazed at the quality, even complete with new bearings and seals for $109 per wheel thru Boat U/S. Ordered them last Saturday and they even had free shipping. Yes, I think I'll replace my brake lines too. They are rusty in places, but nothing like the drum brakes are. Been trying to find pictures of the 15 to send Jim.