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Author Topic:   I'm so lucky, I'm so lucky, I'm so lucky...

printjunky posted 08-12-2000 01:56 AM ET (US)
Being a displaced Maine/New Hampshire-ite I'm quite familiar with the well deserved BW rep. So just a few months after moving to the banks of the Mighty Miss (from N.Dakota, after moving from Maine in 86) I started daydreaming about finding a 13' BW so I could tool around on this majestic river in my backyard. Two weeks ago, when a coworker said he'd seen a whaler listed in an auction I thought it was either my chance or It'd sell too high for me. In my favor, I suspected they might not know what a Whaler is around here. (I ended up being right) Anyway, I figured I could swing about a grand for it. Then when I went to the auction and saw that it was a little beat up (mostly dirty) and saw what other vehicles were going for I figured I'd go up to about $750. Well there was only one other guy who was bidding against me for it and he bowed out at $260!!!!!!!!!! So I got my (non-wood) dream boat for $270!!!! OK enough gloating.
It's a sport model, I haven't checked the year yet. It came with two brochures, one of which is dated 1964 (the other is just a small flyer from the same ad campaign.) It has the bow chock. Other than several questionable hardware additions (anchor hand winch/roller, folding seat screwed to the pilot seat, fire ext. - now all removed) it's stock. It's overpowered (72 Evinrude 50hp - which I can't afford to replace) and there's a small (4 sqare inch) gash through the underneath and some good (but not through) keel scrapes that will need fixed and the mohogany is entirely shot (dry rot) (except for the down side of the locker cover)but for the money: HOLY COW!!!
Hang on, I DO have a point, really. Onto the first question (of what may be several, although I'm still making the rounds of the forums)
I don't intend to go nuts with a full resto-job. The gel goat (once it's rubbed out - I've done some tests already) will do fine. I'll patch the various unfortunate hardware holes and MAYBE eventually replace the rub rail. I am going to get all new wood, but may not replicate the original exactly. Which leads me to ask, for on the water trim purposes, I like the looks of the more centrally located console on the 40th ann. boat. Anyone have an opinion here? I'll usually be in her alone, so the original side position would give me a bit of a heel to starboard, wouldn't it? Does anyone have any measurements, or measured drawings for this console? I also intend to turn the center seat into some sort of additional storage locker. I can't justify the expense of the side rails, so those are off my list, but I really want the original stern light (just based on how cool the holders look) so I'll have to spring for that. And like I said re-do all the wood. I know it sounds sacreligious to some of you, but I probably won't use mahogany (or teak) maybe white oak varnished. It's a really good boat wood. (c'mon you can keep your flames to yourself, can't you? - the next owner (if there is one) can do the full on back to original deal...I just don't have the scratch)Anyway, just the question about the Anniversary model console for now. And to say it's nice to (finally after idolizing Whaler's for a long time) be a brother. (someone make sure to email a description of the secret handshake, a copy of the hazing manual and a photo of the club tattoo.)
Best regards all around,
Shawn
Clark Roberts posted 08-12-2000 06:53 AM ET (US)
Shawn, don't worry about the atwartship trim(list) caused by sitting all the way to starboard! Unless you weigh 300# or more the rock-solid little 13 won't care! Have fun on the mighty Miss... and happy Whalin'.. Clark
BD posted 08-12-2000 01:14 PM ET (US)
I love seeing the excitement of new found deals!!! If you want to keep it alive though, go for the original wood species...you are not going to kill your pocketbook againts what you propose...like a $0.60 per foor difference!!
Have fun, and play hard.
bigz posted 08-12-2000 02:22 PM ET (US)
Sounds you got a great little bargain there Shawn congratulations and welcome to the forum.
Hey white oak is superior wood -- yep the USS Constitution is made of it --- only a slight problem though --- chuckle you don't have a crew of able bodied seamen holy stoning the deck, painting and burnishing the ship daily --
The reason to use mahogany is the woods inherent ability to withstand weather with little maintenance not so with oak. But hey whatever floats your boat --- well varnished maintained white oak looks pretty nice just replaced the seats in a little 14 deep V Mirocraft aluminum with it -- Tom
Eric posted 08-12-2000 09:26 PM ET (US)
Don't worry about a side console causing a list. My first whaler was a 13 with a tiller 25. I had to sit at the side to steer and it didn't list with the 6 gal gas tank on the same side. These boats are very stable for the size.
printjunky posted 08-13-2000 06:30 PM ET (US)
Tom, once the wood's sealed with a good varnish, and all other things being equal (moisture content, wood condition, etc) aren't the effects of weather for the most part equalized whether it's mohogany or oak? And (with my VERY limited understanding of the physics of radiation energy) wouldn't the oak be slightly less affected by UV due to the lighter color (A negligable amount, I'm sure) I think the lighter color wood might look cool, a little less "yachtish" maybe - just to be different. Anyway, I'm just curious, as I'll avoid going with oak if there is a significant down side.
On a different note, I'm headed out for a vacation back "home" in New England, so if anyone knows any possible sources of parts (used, aftermarket, or a dealer that keeps a fair stock of whaler stuff) let me know. I'll be around Boston for a few hours, then off to the cape for a few days where my mom's running the Falmouth Road Race. Then the mountains of New Hampshire and a few trips to the pubs of Portland I'm sure. So If anyone knows any sources in those areas drop a line - the closest Whaler dealer to me here is North of Chicago, over 3hrs away -
Thanks again everyone ... can't wait to get back from vacation and get that calf in the water! (and this time that's not a euphamism for any slappable offense:-)
Shawn
bigz posted 08-14-2000 05:53 AM ET (US)
Shawn,
The key more than anything else is the maintenance of oak --- if mahogany or teak aren't babied they won't deteriorate like oak will --- white oak is relatively good compared to red for ability to handle weather but remember all the wood in your Whale is constantly subjected to the elements --- for the relative small difference in cost (you ain't using a lot of wood in a 13) why not just stay with the traditional mahogany -- your decision though and like I said what ever floats your boat do it ---
You got Nauset Marine in Orleans on the Cape and Russo's Marine up in the Boston area --- both long time dealers ----
Tom
UV with finished wood is more a function with the quality of finish than the wood itself --- you could use pine or poplar if you wanted --- chuckle --- well finished
lhg posted 08-14-2000 01:14 PM ET (US)
Oak is considered a poor choice for marine use, and rarely used any longer. It is not good in bending strength (such as for a thwart seat) and is not water resistant like teak or mahogany. Have you ever seen what happens to an oak floor when it's been subjected to water in unvarnished areas?
bigz posted 08-14-2000 01:39 PM ET (US)
Matter of fact Lawrence I have, however we weren't speaking of unfinished wood. I do believe Shawn understands the need for a good finish on oak if he does elect to go use it over mahgany --- chuckle chuckle --- thanks though for the warning Larry -- Tom

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Author	Topic: I'm so lucky, I'm so lucky, I'm so lucky...
printjunky	posted 08-12-2000 01:56 AM ET (US) Being a displaced Maine/New Hampshire-ite I'm quite familiar with the well deserved BW rep. So just a few months after moving to the banks of the Mighty Miss (from N.Dakota, after moving from Maine in 86) I started daydreaming about finding a 13' BW so I could tool around on this majestic river in my backyard. Two weeks ago, when a coworker said he'd seen a whaler listed in an auction I thought it was either my chance or It'd sell too high for me. In my favor, I suspected they might not know what a Whaler is around here. (I ended up being right) Anyway, I figured I could swing about a grand for it. Then when I went to the auction and saw that it was a little beat up (mostly dirty) and saw what other vehicles were going for I figured I'd go up to about $750. Well there was only one other guy who was bidding against me for it and he bowed out at $260!!!!!!!!!! So I got my (non-wood) dream boat for $270!!!! OK enough gloating. It's a sport model, I haven't checked the year yet. It came with two brochures, one of which is dated 1964 (the other is just a small flyer from the same ad campaign.) It has the bow chock. Other than several questionable hardware additions (anchor hand winch/roller, folding seat screwed to the pilot seat, fire ext. - now all removed) it's stock. It's overpowered (72 Evinrude 50hp - which I can't afford to replace) and there's a small (4 sqare inch) gash through the underneath and some good (but not through) keel scrapes that will need fixed and the mohogany is entirely shot (dry rot) (except for the down side of the locker cover)but for the money: HOLY COW!!! Hang on, I DO have a point, really. Onto the first question (of what may be several, although I'm still making the rounds of the forums) I don't intend to go nuts with a full resto-job. The gel goat (once it's rubbed out - I've done some tests already) will do fine. I'll patch the various unfortunate hardware holes and MAYBE eventually replace the rub rail. I am going to get all new wood, but may not replicate the original exactly. Which leads me to ask, for on the water trim purposes, I like the looks of the more centrally located console on the 40th ann. boat. Anyone have an opinion here? I'll usually be in her alone, so the original side position would give me a bit of a heel to starboard, wouldn't it? Does anyone have any measurements, or measured drawings for this console? I also intend to turn the center seat into some sort of additional storage locker. I can't justify the expense of the side rails, so those are off my list, but I really want the original stern light (just based on how cool the holders look) so I'll have to spring for that. And like I said re-do all the wood. I know it sounds sacreligious to some of you, but I probably won't use mahogany (or teak) maybe white oak varnished. It's a really good boat wood. (c'mon you can keep your flames to yourself, can't you? - the next owner (if there is one) can do the full on back to original deal...I just don't have the scratch)Anyway, just the question about the Anniversary model console for now. And to say it's nice to (finally after idolizing Whaler's for a long time) be a brother. (someone make sure to email a description of the secret handshake, a copy of the hazing manual and a photo of the club tattoo.) Best regards all around, Shawn
Clark Roberts	posted 08-12-2000 06:53 AM ET (US) Shawn, don't worry about the atwartship trim(list) caused by sitting all the way to starboard! Unless you weigh 300# or more the rock-solid little 13 won't care! Have fun on the mighty Miss... and happy Whalin'.. Clark
BD	posted 08-12-2000 01:14 PM ET (US) I love seeing the excitement of new found deals!!! If you want to keep it alive though, go for the original wood species...you are not going to kill your pocketbook againts what you propose...like a $0.60 per foor difference!! Have fun, and play hard.
bigz	posted 08-12-2000 02:22 PM ET (US) Sounds you got a great little bargain there Shawn congratulations and welcome to the forum. Hey white oak is superior wood -- yep the USS Constitution is made of it --- only a slight problem though --- chuckle you don't have a crew of able bodied seamen holy stoning the deck, painting and burnishing the ship daily -- The reason to use mahogany is the woods inherent ability to withstand weather with little maintenance not so with oak. But hey whatever floats your boat --- well varnished maintained white oak looks pretty nice just replaced the seats in a little 14 deep V Mirocraft aluminum with it -- Tom
Eric	posted 08-12-2000 09:26 PM ET (US) Don't worry about a side console causing a list. My first whaler was a 13 with a tiller 25. I had to sit at the side to steer and it didn't list with the 6 gal gas tank on the same side. These boats are very stable for the size.
printjunky	posted 08-13-2000 06:30 PM ET (US) Tom, once the wood's sealed with a good varnish, and all other things being equal (moisture content, wood condition, etc) aren't the effects of weather for the most part equalized whether it's mohogany or oak? And (with my VERY limited understanding of the physics of radiation energy) wouldn't the oak be slightly less affected by UV due to the lighter color (A negligable amount, I'm sure) I think the lighter color wood might look cool, a little less "yachtish" maybe - just to be different. Anyway, I'm just curious, as I'll avoid going with oak if there is a significant down side. On a different note, I'm headed out for a vacation back "home" in New England, so if anyone knows any possible sources of parts (used, aftermarket, or a dealer that keeps a fair stock of whaler stuff) let me know. I'll be around Boston for a few hours, then off to the cape for a few days where my mom's running the Falmouth Road Race. Then the mountains of New Hampshire and a few trips to the pubs of Portland I'm sure. So If anyone knows any sources in those areas drop a line - the closest Whaler dealer to me here is North of Chicago, over 3hrs away - Thanks again everyone ... can't wait to get back from vacation and get that calf in the water! (and this time that's not a euphamism for any slappable offense:-) Shawn
bigz	posted 08-14-2000 05:53 AM ET (US) Shawn, The key more than anything else is the maintenance of oak --- if mahogany or teak aren't babied they won't deteriorate like oak will --- white oak is relatively good compared to red for ability to handle weather but remember all the wood in your Whale is constantly subjected to the elements --- for the relative small difference in cost (you ain't using a lot of wood in a 13) why not just stay with the traditional mahogany -- your decision though and like I said what ever floats your boat do it --- You got Nauset Marine in Orleans on the Cape and Russo's Marine up in the Boston area --- both long time dealers ---- Tom UV with finished wood is more a function with the quality of finish than the wood itself --- you could use pine or poplar if you wanted --- chuckle --- well finished
lhg	posted 08-14-2000 01:14 PM ET (US) Oak is considered a poor choice for marine use, and rarely used any longer. It is not good in bending strength (such as for a thwart seat) and is not water resistant like teak or mahogany. Have you ever seen what happens to an oak floor when it's been subjected to water in unvarnished areas?
bigz	posted 08-14-2000 01:39 PM ET (US) Matter of fact Lawrence I have, however we weren't speaking of unfinished wood. I do believe Shawn understands the need for a good finish on oak if he does elect to go use it over mahgany --- chuckle chuckle --- thanks though for the warning Larry -- Tom