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Author Topic:   How to raise a RPS?

Eagleman posted 04-18-2001 12:33 PM ET (US)
I heard of a couple guys that have raised their RPS to accomodate a cooler underneath. It sounds like a cool idea(sorry) and should also give a the operator a better view while seated at the helm. I would like to find out whats involved to make the change. Thanks
Eagleman
dfmcintyre posted 04-19-2001 01:06 PM ET (US)
I raised both the RPS and console using two different methods:
For the seat, I used multiple 1" pieces of black Starboard, cut along the same size or outline of the vertical RPS uprights. Just used longer screws to hold in place.
For the console, I laminated multiple 1" pieces of mahog togeather, slightly longer and wider then the "foot" of the console. routed a soft edge on the top edge, all four sides. Coated with West resin, and painted the same color as the console.
Drilled through and mounted with 3M 5200 into the floor. The console was mounted to the risers with seperate wood screws.
Don
lhg posted 04-19-2001 08:42 PM ET (US)
Russ - If you go to the Rendezvous section, Page 1, you will see a picture of my raised RPS in the 18 outrage. I used 3 layers of solid 2" teak blocking, oiled, to raise the seat 6". No new holes had to be drilled in the floor. This allows an Igloo 72 qt cooler, with cushion so it can be pulled out and used as a seat, to sit in Whaler's "starboard" cooler cleats. Works nicely, and no bungees are necessary to hold the cooler in place.
The underseat cooler detail is highly recommend for anyone with an Outrage and RPS installed. But the raised seat and console would also be very nice in a Montauk. Always thought the RPS was proportioned for kids. If you want to get the feel for the additional seating height, just put a couple of boat cushions on it and give it a try. Most like the higher seating height and visibility when seated. With the console raised, the higher wheel height, and more wind shelter, is also nice.
If the console is not going to be raised the recommended 4", than I would only raise the seat 4". But the 72 qt cooler won't fit under.
I have sent some pictures of my block details to JimH, like Don M has done, and maybe (hint hint) he'll post them!
Eagleman posted 04-20-2001 11:13 AM ET (US)
lhg,
I checked out the Rendezvous section page 1 and got the idea how you've handled raising your RPS. Did you use longer s/s screws to go through all three pieces of teak(6") into the original deck holes or did you fasten the first piece of teak into the original deck holes then offset the screw holes into the second piece and do the same again for the third piece. This should allow to get a good bite with each of your s/s screws into the each teak piece. Also if your know of someone interested in the 25 Cuddy that I discussed with you call me 1-920-686-9096 9-4PM I'm going to pass on it.
Eagleman
lhg posted 04-20-2001 02:24 PM ET (US)
Russ - Looking from the side, my seat risers look like an upside down "U". Each has a front and rear 4" high block, about 3" x 4" in plan (laminated out of two 2" pieces, and reinforced with screws also). These are screwed into the original seat holes, with deeply countersunk screws, about 2" long. Then a 2" thick top plate spanning across the blocks, screwed to the blocks with 3/4" countersunk 3" screws. The seat then screws into the top plate, covering the other screws used. All edges are finished with a 1/4" 45 degree bevel, including the vertical edges of the blocks.
Same system used to raise the console, but blocks are only 2 1/2" high, and top plate is 1 1/2" thick. These dimensions would also work if the seat is only to be raised 4".
Send me an e-mail if you want a copy of my drawings. I used solid teak, oiled. Black Starboard could be used, but with 6" height, would require a lot of laminations.
raygun posted 12-13-2002 04:54 PM ET (US)
Hey lhg, would it be possible for me to also get a copy of your drawings?

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Author	Topic: How to raise a RPS?
Eagleman	posted 04-18-2001 12:33 PM ET (US) I heard of a couple guys that have raised their RPS to accomodate a cooler underneath. It sounds like a cool idea(sorry) and should also give a the operator a better view while seated at the helm. I would like to find out whats involved to make the change. Thanks Eagleman
dfmcintyre	posted 04-19-2001 01:06 PM ET (US) I raised both the RPS and console using two different methods: For the seat, I used multiple 1" pieces of black Starboard, cut along the same size or outline of the vertical RPS uprights. Just used longer screws to hold in place. For the console, I laminated multiple 1" pieces of mahog togeather, slightly longer and wider then the "foot" of the console. routed a soft edge on the top edge, all four sides. Coated with West resin, and painted the same color as the console. Drilled through and mounted with 3M 5200 into the floor. The console was mounted to the risers with seperate wood screws. Don
lhg	posted 04-19-2001 08:42 PM ET (US) Russ - If you go to the Rendezvous section, Page 1, you will see a picture of my raised RPS in the 18 outrage. I used 3 layers of solid 2" teak blocking, oiled, to raise the seat 6". No new holes had to be drilled in the floor. This allows an Igloo 72 qt cooler, with cushion so it can be pulled out and used as a seat, to sit in Whaler's "starboard" cooler cleats. Works nicely, and no bungees are necessary to hold the cooler in place. The underseat cooler detail is highly recommend for anyone with an Outrage and RPS installed. But the raised seat and console would also be very nice in a Montauk. Always thought the RPS was proportioned for kids. If you want to get the feel for the additional seating height, just put a couple of boat cushions on it and give it a try. Most like the higher seating height and visibility when seated. With the console raised, the higher wheel height, and more wind shelter, is also nice. If the console is not going to be raised the recommended 4", than I would only raise the seat 4". But the 72 qt cooler won't fit under. I have sent some pictures of my block details to JimH, like Don M has done, and maybe (hint hint) he'll post them!
Eagleman	posted 04-20-2001 11:13 AM ET (US) lhg, I checked out the Rendezvous section page 1 and got the idea how you've handled raising your RPS. Did you use longer s/s screws to go through all three pieces of teak(6") into the original deck holes or did you fasten the first piece of teak into the original deck holes then offset the screw holes into the second piece and do the same again for the third piece. This should allow to get a good bite with each of your s/s screws into the each teak piece. Also if your know of someone interested in the 25 Cuddy that I discussed with you call me 1-920-686-9096 9-4PM I'm going to pass on it. Eagleman
lhg	posted 04-20-2001 02:24 PM ET (US) Russ - Looking from the side, my seat risers look like an upside down "U". Each has a front and rear 4" high block, about 3" x 4" in plan (laminated out of two 2" pieces, and reinforced with screws also). These are screwed into the original seat holes, with deeply countersunk screws, about 2" long. Then a 2" thick top plate spanning across the blocks, screwed to the blocks with 3/4" countersunk 3" screws. The seat then screws into the top plate, covering the other screws used. All edges are finished with a 1/4" 45 degree bevel, including the vertical edges of the blocks. Same system used to raise the console, but blocks are only 2 1/2" high, and top plate is 1 1/2" thick. These dimensions would also work if the seat is only to be raised 4". Send me an e-mail if you want a copy of my drawings. I used solid teak, oiled. Black Starboard could be used, but with 6" height, would require a lot of laminations.
raygun	posted 12-13-2002 04:54 PM ET (US) Hey lhg, would it be possible for me to also get a copy of your drawings?