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Author Topic:   Trailer Upgrade Finished

kamml posted 05-09-2002 08:41 PM ET (US)
Well the trailer upgrade for my 77 Montauk is complete. The US government purchased the boat with an Ez-Loader roller trailer in 77 and it came with it when I purchased the hull a little over a year ago. Today my whaler is sitting on a welded, galvanized, disk braked, 13" trailer tired, 4 bunk style trailer, with 4' long side guide bunks. I am a little perplexed how to lock down the Titan screw down style coupler when it is attached to the truck. Previously I used a cross lock on the cam over latch on the Ez-Loader but this screw down style doesn't seem to have a locking device of any kind beside an anti- reversing latch. Any suggestions? The dealer assured me that my disk brake coupler didn't require a reversing solenoid - wrong, if I use any speed above crawl in reverse the wheels lock up. I have to order the necessary anti-reverse solenoid from Champion Trailers and do that install my self. The calipers are installed with the bleed screws on the back of the axle, I will remount them to the top to make the necessary bleeding a little easier. I am trying the bronze naval metal brake discs as opposed to the stainless, it makes some sense that the naval metal should hold up better over time than the stainless in saltwater, but only time will tell. Some of the fastners on the trailer don't quite have full thread engagement, so some added wrenching is in order there too. I have no forward hull support execept for the bow eye, the keel bunks extend about 8-10ft along the keel but after that it is free floating to the bow eye. I have seen cross trailer frame pvc tubing-v style supports on other trailers that I think would work, any suggestions or alternatives? The other 2 bunks support about 5 feet of the stern area between the keel bunk and rest against the inside of the sponsons. I hope this will tend to ensure easier loading even in strong tide conditions like at the 278 landing near Hilton Head. I had the dealer move the winch base forward about three inches to ensure full support for the transom. When looking at the hull now where the previous rollers were in contact there is some minor visible wear, a couple of very shallow depressions and in one, a gelcoat crack about 2" long. So I have a little more trailer work to do, but the primary trailer problem is solved for this Montauk's hull. Thanks to the board for all the good advice on trailers. Ken
lhg posted 05-09-2002 09:09 PM ET (US)
There are two styles of disc brake backup solenoids, a cheap one and a good one. This is from information I recieved from Unique Functional Products, makers of Bearing Buddies, among other things. Unique, obviously, sells both types, but highly recommends the better one. They will sell to you directly.
The cheap one operates on the principle of simply cutting off the flow of fluid right behind the actuator, kind of guillotine style. This, I am told, works, but will damage the actuator mechanism with the back pressure created. The fluid has no place to go, and the actuator can't work properly, building up high pressures on the fittings. These are the ones West Marine, Champion and others are selling.
The better, more expensive, alternative is to get the "return flow" type, which has a brake fluid return tube back into the fill cap of the reservoir of the unit. When activated by the back-up light circuit, the solenoid closes the main line, and opens up the return flow line, pushing the brake fluid "around the circle" right back into the reservoir.
It's very slick and causes no back pressure on the actuator or brake line connections. I have been using this style for many years now, and with no operational problems or leaks.
Disc brakes are a problem when the boat is in for service on the trailer. Invariably, the boat yard jockeys PUSH the boats around backwards with their fork lifts, totally locking up the disc brakes. Most are not yet experienced with disc brakes. Be sure to make a block of wood, which you can hang over the actuator with a bungee or something, to manually block the actuator action.
jimh posted 05-10-2002 01:26 AM ET (US)
Larry,
That is an excellent point about a boat being moved around at a marina yard. My boat is stored at a marina and they use a fork-lift truck with a ball mounted on the fork to move the trailers around all the time.
Without the electrically operated reverse solenoid being actuated, a trailer with disk brakes would get quite a work out being moved in the yard that way.

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Author	Topic: Trailer Upgrade Finished
kamml	posted 05-09-2002 08:41 PM ET (US) Well the trailer upgrade for my 77 Montauk is complete. The US government purchased the boat with an Ez-Loader roller trailer in 77 and it came with it when I purchased the hull a little over a year ago. Today my whaler is sitting on a welded, galvanized, disk braked, 13" trailer tired, 4 bunk style trailer, with 4' long side guide bunks. I am a little perplexed how to lock down the Titan screw down style coupler when it is attached to the truck. Previously I used a cross lock on the cam over latch on the Ez-Loader but this screw down style doesn't seem to have a locking device of any kind beside an anti- reversing latch. Any suggestions? The dealer assured me that my disk brake coupler didn't require a reversing solenoid - wrong, if I use any speed above crawl in reverse the wheels lock up. I have to order the necessary anti-reverse solenoid from Champion Trailers and do that install my self. The calipers are installed with the bleed screws on the back of the axle, I will remount them to the top to make the necessary bleeding a little easier. I am trying the bronze naval metal brake discs as opposed to the stainless, it makes some sense that the naval metal should hold up better over time than the stainless in saltwater, but only time will tell. Some of the fastners on the trailer don't quite have full thread engagement, so some added wrenching is in order there too. I have no forward hull support execept for the bow eye, the keel bunks extend about 8-10ft along the keel but after that it is free floating to the bow eye. I have seen cross trailer frame pvc tubing-v style supports on other trailers that I think would work, any suggestions or alternatives? The other 2 bunks support about 5 feet of the stern area between the keel bunk and rest against the inside of the sponsons. I hope this will tend to ensure easier loading even in strong tide conditions like at the 278 landing near Hilton Head. I had the dealer move the winch base forward about three inches to ensure full support for the transom. When looking at the hull now where the previous rollers were in contact there is some minor visible wear, a couple of very shallow depressions and in one, a gelcoat crack about 2" long. So I have a little more trailer work to do, but the primary trailer problem is solved for this Montauk's hull. Thanks to the board for all the good advice on trailers. Ken
lhg	posted 05-09-2002 09:09 PM ET (US) There are two styles of disc brake backup solenoids, a cheap one and a good one. This is from information I recieved from Unique Functional Products, makers of Bearing Buddies, among other things. Unique, obviously, sells both types, but highly recommends the better one. They will sell to you directly. The cheap one operates on the principle of simply cutting off the flow of fluid right behind the actuator, kind of guillotine style. This, I am told, works, but will damage the actuator mechanism with the back pressure created. The fluid has no place to go, and the actuator can't work properly, building up high pressures on the fittings. These are the ones West Marine, Champion and others are selling. The better, more expensive, alternative is to get the "return flow" type, which has a brake fluid return tube back into the fill cap of the reservoir of the unit. When activated by the back-up light circuit, the solenoid closes the main line, and opens up the return flow line, pushing the brake fluid "around the circle" right back into the reservoir. It's very slick and causes no back pressure on the actuator or brake line connections. I have been using this style for many years now, and with no operational problems or leaks. Disc brakes are a problem when the boat is in for service on the trailer. Invariably, the boat yard jockeys PUSH the boats around backwards with their fork lifts, totally locking up the disc brakes. Most are not yet experienced with disc brakes. Be sure to make a block of wood, which you can hang over the actuator with a bungee or something, to manually block the actuator action.
jimh	posted 05-10-2002 01:26 AM ET (US) Larry, That is an excellent point about a boat being moved around at a marina yard. My boat is stored at a marina and they use a fork-lift truck with a ball mounted on the fork to move the trailers around all the time. Without the electrically operated reverse solenoid being actuated, a trailer with disk brakes would get quite a work out being moved in the yard that way.