help! installing rub rail on 1967 17 montauk

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Author Topic:   help! installing rub rail on 1967 17 montauk

sixpackbee posted 06-17-2002 09:20 AM ET (US)
help out if you can guys???
I have a 167 boston whaler 17 montauk.
I got a new rub rail kit for my dealer...
comes in 3 pieces.
a flexiable piece that is thge first piece to go on...
put 5200 on boat edge and then this gets taped on to hold it while it sets up...
piece 2 is the problem.... this piece is to be screwed
onto the top of the first and the black rubber section feeds into it...problem is this piece..the piece that holds the black is so rigid it will not straighten out???? I was told to lay it out in the sun...yeah right..on mars? anyway what is the trick to doing this??
inserting the black sectiojn in this will be no problem..I just need to get this unwound and wrap it around the hull and afix it will ss screws...
thanks, doug

Tom W Clark posted 06-17-2002 09:49 AM ET (US)
sixpackbee,
Do not glue the "shim" with 5200! You'll never get it off in future if you need to replace it again.
The shim is held on only by the receiver track. Just tape the shim in place until the receiver is riveted to the hull.
To straighten out the receiver track you need to stretch it out in the sun and let it relax. It will straighten if you give it time and it's hot enough. You can use a hair dryer or heat gun to help it out. It is VERY important that the receiver track is straightened out before you rivet it to the hull. A curled receiver track will remain bumpy on the hull if it is applied this way.
Ger posted 06-17-2002 03:42 PM ET (US)
I feel your pain!! I recently installed a new rub rail on my '72 and it ain't no picnic! Laying it in the sun does help, but you definitely need a heat gun. I don't think a hair dryer puts out enough heat. If you can get help it'll be easier but I did mine myself. The secret is don't get discouraged, do a little at a time, buy yourself a few Qick-clamps large enough to span the rail. Then its heat,clamp,rivet till you get all 37 feet done! . I used the rivets that came with the kit, but others have used screws. Then you'll need about 3 days till your hands recover! If you need more info, email me! Ger
Free Willy posted 06-17-2002 08:37 PM ET (US)
I just did my 13' and had the same problem. I can't find the post now, but I read somewhere to soak it in the bathtub, the hottest water you can draw. It worked like a charm.
I drilled a hole in each end,(before soaking) tied one end to a tree and the other to a block and tackle. Stretch it out on the grass. I did mine by myself and Ger is right about the hands. Good luck !
sixpackbee posted 06-18-2002 08:07 AM ET (US)
thanks guys for the good advise...
I will be trying it this weekend.
I will post a picture when I am done...
thanks, doug
jimh posted 06-18-2002 09:01 AM ET (US)
[This would have been a great topic for the REPAIRS/MODs forum--jimh.]
dburton posted 06-18-2002 12:21 PM ET (US)
If you still have the old rail, I would suggest experimenting heating the receiving track with the heat gun. It heats up much quicker than you might expect. Practice making it pliable and feel how hot it is with your hand (careful, don’t burn your self). If you overheat the track and then clamp it, you will distort the shape of the track.
If you don’t have the old receiving track you might have an extra foot of new.
I did my 13 sport last weekend. It came out great but as I almost always do, I rushed into the project without taking the time to think it through.
Doug

Roarque posted 06-18-2002 01:21 PM ET (US)
I wasted a very hot day last July doing this job and realized there is a business opportunity for some enterprising students. Call the business Rub Rails R Us and go around installing these coiled up enigmas for the summer. Once you do one then its easy to do again. By the end of the summer, they'd be in great shape and have lots of coin to return to school. Oh yeah, and two people are better than one.
I feel your pain amigo
sixpackbee posted 06-21-2002 08:03 AM ET (US)
ok guys I must thank you for your help and advise.
last night my girlfriend and myself finished putting on the rub rail kit.
I went to home depot and bought 4 6 inch c clamps..6 dollars each.
we got to the boat fired up our honda generator and she started heating the center coiled section with the hair dryer..we worked on about 2 to 3 feet at a time...it went better than I thought.I put ss screws every 6 to 8 inches or so..then removed all but the last clamp and filled in the gaps with another screw..
now for the black part..started at the transom and put the bottom lip of the black section into the center section...working it down and needing it into the center section..used a rubber mallet to finish it off and make it conform real nice...man it looks good..I bet you we did it in less than 2 hours and had never done one before..it looks like a pro did it..I took some pictures and will post them later...
I am just wondering what that would have cost to have done at a marina or at the dealership???
thanks, doug

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Author	Topic: help! installing rub rail on 1967 17 montauk
sixpackbee	posted 06-17-2002 09:20 AM ET (US) help out if you can guys??? I have a 167 boston whaler 17 montauk. I got a new rub rail kit for my dealer... comes in 3 pieces. a flexiable piece that is thge first piece to go on... put 5200 on boat edge and then this gets taped on to hold it while it sets up... piece 2 is the problem.... this piece is to be screwed onto the top of the first and the black rubber section feeds into it...problem is this piece..the piece that holds the black is so rigid it will not straighten out???? I was told to lay it out in the sun...yeah right..on mars? anyway what is the trick to doing this?? inserting the black sectiojn in this will be no problem..I just need to get this unwound and wrap it around the hull and afix it will ss screws... thanks, doug
Tom W Clark	posted 06-17-2002 09:49 AM ET (US) sixpackbee, Do not glue the "shim" with 5200! You'll never get it off in future if you need to replace it again. The shim is held on only by the receiver track. Just tape the shim in place until the receiver is riveted to the hull. To straighten out the receiver track you need to stretch it out in the sun and let it relax. It will straighten if you give it time and it's hot enough. You can use a hair dryer or heat gun to help it out. It is VERY important that the receiver track is straightened out before you rivet it to the hull. A curled receiver track will remain bumpy on the hull if it is applied this way.
Ger	posted 06-17-2002 03:42 PM ET (US) I feel your pain!! I recently installed a new rub rail on my '72 and it ain't no picnic! Laying it in the sun does help, but you definitely need a heat gun. I don't think a hair dryer puts out enough heat. If you can get help it'll be easier but I did mine myself. The secret is don't get discouraged, do a little at a time, buy yourself a few Qick-clamps large enough to span the rail. Then its heat,clamp,rivet till you get all 37 feet done! . I used the rivets that came with the kit, but others have used screws. Then you'll need about 3 days till your hands recover! If you need more info, email me! Ger
Free Willy	posted 06-17-2002 08:37 PM ET (US) I just did my 13' and had the same problem. I can't find the post now, but I read somewhere to soak it in the bathtub, the hottest water you can draw. It worked like a charm. I drilled a hole in each end,(before soaking) tied one end to a tree and the other to a block and tackle. Stretch it out on the grass. I did mine by myself and Ger is right about the hands. Good luck !
sixpackbee	posted 06-18-2002 08:07 AM ET (US) thanks guys for the good advise... I will be trying it this weekend. I will post a picture when I am done... thanks, doug
jimh	posted 06-18-2002 09:01 AM ET (US) [This would have been a great topic for the REPAIRS/MODs forum--jimh.]
dburton	posted 06-18-2002 12:21 PM ET (US) If you still have the old rail, I would suggest experimenting heating the receiving track with the heat gun. It heats up much quicker than you might expect. Practice making it pliable and feel how hot it is with your hand (careful, don’t burn your self). If you overheat the track and then clamp it, you will distort the shape of the track. If you don’t have the old receiving track you might have an extra foot of new. I did my 13 sport last weekend. It came out great but as I almost always do, I rushed into the project without taking the time to think it through. Doug
Roarque	posted 06-18-2002 01:21 PM ET (US) I wasted a very hot day last July doing this job and realized there is a business opportunity for some enterprising students. Call the business Rub Rails R Us and go around installing these coiled up enigmas for the summer. Once you do one then its easy to do again. By the end of the summer, they'd be in great shape and have lots of coin to return to school. Oh yeah, and two people are better than one. I feel your pain amigo
sixpackbee	posted 06-21-2002 08:03 AM ET (US) ok guys I must thank you for your help and advise. last night my girlfriend and myself finished putting on the rub rail kit. I went to home depot and bought 4 6 inch c clamps..6 dollars each. we got to the boat fired up our honda generator and she started heating the center coiled section with the hair dryer..we worked on about 2 to 3 feet at a time...it went better than I thought.I put ss screws every 6 to 8 inches or so..then removed all but the last clamp and filled in the gaps with another screw.. now for the black part..started at the transom and put the bottom lip of the black section into the center section...working it down and needing it into the center section..used a rubber mallet to finish it off and make it conform real nice...man it looks good..I bet you we did it in less than 2 hours and had never done one before..it looks like a pro did it..I took some pictures and will post them later... I am just wondering what that would have cost to have done at a marina or at the dealership??? thanks, doug