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Author Topic:   Optimax 135 engine
MJohnston posted 07-20-2002 12:30 PM ET (US)   Profile for MJohnston   Send Email to MJohnston  
My 2000 Optimax 135hp engine with low hours purchased with a new Whaler overheats at low RPM, shutting down the engine but cools down when going rapidly to high speed. The dealer said there was a kit to fix the problem, but installation has not worked. Has anyone else encountered this problem?
KeysNole posted 07-21-2002 12:13 AM ET (US)     Profile for KeysNole  Send Email to KeysNole     
You might want to check out www.floridasportsman.com and do a search on there. There have been a lot of posts (good and bad) about the Optimax.

The main problem most people have encountered is the fact that when the engine has problems, most mechanics don't have the knowledge to fix the complicated motors. Now that more mechanics are becoming familiar, the motors are getting better long term reviews.

InHerNet posted 07-22-2002 07:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for InHerNet  Send Email to InHerNet     
MJohnston- I have two 2000 135 Digital Optimax Saltwater series and both had the same problem early. The dealer changed the cooling system and they have been trouble free since then. I had one recall on the fuel system that I do not remember what it was now. I do know that it was a factory recall. I would keep on the dealer until the problem is resolved.
frank_king posted 08-25-2002 01:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for frank_king  Send Email to frank_king     
change the waterpump impeller......
i've seen 2 opti's have the same problem and i fixed them with new impellers
frank_king posted 08-25-2002 01:13 AM ET (US)     Profile for frank_king  Send Email to frank_king     
your fuel rail recall was a tracker valve problem that was corrected....it keeps the fuel pressure and air pressure 10% dif between the two of them
jimp posted 08-25-2002 12:14 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimp  Send Email to jimp     
MJohnston -

Not your specific problem, but my 1990 Johnson 225 used to have the temperature climb rapidly at idle & low speeds and it wasn't until I opened it up to +5,000 RPM that the temp would go down (it never shut down by itself). My mechanic told me to put the "newer" model thermostats in ($54 total). The problem at low speed still persisted, but would go away at cruising speed without having to open it up. I did the swap of thermostats myself.

One thing to check - do you have the right/best themostats?

JimP

bsmotril posted 08-25-2002 06:38 PM ET (US)     Profile for bsmotril  Send Email to bsmotril     
I have a pair of Opti 135s on a conquest. There is an operating range between 1400-2000 rpm on my boat where the temp will climb rapidly up to the 75% mark on the gauge. Fortunately this is the same speed where the boat is plowing, so I don't spend much time there. Soon as they hit 3000 rpm, the poppet valves open and the gauge drops down to the first tick mark. I just don't run the boat in that range. When the water pump impellers start to wear, you'll see it climb higher and higher in that range. I just put new impellers in mine and now they barely climb over 1/2 in that operating range. I also suspect this is the operating range where the engine is running very lean, so I just avoid it at no great loss. Once the boat comes on plane, I can trim in, lower the tabs, and stay on plane down to 2800 rpm with no problems whatsoever.
BillS
Ed Stone posted 08-28-2002 10:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for Ed Stone  Send Email to Ed Stone     
Mjohnston,
What kit are you talking about? What temp
is the alarm going off at?When you say low rpm's,is that at or below 1000 rpm's.
Ed Stone

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