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  Dungeness crabbing in Montauk 17'

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Author Topic:   Dungeness crabbing in Montauk 17'
ratherwhalering posted 11-26-2002 03:35 PM ET (US)   Profile for ratherwhalering   Send Email to ratherwhalering  
I was wondering if anyone on the forum has been crabbing outsude the Golden Gate, and if so, what types of traps they use. I'm looking at buying some used, square 18" by 24" Danielson traps, because they break down and seem to stow away better than circular traps. Has anyone used the circular traps on a montauk? If so, were how many, and where did you store them? Are they harder to haul and manage than the square traps? Lastly, any other tips are greatly appreciated!

--Rob--

Taylor posted 11-26-2002 07:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for Taylor  Send Email to Taylor     
My advice pertains to Puget Sound, don't know about the Golden Gate.

I use some light duty breakdown rectangular traps. I'm not sure who makes them. They are the standard off the shelf item around here in the Northwest. We usually only drop two or three at a time. We take them out assembled, weighted and already baited. Otherwise I'd have to get them ready on board with a couple of kids and the dog 'helping' while the chop tossing me around. This is not high on my list of fun things. In theory, I could put three on edge across the boat in the stern, but it never seems to work out that way. I'm always getting two in flat and tossing the other at an angle between them.

I've been told that round traps catch better because the crabs find the doors as the work there way around the trap, but I've not been down there to watch, we'll have to ask Triblet.

For bait we have used expired cans of salmon (but that's limited to stock on hand), turkey legs (seasonal), fish heads, and big clams. You need to tie the bait in, or put it in a tied in mesh bag otherwise it seems to disappeare. I think the better the bait the bigger the males you catch. If we drop the traps down a second time the old bait seems to catch just females or undersize males. Watch out for those big males, they can be pretty fiesty!

I generally drop in about 90' of water.

It was hauling crab traps from a little dinghy that put the whaler idea over the top with the spousal unit. The Montauk makes a mutch better platform. When you are hauling up, try to take care not to wear the rubrail with the line, and watch out for jellyfish tentacle pieces, which can sting.

The crab seems better if you kill and clean before you boil, but so far, I'm too much a a wimp to break a live crab in half. Also, cooking outside keeps you house from smelling like crab for the next week. Get a crab boiling rig.

Don't forget the garlic butter.

alkar posted 11-26-2002 09:27 PM ET (US)     Profile for alkar  Send Email to alkar     
We're partial to the heavy "fixed" traps. Our heavy traps are round, very durable, and pretty productive. If we're crabbing with little kids we always bring some rings too because they require more attention and it gives the kids something to do every few minutes. OUr preferred bait is Shad - seems to produce better than our salmon carcasses... We've also found some of our best crabbing in less than 30 feet of water. Also, our preference is to cook the crab in an old pot on the beach - but we usually end up bringing them home and cooking them outside on the propane stove (from Cabelas)
andygere posted 11-26-2002 09:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
rather,
The NorCal crab report has been very good this year, so good that our local crabbers in Santa Cruz are complaining about the low prices. How deep are the crabs outside of the gate? The only reports I have heard on sport crabbing in my area are in 180 feet of water. That's a lot of rope! My Outrage came with 3 folding wire traps, and I'm anxious to give them a try. If you go, please post your results on the forum.
skeepyjack posted 11-26-2002 11:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for skeepyjack  Send Email to skeepyjack     
Rob,
Check out the north Cal fishing website http://coastsidefishingclub.com there is couple guys lay pot for crabs outside the Gate with Montauk, also have lot of info for how to trap them.
Matthew posted 11-26-2002 11:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for Matthew  Send Email to Matthew     
My advice also applies to the Puget Sound.

I store my three fixed round traps in the stern of the 170. Either flat or two on the floor one on top tied with small bungees depending on what else is on board.

I usually drop them any where from 30' to 60'. A bait box for each trap is wired to the center, stuffed with fresh chicken or salmon heads. 75' of weighted line connect each trap to a small buoy. The weighted line is important, it coils nicely and tries to stay out of reach of errant propellers. I've created a loop in the line above the buoy for easier retrival. I've seen others with flags on top of their buoys and this works good for tough visibility days.

Speaking with someone at the local "bait house" may give you a general idea of where to begin, but actually getting out on the water and seeing where others are making there sets is a good way to locate Dungeness.

180' of water would be a good work out!

Good luck and let us know how it goes,

Matt

ratherwhalering posted 11-27-2002 12:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Thanks for the replies. I opted for the square traps, because they seem easier to manage than the fixed, round traps. They are alot cheaper too. I went to the local bait shop and chewed the fat with some of the fellas that hang out there, and got some great local tips, including some 'hotspots', and bait recommendations (sqiud, cat food, and fish heads, mmmm...) I'm going to check out that web site right now!
ratherwhalering posted 11-27-2002 01:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Skeepyjack, that is the second best website I have ever seen! Thanks, it answered each and every question I had!!!!
Taylor posted 11-27-2002 03:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for Taylor  Send Email to Taylor     
Andy... so you got that Outrage? I must have missed that. Congratulations!

Rob - the folding traps will need to be weighted so the current won't carry them away. I like to tie the weights in so the trap does not come unbalanced. Because I happened to have my roto hammer on hand, I just put a hole through a couple of fist sized beach rocks, so I now have the most naturalistic traps around. Bricks work too.

BTW, the kits that I see with line and bouy's contain perhaps the most slippery polypro line I've ever encountered. It does not hold a knot worth a darn, and I've lost a trap because of that.

andygere posted 11-27-2002 04:15 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
Taylor, I got the Outrage, and it came with 3 new folding crab pots and rigging!

The traps I have are weighted with 3 sticks of steel rebar zip tied inside the trap. Is that enough weight?

ratherwhalering posted 11-28-2002 05:06 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Not that I'm an expert (yet) but I did alot of research, and I found that the square traps need alot of work to become functional. Apparently, the inward swinging doors should be weighted to keep them from swinging open. I drilled 1 oz. bullet weights, slipped them over the door spikes, then crimped them. (2oz. per door). I weighted the trap with four 2 lb. weights in each corner (unused salmon trolling weights). I also bought a harness ($5.00 for 4 clips, nylon line, connected to a burly stainless O ring...great deal!). I'm using 100' lenghts of 1/4" poly...harder on the hands, but easy on the wallet.
I read that bricks have a fair amount of air in them and are not good for trap weights. 6 oz. Line weights every 40-50 feet, with 30% scope. Yee ha!...I'm setting the traps tonight!
FISHNFF posted 11-29-2002 01:40 AM ET (US)     Profile for FISHNFF  Send Email to FISHNFF     
Rather.

Been doing it out past the North Bar in my Grady when I have a crew, and my 17 Alert/Montauk solo or with one other. The black square traps work great. My buddy Ray has 6 set up with weighted doors (some he bought, some he made with pencil lead) and dive weights. Only put the harness bridle on one side/end, as pulling these up flat with a load will have ALOT OF water resistance. We hang a bait jar, along with a bait cage with mackerel. He uses blue sinking crab line and we have 140' of line, which allows us to fish up to about 100'. Yesterday
we let them soak on 80' of water for 5 hours and got 4 limits of mixed grade. Today we pulled in a strong offshore wind for 26 "bugs" for 3. The squares do best with a shorter, 3-6 hour soak. They will outfish a round in a short time. For extended soaks (1-2 days), use a round. Hope this helps.
E-mail me if you have any questions.

FISHNFF

triblet posted 11-30-2002 09:01 AM ET (US)     Profile for triblet  Send Email to triblet     
Dunno squat about crab traps, but jellyfish
tenticles can remain "armed" on the line
as long as it stays saltwater damp. A good
freshwater rinse when you get home will make
them fire off so they don't sting you the
next time.

Lots of jellies in Monterey Bay yesterday.

Chuck

ratherwhalering posted 12-02-2002 02:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Thanks to everyone for the tips. I used every bit of your collective information! The trip went great. I used 3 square traps. They fit in the back of the Montauk with no problem. I could probably fit another 2 traps in the stern. I set off Baker beach, in 70 feet of water. Two 3 hour soaks yeilded 20 nice size crabs, alot of smaller ones, and 6 huge rock crabs. Took the whole lot back to a friends house and boiled 'em on the spot. All you can eat crab for 12 people, with 5 left over! The best part is that all my friends are asking to use the traps...and keep giving me a few from their catch! I've had crab just about every night since Thursday. Well, that's the report...thanks again for all the information and tips!

--Rob--

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