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Author Topic:   Bearings

Landlocked posted 04-09-2003 02:25 PM ET (US)
I would like to replace the bearings in my late 70's vintage Shorland'r trailer and I was wondering if there are different grades available or if there was a specific brand any of you would recommend. The bearings I have aren't getting hot yet but there is some side to side play and grease leakes out the rear seal. They have several thousand miles on them and I'd rather be safe than sorry when I head back to Florida in September. I would like to purchase the heaviest duty/longest lasting bearings avail.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Ll.
HAPPYJIM posted 04-09-2003 02:32 PM ET (US)
Look in the yellow pages under BEARINGS.
If you are lucky enough to have a supply shop in Nashville, take the old set of bearings with the rear seal & tell them you want the best they have.
Jerry Townsend posted 04-09-2003 02:43 PM ET (US)
Ll - To the best of my knowledge, there is not a heavy and light duty bearing class or grade. Simply get the replacement bearings either from Shorelander or a local bearing place. Get American made bearings from reputable outfits - Timkin et.al. Be sure and replace the seals at the same time.
A few thousand miles doesn't hurt a bearing if it is properly lubed and adjusted. But either no/bad lube or improper adjustment can go through a bearing in less than 100 miles.
From your original messsage, it sounds like your bearings might be a tad loose and it would be wise to adjust them now. The subject of adjusting bearings has come up before and you should be able to find those threads. If not, e-mail me and I will tell you how - no sense in re-inventing the wheel here. ----- Jerry/Idaho
whalersman posted 04-09-2003 02:44 PM ET (US)
Landlocked,
I just went through this on one of my trailers. I agree with HAPPYJIM about the bearings. I would also add that you want bearings made in the U.S.A. and the best quality ones at that..
I could not find the "Marine" axle seals at any Auto Parts house around my area. The Marine seals have a "Double" rubber lip seal. The Automotive type only have a "Single" rubber lip... I ended up ordering the "Marine" seals through a boat trailer supply company. In my case I used Trail-Rite trailers but you could try a trailer outfit in your area.
dscew posted 04-09-2003 03:27 PM ET (US)
I replaced the bearings in my 74 Shorelandr last year. I had to go to 3 different marine stores to find American made Timkens, which were in there for the last 29 years. I just didn't trust that the Pacific rim imports were the right ones to keep separate my beloved Whaler and the asphalt at 60 MPH.
Landlocked posted 04-09-2003 03:29 PM ET (US)
Thanks guys.
I'll do some checking around town and report my findings.
Ll.
andygere posted 04-09-2003 04:00 PM ET (US)
http://www.championtrailers.com/
They have everything you need.
lhg posted 04-09-2003 06:28 PM ET (US)
Assuming you are using Bearing Buddys or something similar, be SURE to have the Bearing Buddy brand "Spindo Seals" installed. Most do not know that Bearing Buddys require these special seals to keep the grease in at the inside seal. Don't get talked out of this.
whalersman posted 04-09-2003 07:48 PM ET (US)
lhg,
I tried to buy the Bearing Buddy "Spindo Seals" but they were not available for my size of spindle..
I know, I talked to Bearing Buddy directly...
I also talked to Trial-Rite trailers and they said they have been using the Marine Seals in conjuction with Bearing Buddys for years without any problems.. The trailer I replaced the bearings and seals on was a 1978 which had the Double lip seals and Bearing Buddys... This is the first time I changed bearings and seals since 1988 and have no idea if they were original or not.
I would however have purchased the Spino Seals if they were available for my size spindle.
jimh posted 04-09-2003 10:36 PM ET (US)
Once your have torn down the spindle, etc., so you can see what bearings you need, it is a good idea to order at least one extra set.
If you have a failure on the road it could be a life saver to have a spare set of bearings handy.
I am in a spot right now because I had the bearings redone recently, but I forgot to note the size, etc., so now I can't get a spare set without tearing an axle apart to verify what size!
kglinz posted 04-09-2003 10:46 PM ET (US)
With Bearing Buddies you need a single lip seal, installed with the lip pointed outward. That will keep the water from entering the hub and will allow the grease in the hub to push trapped air out.
triblet posted 04-09-2003 10:51 PM ET (US)
Better than a spare set of bearings is a
spare hub, seals, bearing buddies, etc.
The bearings are already pressed into the hub.
It's about $40 at West Marine. I keep
the hub, grease, all the needed tools, rags,
and water hand cleaner in some Rubbermaid
immitation Tupperware. It goes in the truck
every time I tow the trailer.

Chuck
whalersman posted 04-09-2003 11:24 PM ET (US)
kglinz,
With all due respect..... The single lip seal is not for "Marine" use..... Period....... You do not want grease do flow outside of the seal.....
triblet,
With all due respect.... It is not neccesary to trailer an extra automobile around when traveling..
Bearings are not pressed into the hubs...... Only the races are pressed into the hubs... The bearing tension is adjusted by the Spindle Nut.
Respectfully on all accounts........
whalerron posted 04-09-2003 11:32 PM ET (US)
Timken is usually a good "made in the USA" bearing. There was a time when you simply couldn't beat a Timken bearing. Now, with NAFTA, those Timken bearings, or for that matter, any other "USA" bearing", are not necessarily made in the USA. Look for the USA stamp on the bearing and its race. You may be surprised how often you open a "made in USA" box to find it contains a "made in Mexico" bearing.
Dr T posted 04-10-2003 03:32 PM ET (US)
The idea of a hot spare, as Chuck suggestes, appeals to me since I am often a LONG way away from the nearest facilities when I two the trailer. With a spare handy, you can change the whole assembly in a matter of minutes, rather than hours.
Also, it serves as a useful talisman to scare off the bearing burner gremlins....
BabySitter posted 04-10-2003 04:04 PM ET (US)
Whalersman,
You're right about the races, but you would have to knock the seal out of the back of the hub to replace that inner bearing - then replace the seal after the swap. That could be dicey on the side of the road at 2 am.
Just a thought.
JB
whalersman posted 04-10-2003 05:51 PM ET (US)
I agree that it would be nice and very handy to have all the spare parts one would need to service a trailer or an automobile that might break down on any trip...
However, bearings do not just go out overnight... They usually fail due to neglect. If you check and lube your bearings before a trip, you most likely will save yourself a lot of road trouble.
I have never had a bearing go out on me on my trailer or any of my automobiles. Yes, they certainly could, but as several mentioned above, the front bearing may be easily replace on the road, but the rear bearing and seal is a little difficult at 2 am... The races are almost impossible unless you carry a machine shop in the back of your truck.
I do like the idea of the newer Spare Tire mounts that accept an entire Hub, complete with bearings and seal, along with the spare tire.. A little spendy, and they can be stolen, but it would be handy.
Now that was just for Single axle trailers. Usually a tandem axle trailer can limp into any town for repairs if one tire, bearing, or axle happens to give way..
The bottom line for me is, Don't neglect checking your bearings throughly before going on a trip. Preventive maintanence is definitely the key.
whalernut posted 04-10-2003 08:59 PM ET (US)
Has anyone tried the Oil Bath type bearing covers, the ones with a clear cover and oil inside, instead of grease? Jack.
triblet posted 04-10-2003 11:16 PM ET (US)
I HAVE had a bearing go out, and at an
inconvient time. 4:45 on a Friday afternoon,
60 miles from home, and I was leaving on a
trip (w/o whaler) midafternoon on Saturday.
The cost to get it fixed was 6x the cost of
the hub kit. It took longer to find someone
close who would take the trailer in on Friday
than it would have taken me to replace the
hub. It's not minutes, but it's under an
hour. So now I carry the hub kit.
BTW, I changed out the other one in the
driveway, and made a point of only using the
tools in the truck and my hub replacement
kit. Took about 45 minutes, and I found a
tool or two I needed.
BTW2: Put clean up stuff in your hub kit. I
carry a bunch of heavy duty paper towels
(the paper shop towels), a couple of real
shop towels, and some waterless hand cleaner.
BTW3: Dr. T is absolutely right about it keeping
the bearing Gremlins away. My grandmother's
maiden name was Murphey, and trust me, if
you are prepared for a problem, it won't
happen because Murphey won't have any fun
with YOU.
BTW4: You can seat the outer races without a
machine shop, but you need the right tools.
I made the right drift for my old 240Z from
some PVC pipe fittings, but it would still
be far better to have a spare hub ready to
go.
BTW5: It's a real good idea to do a temperature
check on the bearings. Right after you stop,
go touch the hubs. They should just be a
little (10-20F) over abient. You can catch
a lot of bearing problems real early this
way.
BTW6: Here's what's in my hub kit:
Paper towels
A couple of gallon ziplocks for trash
A grease gun tube of bearing grease
Grease gun, with whatever's left of the
prior tube of grease
Five shop towels
Two SS bearing buddies, new (one would do,
but they come in pairs)
One used SS bearing buddy, with bra.
(Dunno why that's there)
Parts sheet for the trailer (includes
torque specs)
Waterless hand cleaner.
Hub, including bearings, seal, and cotter
pin
Torque wrench, 0-60 inch-pounds, 1/4" drive
1/4" to 3/8" socket adapter
3/8" to 1/2" socket adapter
1 1/8" socket, 1/2" drive
Bearing packing cones.
Soft faced hammer for bearing buddies
Block of wood to install bearing buddies
Some miscellaneous trailer light parts.

Chuck
whalersman posted 04-10-2003 11:43 PM ET (US)
Chuck,
I rest my case.....
You do carry a machine shop and all the supplies with you...... :-)
Whatever works for you is great...... I understand why you carry these things around as you don't want it to happen to you again without being prepared....
Let's hope none of us have any major problems with our trailers this year.....
Happy Whaler season everyone.....
Joe
Landlocked posted 04-11-2003 10:22 AM ET (US)
Thanks for all of the responses. I've been away for a couple of days so sorry I haven't said thanks sooner.

Ll.

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Author	Topic: Bearings
Landlocked	posted 04-09-2003 02:25 PM ET (US) I would like to replace the bearings in my late 70's vintage Shorland'r trailer and I was wondering if there are different grades available or if there was a specific brand any of you would recommend. The bearings I have aren't getting hot yet but there is some side to side play and grease leakes out the rear seal. They have several thousand miles on them and I'd rather be safe than sorry when I head back to Florida in September. I would like to purchase the heaviest duty/longest lasting bearings avail. Any advice would be appreciated. Ll.
HAPPYJIM	posted 04-09-2003 02:32 PM ET (US) Look in the yellow pages under BEARINGS. If you are lucky enough to have a supply shop in Nashville, take the old set of bearings with the rear seal & tell them you want the best they have.
Jerry Townsend	posted 04-09-2003 02:43 PM ET (US) Ll - To the best of my knowledge, there is not a heavy and light duty bearing class or grade. Simply get the replacement bearings either from Shorelander or a local bearing place. Get American made bearings from reputable outfits - Timkin et.al. Be sure and replace the seals at the same time. A few thousand miles doesn't hurt a bearing if it is properly lubed and adjusted. But either no/bad lube or improper adjustment can go through a bearing in less than 100 miles. From your original messsage, it sounds like your bearings might be a tad loose and it would be wise to adjust them now. The subject of adjusting bearings has come up before and you should be able to find those threads. If not, e-mail me and I will tell you how - no sense in re-inventing the wheel here. ----- Jerry/Idaho
whalersman	posted 04-09-2003 02:44 PM ET (US) Landlocked, I just went through this on one of my trailers. I agree with HAPPYJIM about the bearings. I would also add that you want bearings made in the U.S.A. and the best quality ones at that.. I could not find the "Marine" axle seals at any Auto Parts house around my area. The Marine seals have a "Double" rubber lip seal. The Automotive type only have a "Single" rubber lip... I ended up ordering the "Marine" seals through a boat trailer supply company. In my case I used Trail-Rite trailers but you could try a trailer outfit in your area.
dscew	posted 04-09-2003 03:27 PM ET (US) I replaced the bearings in my 74 Shorelandr last year. I had to go to 3 different marine stores to find American made Timkens, which were in there for the last 29 years. I just didn't trust that the Pacific rim imports were the right ones to keep separate my beloved Whaler and the asphalt at 60 MPH.
Landlocked	posted 04-09-2003 03:29 PM ET (US) Thanks guys. I'll do some checking around town and report my findings. Ll.
andygere	posted 04-09-2003 04:00 PM ET (US) http://www.championtrailers.com/ They have everything you need.
lhg	posted 04-09-2003 06:28 PM ET (US) Assuming you are using Bearing Buddys or something similar, be SURE to have the Bearing Buddy brand "Spindo Seals" installed. Most do not know that Bearing Buddys require these special seals to keep the grease in at the inside seal. Don't get talked out of this.
whalersman	posted 04-09-2003 07:48 PM ET (US) lhg, I tried to buy the Bearing Buddy "Spindo Seals" but they were not available for my size of spindle.. I know, I talked to Bearing Buddy directly... I also talked to Trial-Rite trailers and they said they have been using the Marine Seals in conjuction with Bearing Buddys for years without any problems.. The trailer I replaced the bearings and seals on was a 1978 which had the Double lip seals and Bearing Buddys... This is the first time I changed bearings and seals since 1988 and have no idea if they were original or not. I would however have purchased the Spino Seals if they were available for my size spindle.
jimh	posted 04-09-2003 10:36 PM ET (US) Once your have torn down the spindle, etc., so you can see what bearings you need, it is a good idea to order at least one extra set. If you have a failure on the road it could be a life saver to have a spare set of bearings handy. I am in a spot right now because I had the bearings redone recently, but I forgot to note the size, etc., so now I can't get a spare set without tearing an axle apart to verify what size!
kglinz	posted 04-09-2003 10:46 PM ET (US) With Bearing Buddies you need a single lip seal, installed with the lip pointed outward. That will keep the water from entering the hub and will allow the grease in the hub to push trapped air out.
triblet	posted 04-09-2003 10:51 PM ET (US) Better than a spare set of bearings is a spare hub, seals, bearing buddies, etc. The bearings are already pressed into the hub. It's about $40 at West Marine. I keep the hub, grease, all the needed tools, rags, and water hand cleaner in some Rubbermaid immitation Tupperware. It goes in the truck every time I tow the trailer. Chuck
whalersman	posted 04-09-2003 11:24 PM ET (US) kglinz, With all due respect..... The single lip seal is not for "Marine" use..... Period....... You do not want grease do flow outside of the seal..... triblet, With all due respect.... It is not neccesary to trailer an extra automobile around when traveling.. Bearings are not pressed into the hubs...... Only the races are pressed into the hubs... The bearing tension is adjusted by the Spindle Nut. Respectfully on all accounts........
whalerron	posted 04-09-2003 11:32 PM ET (US) Timken is usually a good "made in the USA" bearing. There was a time when you simply couldn't beat a Timken bearing. Now, with NAFTA, those Timken bearings, or for that matter, any other "USA" bearing", are not necessarily made in the USA. Look for the USA stamp on the bearing and its race. You may be surprised how often you open a "made in USA" box to find it contains a "made in Mexico" bearing.
Dr T	posted 04-10-2003 03:32 PM ET (US) The idea of a hot spare, as Chuck suggestes, appeals to me since I am often a LONG way away from the nearest facilities when I two the trailer. With a spare handy, you can change the whole assembly in a matter of minutes, rather than hours. Also, it serves as a useful talisman to scare off the bearing burner gremlins....
BabySitter	posted 04-10-2003 04:04 PM ET (US) Whalersman, You're right about the races, but you would have to knock the seal out of the back of the hub to replace that inner bearing - then replace the seal after the swap. That could be dicey on the side of the road at 2 am. Just a thought. JB
whalersman	posted 04-10-2003 05:51 PM ET (US) I agree that it would be nice and very handy to have all the spare parts one would need to service a trailer or an automobile that might break down on any trip... However, bearings do not just go out overnight... They usually fail due to neglect. If you check and lube your bearings before a trip, you most likely will save yourself a lot of road trouble. I have never had a bearing go out on me on my trailer or any of my automobiles. Yes, they certainly could, but as several mentioned above, the front bearing may be easily replace on the road, but the rear bearing and seal is a little difficult at 2 am... The races are almost impossible unless you carry a machine shop in the back of your truck. I do like the idea of the newer Spare Tire mounts that accept an entire Hub, complete with bearings and seal, along with the spare tire.. A little spendy, and they can be stolen, but it would be handy. Now that was just for Single axle trailers. Usually a tandem axle trailer can limp into any town for repairs if one tire, bearing, or axle happens to give way.. The bottom line for me is, Don't neglect checking your bearings throughly before going on a trip. Preventive maintanence is definitely the key.
whalernut	posted 04-10-2003 08:59 PM ET (US) Has anyone tried the Oil Bath type bearing covers, the ones with a clear cover and oil inside, instead of grease? Jack.
triblet	posted 04-10-2003 11:16 PM ET (US) I HAVE had a bearing go out, and at an inconvient time. 4:45 on a Friday afternoon, 60 miles from home, and I was leaving on a trip (w/o whaler) midafternoon on Saturday. The cost to get it fixed was 6x the cost of the hub kit. It took longer to find someone close who would take the trailer in on Friday than it would have taken me to replace the hub. It's not minutes, but it's under an hour. So now I carry the hub kit. BTW, I changed out the other one in the driveway, and made a point of only using the tools in the truck and my hub replacement kit. Took about 45 minutes, and I found a tool or two I needed. BTW2: Put clean up stuff in your hub kit. I carry a bunch of heavy duty paper towels (the paper shop towels), a couple of real shop towels, and some waterless hand cleaner. BTW3: Dr. T is absolutely right about it keeping the bearing Gremlins away. My grandmother's maiden name was Murphey, and trust me, if you are prepared for a problem, it won't happen because Murphey won't have any fun with YOU. BTW4: You can seat the outer races without a machine shop, but you need the right tools. I made the right drift for my old 240Z from some PVC pipe fittings, but it would still be far better to have a spare hub ready to go. BTW5: It's a real good idea to do a temperature check on the bearings. Right after you stop, go touch the hubs. They should just be a little (10-20F) over abient. You can catch a lot of bearing problems real early this way. BTW6: Here's what's in my hub kit: Paper towels A couple of gallon ziplocks for trash A grease gun tube of bearing grease Grease gun, with whatever's left of the prior tube of grease Five shop towels Two SS bearing buddies, new (one would do, but they come in pairs) One used SS bearing buddy, with bra. (Dunno why that's there) Parts sheet for the trailer (includes torque specs) Waterless hand cleaner. Hub, including bearings, seal, and cotter pin Torque wrench, 0-60 inch-pounds, 1/4" drive 1/4" to 3/8" socket adapter 3/8" to 1/2" socket adapter 1 1/8" socket, 1/2" drive Bearing packing cones. Soft faced hammer for bearing buddies Block of wood to install bearing buddies Some miscellaneous trailer light parts. Chuck
whalersman	posted 04-10-2003 11:43 PM ET (US) Chuck, I rest my case..... You do carry a machine shop and all the supplies with you...... :-) Whatever works for you is great...... I understand why you carry these things around as you don't want it to happen to you again without being prepared.... Let's hope none of us have any major problems with our trailers this year..... Happy Whaler season everyone..... Joe
Landlocked	posted 04-11-2003 10:22 AM ET (US) Thanks for all of the responses. I've been away for a couple of days so sorry I haven't said thanks sooner. Ll.