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Author Topic:   Whaler Moorage

Roarque posted 04-25-2003 07:28 AM ET (US)
I have a 20 foot dock and a floating raft which is about 50 feet from the end of the dock. I want to be able to stand on the end of my dock and attach my Whaler to a Stainless Steel cable assembly that has the characteristics of a clothes line whereby I can pull on the cable and "hoist" the Whaler away from the dock and towards the raft. I visualize cast aluminum or SS pulleys attached to the dock and the raft through which the cable would travel. The boat could moor anywhere in between the two pulleys for short term safety from waves pounding the boat against the dock. Has anyone seen such a mooring configuration - sketches of ways to fix the pulleys to each end of this contraption would be appreciated.

Greg
JustinAndersen posted 04-25-2003 08:56 AM ET (US)
Hello Roarque (again):
Have you thought of mooring whips? Solves the problem of chop from wind or boat traffic entirely.
TampaTom posted 04-25-2003 09:46 AM ET (US)
Check April issue of Wooden Boat, Rigging an Outhaul Anchor. Good quality rope would be less expensive and easier to work with than SS cable.
Ponchee posted 04-25-2003 12:59 PM ET (US)
I'd suggest whips also... ..when sized correctly they do a nice job.
If not, handling SS cables by hand will end up with cut fingers for sure.
You don't want to bother with gloves all the time either.
Use rope but remember to replace it before it deteriorates too bad.
Personally.... ...I'd put a fab a simple SS loop on the raft.
Then run a rope from the back of the boat through the loop and all the way to the dock.
Then tie another rope from the front of the boat to the dock.
Both ties are on the dock... release the first rope (running through the hoop)and simply pull with the second.
Nothing left to do except roll up rope when your done.
No maintenance except replacing weathered rope.

hardensheetmetal posted 04-25-2003 05:10 PM ET (US)
Roarque-
I have a house on a small island in CT along with about 50 houses, most use the mooring system you speak of, with the exception of the farther out anchoring point being a piling or metal post. Most of these especially the pilings) were driven quite some time ago, as it is near to imposible to get the DEP to allow you to put anything permenant into navigatible waters. I may be out there this weekend or next, if you need any pictures for inspiration, let me know.
Dan
MikeG posted 04-25-2003 05:45 PM ET (US)
We have used a similar setup in Maine due to the 9’ tide swings. However, our setup was designed for an 8’ rowboat not the Whaler. The rowboat was actually used to get to the 13’ Whaler that was moored even further out. (We normally use a kayak to get to our Montauk on a different mooring). For short-term applications we have tied the 13’ or the Montauk on to this mooring setup.
This may be a little difficult to explain without pictures, but essentially we had a setup by which the boat can be hauled out to a float using a continuous line that runs around poles on our seawall. The float is shaped like a “T” and is anchored about 50 ft. off the 15’ high sea wall. Depending on the tide the float will either be in 10’ of water or ankle deep. The “T” shaped float lays flat on the water. The stem part of the “T” is facing away from the seawall and is attached to an anchor. Rope travels around two spools on the cross part of the “T” float and travels up to a post on the seawall. It works just like a close line in that the boat can be hauled back and forth from the float as the rope is continuous around both the float and the seawall post. The rope must be knotted or tied off at the seawall once the boat is in the desired position or else it will migrate back to the wall. Also, the boat should be tied off to the mooring line in such a way as it will not slide along the line as it is being pulled in or out. This may be difficult with steel cable.
I don’t know the exact name of this type of setup but it is fairly common in the bays of Maine and possibly other places. The Whalers are definitely harder to pull in by hand than the rowboat, especially with a strong wind or current. Our float is also not very large, about 4 feet across and made of wood with foam pieces. In a strong wind with the Whalers attached, the float will be pulled under to a degree but the anchor has always held. Make sure that your anchor is up to task of holding the Whaler and the float with a strong wind.
For our application, which required the boat to be 50 ft. away yet retrievable, whips were not possible but they may be for your needs.
I hope this helps.
Mike
whalernut posted 04-25-2003 07:23 PM ET (US)
Reading this most interesting post has me thinking how much thought has to go into mooreing on waters with Tides, wow is that wild!! I have heard Lake Erie has a slight tide, but I can`t tell if any. Not only do you guys have to deal with tides, you have the Saltwater to deal with, alot more work in my book, but the variety of Fish in Saltwater makes it worthwhile I imagine :) Jack.
Roarque posted 04-29-2003 07:10 AM ET (US)
Ponchee - I like your idea. Simpler is better. On my lake there are few swells over 3 feet and obviously no tides to deal with so your solution should work.
Thanks

Greg

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Author	Topic: Whaler Moorage
Roarque	posted 04-25-2003 07:28 AM ET (US) I have a 20 foot dock and a floating raft which is about 50 feet from the end of the dock. I want to be able to stand on the end of my dock and attach my Whaler to a Stainless Steel cable assembly that has the characteristics of a clothes line whereby I can pull on the cable and "hoist" the Whaler away from the dock and towards the raft. I visualize cast aluminum or SS pulleys attached to the dock and the raft through which the cable would travel. The boat could moor anywhere in between the two pulleys for short term safety from waves pounding the boat against the dock. Has anyone seen such a mooring configuration - sketches of ways to fix the pulleys to each end of this contraption would be appreciated. Greg
JustinAndersen	posted 04-25-2003 08:56 AM ET (US) Hello Roarque (again): Have you thought of mooring whips? Solves the problem of chop from wind or boat traffic entirely.
TampaTom	posted 04-25-2003 09:46 AM ET (US) Check April issue of Wooden Boat, Rigging an Outhaul Anchor. Good quality rope would be less expensive and easier to work with than SS cable.
Ponchee	posted 04-25-2003 12:59 PM ET (US) I'd suggest whips also... ..when sized correctly they do a nice job. If not, handling SS cables by hand will end up with cut fingers for sure. You don't want to bother with gloves all the time either. Use rope but remember to replace it before it deteriorates too bad. Personally.... ...I'd put a fab a simple SS loop on the raft. Then run a rope from the back of the boat through the loop and all the way to the dock. Then tie another rope from the front of the boat to the dock. Both ties are on the dock... release the first rope (running through the hoop)and simply pull with the second. Nothing left to do except roll up rope when your done. No maintenance except replacing weathered rope.
hardensheetmetal	posted 04-25-2003 05:10 PM ET (US) Roarque- I have a house on a small island in CT along with about 50 houses, most use the mooring system you speak of, with the exception of the farther out anchoring point being a piling or metal post. Most of these especially the pilings) were driven quite some time ago, as it is near to imposible to get the DEP to allow you to put anything permenant into navigatible waters. I may be out there this weekend or next, if you need any pictures for inspiration, let me know. Dan
MikeG	posted 04-25-2003 05:45 PM ET (US) We have used a similar setup in Maine due to the 9’ tide swings. However, our setup was designed for an 8’ rowboat not the Whaler. The rowboat was actually used to get to the 13’ Whaler that was moored even further out. (We normally use a kayak to get to our Montauk on a different mooring). For short-term applications we have tied the 13’ or the Montauk on to this mooring setup. This may be a little difficult to explain without pictures, but essentially we had a setup by which the boat can be hauled out to a float using a continuous line that runs around poles on our seawall. The float is shaped like a “T” and is anchored about 50 ft. off the 15’ high sea wall. Depending on the tide the float will either be in 10’ of water or ankle deep. The “T” shaped float lays flat on the water. The stem part of the “T” is facing away from the seawall and is attached to an anchor. Rope travels around two spools on the cross part of the “T” float and travels up to a post on the seawall. It works just like a close line in that the boat can be hauled back and forth from the float as the rope is continuous around both the float and the seawall post. The rope must be knotted or tied off at the seawall once the boat is in the desired position or else it will migrate back to the wall. Also, the boat should be tied off to the mooring line in such a way as it will not slide along the line as it is being pulled in or out. This may be difficult with steel cable. I don’t know the exact name of this type of setup but it is fairly common in the bays of Maine and possibly other places. The Whalers are definitely harder to pull in by hand than the rowboat, especially with a strong wind or current. Our float is also not very large, about 4 feet across and made of wood with foam pieces. In a strong wind with the Whalers attached, the float will be pulled under to a degree but the anchor has always held. Make sure that your anchor is up to task of holding the Whaler and the float with a strong wind. For our application, which required the boat to be 50 ft. away yet retrievable, whips were not possible but they may be for your needs. I hope this helps. Mike
whalernut	posted 04-25-2003 07:23 PM ET (US) Reading this most interesting post has me thinking how much thought has to go into mooreing on waters with Tides, wow is that wild!! I have heard Lake Erie has a slight tide, but I can`t tell if any. Not only do you guys have to deal with tides, you have the Saltwater to deal with, alot more work in my book, but the variety of Fish in Saltwater makes it worthwhile I imagine :) Jack.
Roarque	posted 04-29-2003 07:10 AM ET (US) Ponchee - I like your idea. Simpler is better. On my lake there are few swells over 3 feet and obviously no tides to deal with so your solution should work. Thanks Greg