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Author Topic:   Deck/Hull joint, Revenge 22 W/T

quattro20vt posted 04-28-2003 04:03 AM ET (US)
One last question tonite on this Revenge I looked at today...
From inside the cuddy, sighting aft, along the joint where the cabin top meets with the (original Outrage) gunnel, the deck/hull joint seems to "leak" light from outside.
Looking along the outside at the deck/hull joint, the rub rail seems to have about a 1/8" gap most places except on the starboard side, where it gets to be about 3/8" in the area where I saw most light.
My look today showed no evidence of damage here (then again, I'm not a boat inspector by trade, so what do I know?)
This may be a serious prospect for me (moving up from brand X :) so your thoughts greatly appreciated!
Peter posted 04-28-2003 09:05 AM ET (US)
If you are you looking at the vertical bulk head/gunnel joint, then I can tell you that I can see light through mine also. It is not a tight seal and is not intended to be.
I'm not sure what is meant by rub rail, but if it is the brown vinyl trim covering the edge of the bulk head, the gap varies.
The cabin on the Revenge is just a cap overlay over the Outrage hull. I would say that the most important seal is the between the top of the gunnel and the bottom of the cabin along the bow from the port windshield area to the same area on the starboard side. This is where water will ingress if at all while underway in heavy seas.
peetmin posted 04-28-2003 06:03 PM ET (US)
That just doesn't seem right. I don't believe mine has that option. I did replace the rub rail a couple of years ago. It was secured every 2-3" with 2" long pop rivits. If you were to pull the rubber insert out you could possibley re-drill and re-attach. Just a thought...pb
dreamer posted 04-28-2003 08:55 PM ET (US)
I've got a 19'Revenge that I un-riveted. I plan to lift up the "top", with some help
of course, and place a couple of 4X4's placed between the gunnals to separate top and hull allowing me room to dry it out and do some epoxy barrier coating and "chip" and "hole" damage from previous rub rail and "rigid" replacements. I plan to use System Three epoxy so as to avoid the concerns of "blushing". From my understanding, if the blushing is present
the adhesive coating which will be applied next will not hold as well.
When this is thoroughly dried, I plan to apply epoxy filler on the top contact point of the hull, drop the "top" down and screw the "top" lip into the hull and hope like hell it works. Have to be carful about the alighnment 'cause you don't want to be going forward looking like your traveling in 2 directions at the same time.
As for the "help, you need 2 great big guys pushing, 1 pushing down and 1 pushing in. Please understand I am not making a suggestion..just telling you how I am planning to take care of a very similar problem 'cause, I have parts left over when I change a light bulb!!....
raydent99 posted 04-28-2003 11:45 PM ET (US)
What year Revenge is it? Does it have a notched transom or a bracket?
dreamer posted 04-29-2003 12:43 AM ET (US)
RAYDENT99;
It is a 1974 19'Revenge with a notched transom. I completely stripped the boat,
un-riveted it and starting from bare hull.
The boat, when it is done, will be stiffer and more re-enforced.

doobee posted 04-30-2003 06:40 AM ET (US)
Assuming the light is coming through the hull/deck joint, whatever is causing the problem can't be structural. The boat's strength is in the hull, not the cabin. My first thought was an impact on the rub rail. If there is no apparent damage there, then it could be improper installation of the cabin. If there wasn't enough sealant applied there or if the cabin wasn't aligned properly, a minor tap on the rub rail could have caused it to pucker. An extra bead of 5200 from the inside may help prevent water leaks, but if that doesn't work, it may be necessary to remove the rub rail and seal it from the outside.
Based on your description, it doesn't sound like a serious problem.

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Author	Topic: Deck/Hull joint, Revenge 22 W/T
quattro20vt	posted 04-28-2003 04:03 AM ET (US) One last question tonite on this Revenge I looked at today... From inside the cuddy, sighting aft, along the joint where the cabin top meets with the (original Outrage) gunnel, the deck/hull joint seems to "leak" light from outside. Looking along the outside at the deck/hull joint, the rub rail seems to have about a 1/8" gap most places except on the starboard side, where it gets to be about 3/8" in the area where I saw most light. My look today showed no evidence of damage here (then again, I'm not a boat inspector by trade, so what do I know?) This may be a serious prospect for me (moving up from brand X :) so your thoughts greatly appreciated!
Peter	posted 04-28-2003 09:05 AM ET (US) If you are you looking at the vertical bulk head/gunnel joint, then I can tell you that I can see light through mine also. It is not a tight seal and is not intended to be. I'm not sure what is meant by rub rail, but if it is the brown vinyl trim covering the edge of the bulk head, the gap varies. The cabin on the Revenge is just a cap overlay over the Outrage hull. I would say that the most important seal is the between the top of the gunnel and the bottom of the cabin along the bow from the port windshield area to the same area on the starboard side. This is where water will ingress if at all while underway in heavy seas.
peetmin	posted 04-28-2003 06:03 PM ET (US) That just doesn't seem right. I don't believe mine has that option. I did replace the rub rail a couple of years ago. It was secured every 2-3" with 2" long pop rivits. If you were to pull the rubber insert out you could possibley re-drill and re-attach. Just a thought...pb
dreamer	posted 04-28-2003 08:55 PM ET (US) I've got a 19'Revenge that I un-riveted. I plan to lift up the "top", with some help of course, and place a couple of 4X4's placed between the gunnals to separate top and hull allowing me room to dry it out and do some epoxy barrier coating and "chip" and "hole" damage from previous rub rail and "rigid" replacements. I plan to use System Three epoxy so as to avoid the concerns of "blushing". From my understanding, if the blushing is present the adhesive coating which will be applied next will not hold as well. When this is thoroughly dried, I plan to apply epoxy filler on the top contact point of the hull, drop the "top" down and screw the "top" lip into the hull and hope like hell it works. Have to be carful about the alighnment 'cause you don't want to be going forward looking like your traveling in 2 directions at the same time. As for the "help, you need 2 great big guys pushing, 1 pushing down and 1 pushing in. Please understand I am not making a suggestion..just telling you how I am planning to take care of a very similar problem 'cause, I have parts left over when I change a light bulb!!....
raydent99	posted 04-28-2003 11:45 PM ET (US) What year Revenge is it? Does it have a notched transom or a bracket?
dreamer	posted 04-29-2003 12:43 AM ET (US) RAYDENT99; It is a 1974 19'Revenge with a notched transom. I completely stripped the boat, un-riveted it and starting from bare hull. The boat, when it is done, will be stiffer and more re-enforced.
doobee	posted 04-30-2003 06:40 AM ET (US) Assuming the light is coming through the hull/deck joint, whatever is causing the problem can't be structural. The boat's strength is in the hull, not the cabin. My first thought was an impact on the rub rail. If there is no apparent damage there, then it could be improper installation of the cabin. If there wasn't enough sealant applied there or if the cabin wasn't aligned properly, a minor tap on the rub rail could have caused it to pucker. An extra bead of 5200 from the inside may help prevent water leaks, but if that doesn't work, it may be necessary to remove the rub rail and seal it from the outside. Based on your description, it doesn't sound like a serious problem.