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Author Topic:   re-wiring shorelandr trailer

DaveS posted 05-20-2003 03:35 PM ET (US)
My 1989 Shorelandr's wiring has seen better days. I'm about ready to pull the old wires and install a new wiring harness, my main question is, how do I go about replacing the wiring? Are there any tricks of the trade that would help? Just trying to make a job a little bit easier.
Thanks for the help!
DaveS
Landlocked posted 05-20-2003 04:59 PM ET (US)
I've done this several times. In my opinion - unless you are using a completely pre-fab harness, its pretty much figure it out as you go.
There isn't much to it. Make sure you have a good grounding point on the trailer by sanding off a spot for the ground wire to attach. Also, make sure to seal all connections with liquid tape. I do this after putting the wire cap on. It usually takes a couple of coats before I feel like the connection is water-tight.
Also - I'd consider replacing lights water tight LED models.
If you are installing a new pigtail/harness and aren't sure about color codes, a circuit tester (sharp probe with a ground and a light) makes the job much easier.
Other more knowlegable folks may have more to contribute.
Ll.
HAPPYJIM posted 05-20-2003 05:12 PM ET (US)
LED is worth the money and make sure that they are waterproof.
Make sure you leave about a foot or more than what is necessary to connect to your vehicle. The extra comes in handy if towed by another vehicle. It is also nice to have extra if you forget to connect it and drag the connector for several miles.
FLUKEDUKE posted 05-20-2003 05:18 PM ET (US)
Silicone grease, available in most automotive
parts stores, may be called disk brake grease, is great stuff for all electrical connections and boulb sockets, works for the boat wiring too.
Over the LINE posted 05-20-2003 10:36 PM ET (US)
The biggest "trick" I know is do it when the boat is not on the trailer. It sure is a lot easier to work from the top.
Also use the old wires to "pull" the new wires through tubing instead of "fishing" them.
I use shrink tubing and have been very satisfied with how the conections hold up.
Lastly, do not try to re-use anything. If it is time to change the system, change the whole thing.
Good Luck
andygere posted 05-21-2003 12:43 AM ET (US)
Many cheaper wiring systems rely on the connection between the hitch ball and the trailer for ground. I prefer to use a harness with a ground wire, which ensures a good ground all the time. If you have guide-ons or bunk style side guides, mount the tail lights on them to keep them out of the water. It also gets the lights up at eye level making them easier to see.
where2 posted 05-21-2003 12:51 PM ET (US)
Along the thought that Andy had, my last rewiring of the trailer included a separate wire for grounding. Since the main problem I usually had was a grounding problem between the light housing and the trailer frame, I hardwired grounds to each LED light. (Yes, I went with LED's). The end result is a system where everything is fed through a wire. Nothing requires grounding through the trailer itself. Even the side marker lights have separate ground wires.
If you want to Splurge, use marine grade wire in place of the cheap stuff that comes with the lights. Tinned wire is worth the trouble, really...
Tims_Tub posted 05-22-2003 12:33 PM ET (US)
A 16/3 Extension Cord with the ends cut off works much better than the trailer harness wiring because it has a tough outer jacket. Depending on the size of your trailer, you might even be able to find one cheaper than the premade harness. I actually rewired my trailer with Intermatic Malibu Low Voltage Lighting Cable and it works great, the cunductors are just a bit difficult to tell apart. You also still have to buy the plug connector and splice onto the end.
Also, the pigtail sticking out of the tounge ought to be encased in a hose or tube, this will prevent much of the damage and resulting shorting between the wires and frame/hitch/chains.
TT
Andy Holmes posted 05-24-2003 10:12 PM ET (US)
I just went through this. Used a pre-fab harness and submersible lights available at Wal-Mart, Boaters World and a number of other places. Separate ground wire will solve a lot of headaches in advance, as previously mentioned. I believe in soldering all the connections, not using the wire nuts or saddle connectors supplied with the kit. Also agree that trying to use any of the old stuff is a waste of time. Cut it all off and start fresh.
Ed Z posted 05-25-2003 01:44 PM ET (US)
I use the shrink wrap type with the hot melt glue (got them at West Marine) as this makes for a water tight connection... This type is used in the plumbing business on the submersable type pumps (110 volts and constantly submerged)... I have found that the connections were as corrosion free after 10 years with this method... All the other bare metal areas (bulb sockets, etc) I use alot of Vasoline (or anti-seaze grease)and again after 10 years have no corrosion... Put Vasoline in the plug connecter too (car side and trailer side... Use a direct wire to the car's lighting ground as well as to the trailer frame (I use a "Y" connector)...
As yet I have not used the new Diode type lights, but have heard great success stories on them... Next time thats what I'll be using...
jimh posted 05-25-2003 03:48 PM ET (US)
This would have made a great discussion for posting to the Repairs and Modification forum.
Too bad it ended up here in the General.
Questions about how to accomplish repairs of modifications are always most appropriate in the Repairs and Mods forum.
DaveS posted 05-27-2003 08:51 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the advise, I think I'll be upgrading in a week or two, weather permitting. I greatly appreciate everyone's imput.
Jim,
Upon further reflection, you're right, I should have used the repair/modification section but for some reason, which escapes me at this time, it seemed perfectly reasonable at the time of the post.
Thanks again!
DaveS
DaveS posted 05-30-2003 10:54 PM ET (US)
Just finished rewiring my trailer and am very happy with it. I decided to follow the advice and go with the entire harness and not just the lights. I did have one little bit of trouble, as I was feeding one set of wires through the tubing I suddenly felt it give way...the two pieces of wire I had tied together came undone and I was holding the short end of the stick! With much humility, I went to see my neighbor, an electrician, about the best way to fish the new wire through...he was great...didn't even laugh, just got his fish and in about 10 minutes, I was back in business. I guess I owe him something...
Thanks again for all the help...I just love this site!
DaveS
triblet posted 05-31-2003 12:24 AM ET (US)
Lessee, what's an electrician make? Those ten
minutes outght to be worth at least a sixpack.
Vaseline is the WRONG stuff. It melts and
migrates when the weather gets hot. And it's
at least sorta washable. Dow Corning 111
stays put when it's hot and does NOT wash out
(it's made for lubing water valves), even with
hot soapy water (waterless hand cleaner does
work).
The biggest problem with the LED lights is
that none of them have a license plate light.
Yet. Somebody's gonna manufacture a solution
to that problem by and by (Solving it is no
sweat, finding someone to manufacture it is
another story).
I wouldn't use extension cord on a boat
trailer. It's not tinned. Ancor has a
marine grade 16 guage trailer wire that's
tinned (and so better). And the second
jacket is a solution in search of a problem.
Almost all trailer wiring problems are the
connections, not insulation failures which
the second jacket solves. And the Ancor has
an outer jacket anyway.

Chuck
Mike Brantley posted 05-31-2003 01:30 AM ET (US)
The LED light kit I bought at Wal-Mart last week for $50 does have a white license plate light that shines down from the left light assembly. I'm not using it because a license plate is not required on my trailer in Alabama, so I haven't looked really close to see how this was engineered.
triblet posted 05-31-2003 08:47 AM ET (US)
That's good news, Mike.
Chuck

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Author	Topic: re-wiring shorelandr trailer
DaveS	posted 05-20-2003 03:35 PM ET (US) My 1989 Shorelandr's wiring has seen better days. I'm about ready to pull the old wires and install a new wiring harness, my main question is, how do I go about replacing the wiring? Are there any tricks of the trade that would help? Just trying to make a job a little bit easier. Thanks for the help! DaveS
Landlocked	posted 05-20-2003 04:59 PM ET (US) I've done this several times. In my opinion - unless you are using a completely pre-fab harness, its pretty much figure it out as you go. There isn't much to it. Make sure you have a good grounding point on the trailer by sanding off a spot for the ground wire to attach. Also, make sure to seal all connections with liquid tape. I do this after putting the wire cap on. It usually takes a couple of coats before I feel like the connection is water-tight. Also - I'd consider replacing lights water tight LED models. If you are installing a new pigtail/harness and aren't sure about color codes, a circuit tester (sharp probe with a ground and a light) makes the job much easier. Other more knowlegable folks may have more to contribute. Ll.
HAPPYJIM	posted 05-20-2003 05:12 PM ET (US) LED is worth the money and make sure that they are waterproof. Make sure you leave about a foot or more than what is necessary to connect to your vehicle. The extra comes in handy if towed by another vehicle. It is also nice to have extra if you forget to connect it and drag the connector for several miles.
FLUKEDUKE	posted 05-20-2003 05:18 PM ET (US) Silicone grease, available in most automotive parts stores, may be called disk brake grease, is great stuff for all electrical connections and boulb sockets, works for the boat wiring too.
Over the LINE	posted 05-20-2003 10:36 PM ET (US) The biggest "trick" I know is do it when the boat is not on the trailer. It sure is a lot easier to work from the top. Also use the old wires to "pull" the new wires through tubing instead of "fishing" them. I use shrink tubing and have been very satisfied with how the conections hold up. Lastly, do not try to re-use anything. If it is time to change the system, change the whole thing. Good Luck
andygere	posted 05-21-2003 12:43 AM ET (US) Many cheaper wiring systems rely on the connection between the hitch ball and the trailer for ground. I prefer to use a harness with a ground wire, which ensures a good ground all the time. If you have guide-ons or bunk style side guides, mount the tail lights on them to keep them out of the water. It also gets the lights up at eye level making them easier to see.
where2	posted 05-21-2003 12:51 PM ET (US) Along the thought that Andy had, my last rewiring of the trailer included a separate wire for grounding. Since the main problem I usually had was a grounding problem between the light housing and the trailer frame, I hardwired grounds to each LED light. (Yes, I went with LED's). The end result is a system where everything is fed through a wire. Nothing requires grounding through the trailer itself. Even the side marker lights have separate ground wires. If you want to Splurge, use marine grade wire in place of the cheap stuff that comes with the lights. Tinned wire is worth the trouble, really...
Tims_Tub	posted 05-22-2003 12:33 PM ET (US) A 16/3 Extension Cord with the ends cut off works much better than the trailer harness wiring because it has a tough outer jacket. Depending on the size of your trailer, you might even be able to find one cheaper than the premade harness. I actually rewired my trailer with Intermatic Malibu Low Voltage Lighting Cable and it works great, the cunductors are just a bit difficult to tell apart. You also still have to buy the plug connector and splice onto the end. Also, the pigtail sticking out of the tounge ought to be encased in a hose or tube, this will prevent much of the damage and resulting shorting between the wires and frame/hitch/chains. TT
Andy Holmes	posted 05-24-2003 10:12 PM ET (US) I just went through this. Used a pre-fab harness and submersible lights available at Wal-Mart, Boaters World and a number of other places. Separate ground wire will solve a lot of headaches in advance, as previously mentioned. I believe in soldering all the connections, not using the wire nuts or saddle connectors supplied with the kit. Also agree that trying to use any of the old stuff is a waste of time. Cut it all off and start fresh.
Ed Z	posted 05-25-2003 01:44 PM ET (US) I use the shrink wrap type with the hot melt glue (got them at West Marine) as this makes for a water tight connection... This type is used in the plumbing business on the submersable type pumps (110 volts and constantly submerged)... I have found that the connections were as corrosion free after 10 years with this method... All the other bare metal areas (bulb sockets, etc) I use alot of Vasoline (or anti-seaze grease)and again after 10 years have no corrosion... Put Vasoline in the plug connecter too (car side and trailer side... Use a direct wire to the car's lighting ground as well as to the trailer frame (I use a "Y" connector)... As yet I have not used the new Diode type lights, but have heard great success stories on them... Next time thats what I'll be using...
jimh	posted 05-25-2003 03:48 PM ET (US) This would have made a great discussion for posting to the Repairs and Modification forum. Too bad it ended up here in the General. Questions about how to accomplish repairs of modifications are always most appropriate in the Repairs and Mods forum.
DaveS	posted 05-27-2003 08:51 AM ET (US) Thanks for the advise, I think I'll be upgrading in a week or two, weather permitting. I greatly appreciate everyone's imput. Jim, Upon further reflection, you're right, I should have used the repair/modification section but for some reason, which escapes me at this time, it seemed perfectly reasonable at the time of the post. Thanks again! DaveS
DaveS	posted 05-30-2003 10:54 PM ET (US) Just finished rewiring my trailer and am very happy with it. I decided to follow the advice and go with the entire harness and not just the lights. I did have one little bit of trouble, as I was feeding one set of wires through the tubing I suddenly felt it give way...the two pieces of wire I had tied together came undone and I was holding the short end of the stick! With much humility, I went to see my neighbor, an electrician, about the best way to fish the new wire through...he was great...didn't even laugh, just got his fish and in about 10 minutes, I was back in business. I guess I owe him something... Thanks again for all the help...I just love this site! DaveS
triblet	posted 05-31-2003 12:24 AM ET (US) Lessee, what's an electrician make? Those ten minutes outght to be worth at least a sixpack. Vaseline is the WRONG stuff. It melts and migrates when the weather gets hot. And it's at least sorta washable. Dow Corning 111 stays put when it's hot and does NOT wash out (it's made for lubing water valves), even with hot soapy water (waterless hand cleaner does work). The biggest problem with the LED lights is that none of them have a license plate light. Yet. Somebody's gonna manufacture a solution to that problem by and by (Solving it is no sweat, finding someone to manufacture it is another story). I wouldn't use extension cord on a boat trailer. It's not tinned. Ancor has a marine grade 16 guage trailer wire that's tinned (and so better). And the second jacket is a solution in search of a problem. Almost all trailer wiring problems are the connections, not insulation failures which the second jacket solves. And the Ancor has an outer jacket anyway. Chuck
Mike Brantley	posted 05-31-2003 01:30 AM ET (US) The LED light kit I bought at Wal-Mart last week for $50 does have a white license plate light that shines down from the left light assembly. I'm not using it because a license plate is not required on my trailer in Alabama, so I haven't looked really close to see how this was engineered.
triblet	posted 05-31-2003 08:47 AM ET (US) That's good news, Mike. Chuck