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Author Topic:   Help for a Potential Newbie

Goosedog posted 07-22-2003 01:48 PM ET (US)
Understanding this is an almost impossible request, I would love some advice. I have been told of a 1980 Outrage V20 for sale with original 1980 Mercury 150. It is on a trade-in at the dealership and people I trust tell me it is in great shape - no additions or modifications, other than radio and gps. The engine apparently runs great and compression test came up good. Cosmetically, the boat looks great. Dealer is looking to sell in the $10-11K range. It will be detailed and outfitted with new trailer prior to sale. Any insights? Does anyone have or seen lists of items for potential buyers to inspect prior to purchase? Also, I look to use the boat for soundside recreation, fairweather king fishing (10-15 miles off NC coast) and the occassional lake trip.
Just looking to see if this is in the range. Sorry I don't know more, but new to the game. Also, I own 1985 and 1989 Landcruisers -- so the classic factor has its appeal. Thanks in advance.
Lars Simonsen posted 07-23-2003 06:31 PM ET (US)
If the boat is in good shape, the price doesn't sound unreasonable (but I'm no expert on outrage prices), particularly if it includes a trailer. The thing I would be concerned about would be the motor. I would question how much life is left in a 1980 outboard. I think these older mercury motors are pretty reliable, but you're still talking about a motor that's 23 years old. Low hours isn't necessarily a good thing on an older motor, either. THe older motors are carbureted instead of fuel injected or direct injected, which is a more proven and reliable technology, but those motors are far less efficient (more blue smoke, fewer miles per gallon). I've always believe that a motor has no more than one rebuild in it. SO if the motor has already been rebuilt once, it's truly on it's last leg. If it hasn't been rebuilt, you should mentally budget a couple thousand dollars for a rebuild, if it becomes necessary.
THere was a recent discussion on this forum about leakdown tests vs. compression tests. YOu might want to get a leakdown test done on the motor. I would also suggest you look at the trim cylinders to see if the seals are in good shape. Often, the electric motor that drives the hydraulic pump on the tilt/trim unit corrodes; check that, too. Check spark plug wires to be sure they're in good shape (no dry rot etc.). Look at the lower unit oil to be sure there's no sign of water (milky looking oil). Make sure the tell tale shows a good stream of water. Definitely take the boat out for a test ride. Idle it for a good while and make sure it continues to run smoothly, and keep an eye on the temperature guage. Also run the boat at wide open throttle, then go back down to idle and see if that causes the motor to overheat. That's about all I can think of at the moment, but I'm sure there's plenty more that you should look at.
On the hull, you need to look to be sure it's not waterlogged. Look for cracks and holes or repairs in the hull. If you can, remove a screw if there are any below the water line to see if water drips from the screw hole; if so, you have some water in the hull. Check all the thru-hull to be sure they've got the brass fittings (liners) in them; this can be a primary cause of water intrusion. Check whether it has an aluminum or plastic gas tank. There were some posts a while bag about problems with the aluminum tanks, but I didn't pay much attention to them as I don't have one.
Good luck!
Lars
Lars Simonsen posted 07-23-2003 06:35 PM ET (US)
One other thing . .
On the hull, you should check for "delamination"; i.e. separation of the fiberglass from the foam. You can do this by tapping on the hull with a rubber mallet and listening for the sound. The hull is one piece so it should sound solid.
Sal DiMercurio posted 07-23-2003 10:32 PM ET (US)
Lars covered it pretty good.
Be especially aware that if the fuel tank hasen't been replaced, it will need to be very shotly.
As for the cost, it all depends where your at, here in North central Calif [ San Francisco ] during the heart of the salmon run out the gate, it will fetch much more then it would in Sacramento, 60 miles inland on the Sacramento river.
The only thing i'd be "VERY" concerned about is the engine & fuel tank.
Sal

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Author	Topic: Help for a Potential Newbie
Goosedog	posted 07-22-2003 01:48 PM ET (US) Understanding this is an almost impossible request, I would love some advice. I have been told of a 1980 Outrage V20 for sale with original 1980 Mercury 150. It is on a trade-in at the dealership and people I trust tell me it is in great shape - no additions or modifications, other than radio and gps. The engine apparently runs great and compression test came up good. Cosmetically, the boat looks great. Dealer is looking to sell in the $10-11K range. It will be detailed and outfitted with new trailer prior to sale. Any insights? Does anyone have or seen lists of items for potential buyers to inspect prior to purchase? Also, I look to use the boat for soundside recreation, fairweather king fishing (10-15 miles off NC coast) and the occassional lake trip. Just looking to see if this is in the range. Sorry I don't know more, but new to the game. Also, I own 1985 and 1989 Landcruisers -- so the classic factor has its appeal. Thanks in advance.
Lars Simonsen	posted 07-23-2003 06:31 PM ET (US) If the boat is in good shape, the price doesn't sound unreasonable (but I'm no expert on outrage prices), particularly if it includes a trailer. The thing I would be concerned about would be the motor. I would question how much life is left in a 1980 outboard. I think these older mercury motors are pretty reliable, but you're still talking about a motor that's 23 years old. Low hours isn't necessarily a good thing on an older motor, either. THe older motors are carbureted instead of fuel injected or direct injected, which is a more proven and reliable technology, but those motors are far less efficient (more blue smoke, fewer miles per gallon). I've always believe that a motor has no more than one rebuild in it. SO if the motor has already been rebuilt once, it's truly on it's last leg. If it hasn't been rebuilt, you should mentally budget a couple thousand dollars for a rebuild, if it becomes necessary. THere was a recent discussion on this forum about leakdown tests vs. compression tests. YOu might want to get a leakdown test done on the motor. I would also suggest you look at the trim cylinders to see if the seals are in good shape. Often, the electric motor that drives the hydraulic pump on the tilt/trim unit corrodes; check that, too. Check spark plug wires to be sure they're in good shape (no dry rot etc.). Look at the lower unit oil to be sure there's no sign of water (milky looking oil). Make sure the tell tale shows a good stream of water. Definitely take the boat out for a test ride. Idle it for a good while and make sure it continues to run smoothly, and keep an eye on the temperature guage. Also run the boat at wide open throttle, then go back down to idle and see if that causes the motor to overheat. That's about all I can think of at the moment, but I'm sure there's plenty more that you should look at. On the hull, you need to look to be sure it's not waterlogged. Look for cracks and holes or repairs in the hull. If you can, remove a screw if there are any below the water line to see if water drips from the screw hole; if so, you have some water in the hull. Check all the thru-hull to be sure they've got the brass fittings (liners) in them; this can be a primary cause of water intrusion. Check whether it has an aluminum or plastic gas tank. There were some posts a while bag about problems with the aluminum tanks, but I didn't pay much attention to them as I don't have one. Good luck! Lars
Lars Simonsen	posted 07-23-2003 06:35 PM ET (US) One other thing . . On the hull, you should check for "delamination"; i.e. separation of the fiberglass from the foam. You can do this by tapping on the hull with a rubber mallet and listening for the sound. The hull is one piece so it should sound solid.
Sal DiMercurio	posted 07-23-2003 10:32 PM ET (US) Lars covered it pretty good. Be especially aware that if the fuel tank hasen't been replaced, it will need to be very shotly. As for the cost, it all depends where your at, here in North central Calif [ San Francisco ] during the heart of the salmon run out the gate, it will fetch much more then it would in Sacramento, 60 miles inland on the Sacramento river. The only thing i'd be "VERY" concerned about is the engine & fuel tank. Sal