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Author Topic:   Proper speed for trailer with 12 inch tires

jimithing posted 08-04-2003 04:57 PM ET (US)
Leaving from Virginia, Wed to go to Jacksonville, Fla with my 15 sport in tow.
Just had the bearings replaced and repacked...........very pitted.
What is an appropriate speed to travel on the interstate without causing undue stess and friction to the tires and bearings on such a small trailer.
Boat will be relatively light with no extra weight or gear placed in it.
Thanks
HAPPYJIM posted 08-04-2003 06:01 PM ET (US)
If you don't have anyy miles on the trailer, take it for a test drive first before leaving for JAX.
Drive it at highway speeds for 5 minutes then feel the hubs with your fingertips...if it is warm drive back home and check it again. If it is warmer don't leave on the trip without fixing it again. Never leave on a long trip on someting that has just been fixed...always test it first. Better to repair it close to home than on the side of 95 with tractor trailers wizzing by doing 80mph!
Gene in NC posted 08-04-2003 07:27 PM ET (US)
Towed Montauk on 535/12 tires Raleigh to Tampa in late March at 70 in 3rd gear AT. Thought 70 might be too slow for I95 traffic but no prob.
For towing w AT serious consideration should be given to synthetic trans fluid. Have trans fluid temp guage on my Chev Sub 350. That fluid gets hot. With synthetic fluid and change at 30k m the trans has 183k m with plenty of single horse trailer towing in its log. See internet for table on trans fluid life at elevated fluid temp.
At evey stop good idea to shake both trailer wheels to make sure bolts have not worked loose and the bearings were correctly torqued.
Jamie 20 outrage posted 08-04-2003 09:09 PM ET (US)
My brothers just towed a 17 foot whaler from West Palm to eastern Long Island in 19 hours. They told me that they kept it below 80mph. Trailer was a continental ec3 {small} with twelve inch tires. They had one of those infrared temp. guns. They said the rubber on the tires was hotter than the bearings and were not worried. Amazing what people do to get a whaler!!
ryanwhaler posted 08-04-2003 09:37 PM ET (US)
I've got 12inch tires on my trailer.
Last year my dad pulled it from MA to ME doing 75-80 the whole way, not any prolbems to speak of.
whalerron posted 08-04-2003 11:29 PM ET (US)
If the bearings are setup and lubed correctly, the wheel RPMs are not going to hurt the bearings. Those small tires are going to be the limiting factor. They will run the coolest if they are inflated to their maximum psi. If they are good highway tires and if they are not overloaded, 70 mph should not be out of the question.
Stellario posted 08-04-2003 11:35 PM ET (US)
Timely posts that fill me with the confidence I needed. I'm heading to Lake George upstate NY, from LI (5ish hour trip). I expect to keep my Montauk under 70 with 13 incher's.
Just called Sea Tow this afternoon, added trailering coverage to my gold membership for $10/year, also confirmed, they have a Captin on Lake George too!
timbaho posted 08-05-2003 08:48 AM ET (US)
jimithing,
Been there done that.The best money you can spend for peace of mind on your trailer will be a spare hub assembly (as well as a spare tire)especially with a single axle trailer. Same spare advice holds true for props. Spinning a prop offshore makes for a potentially dangerous situation. Always keep a spare prop and nut as well as the minimum tools to change it on the boat with you at all times.Kevin
jimh posted 08-05-2003 09:16 AM ET (US)
The maximum legal speed at which a passenger vehicle may operate when towing another "vehicle" is often limited by state law.
In Michigan, home of over one million boats and most of those on trailers, the law prohibits towing in excess of 55-MPH, with a couple of exemptions.
jimithing posted 08-05-2003 11:34 AM ET (US)
This is all good advice......I appreciate it.
I have highway tested the trailer after the bearings were replaced.....70 miles at 65mph....and they were cool to the touch throughout the trip.
I intend to carry spare everything and then call AAA if there is is problem. HE-HE
I just wish that I had 13 inchers on this rig.....so much more peace of mind.
BTW, why do I need a whole hub assembly when it is usually the bearings that get torn up?....I have seen hubs rusted to pieces last a long time.....
Thanks
HAPPYJIM posted 08-05-2003 11:45 AM ET (US)
The hub assembly has everything you need instead of carrying all of the pieces. The hub assembly is cheaper than the total of all the pieces also.

Make sure your spare is properly inflated to the max pressure and have a safe trip.
rwest posted 08-05-2003 03:26 PM ET (US)
I guess I live on another panet. First off, I lost a wheel on a single axle trailer with a 16 Whaler several years ago. The wheel passed me on the highway and went over 50 yds past where I was able to stop.I was traveling at 50 MPH which was below the LEGAL highway speed of 55. I was able to bring the rig to a safe stop mainly due to luck and the fact I was not running at a higher speed. Around here 55 is listed as the Max speed for any vehicle but it doesn't mean you have to go that fast or faster. Me, I want to get there with my Whaler in one piece. There is usually a second lane for folks to drive in if they don't want to be behind me.
simonmeridew posted 08-06-2003 08:20 PM ET (US)

jimithing
please see my post from about two weeks ago in the repairs section of this forum regarding a hub on my trailer (3 year old trailer) which self destructed coming back from Lake Willoughby. I was going 45 mph or less the whole trip(probably 18 miles or so)and based on the amount of grease flung outward on the inside of the fender as well as on the inside and outside of the rim and tire, there was plenty of grease on the hub at the time of failure. Personally I would NEVER attempt a long towing expedition with bearings that were pitted, no matter how well greased they were. New bearings can be had(along with a new grease seal) for probably $16. for both sides. I think harmonics set up in bad bearings which accelerate the wear factor and the cages that the bearings ride in may break apart and get pieces of steel running around the rollers--it's only a matter of time.
simonmeridew
lorenzo1 posted 08-07-2003 10:02 PM ET (US)
FOR tires only: The other posts are excellent on bearings.
Except do not trust "those grease loaded hubs" More than one mechanic told me He found the bearings behind those hubs worse than regular hubs, check them every year
Be sure to weigh the axle so you are not overloading the tires, then make sure they are fully inflated.
It is so easy to put lots of stuff in the boat! That it is imprtant to weigh it. My Family overloaded our Boat with fascinating pieces of "Driftwood" on one trip---
The next trip a tire that was not overlaoded gave up from previous overstress.
Underinflated or overloaded tires get hot and explode--been there done that!
If the small tires are not rated for enough load; get stronger ones, shop around for industrial tires with a high load rating, Boat Trailer tires may not be the best buy!
I had trouble with one Boat/Trailer Combo twenty years ago until I got rid of the trailer tires and put on Industrial tires. Call the tire maker if you need more info; but after weighing the trailer.
Out West everyone drives 75 even on hot days--Seldom do I see a boat trailer in trouble. Get good tires.
Lorenzo
Davey1000 posted 03-13-2014 05:23 PM ET (US)
Hi! I'd just like to give my ten cents worth on the 12" tyre topic. (The problems encountered were the result of being sweet-talked into moving a sail-boat for a friend) Unfortunately at least a ton of extra concrete ballast had been installed and the boat was nothing like the weight that it was supposed to be.
In the UK there is not a lot of choice in 12" tyres for under-deck trailers. Originally a lot of these trailers were fitted with the Michelin 6.00 R9 steel braced radial tyre that had a Load Rating of 109 (over one long ton!)at 116 psi. Of course with the Health And Safety At Work Act that came in about thirty years ago getting the 116 psi is now rather difficult! (you have to have your own compressor as the local tyre fitters compressor is limited to 90 psi by Health & Safety. Supermarket air lines are usually limited to 65 psi which is even worse!)
The stud pattern of the old 6.00 R9 wheels will be the limiting factor and on pre 1988 Avonride hubs 5 x 5/8" studs on 5.5" PCD was the norm. Unless one has wheels specially made the only available modern wheels are 12" with a 4.5J rim. The tyre sizes which will fit are 155/70 R12 8 ply which is rated to carry 950 kilos at 95 psi (the rating varies with the brand) The other size is 185/60 R12 which again is only rated for 950 kilos even though it appears to be a better tyre. The old Michelin 6.00 R9 is a hard act to follow and nothing, absolutely nothing, in a similar overall diameter carries weight like the old Michelins. (Modern 6.00 x 9 tyres are typically only rated for 690 kilos unless one buys Fork Lift Tyres, Port Tyres or Industrial Tyres) Unfortunately the tremendous load capacity comes with a speed limit of about 20 mph and they are not Highway Rated (not even the steel braced tyres which are supposedly equivalent to the Michelins) In practice the 20 mph tyres will allegedly run OK at 60 mph if the weight is greatly reduced but over here this is illegal.
If one can go up to a 13" tyre the excellent 185/70 R13 8 ply can be used which has a Load Rating of 106. (these are considerably bigger than the 6.00 R9 however and they might not fit an under-deck) The problem with the 13" wheels is the stud pattern of 5 x 5/8" studs on 6.5" PCD (this is the same as Land Rover Defender and the classic Range Rover) Unfortunately the old pattern trailer hubs with the Lockheed brake cannot easily be re-studded as owing to a chamfer there is not enough space to move-out the studs.
With "wheels outside" trailers one can use 4x4 wheels and tyre problems should then be a thing of the past.
PS For trailers which go into the water it is advisable to avoid wheels that have inner tubes as the wheels may rust from the inside. When carrying a considerable weight it is a good idea to have left handed studs on the left hand side. Unfortunately these are not particularly easy to obtain. The 1972 Dodge D300 pickup truck did however use 5/8" left hand studs and nuts on the left hand side and these studs and nuts are still available. Shipping and taxes are the problem over here as they ramp-up the cost by six times! Plan B is to re-machine some Range Rover studs or 18mm tractor wheel studs as the stud holes in the damaged hub are nominally 18mm.
Good luck!
Alan Heckman posted 03-14-2014 07:14 AM ET (US)
12 inch hub assembly $30 in my neck of the woods,cheap insurance for your baby on a long trip. Slid old hub assembly off,slid new one on and you are back on your way. P.S. Make sure bearings in new hub assembly are greased and ready for instllation and don't forget a spare tire.
jimh posted 03-14-2014 09:05 AM ET (US)
Davey--I hope you realized you were reviving a thread that has been dormant for 11 years.
The suggestion to use left-hand threaded fasteners on the wheels running on the left side of the trailer is a new idea. I don't recall a mention of it before. Use of right-hand threads on wheel fasteners seem to be universal.
goldstem posted 03-14-2014 11:15 AM ET (US)
well, I am an old fart, I guess. Despite a trailer's ability, with tires and hub and tow vehicle to go at high speeds, I never go more than 60, and usually less. If you need to stop/move quickly, that trailer at 70+mph is far to likely to go sideways, and I want no part of that. a few extra minutes/hours on the road is worth it to me; I don't care if everyone and their grandparents are passing me.
Jefecinco posted 03-15-2014 08:02 AM ET (US)
I believe most, if not all, trailer tires are rated for speeds of 65 MPH or LESS. I do not exceed 65 MPH except when passing when using trailer tires.
Butch
fno posted 03-15-2014 10:59 AM ET (US)
If you are following the advice given in another thread to change your trailer tires every 3-4 years whether they need it or not. I would be inclined to suggest no more than 45 if the limit is 65. If the speed limit is 70, do no more than 50-55. You will be sure to get there safely albeit somewhat exasperated by so many hours driving. More reasonably, as your equipment seems to be in order, go as fast as the law (read: patrol officers), weather, traffic, and road conditions will allow. Check your tires, bearings, hitch,winch, straps and lights every time you stop for fuel or bathroom breaks and you will catch most problems before they become a roadside disaster.
dgoodhue posted 03-15-2014 07:03 PM ET (US)
I don't know where you drive but around here 65mph limit means many of the cars are driving 70-75mph. it is rare that anyone is driving less than 60. Driving 45mph with other car driving 70-75 is down right dangerous. Driving too slow can cause an accident. If your going to be limit your top speed to 45mph I would take an alternative non highway route.
I usually tow my boat around 65mph and leave plenty of room for increased braking distance. I always check my bearing and tires 15 minutes into my ride & hour in on my two hour drive my boat takes every spring and fall.
Tom W Clark posted 03-15-2014 07:26 PM ET (US)
California has a few places where the speed limit is really high but regardless of where in the state you are, if you are towing a boat trailer (or any other type of trailer) the speed limit is 55 MPH. Period.
In Washington State the trailer speed limit is the posted speed limit. Two days ago I drover two brand new trailers, with 4.80-12" tires, down I-5, at times slightly exceeding the posted 70 MPH speed limit. I kept forgetting I had the trailers in tow. They didn't seem to mind.
contender posted 03-15-2014 07:28 PM ET (US)
We have talked about this subject before, I have tried to tell all to put larger/bigger tires on your boat trailer. The smaller the tire the faster it has to turn to keep up with your tow vehicle. Thus the faster it heats up and more turns on the bearing (laugh, but it all adds up) The smallest tire I have is a 14 inch dia on my 11 whaler trailer, it only gets towed a short distance and no more than 50 mph. Nothing ruins a boat trip more than problems on the road with the trailer or a traffic ticket....
fno posted 03-16-2014 05:10 PM ET (US)

Dave, I was being facetious with my comments about going 45-55 on a 65-70 speed limit.
Chuck Tribolet posted 03-16-2014 07:38 PM ET (US)
In Arizona the rural freeway speed limit is 75MPH for
everything but school buses.
In California, it's 70MPH for "cars" buses, and motorhomes, and 55MPH for trucks, and anything towing. That 15MPH
difference can be scary. The only saving grace is that the
55MPH vehicles have to stay in the right lane (or right two
lines if four or more lanes in that direction) unless activly
passing.
Chuck
EJO posted 03-17-2014 01:01 PM ET (US)
I read this old/new thread and took notice of all the comments.
The original poster asked about tires not bearings/hubs, etc.
Therefore the answer is whatever the tire is rated for. All tires have a load and speed rating, so check that.
All comments and advise given were valid in regards to checking and re-checking temperatures, pressure, brakes, etc. as it could indicate a problem.
Happy trailering.

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Author	Topic: Proper speed for trailer with 12 inch tires
jimithing	posted 08-04-2003 04:57 PM ET (US) Leaving from Virginia, Wed to go to Jacksonville, Fla with my 15 sport in tow. Just had the bearings replaced and repacked...........very pitted. What is an appropriate speed to travel on the interstate without causing undue stess and friction to the tires and bearings on such a small trailer. Boat will be relatively light with no extra weight or gear placed in it. Thanks
HAPPYJIM	posted 08-04-2003 06:01 PM ET (US) If you don't have anyy miles on the trailer, take it for a test drive first before leaving for JAX. Drive it at highway speeds for 5 minutes then feel the hubs with your fingertips...if it is warm drive back home and check it again. If it is warmer don't leave on the trip without fixing it again. Never leave on a long trip on someting that has just been fixed...always test it first. Better to repair it close to home than on the side of 95 with tractor trailers wizzing by doing 80mph!
Gene in NC	posted 08-04-2003 07:27 PM ET (US) Towed Montauk on 535/12 tires Raleigh to Tampa in late March at 70 in 3rd gear AT. Thought 70 might be too slow for I95 traffic but no prob. For towing w AT serious consideration should be given to synthetic trans fluid. Have trans fluid temp guage on my Chev Sub 350. That fluid gets hot. With synthetic fluid and change at 30k m the trans has 183k m with plenty of single horse trailer towing in its log. See internet for table on trans fluid life at elevated fluid temp. At evey stop good idea to shake both trailer wheels to make sure bolts have not worked loose and the bearings were correctly torqued.
Jamie 20 outrage	posted 08-04-2003 09:09 PM ET (US) My brothers just towed a 17 foot whaler from West Palm to eastern Long Island in 19 hours. They told me that they kept it below 80mph. Trailer was a continental ec3 {small} with twelve inch tires. They had one of those infrared temp. guns. They said the rubber on the tires was hotter than the bearings and were not worried. Amazing what people do to get a whaler!!
ryanwhaler	posted 08-04-2003 09:37 PM ET (US) I've got 12inch tires on my trailer. Last year my dad pulled it from MA to ME doing 75-80 the whole way, not any prolbems to speak of.
whalerron	posted 08-04-2003 11:29 PM ET (US) If the bearings are setup and lubed correctly, the wheel RPMs are not going to hurt the bearings. Those small tires are going to be the limiting factor. They will run the coolest if they are inflated to their maximum psi. If they are good highway tires and if they are not overloaded, 70 mph should not be out of the question.
Stellario	posted 08-04-2003 11:35 PM ET (US) Timely posts that fill me with the confidence I needed. I'm heading to Lake George upstate NY, from LI (5ish hour trip). I expect to keep my Montauk under 70 with 13 incher's. Just called Sea Tow this afternoon, added trailering coverage to my gold membership for $10/year, also confirmed, they have a Captin on Lake George too!
timbaho	posted 08-05-2003 08:48 AM ET (US) jimithing, Been there done that.The best money you can spend for peace of mind on your trailer will be a spare hub assembly (as well as a spare tire)especially with a single axle trailer. Same spare advice holds true for props. Spinning a prop offshore makes for a potentially dangerous situation. Always keep a spare prop and nut as well as the minimum tools to change it on the boat with you at all times.Kevin
jimh	posted 08-05-2003 09:16 AM ET (US) The maximum legal speed at which a passenger vehicle may operate when towing another "vehicle" is often limited by state law. In Michigan, home of over one million boats and most of those on trailers, the law prohibits towing in excess of 55-MPH, with a couple of exemptions.
jimithing	posted 08-05-2003 11:34 AM ET (US) This is all good advice......I appreciate it. I have highway tested the trailer after the bearings were replaced.....70 miles at 65mph....and they were cool to the touch throughout the trip. I intend to carry spare everything and then call AAA if there is is problem. HE-HE I just wish that I had 13 inchers on this rig.....so much more peace of mind. BTW, why do I need a whole hub assembly when it is usually the bearings that get torn up?....I have seen hubs rusted to pieces last a long time..... Thanks
HAPPYJIM	posted 08-05-2003 11:45 AM ET (US) The hub assembly has everything you need instead of carrying all of the pieces. The hub assembly is cheaper than the total of all the pieces also. Make sure your spare is properly inflated to the max pressure and have a safe trip.
rwest	posted 08-05-2003 03:26 PM ET (US) I guess I live on another panet. First off, I lost a wheel on a single axle trailer with a 16 Whaler several years ago. The wheel passed me on the highway and went over 50 yds past where I was able to stop.I was traveling at 50 MPH which was below the LEGAL highway speed of 55. I was able to bring the rig to a safe stop mainly due to luck and the fact I was not running at a higher speed. Around here 55 is listed as the Max speed for any vehicle but it doesn't mean you have to go that fast or faster. Me, I want to get there with my Whaler in one piece. There is usually a second lane for folks to drive in if they don't want to be behind me.
simonmeridew	posted 08-06-2003 08:20 PM ET (US) jimithing please see my post from about two weeks ago in the repairs section of this forum regarding a hub on my trailer (3 year old trailer) which self destructed coming back from Lake Willoughby. I was going 45 mph or less the whole trip(probably 18 miles or so)and based on the amount of grease flung outward on the inside of the fender as well as on the inside and outside of the rim and tire, there was plenty of grease on the hub at the time of failure. Personally I would NEVER attempt a long towing expedition with bearings that were pitted, no matter how well greased they were. New bearings can be had(along with a new grease seal) for probably $16. for both sides. I think harmonics set up in bad bearings which accelerate the wear factor and the cages that the bearings ride in may break apart and get pieces of steel running around the rollers--it's only a matter of time. simonmeridew
lorenzo1	posted 08-07-2003 10:02 PM ET (US) FOR tires only: The other posts are excellent on bearings. Except do not trust "those grease loaded hubs" More than one mechanic told me He found the bearings behind those hubs worse than regular hubs, check them every year Be sure to weigh the axle so you are not overloading the tires, then make sure they are fully inflated. It is so easy to put lots of stuff in the boat! That it is imprtant to weigh it. My Family overloaded our Boat with fascinating pieces of "Driftwood" on one trip--- The next trip a tire that was not overlaoded gave up from previous overstress. Underinflated or overloaded tires get hot and explode--been there done that! If the small tires are not rated for enough load; get stronger ones, shop around for industrial tires with a high load rating, Boat Trailer tires may not be the best buy! I had trouble with one Boat/Trailer Combo twenty years ago until I got rid of the trailer tires and put on Industrial tires. Call the tire maker if you need more info; but after weighing the trailer. Out West everyone drives 75 even on hot days--Seldom do I see a boat trailer in trouble. Get good tires. Lorenzo
Davey1000	posted 03-13-2014 05:23 PM ET (US) Hi! I'd just like to give my ten cents worth on the 12" tyre topic. (The problems encountered were the result of being sweet-talked into moving a sail-boat for a friend) Unfortunately at least a ton of extra concrete ballast had been installed and the boat was nothing like the weight that it was supposed to be. In the UK there is not a lot of choice in 12" tyres for under-deck trailers. Originally a lot of these trailers were fitted with the Michelin 6.00 R9 steel braced radial tyre that had a Load Rating of 109 (over one long ton!)at 116 psi. Of course with the Health And Safety At Work Act that came in about thirty years ago getting the 116 psi is now rather difficult! (you have to have your own compressor as the local tyre fitters compressor is limited to 90 psi by Health & Safety. Supermarket air lines are usually limited to 65 psi which is even worse!) The stud pattern of the old 6.00 R9 wheels will be the limiting factor and on pre 1988 Avonride hubs 5 x 5/8" studs on 5.5" PCD was the norm. Unless one has wheels specially made the only available modern wheels are 12" with a 4.5J rim. The tyre sizes which will fit are 155/70 R12 8 ply which is rated to carry 950 kilos at 95 psi (the rating varies with the brand) The other size is 185/60 R12 which again is only rated for 950 kilos even though it appears to be a better tyre. The old Michelin 6.00 R9 is a hard act to follow and nothing, absolutely nothing, in a similar overall diameter carries weight like the old Michelins. (Modern 6.00 x 9 tyres are typically only rated for 690 kilos unless one buys Fork Lift Tyres, Port Tyres or Industrial Tyres) Unfortunately the tremendous load capacity comes with a speed limit of about 20 mph and they are not Highway Rated (not even the steel braced tyres which are supposedly equivalent to the Michelins) In practice the 20 mph tyres will allegedly run OK at 60 mph if the weight is greatly reduced but over here this is illegal. If one can go up to a 13" tyre the excellent 185/70 R13 8 ply can be used which has a Load Rating of 106. (these are considerably bigger than the 6.00 R9 however and they might not fit an under-deck) The problem with the 13" wheels is the stud pattern of 5 x 5/8" studs on 6.5" PCD (this is the same as Land Rover Defender and the classic Range Rover) Unfortunately the old pattern trailer hubs with the Lockheed brake cannot easily be re-studded as owing to a chamfer there is not enough space to move-out the studs. With "wheels outside" trailers one can use 4x4 wheels and tyre problems should then be a thing of the past. PS For trailers which go into the water it is advisable to avoid wheels that have inner tubes as the wheels may rust from the inside. When carrying a considerable weight it is a good idea to have left handed studs on the left hand side. Unfortunately these are not particularly easy to obtain. The 1972 Dodge D300 pickup truck did however use 5/8" left hand studs and nuts on the left hand side and these studs and nuts are still available. Shipping and taxes are the problem over here as they ramp-up the cost by six times! Plan B is to re-machine some Range Rover studs or 18mm tractor wheel studs as the stud holes in the damaged hub are nominally 18mm. Good luck!
Alan Heckman	posted 03-14-2014 07:14 AM ET (US) 12 inch hub assembly $30 in my neck of the woods,cheap insurance for your baby on a long trip. Slid old hub assembly off,slid new one on and you are back on your way. P.S. Make sure bearings in new hub assembly are greased and ready for instllation and don't forget a spare tire.
jimh	posted 03-14-2014 09:05 AM ET (US) Davey--I hope you realized you were reviving a thread that has been dormant for 11 years. The suggestion to use left-hand threaded fasteners on the wheels running on the left side of the trailer is a new idea. I don't recall a mention of it before. Use of right-hand threads on wheel fasteners seem to be universal.
goldstem	posted 03-14-2014 11:15 AM ET (US) well, I am an old fart, I guess. Despite a trailer's ability, with tires and hub and tow vehicle to go at high speeds, I never go more than 60, and usually less. If you need to stop/move quickly, that trailer at 70+mph is far to likely to go sideways, and I want no part of that. a few extra minutes/hours on the road is worth it to me; I don't care if everyone and their grandparents are passing me.
Jefecinco	posted 03-15-2014 08:02 AM ET (US) I believe most, if not all, trailer tires are rated for speeds of 65 MPH or LESS. I do not exceed 65 MPH except when passing when using trailer tires. Butch
fno	posted 03-15-2014 10:59 AM ET (US) If you are following the advice given in another thread to change your trailer tires every 3-4 years whether they need it or not. I would be inclined to suggest no more than 45 if the limit is 65. If the speed limit is 70, do no more than 50-55. You will be sure to get there safely albeit somewhat exasperated by so many hours driving. More reasonably, as your equipment seems to be in order, go as fast as the law (read: patrol officers), weather, traffic, and road conditions will allow. Check your tires, bearings, hitch,winch, straps and lights every time you stop for fuel or bathroom breaks and you will catch most problems before they become a roadside disaster.
dgoodhue	posted 03-15-2014 07:03 PM ET (US) I don't know where you drive but around here 65mph limit means many of the cars are driving 70-75mph. it is rare that anyone is driving less than 60. Driving 45mph with other car driving 70-75 is down right dangerous. Driving too slow can cause an accident. If your going to be limit your top speed to 45mph I would take an alternative non highway route. I usually tow my boat around 65mph and leave plenty of room for increased braking distance. I always check my bearing and tires 15 minutes into my ride & hour in on my two hour drive my boat takes every spring and fall.
Tom W Clark	posted 03-15-2014 07:26 PM ET (US) California has a few places where the speed limit is really high but regardless of where in the state you are, if you are towing a boat trailer (or any other type of trailer) the speed limit is 55 MPH. Period. In Washington State the trailer speed limit is the posted speed limit. Two days ago I drover two brand new trailers, with 4.80-12" tires, down I-5, at times slightly exceeding the posted 70 MPH speed limit. I kept forgetting I had the trailers in tow. They didn't seem to mind.
contender	posted 03-15-2014 07:28 PM ET (US) We have talked about this subject before, I have tried to tell all to put larger/bigger tires on your boat trailer. The smaller the tire the faster it has to turn to keep up with your tow vehicle. Thus the faster it heats up and more turns on the bearing (laugh, but it all adds up) The smallest tire I have is a 14 inch dia on my 11 whaler trailer, it only gets towed a short distance and no more than 50 mph. Nothing ruins a boat trip more than problems on the road with the trailer or a traffic ticket....
fno	posted 03-16-2014 05:10 PM ET (US) Dave, I was being facetious with my comments about going 45-55 on a 65-70 speed limit.
Chuck Tribolet	posted 03-16-2014 07:38 PM ET (US) In Arizona the rural freeway speed limit is 75MPH for everything but school buses. In California, it's 70MPH for "cars" buses, and motorhomes, and 55MPH for trucks, and anything towing. That 15MPH difference can be scary. The only saving grace is that the 55MPH vehicles have to stay in the right lane (or right two lines if four or more lanes in that direction) unless activly passing. Chuck
EJO	posted 03-17-2014 01:01 PM ET (US) I read this old/new thread and took notice of all the comments. The original poster asked about tires not bearings/hubs, etc. Therefore the answer is whatever the tire is rated for. All tires have a load and speed rating, so check that. All comments and advise given were valid in regards to checking and re-checking temperatures, pressure, brakes, etc. as it could indicate a problem. Happy trailering.