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Author Topic:   IPE anyone?

Salmon Tub posted 08-04-2003 07:23 PM ET (US)
No, not a silly accronym, At least I don't think so, this is the name of a new kind of wood I saw at the local lumber yard. Comes from Brazil, and is cut into planks for railing and deck work. This stuff is heavy. Much heavier than any local wood, might be closer to aluminum, heck, it might not even float! But it has a real good color to it, and it is dense. Very dense. As a matter of fact, I tried and tried, and could not get a splinter from rubbing it, could not even get a gouge into it with a finger nail, or tip of a pen. It is supposed to be impervious to water, and it is strong. I took a 6' section of 1x4, and laid it across to see how much it will flex. Could not get more than a few inches out of it when I leaned into it. On the down side, it is expensive, a 1"x4" is about $2 a foot. And I wouldn't go counting on it as a lightweight alternative to fiberglass. But, it just might be a nice alternative for some applications in a boat. The guy at the yard said most people who are buying it are buying it for their boats. Has anyone here used the stuff, or know anything more about it?
acseatsri posted 08-04-2003 08:06 PM ET (US)
I've helped a friend build decks out of it for high-end clients. It weathers to a nice silver-gray if left untreated. Ends should be sealed after cutting to avoid "checking" - hairline cracks. For nailing, it should be pre-drilled- it's that dense- it's even tough to drill compared to any wood I've ever worked with. I used some scraps for risers on my console for my electronics- it's tough to tell apart from the teak or mohogany- I'd rate it an "A" in my book as an alternative to mohogany or teak- I think it's less expensive and easier to obtain.
Also referred to as Brazilian Walnut.
OutrageMan posted 08-04-2003 08:48 PM ET (US)
It is a good outdoor wood, but it is very hard on cutting tools. If I were going to use an alternative wood, my first choice without reservation would be Khaya. Very hard to distinguish from mahogany, and has all the same great working, finishing and weathering characteristics - but at about half the cost.
Brian
Guts posted 08-04-2003 11:54 PM ET (US)
Might be (BUBINGA) or aka rose/wood, there are other names for this wood, It is very hard and I use a teak oil on it. I use it for the deck cleats for my cooler on my montauk 17... Good Stuff!!!
Guts
Stellario posted 08-05-2003 12:31 AM ET (US)
These new exotic hardwoods we're starting to see on the market are something else. I think they call IPE (pronounced Eye-Pay)"ironwood" too! Real hard stuff.
I used Brazilian Redwood (Massarenduba) on my deck, love it; Maybe a little harder than IPE, but to its detriment, it will split on the end grain more easily than IPE.
Anyway, I saved all the scraps, now I'm looking at my Whaler thinking of places I might use it.
Very pretty red color when finished. One thing though I found that Stain/Sealers/oils (Penofin etc.) don't penetrate really far (too darn hard), and therefore don't last outdoors too well. And like you said, it does silver/grey very nicely.
Oh, and the end grain sealer most use is called Anchor Seal.
Steve,

SpeedBump posted 08-05-2003 09:17 AM ET (US)
IPE is from brazil, is very dense and tough on tools. An excellent hardwood for outdoor applications , Decks, outdoor furniture, and trim. It is extreemly rot and insect resitant but beware it does have drawbacks.
People who have sensative skin can get a nasty rash from the wood, mostly when working with it. Saw dust, sanding dust etc is pretty hard on the body and lungs, wear a mask when sanding or cutting.
It is heavy, very heavy and dense. I would not use large applications of this on a whaler because it simply weighs too much. It's specific gravity is greater than teak. it would be good for thin trim, and small cleats /blocks etc. If replacing major pieces of fixtures ie consols, seats, hatches covers I would still go with mahogany for it is lighter in weight.
It is very tough on tools and must be predrilled, as with teak if you want to finish bright use oil or wipe with acetone prior to varnishing to get the oils out. also wipe with acetone to remove oils if you need to do glue ups.
On the up side it is cheaper than mahogony and teak, it's very durable, doesn't need to be finished and will simply weather to a soft grey. probably will not dryrot in your lifetime. Doesn't splinter due to close grain and tools cleanly when worked with very sharp tools.
outside of using it for small stuff on the boat it is best relagated to the back yard deck and furniture and boardwalks at the shore.
JDH posted 08-05-2003 02:20 PM ET (US)
I have been looking at using IPE to rebuild my deck and my docks. Around here, 1 x 6 runs less than Trex (which I HATE - looks like soggy cardboard).
The alternatives cost just as much these days, so to me it looks like IPE, SS fasteners. Now I just have to figure out the ideal float system - the old cedar logs are getting less bouyant...
Jim
hauptjm posted 08-05-2003 03:55 PM ET (US)
Some interesting facts regarding this wood:
IPE WOOD Facts & Information
Durability: U.S. Forest Products Laboratory’s Highest Rating- Very Durable – 25 years or more
Termite Resistance: U.S. Naval Research Laboratory’s Highest Rating – 15 years in ground without attack by termites
Fire Resistance: ASTM-E84 Tested to National Fire Protection Code’s Highest Rating – Class A Uniform Building Code’s Highest Rating – Class A Same rating as concrete or steel
Hardness: ASTM-D143 Tested; Seven times harder than Cedar, 2.5 times harder than Teak
Strength: ASTM-D143 Tested; 3 times stronger than Cedar, 3 times stronger than Teak
Density: Ipe wood is extremely heavy and averages about 64 lbs. per cubic foot. Heartwood specimens generally sink when placed in water. (Teak is roughly 30lbs. per cubic foot)
(U.S. Forest Products Laboratory Wood Handbook, 1999: U.S. Dept. of Agriculture)

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Author	Topic: IPE anyone?
Salmon Tub	posted 08-04-2003 07:23 PM ET (US) No, not a silly accronym, At least I don't think so, this is the name of a new kind of wood I saw at the local lumber yard. Comes from Brazil, and is cut into planks for railing and deck work. This stuff is heavy. Much heavier than any local wood, might be closer to aluminum, heck, it might not even float! But it has a real good color to it, and it is dense. Very dense. As a matter of fact, I tried and tried, and could not get a splinter from rubbing it, could not even get a gouge into it with a finger nail, or tip of a pen. It is supposed to be impervious to water, and it is strong. I took a 6' section of 1x4, and laid it across to see how much it will flex. Could not get more than a few inches out of it when I leaned into it. On the down side, it is expensive, a 1"x4" is about $2 a foot. And I wouldn't go counting on it as a lightweight alternative to fiberglass. But, it just might be a nice alternative for some applications in a boat. The guy at the yard said most people who are buying it are buying it for their boats. Has anyone here used the stuff, or know anything more about it?
acseatsri	posted 08-04-2003 08:06 PM ET (US) I've helped a friend build decks out of it for high-end clients. It weathers to a nice silver-gray if left untreated. Ends should be sealed after cutting to avoid "checking" - hairline cracks. For nailing, it should be pre-drilled- it's that dense- it's even tough to drill compared to any wood I've ever worked with. I used some scraps for risers on my console for my electronics- it's tough to tell apart from the teak or mohogany- I'd rate it an "A" in my book as an alternative to mohogany or teak- I think it's less expensive and easier to obtain. Also referred to as Brazilian Walnut.
OutrageMan	posted 08-04-2003 08:48 PM ET (US) It is a good outdoor wood, but it is very hard on cutting tools. If I were going to use an alternative wood, my first choice without reservation would be Khaya. Very hard to distinguish from mahogany, and has all the same great working, finishing and weathering characteristics - but at about half the cost. Brian
Guts	posted 08-04-2003 11:54 PM ET (US) Might be (BUBINGA) or aka rose/wood, there are other names for this wood, It is very hard and I use a teak oil on it. I use it for the deck cleats for my cooler on my montauk 17... Good Stuff!!! Guts
Stellario	posted 08-05-2003 12:31 AM ET (US) These new exotic hardwoods we're starting to see on the market are something else. I think they call IPE (pronounced Eye-Pay)"ironwood" too! Real hard stuff. I used Brazilian Redwood (Massarenduba) on my deck, love it; Maybe a little harder than IPE, but to its detriment, it will split on the end grain more easily than IPE. Anyway, I saved all the scraps, now I'm looking at my Whaler thinking of places I might use it. Very pretty red color when finished. One thing though I found that Stain/Sealers/oils (Penofin etc.) don't penetrate really far (too darn hard), and therefore don't last outdoors too well. And like you said, it does silver/grey very nicely. Oh, and the end grain sealer most use is called Anchor Seal. Steve,
SpeedBump	posted 08-05-2003 09:17 AM ET (US) IPE is from brazil, is very dense and tough on tools. An excellent hardwood for outdoor applications , Decks, outdoor furniture, and trim. It is extreemly rot and insect resitant but beware it does have drawbacks. People who have sensative skin can get a nasty rash from the wood, mostly when working with it. Saw dust, sanding dust etc is pretty hard on the body and lungs, wear a mask when sanding or cutting. It is heavy, very heavy and dense. I would not use large applications of this on a whaler because it simply weighs too much. It's specific gravity is greater than teak. it would be good for thin trim, and small cleats /blocks etc. If replacing major pieces of fixtures ie consols, seats, hatches covers I would still go with mahogany for it is lighter in weight. It is very tough on tools and must be predrilled, as with teak if you want to finish bright use oil or wipe with acetone prior to varnishing to get the oils out. also wipe with acetone to remove oils if you need to do glue ups. On the up side it is cheaper than mahogony and teak, it's very durable, doesn't need to be finished and will simply weather to a soft grey. probably will not dryrot in your lifetime. Doesn't splinter due to close grain and tools cleanly when worked with very sharp tools. outside of using it for small stuff on the boat it is best relagated to the back yard deck and furniture and boardwalks at the shore.
JDH	posted 08-05-2003 02:20 PM ET (US) I have been looking at using IPE to rebuild my deck and my docks. Around here, 1 x 6 runs less than Trex (which I HATE - looks like soggy cardboard). The alternatives cost just as much these days, so to me it looks like IPE, SS fasteners. Now I just have to figure out the ideal float system - the old cedar logs are getting less bouyant... Jim
hauptjm	posted 08-05-2003 03:55 PM ET (US) Some interesting facts regarding this wood: IPE WOOD Facts & Information Durability: U.S. Forest Products Laboratory’s Highest Rating- Very Durable – 25 years or more Termite Resistance: U.S. Naval Research Laboratory’s Highest Rating – 15 years in ground without attack by termites Fire Resistance: ASTM-E84 Tested to National Fire Protection Code’s Highest Rating – Class A Uniform Building Code’s Highest Rating – Class A Same rating as concrete or steel Hardness: ASTM-D143 Tested; Seven times harder than Cedar, 2.5 times harder than Teak Strength: ASTM-D143 Tested; 3 times stronger than Cedar, 3 times stronger than Teak Density: Ipe wood is extremely heavy and averages about 64 lbs. per cubic foot. Heartwood specimens generally sink when placed in water. (Teak is roughly 30lbs. per cubic foot) (U.S. Forest Products Laboratory Wood Handbook, 1999: U.S. Dept. of Agriculture)