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Author Topic:   22-REVENGE CUDDY: Water Over Transom

acassidy posted 09-08-2005 11:08 PM ET (US)
I have a 22 REVENGE CUDDY with an open transom with a 225-HP Evinrude, and I have experienced water over the transom in somewhat mildly rough conditions. First off, let me say I love the boat, the hull, and the ride. My only concern is the fact that if a wave hits the boat just right in the stern or sometimes while pulling anchor and my stern goes into the wind, water washes into the boat over the transom. I am not going to close in the transom and mount a motor bracket. I also do not feel in danger what so ever and the water rushes back over the transom and is pumped out very fast with a 1,500-GPH pump in the small sump. It is just an annoyance and will slosh around if I am not careful.
So question is, has anyone found a way to help minimize this water going over the transom on this 22 notched transom setup? I have thought of using Walleye boat transom slash guards. Anyone use these on their boat? Any ideas.
Thanks
Archie
http://www.seaofquilts.com/whaler.htm
sweetrevenge posted 09-08-2005 11:37 PM ET (US)
I have experenced the same problems. I have a 1987 REVENGE 20 WT also with the notched transom, but I also have a splashwell behind it with a 6" tall dam that runs from gunnel to gunnel. I thought of mounting Starboard on S/S hinges on top of the "dam" having it fold toward the stern in case I ever took a wave over the winshield it would wash over the starboard and over the transom. Yet when in the up position it would pervent waves from entering the cockpit.
Rockland Forever!
jimh posted 09-09-2005 09:25 AM ET (US)
Here is a bit of history on this situation:
If you compare the transom and splash well of the 18-, 20-, 22-, and 25-foot classic hulls, you will find that only the 22-foot hull has the splash well arrangement which is not full-width. I believe the reason for this is the 22-foot hull molds were the first ones made, and later designs changed the splash well configuration to a full-width well.
Eventually, around 1991 or 1992, the 22-foot hull molds were re-done and the new molds changed to a full width splash well.
The transom is not notched to a different height on the older 22-foot hulls, but it just does not have the full-width splash well to contain water coming over the transom. The result is that when water does come over the transom, a lot of it misses the splash well and ends up in the cockpit. This has been reported by owners of 22-foot hulls probably since the first one was sold.
Another difference is the depth of the splash well. On the 22-foot hull the splash well is very deep, going well below the water line and all the way down to the hull bottom, where a drain is located. On all the other boats the splash well is much shallower, and it only goes as deep as the normal waterline where the drains are located. The shallower well is normally self-draining and usually does not have water in it, or not more than an inch or two if it does have water. On the other hand, if the lower drain is open on the deep splash well there will be a foot of water in it. On some models the rear live well in the cockpit is drained into the splash well with a one-way valve.
As for how to keep water from coming over the transom, I don't see a good solution other than to install some transom boards. Perhaps you could install the transom boards only at the outer portions where there is no splash well.
Usually models with a cabin such as yours will ride a bit higher in the stern due to the weight of the cabin, and the problem of water coming over the transom will not be as acute. On my former boat, a REVENGE 20 WT, I had the transom splash well drains plugged and used a small pump to clear water if it accumulated. In two weeks of operation in the Pacific Northwest along the coast of British Columbia, we only had water come over the transom once, a result of some odd situation while transiting a narrows where fast current was running, and even then the amount of water was minimal. I suppose if you are backing down against waves you will certainly take water over the transom.
Don't feel alone, I think everyone who has a 22-foot Boston Whaler that was molded prior to c.1991 has this same problem.
Sal A posted 09-09-2005 09:30 AM ET (US)
I have seen removeable transom boards made that attach and unattach quickly.
Some guys have made them:
http://www.gelzersportfishing.com/htm%20pages/boat_photo_1.htm
And I am pretty sure some outfits make them...I'll try to dig for the links.
SpongeBob posted 09-09-2005 09:45 AM ET (US)
Our 1982 22 Outrage has twin 120's on the transom and as you can imagine frequently takes water over the stern. I have a splash board (glassed 3/8 plywood)that basicly fills the area behind the aft stern rail. The board is attatched to the inwales by barrel bolt locks on the two upper corners. The bolts slide out into holes drilled into the inwales just behind the mounting fitting for the stern rail. There are also two U clips fastened to the lower part of the splash board that clip onto the lower legs of the rail support near where they attatch to the deck. The splash board rides about 1/2 inch above the deck and is cut down at the top edges so that it extends under the gunwales almost to the sides of the hull. When a large wave comes over the transom little of it makes its way past the board. In "theory" (haven't gotten to try it yet thank goodness) if a large enough wave were to come over the splash board and flood the foward part of the boat the pressure of the water should pop the clips off the rail supports and the board would pivot backwards and up releasing the trapped water. This setup dosen't prevent all the water from reaching the stern well but it helps. It also gives sence of security, especially when young children are around.
The splash board is easily removable by simply sliding the bolts on the barrel locks out of the holes in the inwales and releasing the U clips. The only thing that I would change would be to make the splash board out of Kleggecel or Divynicel (sp) coverd with glass. The glassed plywood is fairly heavy.
I've also thought of putting a sealed hatch over the stern well. I only use mine for storage and making it water tight would be an improvement. Has anyone placed a hatch over this well.
Jeff
Sneddog posted 09-09-2005 11:02 AM ET (US)
We have the same problem on or '87 22OR w/ twin 120's and the 129 gal. fuel tank.
Here is what we have done and are just about finished so I'll be posting pictures in a couple of weeks.
Following the shape of the inner motor well we have glassed in a full height wall with a foam core. The old tank was about due to be replaced so the new one is a bit bigger than the stock 77 gal. tank so we're figuring we have about 85 odd gallons of fuel capacity now. We have reclaimed the aft kill well by glassing in a new bulkhead below decks to seperate the fuel tank and kill holds.
The transom "wall" ties nicely into the aft corners and to the unknowing eye looks "stock". Even friends who know Whalers intimately really like the way this has turned out. We even got the gelcoat to match very well.
To facilitate tilting the motors up for trailering a single "wash door" was cut out, finished and secured at the bottom with 3 large SS door hinges. Latches on the motor side of the "wall" secure the "wash door" in place while running. Through all this process we've lost 1" of deck space back aft is all. Basically this was so we could run the glass down into the aft kill well for strength.
I've got a wierd weekend comming up (skippering a buddy's Mikleson '43 for a batchelorette party at Avalon for the weekend).
Anyway we'll get some pictures up shortly so you all can see what I'm talking about. Mind you we haven't tried this in the water yet but we think it should work just fine, it better!
Cheers,
Jeff
LHG posted 09-09-2005 01:41 PM ET (US)
As I'm sure most of you are aware, most of the current 22 Guardians being built are done with a 30" transom now. This is the real solution. I don't know if the mold has been changed for this, but the CPD factory used to do this upgrade after the boat was made, the same way they did the full transom models.
So a really good fiberglass shop could make this transom upgrade. A 5" OEM engine extension kit would also then be needed, about a $500 cost. If one is keeping the boat long term, this would be the way to go
andygere posted 09-09-2005 02:32 PM ET (US)
Jimh provides a very good description of the evolution of the classic Outrage and Revenge transom configuration, but has one date that's not right. My 1989 Outrage 22 Cuddy has the full width splashwell, and I believe that 1989 and later 22 foot hulls that were manufactured in Edgewater Florida have this configuration. Note that model year does not always equate to year of manufacture, and that there are some 1989 22 foot hulls out there with the old design.
HawaiianWhaler posted 09-10-2005 07:54 AM ET (US)
I don't have any experience with water coming over the transom into my cockpit since none of my Whalers (none a pre-'91 22' hull) has had any issues like that even in the rough water we have out here, so I don't know if the below links will help or are even relevant, but take a look for what it's worth. I just happened to read about these outfits right after reading this thread so I'm just listing the links trying to be informative/helpful.
http://www.whitecapmfg.com
http://www.wavewackers.com
They do claim to be willing to custom make these things for any boat. Dunno if I'd want an ocean wave slamming into them, though. Seems like they're intended mostly for 'backtrolling', whatever that is...excuse my ignorance, but we only troll forward ;). It takes a boat bigger than most Whalers to backdown on a fish in the seas out here. Aloha.
jimh posted 09-10-2005 08:10 AM ET (US)
Perhaps the 22-foot hull mold with the full width splash well was made in Florida and used c.1989, while an older mold was still up north at Rockland.
Do we have any 1989 or newer Rockland molded 22-foot hulls?
My 1990 REVENGE 22 was molded in Rockland, I believe, and although converted to a full transom with Whaler Drive, it has the narrower splash well.
Knockerjoe posted 09-10-2005 10:20 AM ET (US)
I have seen many posts like yours and it has caused some debate. In the 22' you should be running with all plugs OUT. Any water that comes in will almost instantly go back out the drain holes. This is a self bailing boat and you will not have to rely on your bilge punmp if you leave your plugs open.
Freeport Alan posted 09-10-2005 07:32 PM ET (US)
I dont think you can always leave the plugs out, wont you get too much water in the boat when standing still & low speeds ?
acassidy posted 09-10-2005 11:52 PM ET (US)
Yes I sometimes do run with the plug out in the small sump area on the starboard side and it is self bailing but the sump area stays full of water when I do. No water goes onto the deck though. Leaving plug in and running the pump keeps it a little drier in the sump and the pump gets the water out fast. This is the only plug that I leave out, any other plug would be to low for self bailing (you have to be familiar with this hull and plug locations). That said the plug out self-bailing is not much faster than the pump. On most trips out, I get zero water in the boat and leaving plug in makes for a bone-dry sump area and deck.
Jeff and Jeff I would love to see the pictures both your setups. That sound like what I might end up doing.
I have looked at the possibility of using splashguard prefab boards on the transom, but wonder how they would hold up in open water conditions. I know up in the great lakes they get some pretty rough conditions. Back trolling never made any since to me. Couldn’t one just use a very small trolling motor on low and troll forward to get the same speed as backtrolling. There must be more to it.
Archie
andygere posted 09-11-2005 12:37 AM ET (US)
Perhaps production of the Whaler Drive boats remained in Rockland for a year or two, using the older 22 foot hull mold. This would make sense since the full width splashwell would not provide any benefit on a full transom boat. Jimh, does your boat have welded or sectional rails? This detail, anecdotally at least, seems to indicate where a hull was built during the transition period.
linust posted 09-13-2005 07:09 PM ET (US)
I have a '89 Revenge 22 WT WD made in Rockland. As noted, the splashwell design is irrelevant w/ the WD, but for the tally here, it has the older, smaller splashwell design.
LHG posted 09-13-2005 07:54 PM ET (US)
I'm sure the current Midwest Marketing Rep, who was production manager in Edgewater in 1989, could explain what was happening here. I do know that production of the Outrages switched to Edgewater first, my 1989 Outrage 25 being made there in May 1989.
It could be that the Revenge series, terminated with the 1990 models, were kept in Rockland to save on the relocation costs of a discontinued model. Like Jim says, the older mold might have been used to wrap up this line, while the new mold went to FL, where the commercial hulls were also now being made. I also noticed a 1989 Revenge 25 had some different hull details than my Outrage, so perhaps those were also made up there. I am guessing the Revenges were all made in Rockland until the series ended, while Outrage production was moved to FL, where this model was most popular?
Tom W Clark posted 09-13-2005 10:18 PM ET (US)
We're getting a bit off topic but this is interesting to me. I never before knew that a 22 Whaler Drive molded after 1989 had the older splashwell design. I had assumed that all 22s after the 1989 mid year introduction of the full width splashwell were molded that way. I think the theory of the Whaler Drive models not needing the improved splashwell makes perfect sense.
As to what Revenge models were made where I can add one bit of info about my 1988 25 Revenge Walk Through: the hull was molded in Norwell, MA but was shipped to Edgewater, FL to be finished.
Chuck Bennett told me that many of the larger Whalers made at this time were molded up north and then sent south to be finished as part of the training of the new Edgewater employees.
Andy,
The welded bow rail distinction is not as clear as we might think. At least in the case of the welded one piece bow rails on the Revenge Walk Throughs, they were made as early as 1987 by a company in Connecticut. Mine was and still has the manufacturer's sticker on it. Pete Butterfield's 1987 Revenge 22 Walk Through has the same bow rail (and sticker).
sweetrevenge posted 09-28-2005 10:33 PM ET (US)
Tom.. Are you sure your hull was made in Norwell?? If so where in Norwell? I don't recall a Whaler plant there.. I do know of the old plant in Rockland just west of Route 3 at the Hingham - Rockland exit. There is now a Home Depot where the old Boston Whaler plant once stood..
macfam posted 09-28-2005 11:25 PM ET (US)
Regarding Norwell:
Check this out:
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000176.html
njwhalerman posted 10-04-2005 05:00 PM ET (US)
For your info, I have the original plans for constructing and installing the splash board right fro C. Bennett at Whaler. I had a 88 22 Revenge before movin up to a 27 Whalerand experienced the same problem. Chuck forwarded the directions.
JIMH, maybe I can forwar a copy to you and we can post it
Tom W Clark posted 10-04-2005 05:17 PM ET (US)
Scott,
I had missed your question until now.
Yes, I mean Norwell, MA. Whaler had the plant in Rockland (which I am sure you are thinking of) and then built a second plant in Norwell in the early 1980s where they molded all their larger Whaler, i.e. 18s and up.
Sheila posted 10-04-2005 07:19 PM ET (US)
I just went back and looked at Chuck Bennett's reply to my inquiry about my 1985 Revenge's history.
He states she was built in Norwell. I completely missed that last year when I asked the question of him.
acassidy posted 10-04-2005 10:33 PM ET (US)
njwhalerman, I would really like to see pictures of the Splash Board that you are talking about. Does anyone have pictures of splash board for 22' Whaler 25" out transom. Thanks much

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Author	Topic: 22-REVENGE CUDDY: Water Over Transom
acassidy	posted 09-08-2005 11:08 PM ET (US) I have a 22 REVENGE CUDDY with an open transom with a 225-HP Evinrude, and I have experienced water over the transom in somewhat mildly rough conditions. First off, let me say I love the boat, the hull, and the ride. My only concern is the fact that if a wave hits the boat just right in the stern or sometimes while pulling anchor and my stern goes into the wind, water washes into the boat over the transom. I am not going to close in the transom and mount a motor bracket. I also do not feel in danger what so ever and the water rushes back over the transom and is pumped out very fast with a 1,500-GPH pump in the small sump. It is just an annoyance and will slosh around if I am not careful. So question is, has anyone found a way to help minimize this water going over the transom on this 22 notched transom setup? I have thought of using Walleye boat transom slash guards. Anyone use these on their boat? Any ideas. Thanks Archie http://www.seaofquilts.com/whaler.htm
sweetrevenge	posted 09-08-2005 11:37 PM ET (US) I have experenced the same problems. I have a 1987 REVENGE 20 WT also with the notched transom, but I also have a splashwell behind it with a 6" tall dam that runs from gunnel to gunnel. I thought of mounting Starboard on S/S hinges on top of the "dam" having it fold toward the stern in case I ever took a wave over the winshield it would wash over the starboard and over the transom. Yet when in the up position it would pervent waves from entering the cockpit. Rockland Forever!
jimh	posted 09-09-2005 09:25 AM ET (US) Here is a bit of history on this situation: If you compare the transom and splash well of the 18-, 20-, 22-, and 25-foot classic hulls, you will find that only the 22-foot hull has the splash well arrangement which is not full-width. I believe the reason for this is the 22-foot hull molds were the first ones made, and later designs changed the splash well configuration to a full-width well. Eventually, around 1991 or 1992, the 22-foot hull molds were re-done and the new molds changed to a full width splash well. The transom is not notched to a different height on the older 22-foot hulls, but it just does not have the full-width splash well to contain water coming over the transom. The result is that when water does come over the transom, a lot of it misses the splash well and ends up in the cockpit. This has been reported by owners of 22-foot hulls probably since the first one was sold. Another difference is the depth of the splash well. On the 22-foot hull the splash well is very deep, going well below the water line and all the way down to the hull bottom, where a drain is located. On all the other boats the splash well is much shallower, and it only goes as deep as the normal waterline where the drains are located. The shallower well is normally self-draining and usually does not have water in it, or not more than an inch or two if it does have water. On the other hand, if the lower drain is open on the deep splash well there will be a foot of water in it. On some models the rear live well in the cockpit is drained into the splash well with a one-way valve. As for how to keep water from coming over the transom, I don't see a good solution other than to install some transom boards. Perhaps you could install the transom boards only at the outer portions where there is no splash well. Usually models with a cabin such as yours will ride a bit higher in the stern due to the weight of the cabin, and the problem of water coming over the transom will not be as acute. On my former boat, a REVENGE 20 WT, I had the transom splash well drains plugged and used a small pump to clear water if it accumulated. In two weeks of operation in the Pacific Northwest along the coast of British Columbia, we only had water come over the transom once, a result of some odd situation while transiting a narrows where fast current was running, and even then the amount of water was minimal. I suppose if you are backing down against waves you will certainly take water over the transom. Don't feel alone, I think everyone who has a 22-foot Boston Whaler that was molded prior to c.1991 has this same problem.
Sal A	posted 09-09-2005 09:30 AM ET (US) I have seen removeable transom boards made that attach and unattach quickly. Some guys have made them: http://www.gelzersportfishing.com/htm%20pages/boat_photo_1.htm And I am pretty sure some outfits make them...I'll try to dig for the links.
SpongeBob	posted 09-09-2005 09:45 AM ET (US) Our 1982 22 Outrage has twin 120's on the transom and as you can imagine frequently takes water over the stern. I have a splash board (glassed 3/8 plywood)that basicly fills the area behind the aft stern rail. The board is attatched to the inwales by barrel bolt locks on the two upper corners. The bolts slide out into holes drilled into the inwales just behind the mounting fitting for the stern rail. There are also two U clips fastened to the lower part of the splash board that clip onto the lower legs of the rail support near where they attatch to the deck. The splash board rides about 1/2 inch above the deck and is cut down at the top edges so that it extends under the gunwales almost to the sides of the hull. When a large wave comes over the transom little of it makes its way past the board. In "theory" (haven't gotten to try it yet thank goodness) if a large enough wave were to come over the splash board and flood the foward part of the boat the pressure of the water should pop the clips off the rail supports and the board would pivot backwards and up releasing the trapped water. This setup dosen't prevent all the water from reaching the stern well but it helps. It also gives sence of security, especially when young children are around. The splash board is easily removable by simply sliding the bolts on the barrel locks out of the holes in the inwales and releasing the U clips. The only thing that I would change would be to make the splash board out of Kleggecel or Divynicel (sp) coverd with glass. The glassed plywood is fairly heavy. I've also thought of putting a sealed hatch over the stern well. I only use mine for storage and making it water tight would be an improvement. Has anyone placed a hatch over this well. Jeff
Sneddog	posted 09-09-2005 11:02 AM ET (US) We have the same problem on or '87 22OR w/ twin 120's and the 129 gal. fuel tank. Here is what we have done and are just about finished so I'll be posting pictures in a couple of weeks. Following the shape of the inner motor well we have glassed in a full height wall with a foam core. The old tank was about due to be replaced so the new one is a bit bigger than the stock 77 gal. tank so we're figuring we have about 85 odd gallons of fuel capacity now. We have reclaimed the aft kill well by glassing in a new bulkhead below decks to seperate the fuel tank and kill holds. The transom "wall" ties nicely into the aft corners and to the unknowing eye looks "stock". Even friends who know Whalers intimately really like the way this has turned out. We even got the gelcoat to match very well. To facilitate tilting the motors up for trailering a single "wash door" was cut out, finished and secured at the bottom with 3 large SS door hinges. Latches on the motor side of the "wall" secure the "wash door" in place while running. Through all this process we've lost 1" of deck space back aft is all. Basically this was so we could run the glass down into the aft kill well for strength. I've got a wierd weekend comming up (skippering a buddy's Mikleson '43 for a batchelorette party at Avalon for the weekend). Anyway we'll get some pictures up shortly so you all can see what I'm talking about. Mind you we haven't tried this in the water yet but we think it should work just fine, it better! Cheers, Jeff
LHG	posted 09-09-2005 01:41 PM ET (US) As I'm sure most of you are aware, most of the current 22 Guardians being built are done with a 30" transom now. This is the real solution. I don't know if the mold has been changed for this, but the CPD factory used to do this upgrade after the boat was made, the same way they did the full transom models. So a really good fiberglass shop could make this transom upgrade. A 5" OEM engine extension kit would also then be needed, about a $500 cost. If one is keeping the boat long term, this would be the way to go
andygere	posted 09-09-2005 02:32 PM ET (US) Jimh provides a very good description of the evolution of the classic Outrage and Revenge transom configuration, but has one date that's not right. My 1989 Outrage 22 Cuddy has the full width splashwell, and I believe that 1989 and later 22 foot hulls that were manufactured in Edgewater Florida have this configuration. Note that model year does not always equate to year of manufacture, and that there are some 1989 22 foot hulls out there with the old design.
HawaiianWhaler	posted 09-10-2005 07:54 AM ET (US) I don't have any experience with water coming over the transom into my cockpit since none of my Whalers (none a pre-'91 22' hull) has had any issues like that even in the rough water we have out here, so I don't know if the below links will help or are even relevant, but take a look for what it's worth. I just happened to read about these outfits right after reading this thread so I'm just listing the links trying to be informative/helpful. http://www.whitecapmfg.com http://www.wavewackers.com They do claim to be willing to custom make these things for any boat. Dunno if I'd want an ocean wave slamming into them, though. Seems like they're intended mostly for 'backtrolling', whatever that is...excuse my ignorance, but we only troll forward ;). It takes a boat bigger than most Whalers to backdown on a fish in the seas out here. Aloha.
jimh	posted 09-10-2005 08:10 AM ET (US) Perhaps the 22-foot hull mold with the full width splash well was made in Florida and used c.1989, while an older mold was still up north at Rockland. Do we have any 1989 or newer Rockland molded 22-foot hulls? My 1990 REVENGE 22 was molded in Rockland, I believe, and although converted to a full transom with Whaler Drive, it has the narrower splash well.
Knockerjoe	posted 09-10-2005 10:20 AM ET (US) I have seen many posts like yours and it has caused some debate. In the 22' you should be running with all plugs OUT. Any water that comes in will almost instantly go back out the drain holes. This is a self bailing boat and you will not have to rely on your bilge punmp if you leave your plugs open.
Freeport Alan	posted 09-10-2005 07:32 PM ET (US) I dont think you can always leave the plugs out, wont you get too much water in the boat when standing still & low speeds ?
acassidy	posted 09-10-2005 11:52 PM ET (US) Yes I sometimes do run with the plug out in the small sump area on the starboard side and it is self bailing but the sump area stays full of water when I do. No water goes onto the deck though. Leaving plug in and running the pump keeps it a little drier in the sump and the pump gets the water out fast. This is the only plug that I leave out, any other plug would be to low for self bailing (you have to be familiar with this hull and plug locations). That said the plug out self-bailing is not much faster than the pump. On most trips out, I get zero water in the boat and leaving plug in makes for a bone-dry sump area and deck. Jeff and Jeff I would love to see the pictures both your setups. That sound like what I might end up doing. I have looked at the possibility of using splashguard prefab boards on the transom, but wonder how they would hold up in open water conditions. I know up in the great lakes they get some pretty rough conditions. Back trolling never made any since to me. Couldn’t one just use a very small trolling motor on low and troll forward to get the same speed as backtrolling. There must be more to it. Archie
andygere	posted 09-11-2005 12:37 AM ET (US) Perhaps production of the Whaler Drive boats remained in Rockland for a year or two, using the older 22 foot hull mold. This would make sense since the full width splashwell would not provide any benefit on a full transom boat. Jimh, does your boat have welded or sectional rails? This detail, anecdotally at least, seems to indicate where a hull was built during the transition period.
linust	posted 09-13-2005 07:09 PM ET (US) I have a '89 Revenge 22 WT WD made in Rockland. As noted, the splashwell design is irrelevant w/ the WD, but for the tally here, it has the older, smaller splashwell design.
LHG	posted 09-13-2005 07:54 PM ET (US) I'm sure the current Midwest Marketing Rep, who was production manager in Edgewater in 1989, could explain what was happening here. I do know that production of the Outrages switched to Edgewater first, my 1989 Outrage 25 being made there in May 1989. It could be that the Revenge series, terminated with the 1990 models, were kept in Rockland to save on the relocation costs of a discontinued model. Like Jim says, the older mold might have been used to wrap up this line, while the new mold went to FL, where the commercial hulls were also now being made. I also noticed a 1989 Revenge 25 had some different hull details than my Outrage, so perhaps those were also made up there. I am guessing the Revenges were all made in Rockland until the series ended, while Outrage production was moved to FL, where this model was most popular?
Tom W Clark	posted 09-13-2005 10:18 PM ET (US) We're getting a bit off topic but this is interesting to me. I never before knew that a 22 Whaler Drive molded after 1989 had the older splashwell design. I had assumed that all 22s after the 1989 mid year introduction of the full width splashwell were molded that way. I think the theory of the Whaler Drive models not needing the improved splashwell makes perfect sense. As to what Revenge models were made where I can add one bit of info about my 1988 25 Revenge Walk Through: the hull was molded in Norwell, MA but was shipped to Edgewater, FL to be finished. Chuck Bennett told me that many of the larger Whalers made at this time were molded up north and then sent south to be finished as part of the training of the new Edgewater employees. Andy, The welded bow rail distinction is not as clear as we might think. At least in the case of the welded one piece bow rails on the Revenge Walk Throughs, they were made as early as 1987 by a company in Connecticut. Mine was and still has the manufacturer's sticker on it. Pete Butterfield's 1987 Revenge 22 Walk Through has the same bow rail (and sticker).
sweetrevenge	posted 09-28-2005 10:33 PM ET (US) Tom.. Are you sure your hull was made in Norwell?? If so where in Norwell? I don't recall a Whaler plant there.. I do know of the old plant in Rockland just west of Route 3 at the Hingham - Rockland exit. There is now a Home Depot where the old Boston Whaler plant once stood..
macfam	posted 09-28-2005 11:25 PM ET (US) Regarding Norwell: Check this out: http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000176.html
njwhalerman	posted 10-04-2005 05:00 PM ET (US) For your info, I have the original plans for constructing and installing the splash board right fro C. Bennett at Whaler. I had a 88 22 Revenge before movin up to a 27 Whalerand experienced the same problem. Chuck forwarded the directions. JIMH, maybe I can forwar a copy to you and we can post it
Tom W Clark	posted 10-04-2005 05:17 PM ET (US) Scott, I had missed your question until now. Yes, I mean Norwell, MA. Whaler had the plant in Rockland (which I am sure you are thinking of) and then built a second plant in Norwell in the early 1980s where they molded all their larger Whaler, i.e. 18s and up.
Sheila	posted 10-04-2005 07:19 PM ET (US) I just went back and looked at Chuck Bennett's reply to my inquiry about my 1985 Revenge's history. He states she was built in Norwell. I completely missed that last year when I asked the question of him.
acassidy	posted 10-04-2005 10:33 PM ET (US) njwhalerman, I would really like to see pictures of the Splash Board that you are talking about. Does anyone have pictures of splash board for 22' Whaler 25" out transom. Thanks much