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Position of Outboard While Trailering On Highway
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ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: The Whaler GAM or General Area
Position of Outboard While Trailering On Highway
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| Author | Topic: Position of Outboard While Trailering On Highway |
| Speedo66 |
posted 08-14-2006 09:01 AM ET (US)  
My son and I were discussing what position the motor should be in while [trailering on the highway]. Assuming it is tilted all the way up, without an additional engine/trailer support, should it be straight up, or turned all the way over to one side or another? If on its side, should the steering tube be in or out? Does its position really make any difference, and if so, why? Thanks Steve |
| elaelap |
posted 08-14-2006 10:16 AM ET (US)
Yo Steve, When I had dinks with sailboats I always towed with the motors down to aid in the dinghy's ability to keep a somewhat straight track behind the boat. I really don't know which way is best at higher motorboat speeds...I'm talking about five or six knots at best with a small (22-32 ft) sailboat. Tuco |
| PeteB88 |
posted 08-14-2006 11:04 AM ET (US)
We're talking about towing on the open road right? If yes I was wondering about that yesterday while I was towing the 13 - specifically should I be using one of those lower unit bars to the trailer or bottom of transom braces even w/ my Yamaha 40? Previous owner advised to put pin in top holes and roll but we do a lot of overroad towing. |
| PeteB88 |
posted 08-14-2006 11:05 AM ET (US)
My goal is to take the 13 with me more than we take the dog. |
| Speedo66 |
posted 08-14-2006 11:14 AM ET (US)
I was referring to on the road towing on a trailer, without the "transom saver" bar. Steve |
| Sal DiMercurio |
posted 08-14-2006 11:33 AM ET (US)
If possible to leave the engine straight down, is best. When the engine is tilted up, the torque from bouncing forward and aft can and will crack some transoms. Just be sure the lower unit isn't going to hit a 1-ft bump and ruin it. You should bungie cord the engine to one side either if you don't have a no feed back steering system (won't turn by itself). If your traveling on back roads un-paved it's best to turn the wheel so the steering arm isn't exposed to collect dust and grit, but on highways it doesn't make much difference. The lower unit support bar is best but not all trailers allow for that setup. Sal |
| alfa |
posted 08-14-2006 11:33 AM ET (US)
When towing on road, I always tilt the engine full up, there is a litte arm on the Merc which acts as tilt lock. Never had problem. Alain |
| PeteB88 |
posted 08-14-2006 11:44 AM ET (US)
Sal, so I should put pin in lower holes for towing keeping motor as vertical as possible as long as good ground clearance? Makes sense, Alfa's method seems to me would create major lever action with weird forces on the transom. Correct? I can visualize how straight down would reduce lever effect stresses if that is correct term on the transom. What's the consensus? 40 HP too small for bracket? |
| Whaler_bob |
posted 08-14-2006 12:18 PM ET (US)
quote: I use a "transom saver" on my 25hp, it really takes a good deal of stress off the transom and keeps the skeg way above the road. I have the Swivl-Eze Pro bolt on model # SP-4000-ADJ-B: |
| PeteB88 |
posted 08-14-2006 12:24 PM ET (US)
bob - Does it fit to the transom or trailer cross member? I think Iam going to get one for the 13. I have Karavan trailer, straight cross member. |
| pglein |
posted 08-14-2006 12:31 PM ET (US)
I've always towed with my engine up. I know it's better to leave it down, but mine doesn't have enough clearance to do so. When entering and leaving parking lots, the skeg hits the ground, which makes it too dangerous in my opinion. I don't bother with any sort of suplemental support on my Yamaha, but I did use straps to hold it up when I had my Suzuki. The Yamaha has a more substantial tilt lock, and I trust it more. I turn the engine so that the steering rod is not exposed. It doesn't normally make much of a difference, but you gotta go one way or the other, so you may as well go that way. My steering is well lubricated and turns smoothly enough that if I leave it centered, it will just drop to one side or the other on it's own. I'd like to have some additional support for the engine, but thus far, I haven't had any problems and there are no stress cracks evident on the transom, so I don't worry about it. |
| bamatenn |
posted 08-14-2006 12:34 PM ET (US)
I just checked the manaul on my DF 70 Suzuki and it says keep the motor in the normal operating position when towing unless ground clearance is a concern. If it is use a transom saver bar. There is a caution note warning against using the tilt lock for towing purposes. Ken |
| elaelap |
posted 08-14-2006 12:49 PM ET (US)
Whoops, duh, you mean when towing your boat with a truck, not towing a dinghy or towing your Whaler behind another boat, I slowly figured out. After going back and forth and reading many of the relevant threads at this website, I began using an aluminum 'transom saver' for my main motor about three years ago. It works okay, I guess. I tow with my kicker locked up. Tony |
| rkatz |
posted 08-14-2006 01:00 PM ET (US)
Funny, I just posted this very question in another portion of this site. I have NEVER gotten a straight answer to this one. If you are supposed to trailer with the engine tilted up, then why have the support arm? I have a 23' Outrage with Twin 130 Yamahas. For short trips, I tend to tow with the engines down. I have always towed for longer trips with the engines tilted up and the support arm holding them, but it does seem that this would add a whole lot of stress to the transom. Transom savers don't do much for me as most are made for smaller engine / boat configurations. If anyone has an answer to this question, I would greatly appreciate it. |
| Estero |
posted 08-14-2006 01:39 PM ET (US)
In reviewing past threads on this topic, my take is that the consensus is that the stress on the transom presented by trailering with the motor tilted up are probably not as great as those experienced during normal operation of the motor in the water. The concern seems to be the stress on the tilt ram as opposed to the transom. The safety lever for keeping the motor tilted all the way up is probably not up to the task of highway travel. I trailer with my engine tilted up and use one of those M-Y wedges to provide support the tilt ram, with the motor steered straight ahead. With my trailer setup, there is no way I could leave the motor down without scraping an every driveway approach I drove into. My unscientific observation is that most outboard boats I see on the highway are trailering with the motor up to some degree. Tim |
| fly_fool |
posted 08-14-2006 04:42 PM ET (US)
When confronted with conflicting advice on a problem like this, I compromise! I tilt my Yamaha '90 up just enough to have it rest with the lower pistons fully extended, on the theory that they will help carry the load. I haven't scraped my lower unit this way, unless I forget. |
| Sal DiMercurio |
posted 08-14-2006 06:06 PM ET (US)
When your engine weighs in at over 500 lbs, your gonna have some serious torque while tilted in the up position & riding on that bracket that supports it in the up position. The reason for that bracket is so you can tilt your engine up & out of the water when leaving the boat in the water. I forgot where I read it, but it came from a very reliable publication. No need to move the pin at the bottom of the bracket, just let it ride in the most vertical position possible without dragging the lower unit. Sal |
| JayR |
posted 08-14-2006 06:27 PM ET (US)
My E-TEC came with an integrated trailering bracket. I just raise the motor far enough to drop it into position and then lower the motor until it is resting upon the bracket. Seems very secure. |
| David Livingstone |
posted 08-14-2006 07:21 PM ET (US)
I use a transom saver that I ordered from Cabela's. Here is a poor picture on the boat http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/montauk1998/detail?.dir=4bb6&.dnm=ea0c. jpg&.src=ph . $49 and ten minutes to install. I use a bungee in on the kicker. The pounding the motors get on the water is no where near what one of our infamous potholes can do to the boat and motors. A transom saver is very cheap insurance for me, plus my owner manual calls for one if the motor can't trailered in the fully down position. David |
| bsmotril |
posted 08-14-2006 07:58 PM ET (US)
RKatz, Some motor makers (like Merc) specifically call out in their manual that the tilt support brackets are not for trailering, and a transom support should be used if the boat must be trailered with the motor up. A look at the thickness of the metal support will tell you why that is a good idea. I don't know what kind of support Yamaha uses, but the manual for their motors should tell you if it is ok to use if for trailering (or not). BillS |
| whalerwanter |
posted 08-15-2006 12:18 AM ET (US)
Mine is up. I want all the ground clearance I can get. I tow a long way. The chances of debri in the road, somewhere along the line, are high. In traffic, I may not see it, until it's too late. Swerving quickly is very dangerous. I don't want to concern myself with lower unit's catching something. With the motor up, one less thing to worry about. |
| Royboy |
posted 08-15-2006 05:49 AM ET (US)
From the Mercury Marine website FAQ: "What precautions should I take when trailering my outboard powered boat with the engine attached?
IMPORTANT: Do not rely on the power trim/tilt system or tilt support lever to maintain proper ground clearance for trailering. The outboard tilt support lever is not intended to support the outboard for trailering." I find this a bit confusing. What is the function of the tilt support lever if not for trailering? How many boats equipped with a 135 Optimax can be trailered with the engine down? Mine certainly can't; not even close. Now I'm wondering what I've done to my transom with all of my trailering, not to mention the previous owners. Roy |
| swist |
posted 08-15-2006 07:10 AM ET (US)
The service dept at my Whaler dealer (a high volume dealer) says they know Merc advises not to tow with the motor up, but they've never seen a single failure of any kind from doing so (even without a "transom saver"), whereas they have seen plenty of lower unit encounters with the ground when trailering in the down position. |
| swist |
posted 08-15-2006 07:14 AM ET (US)
Another thought.. assuming the transom stress we are trying to avoid is caused by the moment/lever action of the weight of the powerhead, then the safest position is when the center of that weight is directly over the transom. On my Montauk 170, that position is better approximated with the engine up than down. |
| erik selis |
posted 08-15-2006 07:47 AM ET (US)
All I can say is that I have had 2 tilt/trim system failures in the first year I had my boat. One failure was a broken o-ring and the other was a more dramatic failure where the hydraulic piston had to be replaced. At that time I had no type of engine support while driving with the engine tilted half way up. My mercury dealer advised me to use a transom saver. Not to save the transom but to safeguard my tilt/trim system. I haven't had any problems ever since I started using one and would recommend it to all Mercury owners that trailer the boat with the engine tilted up. Erik ps: 170 Montauk with 90-hp Merc, 2-stroke ELPTO. |
| jimh |
posted 08-15-2006 08:31 AM ET (US)
If you have an OMC/BRP motor, you just position it to engage the built-in trailering bracket. It holds the motor at about a 30° angle from vertical. |
| RocketMan |
posted 08-15-2006 08:42 AM ET (US)
My two cents. Ideally from a transom perspective, you would want the engine tilted up such that its c.g. is directly above and in the vertical plane of the transom. This would result in a pure shear load at the engine mount interface. The usual 1/2-inch or so mount bolts can absorb many times the weight of the engine. More importantly, this would tend to minimize loading the transom with a moment. If the c.g. of the engine is applied at a distance from the transom plane, the lever arm will amplify the weight of the engine load to the transom and increase the likelihood of a concern. The main concern would be high cycle fatigue from road-induced vibrations that oscillate the engine c.g. up and down during towing. Typical freeway expansion joints are an example of a sinusoidal loading source that applied over time could result in transom crack initiation at the transom-to-engine mount interface. In reality there is always a trade to consider. In some cases the engine configuration might require that it be in a particular position other than the one above. In these cases the moment loading can be mitigated with an engine support bracket to the trailer or otherwise. Especially for 'larger' engines. Also, I like the idea of always having the engine tilted up to avoid dragging the skag, which experience tells me is usually more embarrassing than anything else. |
| Whaler_bob |
posted 08-15-2006 12:09 PM ET (US)
quote: It's got a "U" shaped mount that bolts to the trailer crossmember- then a quick release pin goes through it and through holes in the end of the transom saver bar. When you get the the ramp, you unhook the lower unit end bungee- then lower the "Y" end to the ground- then you pull the quick release pin and disengage the trailer mounted end and stow the rig in your car. The hole procedure tales about 20 seconds. I wouldn't trailer my 13 without the transom saver now! |
| rkatz |
posted 08-15-2006 01:10 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the head's up. I will check with Yamaha website to see what they have to say about it. If I find anything, I will certainly post for all here. |
| rkatz |
posted 08-15-2006 01:25 PM ET (US)
Well, I guess I should have checked Yamaha's website to start with. Basically, they say to tow it in the down position, and that if that can't be done, then the engines should be trimmed up only as far as necessary to obtain clearance and a transom saver should be used. It also says that the support arm should not be used for trailering. Interestingly enough, I have always towed with engines tilted and resting on the support arm. So far, no problems. Of course, from now on, will do as Yamaha says. |
| David Livingstone |
posted 08-15-2006 02:09 PM ET (US)
Here is the transom saver that I use http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link. jsp?id=0001894011012a&type=product&cmCat=search& returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=transom+saver&N=4887& Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=transom+saver&noImage=0 . I can't imagine any boat that it wouldn't fit. It is a heavy duty set up. David |
| rynochop |
posted 08-15-2006 03:36 PM ET (US)
Thanks for that link David..looks like it would fit my EZLoader fine. |
| Jkcam |
posted 08-21-2006 07:38 PM ET (US)
I ordered the www.m-ywedge.com on 8/16 and it arrived today 8/21. Seems to work fine on my 150 Montauk/ 60 BigFoot. I will report after the next trailer pull. |
| home Aside |
posted 08-22-2006 07:50 AM ET (US)
According to Dave at Lockeman's Hardware & Boats, a very long time Evinrude-Johnson Dealer (whose word is basically Gospel to me) the engine should be trailered up, in a turned position to protect the steering tube from elements, the brace should be down, and then the tilt-trim trimmed all the way down until the motor locks in place (that last surge) and the rods are retracted all the way in to the unit to protect them from the elements. I used this method for 14 years with my 1982 Montauk 17, never used a transom saver and never had a problem. I have also been using this method with my new to me 1985 Revenge 22 WT with Yamaha 225, no problems as of yet, although I don't think the brace on the Yamaha is as strong as the Evinrudes. I plan on making a piece of 4 X 4, like the one Backlash uses on his Yamaha. Pat |
| jimh |
posted 08-22-2006 08:10 AM ET (US)
The newer style trim and tilt system used on OMC engines does not permit the hydraulic system to be retracted when the engine is mechanically braced. |
| aubv |
posted 08-22-2006 08:23 AM ET (US)
A piece of soft wood dowel about 2 inches in diameter, available at Home Depot, etc. works very well. Cut the dowel so it is a couple of inches wider that the motor bracket. Simply insert the dowel between the motor bracket and the motor and lower the engine. The engine will end up resting on two points, at a slight upward angle and the skeg should be well clear of ground obstructions. fwiw |
| Speedo66 |
posted 08-22-2006 09:55 AM ET (US)
aubv-I assume you're talking about placing the dowel in a horizontal position rather than vertical? Steve |
| aubv |
posted 08-22-2006 11:25 AM ET (US)
Speedo66/Steve, Yes, the dowel is horizontal. I towed our 130 Sport 285 miles yesterday and I'd offer to take a picture of this arrangement but I don't have my camera with me. |
| Intodux |
posted 08-24-2006 10:50 AM ET (US)
Speedo66 I've done a little looking around and found a devise for protecting the tilt rams while towing, (and I ordered one). Go to M-yWedge.com. It's a hard rubber clip that fits over the ram shaft to support the weight of the motor. I'll let you know how it works when I receive mine. DUX |
| JayR |
posted 08-24-2006 03:01 PM ET (US)
quote: And it works very well... |
| Jkcam |
posted 08-25-2006 04:05 AM ET (US)
I've made a couple of trailer pulls, approx. 25 miles each, using the www.m-ywedge.com device. At about $35 delivered it seems to be a 100% solution. It is easy on and easy off and even with it in place for the next pull, I can get the 150 Montauk into the Florida garage. It is in a decent position for a engine running flush after use, and wouldn't be noticed by any potential theives should they be eyeballing your boat for goodies while traveling. Looks good to me. |
| Chesapeake |
posted 08-25-2006 10:23 AM ET (US)
THe Cabela's Transom Saver pictured above is an easy and very durable, customizable solution. With that being available so inexpensively and the degree of Whaler pampering displayed here, I am surprised by both the length of this post and that everyone on this site doesn't already tow with one. Talk about cheap and simple insurance... |
| Speedo66 |
posted 08-25-2006 10:41 AM ET (US)
The funny part is my initial question regarded if there was a proper position for the motor while tilted up for towing. It was should the head be turned one way or the other, or have the head up while towing. Not about a transom saver at all. Steve |
| home Aside |
posted 08-25-2006 11:13 AM ET (US)
Speed, As I mentioned in my intial post to your thread, the was I was told to trailer by a reputable dealer, was with the motor turned with steering tube in to protect the steering tube from being exposed to the road elements, dust, salt, grime, etc Pat |
| Buckda |
posted 08-25-2006 11:19 AM ET (US)
Steve - My 150 used to always turn to one side while towing. No matter what position it STARTED the trip in, it always found it's favorit spot to one side by the end of the trip. When I added a transom saver, that helped lock it in the "straight forward" facing position, although I still also bungeed the steering wheel to the hand rail on the console. I had similar experiences with the 70 HP on the 15. I also bungeed the steering wheel on that rig to keep the engine straight. My twin rig does not need this, as the engines stay in whichever position I leave them in - but I still bungee the wheel from time to time - old habits die hard. Do I think that one side or another versus straight ahead is better or worse for the engine/transom? No..I guess not. I just like the engine to be straight(!). None of my rigs has had enough clearance to tow with the engine "down" - but LHG's seem to tow with the engine facing straight with the engine down - I think the side to side "problem" is only a problem on engines that are tilted when trailered. If you regularly (annually) lubricate your steering system (Hydraulic or otherwise), the position with the ram arm in or out shouldn't matter, but I guess you could argue that dust and contaminants could enter the system with the engine over on one side exposing the ram. |
| crashq |
posted 09-02-2006 05:52 PM ET (US)
As everyone has said, trailer per the manufacturer's intructions. Protecting the steering tube sounds like a good idea, although I haven ever done this before.I trailer like Home Aside does; with the motor up and the mechanical bnracket in place and the hydraulics retracted. NO problems over the years. Regarding the effect of the motor being up, in many cases I think the effects are exaggerated. Yes, the lower unit is a long ways from the transom attach point, but you have to remember that any force is generated by the lower unit pivoting around the transom. For a general highway bounce this force will be counteracted (at least to a large degree) by the downward force generated by the heavier powerhead which is now forward of (but close to) the transom. There may be some imbalance in the weight in front of and behind the transom, but it sthe net pivoting force is smaller than many people expect. The net force in most situations will likely be a downward force on the transom. In some unique situations where you get the boat porpoising, you may get larger fwd/bckwd (pivoting) forces on the transom, but that wouldn't be the norm. To prevent this, I go a little tongue heavy (instead of near neutral) on my trailer's balance. Either way, a transom saver will help by transferring some of the load to the trailer. |
| Bulldog |
posted 09-03-2006 08:15 AM ET (US)
Steve, I tow with both twin engines tilted up, powered down on the tilt brace, with the engines tilted towards the port side. In this position the hydraulic cylinder is retracted and the engines weight keeps them from moving around, when I towed with them centered they would usually move a little and I reasoned that they also were putting some stress on the steering system. My Yamaha manual ststes that it is preferred to tow lowered but also is acceptable to tow with the brace holding motor..........................Jack after |
| bill705 |
posted 09-08-2006 03:31 PM ET (US)
I tilted it it up all the way and unlocked the hydraulic unit then I let it lower until I found the balance point. I adjusted the spring loaded transom saver to that height and that's how I trailer it with no problems. It wasn't a problem with the 69 mercury 80hp because it was a simple matter to unlock the trim unit with the thumb knob and then the shocks held it somewhat but nowhere near as solid as the present day tilt and trim. Bill |
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